Every wine lover - as well as everyone who is getting into the charming world of the beverage of Bacchus - knows that among fundamental factors determining the quality of a wine is also included vintage. It does not only represent an important factor: the vintage is often considered as the only element in order to determine the real value - not only the money value - of a wine. In many cases vintage is the determining factor for the economic value of a wine, in particular as time passes by and, sometimes, even in case the keeping of the bottle was not the best. How actually important is the vintage of a wine? Of course - and indisputably - it is an extremely important factor but it is also true it is not the only factor capable of making a wine great. It should also be remembered - to tell the truth - that most of the times the myth of the vintage is also used for a disputable speculation.

 Let's make this concept clear from the beginning: vintage is important and according to the meteorological condition of the seasons, it is fundamental in determining a good part, and probably more than that, of the sentence about the quality of a wine. It should be however remembered a fundamental concept indissolubly connected to vintage and that allows consumers to prevent certain speculations. Since some years - an event which seems to magically and questionably repeat itself every time - as the harvesting period is about to come, it is frequently heard talking about the so called “vintage of the century” capable of promising great wines wherever and however. Finally those wines are poured in glasses and everyone has the chance to deny or confirm the premises of the year. Whereas it is understandable the reason of many rumors for purely commercial purposes, it is less understandable - as well as less agreeable - the honesty and the low credibility towards consumers. Of course, no one has a crystal ball to certainly tell the future, anyway a bit of seriousness would not be bad in some cases.

 In considering a vintage - which certainly plays an important role - it is good to remember that it only and uniquely makes sense when applied to a specific area, and in order to be more exacting, it has a higher value only in pretty small and limited areas. Whether it is true the quality of the vintage is determined by meteorological conditions, it is also true that, for example, in case in Umbria vintage was favored by good meteorological conditions, this does not mean that all the wine areas of the world had the very same positive conditions. Two emblematic examples are represented by vintages 1997 and 2002. 1997 has been defined as the best vintage of the last century - although it could be defined, polemically talking according to the repeated rumors of every year, one of the many defined as the best - and this was certainly true for some areas of the world, whereas in other ones it has been ordinary and modest. The same can be said about 2002, no matter it has been defined by many - rightly - as a non truly good vintage, in some areas it has however been capable of giving pretty good wines.

 In the sake of truth it should also be said the influence of the meteorological condition of a year is frequently compensated by the skill of the wine maker as well as by the support technology is capable of offering in the cellar. When the year is not particularly benevolent in the vineyard, most of the time it is the wine making technology which is capable of making real miracles - often unthinkable - in order to make acceptable even the worst conditions. In this regard it should be remembered the honesty of many producers who, having realized the not truly good meteorological condition of the year, prefer not to commercialize their wines or to sell them as more modest products, in particular at lower prices. Whether it is true this kind of choice is remarkable according to the honesty shown towards their customers, it is also true it represents an indisputable factor of seriousness for the safeguarding of the winery's best products. It is certainly true the choice of not commercializing these wines, or to reclassify them according to more appropriate standards for that vintage, represents an indisputable factor of honesty and seriousness, but it also indisputably represents a factor for economic loss. This is therefore a truly remarkable choice.

 Therefore, how can a consumer be safeguarded towards the vintage and - in particular - the speculation that can be made about this factor? It is frequently heard that in the worst or mediocre vintages it is best to choose wines from reliable producers, whereas in the best vintages “less famous” producers can be capable of making remarkable wines. In the less favorable years it is indisputable the technological factor and the skill of a good wine maker play a fundamental role for the improvement of a not truly excellent raw matter. In the best vintages - when the technological factor is less determinant because of a better quality of grapes - even “modest” producers are capable of making great wines. Does this mean that in order to make a quality wine it is necessary having modern and technologically advanced tools? Certainly not. No matter wine making technology now offers reliable and precise tools, allowing the control of the quality and the correctness of each stage, the human factor plays in the cellar - today as it was in the past - a role of primary importance.

