After a long time spent in talking and praising the charm and the supposed superiority of the so called “international” grapes, recently there is a new term which is getting more and more popular among wine lovers, modern and enchanting, which is also getting more and more used and abused: autochthonous. Perhaps it is not clear whether this is just another “fashion” which is entering the world of wine, and with that also new commercial opportunities, or it is a term capable of distinguish and further set apart the ones who talk about wine from the ones who try to get into it. According to the English language autochthonous, from Greek autóchthon, means something or someone “from its or his own land”, in our specific case, grapes originating from determined areas or regions.

 It is not clear, or however it is difficult to say, whether this new or renewed interest for autochthonous, meant as a term instead of something that could revaluate the cultural heritage of any place, is merely aiming to the enrichment of wine lovers' vocabulary or the autochthonous grapes are being revaluated just for the romantic illusion connected to the things of the past and to those traditions that are always successful in evoking images of genuineness in most of the people, as well as to what it is “good” and “better”. It should also be remembered the so called “international” grapes are foreign in the places where they are not from, but are indisputably autochthonous in the places where they are from. For example, if we consider Chardonnay grape, probably considered as the most “international” one among white berried grapes, and we also consider the region of Bourgogne, it is hard to support the idea Chardonnay is to be considered in that area as an international grape, for Burgundians Chardonnay is indisputably autochthonous!

 There is something we want to make clear: no one is supporting the idea Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, two examples of international grapes, are not capable of producing great wines, indeed, this is something we certainly do not support or believe at all. If we consider, for example, a Champagne Blanc de blancs, produced with Chardonnay grape only, its elegance is praised, rightly, everywhere. Is that because of Chardonnay grape? This grape certainly has an important role, however what makes these wines elegant is the region of Champagne and its unique climate and environmental conditions, last but not the least, the seriousness of producers. After all, there are so many sparkling wine in the world produced with Chardonnay grape and having scarce or mediocre quality, which is enough to understand the greatness of Champagne is not just Chardonnay. The same concept certainly applies to any other kind of grape and to any other area, with no exceptions.

 Maybe it could be that the renewed interest, or the discover, of autochthonous grapes has its origin from the necessity of knowing something new also supported by the indiscriminate invasion of so many wines “all similar, all the same”, produced with the same grapes and inevitably have the same taste and same aromas. Maybe they exaggerated the use of the so called “international” grapes and they saturated the wine market without giving opportunities for diversities therefore lowering the interest of consumers? Maybe. Or was it because they are trying to wake up the interest for wine, already high but confused by the many bottles available, and are looking for new commercial opportunities by making people believe it is new what existed since ever? It could be. In case it is really like that, there is nothing to be happy for; the hope wines and typical grapes from certain areas are finally getting revaluated, an event which is certainly appreciated for the interest of cultural richness of every consumer, is destined to a sure decline as soon as the commercial opportunity will be replaced by a new one.

 However it is indisputable the word “autochthonous” is getting more and more common among wine lovers and among the ones who are in the wine business. The use of this word is becoming frequent also among consumers which sometimes use it without knowing its exact meaning when referred to wine, maybe because they heard someone saying it and therefore it seems appropriate in order to appear like an “expert”. Sometimes happen in restaurants or in wine shops to hear clients asking “an autochthonous wine” without even knowing its exact meaning, or better, without realizing it would be better to ask “a wine made of autochthonous grapes”. That's right, but autochthonous from what place? Considerations like those make think to a new fashion now common in the world of wine, and as such it shows both advantages and dangers.

 Advantages because they contribute to increase the interest for wine and, in this case, this would be for those wines and those grapes from certain areas; dangers because from the use of a term, even worse, from the improper use, it can easily turn into abuse and it could also happen what happened for the so called “international” grapes, used everywhere and in every wine and maybe, at the end, they have been responsible for conforming the wine market too much. Who knows, maybe one day we will find out we had enough of “wines produced with autochthonous grapes” just because of the abuse of the term and not because of their correct revaluation and, who knows, that day we will also realize wines, or better, autochthonous grapes, have been only a fashion of the moment useful for taking advantage of the occasion offered by a determined circumstance. We can just hope it will not be like that. Like always we are about to take advantage from an opportunity and according to the way it will be used it can be positive or negative, a choice that, maybe, can give a new impulse to the world of wine, and above all, to the cultural richness of every wine lover.

