It would be hard to believe, nevertheless in the world of wine that little
element which is put on the top of a bottle - and having the function of sealing
it - has a fundamental and strategical importance, last but not the least,
cultural and traditional as well. There are so many arguments going on around
that simple cork cylinder - or of any other material - most of the times
giving less importance to what should be considered no matter the type of
seal which is put in the bottle. Nevertheless, even though we all do not
fully realize this, that seal often conditions our acceptance towards that wine
which the seal should protect from the external dangers: in case the cork meets
the expectations of consumer, it is more likely the wine contained in the bottle
will be considered of higher quality as well. How can it be a little cylinder
made of cork or of any other material - the closure - is capable of influencing
the prejudice and the acceptability of wine in such an important way?
According to the opinion of many consumers, it seems the cork plays an important
role in the acceptability of a wine, according to producers, its role would be
less important. By trying to be objective, without being influenced by cultural
and prejudicial factors, we believe producers are right. We do not think it is
enough closing a bottle with a high quality cork closure to make a wine better.
In other words, a cork does not make a wine. Cork undoubtedly has fundamental
importance in those wines destined for long aging periods in bottle, in which
the essential exchange of air from the inside of the bottle to the outside is
ensured by the characteristics of natural cork. The same is not so important in
those wines destined to an immediate consumption, as the aging in bottle, not
only is not recommended, it also worsen the organoleptic qualities of the wine.
Moreover, whenever it is possible, it is always better to see a bottle with a
good synthetic cork instead of a bad natural cork.
According to the point of view of producers, it is absolutely essential a wine
reaches the glass of consumers in the same condition it left the winery, with
all of its organoleptic qualities being unaltered and unspoiled. In this sense,
it certainly is not the cork the only factor allowing the achievement of this
goal: a wrong service temperature, wrong glass, bad keeping of wine, are all
elements equally important playing a fundamental role in the appreciation of a
wine. This includes the cork as well, of course. In fact, it is enough the cork
is faulty, both because it has been damaged by the effects of tricloroanisole -
also known as TCA or corky smell - as well as because of an insufficient
tightness, the wine, even in the most appropriate serving conditions and
keeping, does not express its best qualities. If it is true consumers have
accepted with no problems the introduction of the most innovative technologies
in the production of wine - while recognizing their fundamental role in the
production of quality wines - the technological progresses made by the closure
industry seem to have a lesser acceptability.
If we consider the now very common statistical figures which everyone knows,
4-5% of wine bottles are damaged by the effects of the trichloroanisole
spoilage in natural cork closures, with the consequence of the well known and
disgusting corky smell. Moreover, to these figures must be added about a
10% of wines that, because of an insufficient tightness of natural cork
closures, get prematurely oxidized therefore damaging the wine. If we consider
these figures, the loss because of accidental factors caused by corks is not
irrelevant. This does mean in a production of 100,000 bottles, there is a loss
of more than 10,000 bottles of wine. This loss, undoubtedly, also affects the
price of wine: it is evident this loss represents an increasing in costs for
producers. The solutions proposed to these kind of problems include the well
known synthetic corks - which are not completely accepted by consumers yet - as
well as the most recent introduction of screwcaps, used since a long time in
ordinary and bulk wines, soda pops and mineral waters.
If it is true synthetic corks suffer from a strong resistance by consumers, for
most of them screwcaps are even considered unacceptable. The results of studies
about this subject, ensure these kind of closures allow a better keeping of the
freshness and the integrity of aromas and flavors of wines in which are being
used: a factor that should grant them a better acceptability and preference.
However it is undeniable the better tightness of these corks accelerates
reductive processes, and in just 18 months the quality of wines is seriously
compromised. This latter consideration should suggest not using synthetic corks
or screwcaps in wines destined to long aging in bottle. This is what producers
know as well and - in fact - they make use of synthetic corks and screwcaps in
wines destined to an immediate consumption, such as whites, roses and young
reds. It is not an economic matter only: it is undeniable it is the primary
interest of producers to ensure their products the best consumption conditions
possible. This should be the interest of consumers as well.
Nevertheless the closure is still a complex and delicate subject, which
irritates consumers when they see a bottle sealed with a synthetic cork. It is
such a delicate subject which could make one thinks the wine contained in the
bottle is less important and it seems to be the cork what it is being poured in
glasses. Of course, it is also something associated to tradition and culture.
Anyway, does it really make sense - in the sake of tradition - allowing the
spoilage of a wine when it can be avoided? It is also true a screwcap deprives
the consumers of the enjoyable ceremony of the opening of a bottle made of
corkscrews and cares: a simple and quick movement and the wine is ready to be
poured in a glass. Anyway, this is a cultural barrier very hard to change.
Despite the efforts of producers in having these closures accepted, many
consumers still have the prejudice synthetic corks and screwcaps are used in low
quality wines. A cultural change hard to achieve, saved the case consumers will
begin to pay more attention to what it is being poured in their glasses instead
of paying attention to what they see in a bottle. After all, the attention paid
to the cork is limited to the time in which the bottle is being uncorked: the
pleasure of the appreciation of a wine has a truly longer time, no matter the
closure is made from natural cork or any other synthetic material.
|