 Despite human factor still plays an important role in the production of quality wine, it is indisputable the technological support has made the importance of vintage less determinant than it was in the past. It is thanks to wine making technology the gap among the many producers has been reduced while allowing them to make wines with less and less faults, however not helping at all to improve the producer's predisposition to quality. Of course, when the year is favorable, its support is reflected on wine in a strong and determinant way, sometimes making the wines produced in less favorable years appear very different as well as insignificant. Despite vintage represents an important factor, the skill of wine makers, as well as the technological support, avoid consumer to be continuously get informed about the real quality of a vintage and to be able to order a wine at the restaurant with a relative tranquility. Maybe the wine will not be exceptional in some vintages, however it will not even be very bad or disgusting, and it will however be appreciable. Finally vintage represents one of the many elements which makes a wine special and exciting, a factor that every year is capable of making the beverage of Bacchus different from another, with nuances and personalities that, in any case, are always capable of catching our attention and to tell different stories - either good or bad - by means of our senses.

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 Umbria, among the most suggestive and charming regions of Italy, is by many appreciated for its historical, cultural and artistic richness as well as for its enchanting views, rich of green in which dominate olive trees and vines. Olive oil and wine are in fact two fundamental elements of the enogastronomical culture of the region which set its root in ancient rural traditions. Umbrian cooking is based on simple and humble ingredients however genuine, tasty and dainty: a good attraction for the countless tourists that every year come in this region looking for nice food and nice wines. Umbria has always been considered a land of saints, heroes and refined artists who gave fame and prestige not only to the history of the region but also to the one of Italy. Umbria is also famous in the world for its wines: it is not by chance this region is by many considered as the “Italian Bourgogne”, and here enology set its root in the era of the ancient Etruscans, the glorious and mysterious people who established in the western part of the region more than 3,000 years ago.

 The prestige of Umbrian wines was very high during Etruscan and Roman times and many are the praises written by many great and important authors of the past, such as Pliny the Elder and Martial, who praised their quality in their writings. In subsequent periods the notoriety of Umbrian wine experienced different moments of luck and fame. Around the end of 1400's Umbrian wine was very appreciated and looked for, in particular the ones produced at Orvieto that were also requested by the renowned painter from Perugia Bernardino di Betto, known as Pinturicchio, as a part of the remuneration for his works at the cathedral of Orvieto. Even other Umbrian painters, including the great Pietro Vannucci, known as Perugino, requested that part of the remuneration for their paintings would be in the form of good wine, a custom, it seems, pretty common among the artists of the past. In later periods, in Umbria as in other Italian regions, wine was produced in huge quantities and low quality, as wine was a fundamental resource for the nutrition of the ones who was making it, therefore the more, the better.

Umbria

 The real change for Umbrian enology and viticulture takes place in the beginning of the 1960's which will lead, in 1968, to the first and important prestigious success of the first Umbria's DOC designated to Torgiano. This important and fundamental success was the consequence of the tenacity and capacity of one of the greatest people of the Umbrian and Italian enology, Giorgio Lungarotti, whose wines are now renowned all over the world. The success of Torgiano will be affirmed in 1990 with the designation of the first Umbrian DOCG to Torgiano Rosso Riserva wine. Few kilometers from Torgiano another great man of Umbrian enology is ready to revive the great heritage of his land. Arnaldo Caprai begins his triumphant way to the world of wine by acquiring, in the beginning of 1970's, some vineyards in Montefalco. From the beginning he pays his attention to the dream of reviving the fame of the local red berried grape Sagrantino, forgotten and scarcely appreciated by many and in Montefalco, at those times, many are about to replace it in the vineyards with other varieties. Caprai is convinced about the potentialities of Sagrantino grape and calls in the winery his son Marco, whose passion and tenacity will be fundamental for the development and the affirmation of worldwide success for Sagrantino.