 There is nothing wrong or contrary to “international” grapes, as well as there is nothing wrong or contrary to autochthonous grapes. We will not give up supporting this idea: grape, alone, is not the main factor for the production of a good wine. There are other fundamental factors which contribute to the production of great wines, among them, and first of all, the area of production and its characteristics, usually unique, certainly also grape and, last but not the least, the contribute every producer gives to his wines, just because it is him the first one to decide whether making a mediocre wine or a good one, taking advantage from the conditions of the land. It should be remembered the majority of grapes, that in the course of centuries got adapted to the lands of their origin, taking the best advantage of what the area could offer, when planted in other regions they do not give the same results. This certainly support the fact about “area” and its peculiar characteristics, as well as the grapes which are typical of that area since ever, are to be considered among the main elements for quality in wines. It is not by chance French insist since many centuries, rightly, to support the concept of “cru” and “terroir” instead of grape; this is the sign they realized, before than any other else, what were the real and important factors to make a great wine.

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 Argentina, when considered as a wine producing country, represents a paradox. Despite the fact this country is currently the fifth producer of the world and the per capita consumption is of about 40 liters (10.5 gallons), ranking eighth in the world, these factors make rightly think about wine as an important and primary product of the country, indeed the quality of most of the wines, in general terms, is pretty disappointing. Moreover if we also consider the fact Argentina has huge possibilities in wine making and that is located in a very favorable geographical position, everything seems to be really perplexing.

Argentina

 It should also be considered that Argentinian wines are difficult to find outside the country, no matter the production is pretty high, the domestic consumption is so high that few wine leave the borders and is exported to other countries of the world. Despite things are changing, even though slowly, in general terms Argentina produces pretty coarse wines, high yields in vineyards for productions characterized by disputable quality. Although this is what mainly happen in the wine scene of Argentina, it must be considered as well some producers are trying to change things in order to start that important process towards quality and that would certainly make Argentina and its wines successful all over the world. After all environmental and climate conditions are very favorable to this country, the best wine areas, for example, are located to the same latitudes or the neighboring Chile's best areas, and these conditions are just waiting to be used in the best way possible. It is not by chance it is said that when Argentina will take advantage of its enological potentialities, it is more likely it will become one of the most important wine producing country in the international market.

 The spreading of vine in Argentina is similar, for many aspects, to the one of the other countries of Latin America, where Spaniard settlers introduced European species and started the cultivation in the aim of producing wine. However it is not certain the way vine spread in Argentina, it is more likely it arrived in different historical moments. The first historical evidences are dated back to 1541 at the time it is believed vine was cultivated for the first time in Argentina and was introduced by Spaniards: the first vineyards were planted in the eastern part of the country near the Atlantic coast along the course of Rio de la Plata river. One year later it seems the vine was introduced in the western part in the areas neighboring Andes by an expedition from Peru. Another expedition from Peru in 1550 brought other plants of vine in Argentina and there are evidences of vines introduced from Chile in 1556.

 The first vines species introduced in Argentina were the same spread in Latin America in the course of the past centuries, in particular Mission grape, pretty popular in California and in Chile, known as Pais, a grape which deeply characterized the production of wine in Latin America for more than 300 years. It seems Mission grape is the progenitor of the most common grape in Argentina, Criolla Chica, although some support the idea it is the very same grape, whereas for others it is a mutation of the original Mission. From the very beginning the cultivation of vine focused its activity in the area near the present city of Mendoza, where particular environmental conditions, particularly favored by abundant availability of water because of snow melting from Andes, a condition which is still present today. They were Jesuit missionaries to start the cultivation of vine in these areas just because of the favorable environmental and climate conditions. The first historical evidence about a vineyard in Argentina is dated back to 1557 near Santiago del Estero, four years before the most important wine area of Argentina, Mendoza, was established. Other historical evidences about vineyards in Argentina are dated back to 1569 and 1589 and are concerned the area of San Juan, north from Mendoza.

