The enological scenario of central Italy – by of course considering the well-known exceptions – is historically and generally committed to grapes and white wines. Tuscany excluded, the enological history of most regions of central Italy is characterized by white wines. In modern times things have considerably changed and the wine-growing areas of central Italy and traditionally committed to the production of white wines have expanded – so to speak – their enological offer by also including reds. Something that has not generally happened, at least not substantially, for the territories historically committed to red wines, which introduced whites and however strongly retaining the original identity of land of reds. In this regard, it must be said it has often been a market need, with the aim of satisfying the alternation of consumption which, cyclically, favors both white and red.

 This month, in the glasses of our tasting by contrast, we are going to pour the wines of two of the most famous areas committed to the production of whites and, in both cases, with a long wine making history. Orvieto and Verdicchio di Matelica – the two wines we will analyze this month – have a long and well established history and, in the case of Orvieto, even dated back to Etruscan times. In any case, these are very different wines having in common only the color. The wines of Orvieto, in all the styles allowed by the production disciplinary, are made of many varieties – traditionally five – while Verdicchio di Matelica is produced only with the homonymous and famous grape of Marches. Of course these are very different wines, not only for the composition of the grapes, but also for the wine making interpretation and the characteristics of the respective territories. Both wines prove to have a good wine making versatility, in fact they express this quality by means of many enological interpretations, from dry and sparkling wines to sweet ones from dried grapes, including those attacked by noble rot.

 Orvieto wines are undeniably among the oldest ones in the history of wine in Italy. Produced since the times of the Etruscans, the white wines of this evocative area in Umbria are still today among the best known in the world. The wines of Orvieto have gained appreciation in all eras of history and, moreover, they are among the most celebrated ones. Even in relatively modern times, the wines of Orvieto represented – in the common imagination and together with a few others – the emblem of Italian wine par excellence. Built on the huge hill of tuff and clay, Orvieto, in addition to the beauty of the area and its monuments, is identified with its white wine which, as mentioned, was already produced by the Etruscans, who dug the famous caves in the tuff used both for vinification and keeping. The ancient Etruscan caves are in fact still used today by some wineries, thus perpetuating millennia of uninterrupted history in honor of wine.

 In the composition of the “modern” Orvieto wine we find typical grapes of Umbria and central Italy: Trebbiano Toscano – here called Procanico – and Grechetto which, according to the disciplinary, must make at least 60% of the wine. Orvieto is completed by white grapes permitted for cultivation in Umbria region. The grapes which traditionally complete Orvieto are Malvasia Bianca, Canaiolo Bianco and Verdello; today, however, we also find other varieties, including the international ones such as Chardonnay. Orvieto has a decidedly interesting enological versatility, thanks to both the characteristics of the soil and the particular climate of this territory, qualities that favor – among the very few in Italy – the development of noble mold in the grapes without making them rot. The wines of this area are also suited to fermentation and aging in wood, a practice that, it must be said, is rarely used by producers. Finally, the wines of the denomination Orvieto Classico are produced in the historical territory – corresponding to the one around the famous “Rupe di Orvieto” – while the Superiore is reserved for wines from harvests with maximum yields of 80 quintals per hectare and minimum alcohol by volume of 11%.

 Matelica is one of the two territories of the Marches exclusively committed to a single grape and a single wine: Verdicchio. Wine of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin), the territory of Matelica however differs from the one of the much wider denomination of Castelli di Jesi. The differences, of course, are not only about the territory but, above all, the wine itself, as the two areas make decidedly different wines. Verdicchio di Matelica is in fact considered a Verdicchio from the mountain, while the one of Castelli di Jesi is a Verdicchio from the sea. Same grape, two extremely different wines. Verdicchio di Matelica stands out for its pleasing crispness given by acidity and an alcohol content generally lower than the one made in Castelli di Jesi. This undeniably is because of the effect of territory, soil and climate typical in the Umbrian-Marches Apennines.

 Verdicchio di Matelica is recognized as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wine (Denomination of Controlled Origin) and has been, together with Rosso Conero, the first wine of the Marches to achieve this recognition in 1967. In this regard, it should be noted that, since 2009, in the same territory is also produced Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva, recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita wine (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG). At the base of this interesting wine we evidently find Verdicchio grape, one of the most interesting white berried varieties of the Italian wine scene. Thanks to its characteristics, allowing it to make structured wines with a good longevity potential, it is often called “a red dressed in white”, and Verdicchio di Matelica, of course, is no exception to this. This wine – not to be confused with the Riserva style which belongs, in fact, to another denomination – is usually vinified in inert containers, a practice favoring, among the other things, both the expression of the Verdicchio's aromas as well as the characteristic crispness given by acidity.