 Even at Orvieto, already famous in ancient times for its white wines, will take place some important events that will greatly contribute to the success and prestige of Umbrian enology. It will be the Antinori family to create at Castello della Sala at Ficulle, near Orvieto, two of the most celebrated Italian wines in recent years and that will contribute to the creation of a new style. Thanks to the intuitions and passion of wine maker Renzo Cotarella - brother of another celebrated wine maker, Riccardo Cotarella, who were both born in Umbria - it will be made a great white, Cervaro della Sala, mainly produced with Chardonnay to which is added a small part of the par excellence Umbrian white berried grape: Grechetto. A wine which impresses from the very beginning for its elegance and, as a matter of fact, represents a new style in Italian white wines. The success is repeated few years later with the renowned Muffato della Sala, produced with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea - the noble rot - a phenomenon that Italy has in Orvieto its main representative.

 The current enological condition in Umbria is facing great changes in which quality is continuously increasing and most of the producers in the region have abandoned since many years bulk productions in favor of a better quality. Umbria is the only region of peninsular Italy having no coastlines and the land mainly is hilly, a condition that allows a good cultivation of vine and olive trees. The hilly view is in fact a virtually constant characteristic present everywhere in the region. From north to south, from east to west, Umbria is an uninterrupted up and down of hills and slopes in which dominate the gray-green colors of olive trees and the neat rows of vineyards occasionally broke by the many and placid cities rich in art, history and traditions. Wines produced in Umbria are both red and whites - virtually in equal quantity - as well as sweet wines produced with grapes dried on mats, of which the best representatives are Vin Santo, which in Umbria has a long and strong tradition, just like in many other regions in Italy, and Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito.

 In Umbria are being cultivated both white and red berried grapes, and both represent an important factor of region's enology. As opposed to other regions in which dominates a specific style of wine, in Umbria, also because of its traditions, the production is divided, almost equally, between white wines and red wines. Among white berried grapes, Grechetto is the one playing the primary role, an autochthonous Umbrian grape spread all over the region and with which are produced interesting white wines, both vinified with this grape alone and blended with other varieties and in particular with Chardonnay. The most important red berried grape is Sagrantino, and no matter it is almost exclusively cultivated in Montefalco - its homeland - the wines produced with this grape are now the most representative ones of Umbria. Among other white berried grapes of the region there are Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano Toscano, Verdello, Canaiolo Bianco and Procanico, whereas for red berried grapes there are Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo Nero, Montepulciano, Barbera and, in particular, Gamay introduced in the area of Trasimeno lake more than one century ago and with which are produced interesting wines. In Umbria are also found the so called “international grapes”, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Riesling, as for white berried varieties, as well as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, as for red berried grapes.

 The wines of Umbria are classified according the quality system in force in Italy and precisely, from the lowest level to the highest one: Vini da tavola (table wines), IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Typical Geographic Indication), DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Denomination of Controlled Origin) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin). In Umbria there are currently two DOCG areas: Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Sagrantino di Montelfaco (or Montefalco Sagrantino), both being red wines and to certainly be considered among the most important wines of the region. The wine production areas currently designated as DOC by the quality system are 11 and precisely: Assisi, Colli Altotiberini, Colli Amerini, Colli del Trasimeno, Colli Martani, Colli Perugini, Lago di Corbara, Montefalco, Orvieto, Rosso Orvietano and Torgiano. It should be however observed that a pretty high percentage of wines is produced as IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Typical Geographic Indication) and here, just like in all the other regions of Italy, the quality of these products is often higher than many other wines belonging to higher categories.

 Few kilometers south from Perugia, the capital city of Umbria, there is the town of Torgiano, renowned all over the world for the production of wine. Its success is mainly the result of the work of Giorgio Lungarotti, who thanks to his intuitions, tenacity and capacity was capable of transforming the image of a place by means of wine. The area of Torgiano is now recognized both as DOC and DOCG, in both cases it was the first area in Umbria to achieve this goal (DOC recognition was designated in 1968 and DOCG in 1990). The notoriety of Torgiano certainly is represented by Torgiano Rosso Riserva, the only DOCG wine of this area and mainly produced with Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero grapes. The production of Torgiano's DOC wines is pretty vast and includes white, red, rose and sparkling wines. Bianco di Torgiano is produced with Trebbiano Toscano and Grechetto and among the white wines are also interesting the monovarietals produced with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling Italico. Rosso di Torgiano - the first red to be famous outside this area - is produced with Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero and a small part of Trebbiano Toscano. The production of red wines also includes monovarietals made of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, whereas rose wines are produced with the same grapes of Torgiano Rosso.