 The huge quantity of water coming from the tip of Andes because of melting snow certainly represented an advantage for every kind of culture, forced agriculturists to build irrigation channels and dikes in order to properly manage this important resource: soon after the wine production of Mendoza was so high that could completely satisfy the needs of the country. The most important impulse for Argentinian enology was in 1820, after the liberation from Spain's domination, when in the country arrived from Europe many immigrants which led to the construction in 1885 of the railroad that connected the city of Mendoza to Buenos Aires, therefore facilitating the transportation of wine to the eastern part of the country. A further step forward was done with the arrival of more immigrants from 1890 on, in particular from Italy, France and Spain, who brought with them the typical vine species of their homelands, as well as their knowledge in the wine making. This second arrival of immigrants introduced in Argentina particular European varieties such as Malbec, currently the most important grape of the country, Bonarda, Barbera, Sangiovese, Chenin Blanc, Muscat of Alexandria, Torrontés and Tempranillo.

 As a consequence of these premises as well as of the arrival of immigrants from countries where viticulture and wine have always been part of those cultures, everything could make think, from 1900 on, to the development of a flourishing and important wine industry, and this partly happened, however it focused on the production of coarse wine without paying particular attention on quality. The production was mainly oriented to the country's needs with the exception of few cases, few wine was exported from Argentina to other countries. Despite the fact Criolla Grande and Cereza are still the most popular grapes of the country, they are used less and less in favor of other varieties and the most important wineries are paying their attention to international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. Despite this is the new trend of the wine industry of the country, the most important grape in Argentina, Malbec, continues to be the most representative grape of the wine scene of the country.

 The Argentinian quality system does not have strict laws and norms such as the ones, for example, adopted in many European countries. The system does not have specific laws about allowed grapes as well as about the definition of wine areas, indications on cultivation of vines and procedures for wine making. As a matter of fact, there is an official bureau of control, Instituto Nacionale de Vitivinicultura, but its purpose is uniquely to control the production of grape and wine exports. Quality is therefore delegated to producers who set own norms to be adopted for the production of their wines. However it must be observed there have been attempts to set real and proper wine laws, also encouraged by the some wine industries of the country, which unfortunately did not lead to any useful result. The only norm currently regulating wine production in Argentina is about labelling: in case the variety of grape is stated in the label, the wine must be produced with at least 80% of the named grape.

 Wine production in Argentina can be defined in two different ways: the first one is characterized by a production in huge quantities with little or no care for quality, the second one is the production of some wineries which are trying, although with little steps, to turn Argentina into a great wine producing country and paying lots of attention to quality. Despite most of the wine produced in Argentina belongs to the first case, mainly destined to domestic market and usually sold in cartons, the example of the neighboring Chile, which was capable to export its wines in every market of the world while getting a good reputation, seems to be unnoticed by Argentina. After all the environmental and climate conditions are pretty similar and it would be just enough to take advantage of such conditions. It is not by chance Argentina is often defined as the sleeping wine giant waiting for something or someone to wake it up.

 It should be observed that in recent times Argentina is getting the attention of foreign investors, in particular of wineries from the United States of America, Chile and some European countries, with the specific aim of making wine in that country. Even technology and modern equipments for wine production are progressively introduced to the country and the current goal for quality production is mainly focused on the so called international grapes, in particular Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, however the importance of Malbec in the country, a grape which probably represents Argentina more than any other else, continues to play a role of primary importance and is capable of producing interesting and excellent wines.

 Vineyards of Argentina can be considered among the highest of the world, located in many areas at the base of Andes, they even are planted at an altitude of 1.500 meters (4,920 feet). Because of snow melting from the tip of Andes, the availability of water is not a problem, however this excessive quantity of water, just like in Chile, is frequently cause of problems, in particular when quality wines are going to be produced. Abundance of water in vineyards has promoted a very high yield and however a production of huge quantities of wine, unfortunately of disputable quality, and it was necessary to adopt proper strategies for irrigation as well as adopting proper systems in order to control the enormous flows of water in the aim of promoting a lower yield in vineyards while, on the other hand, increasing the quality of wine. A historical event which should be mentioned is that in Argentina, just like in Chile, the fearful phylloxera, responsible for conspicuous damages everywhere in the world, never appeared in this country.

