It happens more and more to taste wines belonging to the so called
natural family, a category not well defined yet and the producers
themselves have sometimes different opinions about this subject. Many of these
wines - and I am saying this with satisfaction and admiration - are of
remarkable quality, well made and, last but not the least, without faults. On
the other hand, some of them, as far as I can tell, are the majority, have
pretty embarrassing faults, so gross that, not more than ten years ago,
they would have been rejected by any wine lover. In these cases, it is very hard
for me to consider a fault as a quality just because that wine is natural
and for this reason it must be considered a product for the élite. In
other words, I don't understand the glorification of natural wines by making
this productive characteristic the only factor to be considered for the quality
of a product: in case it is natural, it is better, no matter what.
I am suspecting the so called natural wines represent - as a matter of
fact - just another fashion in wine, a trend every expression and every product
needs in order to stay alive and to catch attention. Wine is no exception: in
the last twenty years we have seen so many fashions, born, grown up, died and,
then, buried, forgotten, even denied. I like to point this out once again: it is
not a matter of being contrary to natural wines; a genuine wine is
however a goal to be favored and supported. I don't however subscribe to a
current of thought, not so different from religious crusades supporting an
absolute truth and that, most of the times, have the deplorable goal of
hiding the real truth, by telling pathetic lies. I don't like arrogant
currents of thought, rigid and deaf, always convinced to be on the right
side, even rejecting those methods from which they come from, while not telling
or denying their use even in case it is evident.
It is too easy and utopian to say a natural wine is the one produced according
to nature - and we should remember wine does not exist in nature - when everyone
knows the only natural journey of grape juice is to become vinegar. The
intervention of man is fundamental in order to affect the natural process
in order to avoid what nature taught bacteria in order to ensure a chance of
survival. This intervention, it is undeniable, is obtained by means of
technology, those processes invented by man and which allowed him to better
understand what a wine is and how it can be produced by interacting with
natural processes. Denying technology and to consider it as the
absolute evil is pure madness: even natural wines are the result of
technology. Technology is not either good or bad, indeed, it is its use to
make it good or bad. It would be like saying a straight razor is bad only
because it is very sharp and can cause serious injuries, when - for the sake of
truth - it is the most efficient tool for shaving and respectful for the skin.
It is the use one makes of something to make it good or bad.
Looking for new marketing opportunities, hopefully creating particular niche
market, clearly is the goal of any business in order to ensure both notoriety
and profits. There is nothing wrong about this, however when it is transformed
into a speculation, as well as even trying to make others believe an evident
fault is a quality, I find this to be unfair, even ridiculous. A fault is a
fault, anyway, either of natural origin or created by the worst industrial
technique, it however is a fault. I cannot accept as a justification a wine has
a fault because it is natural. That fault - as such - is an undeniable
factor detrimental to quality, something that, in any case, shadows the fact it
is a natural wine, or of any other productive origin or technique. Not even
the supposed genuineness makes me see that fault as acceptable: if for
genuine wine is to be considered a wine having faults, instead of having an
adulterated or industrial wine, I truly prefer having a glass of plain water.
My job - lucky me - gives me the privilege of tasting and evaluating wines
daily. Among the many, of course, there are wines their producers proudly
classify as natural, or however produced with wine making and
viticultural techniques that, in many cases, are defined as natural.
Sometimes these wines have rough and embarrassing faults, oxidation affecting
smell and taste, evident contamination of brettanomyces, evident faults caused
by acetic bacteria and recalling vinegar, evident oxidation and faults giving
the wine a not truly attractive appearance. These wines make me remind about
those, that with an evident disgust, are defined as wines of the peasant,
wines anyone would not ever wish to have in a glass. Some natural wines remind
me about those kind of wines: not truly well made, faults making them ordinary
and rough, not pleasing at all, from appearance to taste. I once also tasted a
wine with an evident smell caused by an excess of sulfur dioxide. When I told
the producer about it, the answer was quite bizarre: if you add just a little of
sulfur dioxide, the wine gets oxidized and it can easily be affected by faults.
This is not so different from syncretism applied to religions and philosophies:
you simply take or reject what, in that specific moment, is better for you.
Maybe it is because in wine - this is undeniable - there has been, and continues
to be, a boring homologation of organoleptic qualities, result of research and
wine making progress which allowed everyone to take advantage of technology and
knowledge. I have no problem in admitting sometimes these technological mean are
pretty cumbersome and hide, or eliminate, many typical qualities of grapes and
of territories. I however have problems in accepting a fault as the expression
of a grape or a territory. A fault, in my humble opinion, is simply the
expression of the incapacity and inexperience of the one who made that wine,
natural or industrial, it makes no difference. In case this must be seen as a
quality, even worse, the revealed truth to a small group of wine lovers who -
lucky them - are convinced to be the only ones who understood everything in
wine, elected apostles of the benevolent Bacchus and repository of the absolute
truth, this makes me smile. Let's clear this, once again: a genuine wine,
expression of a territory and of its grapes, respectful for the health and
wellness of consumers, is a noble and highly wished presupposition. It however
does not change the fact a fault is a fault, anyway. Natural or industrial, it
however is a fault.
Antonello Biancalana
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