 Montefalco certainly is the wine area which is having lots of attention since many years and which is more and more becoming the reference wine area in Umbria. Montefalco area is located about 40 kilometers east from Perugia (about 25 miles) and the success of its Sagrantino called in the area famous producers coming from other regions. Just like the neighboring Torgiano, Montefalco shares its area with DOC and DOCG designations. Only wines exclusively produced with Sagrantino are recognized as DOCG, which can be produced as dry and sweet (passito). In past times Sagrantino was exclusively produced as passito, a sweet wine, rich and full bodied, which well matched the rich Easter meals of Montefalco's people. Despite Sagrantino Passito is still very appreciated - and not only in Montefalco - it is however the dry style to catch most of the attention. Sagrantino vinified as dry is the result of pretty recent researches, about 30 years ago, anyway its improvement is mainly because of the remarkable and precious work in researching and revaluation done by Arnaldo Caprai and his son Marco. Sagrantino is a robust and powerful grape - with a very high quantity of tannins and a remarkable organoleptic richness - which concretely faced the risk of extinguishment from the vineyards in Montefalco in favor of other varieties, whereas today, thanks to the efforts of producers, it is a grape capable of making wines appreciated everywhere in the world. In the Montefalco area are also produced DOC white and red wines. Montefalco Bianco is produced with Grechetto and Trebbiano Toscano, whereas Montefalco Rosso - a truly interesting red wine - is mainly produced with Sangiovese and Sagrantino grapes and it is also available as reserve.

 In past times whenever Italian wine was mentioned, Orvieto was one of the few names to be more frequently remembered. To tell the truth it should also be admitted that whether in ancient times - in the era dating as back as Etruscan times - Orvieto wines were celebrated and appreciated everywhere, the same cannot be said for the subsequent periods. Speculation done in Orvieto, not only by local producers but also and mainly by the ones coming from other areas, was just aiming to bulk productions while depriving the wine of the glorious quality which made this area famous in the past. Luckily, since many years things are changing and producers are now aiming to a strict quality in the hope of reaching that quality so praised in past times again. Orvieto is mainly renowned for its white wines produced with Procanico - the local name for Trebbiano Toscano - Verdello, Grechetto, Drupeggio - elsewhere known as Canaiolo Bianco - and Malvasia Toscana. White wines are also produced as Classico, Superiore and Classico Superiore. Remarkable and interesting is the production of some sweet wines produced with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea - the renowned noble rot - a phenomenon which frequently happens in Orvieto and known since many years. In Orvieto are recently being produced DOC red wines known as Rosso Orvietano (or Orvietano Rosso), both as a blend and as monovarietals, made of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo Nero and Aleatico.

 One of the areas which is getting more and more interest and success is Colli del Trasimeno. This area is located west from Perugia and includes all the cities and areas near the Trasimeno Lake. The area is designated as DOC and the production of wine makes use of a pretty high quantity of grape varieties, both white and red. Among the white berried grapes there is Grechetto - the Umbrian autochthonous spread all over the region - Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia del Chianti, Verdello and Verdicchio. It should be observed that Grechetto is the only grape from which is allowed the production of monovarietal white wines. Among red berried grapes are cultivated Sangiovese, Gamay, Ciliegiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Interesting is the presence of Gamay, to be considered as a particular case in the spreading of this renowned grape. Gamay was introduced in the Trasimeno area more than one century ago and now is so common to be almost considered a typical grape of the area. Red wines produced with Gamay in the Colli del Trasimeno are pretty interesting and are to be considered as the best DOC red wines of this area.