 The most cultivated varieties in Argentina have mostly been introduced by immigrants who moved in the country in the course of time. The two most popular species of the country are Criolla Grande and Cereza. These two grapes, which are believed to directly derive from the first grapes introduced by Spaniard missionaries in the half of 1500's, have a rose colored skin and are mainly used for the production of huge quantities of mediocre white wine, sometimes blended with other grapes, destined to domestic consumption and often sold in cartons. Among white berried grapes cultivated in Argentina there are Chardonnay, a grape mainly used for whites destined to export, Chenin Blanc, Moscatel de Alejandria, name of which is known Muscat of Alexandria, and Torrontés, probably the white berried grape which is capable, better than any other else, to make interesting white wines in this country. Torrontés certainly is the most interesting white berried grapes of the country and Argentinians are rightly proud of it. Despite the fact this grape is also known in other countries, mainly in the Spanish speaking countries, it is right here which reaches the top: its wines are aromatic and pleasing, often comparable to Gewürztraminer. Among red berried grapes of the country there are Barbera, Bonarda and Sangiovese, introduced in the country by Italian immigrants, and Tempranilla, name used in Argentina to refer to Tempranillo grape introduced by Spaniards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, the latter to be considered as the most interesting and promising red berried grape of the country. It is not by chance 60% of total production is made of red wines.

 Wine production in Argentina is mainly focused in the region which historically have always been involved in this activity and that are located in the western part of the country near the Andes. The most important wine areas of the country are Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja and Salta, of which Mendoza represents the most important and renowned one. To these regions are also added other minor areas, including Jujuy and Catamarca, near Salta, as well as Río Negro, the most southern region of the country. Mendoza is the most important wine region of Argentina and about 70% of total production of the country comes from this region. Mendoza includes two important subareas: Luján de Cuyo and Maipú. The most renowned grape of the region, as well as of Argentina, is Malbec, a typical grape from Bordeaux, and in this area is capable of producing excellent wines. The area having high importance after Mendoza is San Juan, however its warmer climate does not favor a good quality of grapes. La Rioja is the region considered as the most ancient one of the country and here are produced the best Argentinian wines from Torrontés grapes, probably the best white berried grapes that can produce the best white wines of the country. Among other areas, Salta plays an important role for the production of white wines from Torrontés grape. South from this region is located Río Negro and thanks to its cooler climate mainly produces white and sparkling wines.

 Fortified wines are certainly among the most underrated and least understood wines produced by enology. Nevertheless their greatness is a fundamental part of the enological history of the past centuries, when these wines were capable of keeping alive a flourishing trading and their importance and prestige was much higher than it is today. Indeed the extraordinary greatness of these wines did not change in the course of time, the techniques used for their production are basically the same, they are still based on the same events capable of giving them particular and complex qualities. It should be noted the category of fortified wine includes a pretty vast number of wines having qualities and typicalities pretty different one from each other and it should be remembered fortification is just a wine making technique with the main purpose of stabilizing a wines.

 Before discussing the organoleptic qualities of these wines, it is necessary to understand the process of fortification and its meaning. Fortification is a wine making technique which consists in adding a specific amount of alcohol to a wine during a determined stage of the productive process. The most evident effect of this technique is the increase of alcohol by volume in the final product, a value that can also be as high as 20%, however fortification is mainly used for stabilizing a wine in order to prevent any possible degradation. Sometimes alcohol is added while the wine is fermenting, in order to stop the activity of yeasts, therefore stopping the process of transformation of sugar into alcohol while leaving some sweetness to the wine. Alcohol can also be added to the end of the production, such as in Jerez Fino (Sherry) or Marsala Vergine, therefore obtaining an extra dry product where alcohol, besides increasing its percentage by volume, will also contribute to balance.