The color of Orvieto Classico Supereiore

 Let's choose the two wines for the tasting by contrast of this month, a choice that – undoubtedly – is not so difficult as the two wines – Orvieto Classico Superiore and Verdicchio di Matelica – can be easily found in any wine shop. However, we will pay attention to the composition of the wines, the vintage and the container used for aging. As for Orvieto Classico Superiore, this wine is being produced with the union of many grapes and, besides the two main varieties – Procanico, that is Trebbiano Toscano, and Grechetto – we will make sure Malvasia Bianca, Canaiolo Bianco and Verdello are also found in the composition. We will therefore choose an Orvieto Classico in the very meaning of it, that is, produced with the grapes that traditionally and typically are used for its making. The choice of Verdicchio di Matelica is generally simple as, in most of the cases, we find in its composition this grape only, however it is good to notice its production disciplinary provides for a minimum of 85% of Verdicchio. Both wines belong to the latest harvest available and vinified in steel tanks. Orvieto Classico Superiore and Verdicchio di Matelica are served in tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 Let's pour the two wines into their respective glasses and start the tasting of this month by evaluating the appearance of Orvieto Classico Superiore. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the wine at the base. The Umbrian wine shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and a very high transparency: the object placed between the glass and the white surface is perfectly visible. Let's now evaluate the nuance of Orvieto Classico Superiore by observing the wine towards the opening of the glass, at the point where the thickness of the liquid mass becomes thinner. Also in this case the Umbrian wine confirms, in the nuance, the greenish yellow color. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the appearance of Verdicchio di Matelica and tilt the glass over the white surface. The color of the wine from Marches is more intense than the Umbrian one and, in this case, can be observed a bright straw yellow color, with a very high transparency. The nuance of Verdicchio di Matelica, observed towards the opening of the glass, reveals, again, a straw yellow with an evident hint of greenish yellow.

 Orvieto Classico Superiore and Verdicchio di Matelica are characterized by very different olfactory profiles. In the first case, it is the result of many varieties, each of them having their own olfactory qualities, although having in common some characteristics. In the second, however, we generally find Verdicchio only, therefore the identification, so to speak, becomes simpler. In this regard, it should be noted that the exercise of the sensorial evaluation of multi-varietal wines is decidedly important, in particular for the study of the overview of all aromas and how they interact with each other. Orvieto Classico Superiore and Verdicchio di Matelica are characterized by sensations reminiscent of the world of flowers and fruits, especially those with white pulp. In both cases we also find hints of nuts, in particular, in Orvieto Classico Superiore is often perceived the aroma of hazelnut – generally given by Grechetto – while in Verdicchio di Matelica we perceive almond, typical aroma of this variety and which is sometimes also found in the Umbrian wine and, specifically, associated with Procanico grapes.

 Let's resume the tasting by contrast of this month and proceed with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of Orvieto Classico Superiore and Verdicchio di Matelica, starting – just like the previous phase – from the Umbrian wine. By keeping the glass in vertical position and, without swirling it, we do the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine. Orvieto Classico Superiore gives the nose intense and pleasing aromas of apple, plum and hawthorn. Let's now swirl the glass, in order to favor the development of the other aromas, and proceed with the second smell. The olfactory profile of this wine is completed with pear, peach, hazelnut and broom as well as pleasant mineral hints and a touch of rosemary. Let's move on to the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Verdicchio di Matelica and perform the first smell in order to evaluate its opening. From the glass emerge intense and clean aromas of apple, pear and hawthorn, very pleasing. After having swirled the glass and performed the second smell, the olfactory profile of Verdicchio di Matelica is completed with plum, broom, peach, pineapple and almond.

 Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting from Orvieto Classico Superiore. The first aspect we evaluate is the attack – that is, the initial sensations perceived in the mouth – and, to do this, we take a sip of the Umbrian wine. Orvieto Classico Superiore is characterized by a crisp attack of good acidity and structure, in which the effect of alcohol, well perceptible, contributes to the balance of the wine. In the mouth we also perceive the flavors of apple, peach and plum, therefore confirming the correspondence to the nose. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the attack of Verdicchio di Matelica and take a sip of the wine from Marches. In the mouth we perceive a decidedly prominent sensation of crispness in addition to the good structure. The effect of alcohol, less intense than in Orvieto Classico Superiore, is however enough to give the wine a good balance. In the mouth, moreover, we perceive the flavors of apple, pear and almond, also in this case confirming the good correspondence to the nose. Finally, note the pleasing mineral sensation which is perceived in both wines.

 The last phase of the tasting examines the intensity and quality of the sensations that the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular, the taste-olfactory persistence, that is, the amount of time during which the sensorial characteristics of the wines continue to be clearly perceived in the mouth. The finish of the Orvieto Classico Superiore is characterized by a good taste-olfactory persistence in which the flavors of apple, pear, plum and hazelnut are perceived, often with a hint of almond. We also continue to perceive the crispness of the acidity of the wine, kept in balance by the effect of alcohol, as well as a pleasing sensation of minerality. The finish of Verdicchio di Matelica is persistent, leaving the pleasing crispness of acidity in the mouth, more evident than the Orvieto Classico Superiore, in addition to the pleasing flavors of apple, plum, almond and a hint of minerality. Before ending the tasting, let's evaluate again the two wines, on the nose and on the taste: the differences between Orvieto Classico Superiore and Verdicchio di Matelica are even more evident.