 Among the most interesting wine areas of Umbria should certainly be mentioned Colli Amerini, among the most interesting areas of the region for the production of red wines that here are made of Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo Nero, Barbera and Merlot. Among the most recent DOC areas there is Assisi, in particular for Grechetto vinified as monovarietal. Even the production of Colli Martani is interesting both for white wines and red wines, although the celebrity of this area is Grechetto di Todi, a white wine produced in pretty limited quantities. An area which is completely involved in the production of red wines is Lago di Corbara, near Orvieto, in which are found Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, also vinified as monovarietals. In the area which goes from Perugia to the northern border of Umbria there is Colli Altotiberini DOC area, in which are produced both white wines and red wines. South from Perugia is found the DOC area of Colli Perugini, which also reaches part of the province of Terni, and in which are mainly produced white and red wines.

 Pinot Noir is a rather bizarre grape and it certainly is among the most difficult grapes to cultivate and to vinify. It does not only require proper climate conditions in order to give its best in the vineyard, Pinot Noir also requires a high level of skill both from the agronomist and the wine maker. Pinot Noir is a difficult test for everyone trying to use this grape in order to make wine, a condition which is also true in its homeland and still considered the best area: Bourgogne. The difficulty in producing wines with Pinot Noir probably is one of the reasons about the division between the lovers of the beverage of Bacchus. For many Pinot Noir is capable of making wines of great class and elegance, probably like no other else, for others it is a grape capable of making emotionless wines. Maybe the ones who support it do that because they had the opportunity to taste great Pinot Noir wines, whereas the ones who cannot appreciate it, probably have always tasted mediocre Pinot Noirs, to tell the truth, the majority of wines produced with this grape.

 Pinot Noir is among the most ancient grapes of which exists historical evidences and its homeland is highly probable to be Bourgogne. It is believed Pinot Noir is being cultivated in Bourgogne for more than 2,000 years, it seems it was already present in the region before Roman invasions. Since those times Pinot Noir had a good notoriety and some famous authors, such as Pliny the Elder and Columella, mentioned the grape in their works. Pinot Noir is a variety defined as genetically unstable, that is it can easily change into other varieties. It is believed there are more than 1,000 different clonal varieties belonging to the family of Pinot, of which the most renowned ones are Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Meunier, now considered as specific varieties. Pinot Noir's easiness of mutation represents a critical factor for its cultivation which is moreover added to the necessity of a cool climate in order to allow a slow ripeness. The cultivation of Pinot Noir and the subsequent production of wine always represents a challenge and it is not by chance high quality wines produced with this grape are pretty few, whereas are pretty common wines of mediocre, or even low, quality.

	A bunch of Pinot Noir

 Bourgogne is to be considered as the best territory for Pinot Noir and in particular Côte d'Or, from which are certainly coming the best wines of the world produced with this grape. Pinot Noir is also common in Champagne - north from Bourgogne - where this grape is used for the production of the renowned sparkling wines. Pinot Noir is used in Champagne to give a fuller body to wine as well as increasing its aromatic complexity, last but not the least, it is also used alone without adding any other grape. Pinot Noir is the most used red berried grape for the production of sparkling wines, of which the most part is produced with the classic method and vinified as a white, that is by separating the skins from the must soon after pressing. Pinot Noir is also responsible for the enchanting color in rose sparkling wines, obtained by adding some red wine produced with this grape, as well as with rose wines produced with the bleeding technique (saignée in French).

 The name Pinot derives from the typical shape of the bunch of this grape, compact and small, resembling a pine cone. The berry of Pinot Noir has a thin skin, a modest coloring capacity, a pretty low content in tannins and a pretty high content in acids. Wines produced with this grape, because of the low contents of extracts in its thin skin, are relatively delicate and, again because of the composition of its berries, Pinot Noir does not allow a broad possibilities in creating many styles as opposed to other red berried grapes. Acidity is the critical factor in Pinot Noir and it must be preserved as much as possible in order not to compromise wine balance. The best way to keep Pinot Noir's acidity is to cultivate this grape in cool climate areas in order to allow a slow ripeness and an elegant and optimal development of aromas. For this reason Pinot Noir is not recommended in warm climate areas because it tends to ripen quickly while losing its precious acidity and developing pretty ordinary aromas.