	The color of a 20 years old Port Tawny

 Fortified wines include a pretty vast number of products, even very different one from each other, from sweet wines to dry ones, as well as special wines which undergo to particular and special processes that give them extraordinary characteristics, such as Jerez (Sherry), Marsala or Madeira. Among fortified wines these probably are the most underrated and least understood ones, nevertheless their complexity, elegance and magnificence is nothing less than any other wine style, their unique qualities constitutes, as a matter of fact, one of the most complex and amazing exercises for sensorial tasting, in particular for the evaluation of aromas. It should also be remembered the prestige of these noble wines was largely compromised by disputable commercial strategies, in particular during the last century, releasing on the market “disputable” interpretations as well as abusing of the fame of their names which probably ensured an easy commercial success. The result is still evident today, no matter the efforts of producers in order to safeguard their products and the glorious names and supported by very strict quality procedures, their fame faced a dramatic decline and they are still considered by many as minor wines. Nevertheless the extraordinary complexity and richness of a Marsala, of a Jerez, of a Madeira or a Port, are pleasures that still few are capable to enjoy and to understand, first of all, there are many who are still convinced about the scarce quality that characterized the majority of these products since few years ago and therefore they are not even considered.

 The fortification process is mainly done by adding some alcohol, however for certain wines, brandy is used as well and, besides increasing the value of alcohol by volume, it also adds its organoleptic qualities to the wine. As previously mentioned, the fortification process mainly has a role of stabilization in wine, as bacteria, as well as yeasts, cannot survive to higher quantities of alcohol and therefore their action is blocked as well as neutralized. For this reason, fortification is generally used during the fermentation process in the purpose of stopping the action of yeasts and therefore stopping the process of fermentation. Adding alcohol during the fermentation process also means to keep a high quantity of sugar in the wine and, as a consequence, the final product will be characterized by an evident sweetness. The quality and the origin of alcohol used for fortification plays a fundamental role because, as well as increasing the alcohol by volume of the final product, it will also give the wine its organoleptic qualities and, in case of low quality alcohol, it could also compromise the quality of the final product, in particular the quality of aromas.

 The practice of fortification does not alter the color of a wine because alcohol is crystalline and colorless. The only exception is represented by the use of brandy in wines having a pale color, a pretty rare practice, because fortification by using brandy is generally done on dark colored wines or wines produced with red berried grapes. Giving general indications about the color of fortified wines is therefore difficult and not useful: their color exclusively depend on the one of the base wine, on the varieties of grapes used for its production as well as on processes and enological techniques done during the production, such as oxidation, frequent in many types of fortified wines. The color of fortified wines is theoretically representable by every color which is typical in any wine, from the pale straw yellow of Jerez Fino, up to dark and impenetrable purplish red of young vintage Ports.

 Thanks to the presence of alcohol and to its preservative effects, fortified wines are particularly suited for long aging in bottle. Despite alcohol has a good preservative action for wine's organoleptic qualities, color tend to change with time and it usually changes like in other wines. In fortified wines produced with white berried grapes, the color tends to darken with time, from straw or golden yellow color to amber yellow with more or less intense hues. In wines produced with red berried grapes, such as Port, the color which is in youth pretty dark and impenetrable, tends to get lighter and to assume garnet red colors and, after a long aging, orange or brick red with evident sediments, just like in red wines. In some fortified wines, produced with particular techniques, it is possible to see pretty dark and deep colors which could appear as impenetrable mahogany, such as in the case of Jerez Pedro Ximénez.

 The nature of fortified wines' aromas mainly depend on the type of base wine and on the enological processes done during its production. However it should be observed there is a common characteristic in every wine belonging to this category and that could also represent a fault. The practice of fortification, when it is done by using a low quality alcohol, could also compromise the overall aroma of the wine, in particular when its aroma becomes intrusive and prevails over the rest. This condition may also happen in case a base wine has light and delicate aromas that would be covered by the one of alcohol. In order to understand this concept it is necessary to recognize the aroma of plain alcohol; something that can easily be learnt by means of a simple experiment.

 Buy a little bottle of plain ethyl alcohol at 95% by volume, generally used for pastry and for home made liquors. Smell the alcohol, with caution and keeping the bottle at a distance: pungency and “ethereal” sensation, typical of alcohol, should be clearly perceivable. The aroma of alcohol is pretty strong and intense, therefore it is advisable to keep the bottle away from nose as the impact could violently attack the olfactory apparatus, with an effect that can also be painful and shocking and not all individuals could stand to such a strong stimulus. Also take a bottle of fortified wine, pour a little quantity in an ISO tasting glass and try to detect the aroma of alcohol in wine. In case the aroma of alcohol is pretty evident and its pungent impact prevails over the other ones, in an evident and clear way, this should be considered as a fault. This fault could be because of the usage of a low quality alcohol as well as because of a base wine lacking in aromas. In a quality fortified wine the aroma of alcohol should never be clearly perceivable, despite the fact it contributes to the overall aromas of the wine, alcohol is an agent which promotes the development of aromas, its pungent and “ethereal” aroma must never be perceived in an evident way.

The color of a Marsala Superiore Ambra

 By considering the number of wines produced with the fortification technique, aromas that can be found are virtually endless. The practice of fortification is also used in some ”unsuspicious” wines and no one would think its alcohol by volume is because of this technique. Among the most renowned fortified wines there are Jerez (Sherry), Marsala, Madeira, Porto and Málaga. These wines represents, as a matter of fact, a pretty exacting exercise for the evaluation of aromas, in particular because of the production technique used, apparently negative, such as oxidization and the development of beneficial yeasts, called “flor” by Spaniards, which greatly contribute to the aromatic complexity of these extraordinary wines. Describing with words, or by means of analogy, the enchanting and complex aroma of these wines is probably difficult, however, as they are perceived for the first time it is nearly impossible not to recognize them in subsequent tastings. This particular character, defined by Spaniards as “rancio”, is typical for Jerez, Marsala and Vernaccia di Oristano (an extraordinary non fortified wine, unfortunately not particularly known and that would certainly deserve a higher appreciation) and it basically is the result of oxidization. The same aroma, although slightly different, is also found in Madeira. When a wine has a strong hint of oxidization it is usually defined as maderized, just because it resemble the aroma of the renowned wine produced in the enchanting Portuguese island.

 Generally speaking, the typical aromas of fortified wines are pretty complex, strongly depending on the style of base wine, however are pretty common aromas of dried fruit, such as almond, hazelnut and fig, of jams, such as figs, apricot, orange, peach, black cherry, strawberry, blueberry and black currant. Fortified wines can also be produced with aromatic grapes, such as vin doux naturel from Languedoc-Roussillon, in this specific case muscat blanc à petits grains, therefore the charming aroma of the grape will be a primary characteristic of the wine. After a long time of aging in bottle, even of tens of years, fortified wines develop extremely complex and elegant aromas, such as leather, tar and balsamic aromas, such as Vintage Ports aged for more than 20 years as well as Marsala Vergine and Soleras.

 In fortified wines the presence of alcohol is evident from the very moment they enter the mouth and the tactile pseudo-caloric sensation could also appear as dominant in regard to the other gustatory perceptions. Despite the high alcohol by volume is a peculiarity for these wines, just like for the evaluation of aromas, the taste of alcohol must not be clearly perceivable; the flavors of the aromas perceived by the nose should be the dominant characteristics. Alcohol also plays a fundamental role in balance, a role that can vary according to the type of wine. Fortified wines, saved few exceptions, also have a pretty high quantity of sugar and its sweetness is clearly perceivable: in this specific case alcohol, thanks to its caustic effect on taste buds, will lower the perception of sweetness therefore avoiding the wine to taste sickly.

 Alcohol also has a balancing function for acidity, present in many white wines, and for astringency, virtually present in every red wine, such as Port. The quantity of alcohol represents, as a matter of fact, a critical choice because its contribute must never prevail over the other elements of the wine. It will play a balancing role while keeping the overall harmony of wine, despite the quantity of alcohol in these wine is pretty high, the sensation perceived in the mouth should be a pleasing “warm” sensation instead of “burning”. A characteristic of these wines is represented by their intense flavors that pervade the mouth from the beginning and, generally speaking, it is also characterized by an excellent taste-olfactory persistence. Fortified wines just like sweet and botrytised wines, are among the most persistent ones, often they go beyond 15 seconds and it is not rare to find wines lasting more than one minute.

 For the practical application about fortified wines we will examine three renowned and representative wines for this category: Jerez Fino, Tawny Port and Marsala Superiore Riserva Ambra. The temperature at which the three wines are served will be different for each one of them: Jerez Fino will be served at a temperature of 12° C (53° F), Marsala at 16° C (60° F) and Port at 18° C (65° F). The color of the three wines will clearly be different and they will all show different characteristics. Jerez will show a pale straw yellow color, Marsala will show a pretty intense amber yellow color, whereas Port will show an intense ruby red color with little transparency.

 At the nose the three wines will have very different aromas, however the aroma of oxidization will be pretty evident in Jerez and pretty appreciable in Marsala, a characteristic not found in Port. We will begin by evaluating Jerez and it will be the evident aroma of rancio to be clearly perceived, an aroma which is hardly definable and, as always, the best way to recognize it is just to perceive it. Jerez will also be characterized by aromas of dried fruit, in particular almond, hazelnut and dried fig, it will probably be perceived an aroma of very ripe banana, as well as of caramel. Even in Marsala the aroma of rancio will be clearly perceivable, followed by intense aromas of caramel, dried fig, fig jam, apricot jam, hazelnut, almond and date, as well as aromas of citrus fruit peel and leather. The aroma of Port is very different from the other two. In this wine will be the aromas of red and black skinned fruits, mostly of jams, to be perceived, such as black cherry, strawberry, cherry, blueberry and blackberry as well as an intense hint of violet.

 In the mouth Jerez will be very dry, with very intense flavors, in particular the one of hazelnut will be clearly perceivable and alcohol will play an important role in balancing acidity. The taste of Marsala will be pretty different: sweetness will be evident and the caustic sensation of alcohol will be more evident, Marsala usually has an alcohol by volume of 18%, and the combination of the two elements will avoid the wine to taste sickly. Also in this case flavors are very intense and will be the ones of caramel and fig jam to prevail. Even in Port the burning sensation of alcohol will be pretty evident, in this wine it can also be 20%, and alcohol will play a good role in the balance. Port's flavors will be characterized by black cherry jam and blueberry jam, very intense. All the three wines will have a long taste-olfactory persistence and it will probably be more than 15 seconds, a pretty common characteristic for this style of wines.

 Talking about Langhe makes certainly think about Piedmont's great wines, a historical bond that characterized the region since ever. However the most frequent thought associated to Langhe is about a particular wine, a great wine, one of those wines which made the fame of Italian wines famous all over the world: Barolo. This extraordinary wine, produced with Nebbiolo grape, has a pretty recent history and its deserved notoriety was thanks to the intuition of a great wine maker, French Louis Oudart, who revolutionized the production of this wine and made it one of the greatest of the world, a position Barolo still keep nowadays. The history of Barolo, defined as “wine of kings, kings of wine”, began around the half of 1800's when Marquise of Barolo, Giulietta Falletti, asked wine maker Louis Oudart, called in the Langhe by Camillo Benso count of Cavour, to improve the wines produced in her winery. Louis Oudart realized the productive faults of those wines were in the fermentation process, which was not done completely, and transformed Barolo from a sweet wine to a great dry wine. His results convinced Cavour to call Oudart to his castle in Grinzane in order to make the “new wine” and even king Vittorio Emanuele II converted his estate near the residence of Fontanafredda, in Serralunga d'Alba, to the production of this wine.

	Enzo and Gianni Boglietti brothers in their vineyard. In the back the city of La Morra

 The generous land of Langhe has a long and important tradition for great wines as well as great producers. Among the many places of Langa renowned for the production of wine there is the city of La Morra, with its 640 hectares of specialized vineyards (1,580 acres), of which about 400 (988 acres) cultivated with Nebbiolo grapes for the production of Barolo, is now a city renowned all over the world. Historical documents have proved the importance of La Morra as a land suited for the production of wine. It is believed that since Roman times vineyards were cultivated on the western side of the La Morra's hill towards Cherasco, on the land coasting Tanaro river. This hypothesis is also supported by many archaeological evidences dated back to Roman times and found in the valley of Rivalta, in the fields near the ancient walls of Pollenzo. However it will pass about one thousand years before the grapes of this land will be capable of producing the current and great wines of La Morra.

 In La Morra, one of the great homelands of Barolo, there is Enzo Boglietti's winery, ingenious and extroverted wine producer, with passion and strong convictions on how to make wine, in the short time of about ten years, he was successful in producing truly high quality wines which are renowned and looked for in many countries of the world. The production of wine in Enzo Boglietti's winery is pretty recent, it started in 1991 when he decided to make wine with his own grapes instead of selling them. In that year the total production was of about 10.000 bottles of which 2.600 of Barolo Vigna delle Brunate, 2.800 of Dolcetto, 3.200 of Langhe Nebbiolo and 1.200 of Barbera d'Alba Vigna dei Romani. Since then the success of Enzo Boglietti's wines has been striking and surprised wine lovers for their excellent characteristics. In 1993 starts the production of three new wines: Barolo Case Nere, Langhe Buio and Barbera d'Alba. In 1996 Gianni Boglietti, brother of Enzo, starts is stable collaboration with the winery and in that year were produced for the first time Barolo Fossati and Dolcetto d'Alba Tiglineri. In the same year wine maker Sergio Molino starts his stable collaboration with the winery.

Enzo and Gianni Boglietti in their cellar

 Since the beginnings of the business the productive strategy has been oriented towards the valuation of the typical characteristics of the vine and of the single vineyards, as well as keeping a high and strict level of quality. Casks used for the aging of wines are always brand new and are used for the production of the main wines of the winery and are subsequently used, in the course of years and after subsequent usage, for the production of other wines. Enzo Boglietti's wines are produced with the grapes cultivated in winery's estates, with cultivations of very low environmental impact. The production does not make use of biotechnologies and for the stabilization is uniquely used potassium metabisulphite and fresh eggs albumen for clarifying wines. In the course of years new vineyards have been acquired, as well as renting others, among them also a 40 years old vineyard, acquired in 1999, located in La Morra, where the grapes for the production of Barbera Roscaleto are harvested. The winery currently has 8 hectares of vineyards (20 acres) and 10.5 hectares rented (26 acres). The production is increased and in 2003 have been produced about 70.000 bottles.

 Enzo Bogglietti's wines, once they are tasted, leave a mark and they are unforgettable for their interpretation and quality. Not only Barolo wines are impressive, but also the other wines, such as the superb Barbera d'Alba Vigna dei Romani or the excellent Dolcetto d'Alba Tiglineri. Excellent are also the wines considered as base products of the winery, such as Langhe Nebbiolo and Barbera d'Alba; correct and well made wines. These two “base” wines, despite the fact they are considered as products of lesser prestige, both aged in cask, convince for their excellent production, clean aromas and good structure. Extremely interesting is also Langhe Buio, produced with Nebbiolo and Barbera grapes, very convincing and well made, where the characteristics of the grapes used for their production are clearly recognizable. Also excellent the interpretation of Dolcetto d'Alba Tiglineri: this wine, aged in cask, has a firm structure where typical aromas of the grapes are clearly perceivable as well as a pleasing spicy hint.

 Excellent are also the two Barbera “Roscaleto” and “Vigna dei Romani”. Barbera d'Alba Roscaleto is appreciable for its refined aromas and its balance, certainly a good wine. Barbera d'Alba Vigna dei Romani, one of the historical products of the winery, impresses for its strength, the excellent quality as well as for its elegance and finesse of aromas: a great Barbera. Enzo Boglietti's wines also include three great Barolo, very elegant, refined and of high quality: Barolo Case Nere, Barolo Fossati and Barolo Brunate. All the three wines are aged in barrique, 24 months for Case Nere and Fossati, 15 months for Brunate which continues its aging in cask for 15 months more. These wines have extraordinary characteristics, impressive structures and very clean, elegant and refined aromas: certainly three unforgettable wines that leave a mark for their charm. In the list of wines reviewed in this report are not included Dolcetto d'Alba Tiglineri, Barbera d'Alba Vigna dei Romani and Barolo Brunate because they have been reviewed on DiWineTaste few months ago and they are all available in the wines guide. Enzo Boglietti's winery is available for the tasting of his wines and reservations can be ordered by phoning the winery or by sending an E-Mail.