 Pinot Noir's berries have a thin skin, a deep blue color and develop in small bunches. This grape is pretty susceptible to molds and it is a variety which ripens in advance as opposed to other red berried varieties and in Bourgogne harvesting takes place in the same period in which is being harvested Chardonnay. The yield of Pinot Noir is usually low and it is susceptible to many vine diseases, a condition that makes this grape more difficult to cultivate. Pinot Noir prefers limestone soils whereas clay soils, cool and wet, should be avoided. Because of the low content in tannins and in coloring pigments, wines produced with this grape are usually transparent with pretty pale hues, something which is truly different, for example, from the typical colors of wines produced with Cabernet Sauvignon or Sangiovese. In particularly bad years, some producers add some stems to the must in order to compensate the reduced quantity of tannins in the skins of Pinot Noir.

 The wine making styles for Pinot Noir can basically be summarized in two categories: red wines and sparkling wines. In the production of red wines, Pinot Noir is most of the cases vinified alone instead of being blended with other grapes. Despite red wines produced with Pinot Noir are frequently fermented or aged in cask, the contribution of wood is often very balanced thanks to the choice of casks made of not excessively toasted wood. As opposed to other grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in Pinot Noir wines will hardly be perceived strong and dominant aromas of vanilla and toasted wood, this is because cask, when excessively used, tends to cover the fresh and elegant aromas of this grape. It should also be observed that the aging of Pinot Noir in cask contributes to the enrichment of the wine by adding the tannins passed from wood and therefore it can play a fundamental role in balance. In sparkling wines Pinot Noir is generally used for the production of classic method wines to which adds body and aromatic complexity. The longevity of red wines produced with Pinot Noir is pretty variable and it is strongly affected by quality. The average duration is usually from 2 and 8 years, sometimes 10 years as well, however it should be remembered that only the best Pinot Noirs, produced with high quality standards and criteria, can develop for 8-10 years.

 Because of the thin skin of its berries, Pinot Noir does not have remarkable coloring capacities, a characteristic which is well evident in the color and in the transparency of its red wines. The color in red wines produced with Pinot Noir can range from pretty pale hues to moderate intense ones, according to the quality of grapes and by maceration times. During youth the color will have ruby red hues that will evolve with aging into garnet red and therefore evident orange red hues. The transparency in Pinot Noir is always well evident: light will easily pass wine; something which is very different from the impenetrable transparencies of other varieties such as in many Cabernet Sauvignons. The presence of Pinot Noir in sparkling wines is frequently signaled by a deeper intensity of color. Whether in most of the cases sparkling wines have greenish yellow or pale straw yellow colors, when Pinot Noir is present, the hues gets deeper up to evident golden yellow colors. It should however be remembered that a deeper intensity of color in classic method sparkling wines can also be caused by long periods of aging on the lees and in the bottle. Finally, the pink color of many classic method sparkling wines - including Rose Champagne and Franciacorta Rosé - is because of the presence of wines produced with Pinot Noir vinified as red, added to a cuvée made of white wines, as well as a rose wine produced with the bleeding method.

 Pinot Noir probably is the most renowned representative of fresh and clean aromas of fruit, capable of giving extremely elegant wines of indisputable class, a characteristic, to tell the truth, found only in high quality wines. Pinot Noir aromas are delicate and subtle - however well pronounced - and for this reason it is required an excellent skill for the wine maker in order not to cover or lose the elegant aromas of this grape. The use of casks made of very toasted wood certainly is the mistake every wine maker scrupulously avoids just because this would easily cover the aromas of Pinot Noir, except when it is wished to give the wine pronounced wood aromas. However most of the wines produced with Pinot Noir are fermented and aged in cask and the intelligent use of wood - the level of toasting and the aging period - is one of the factors which contributes to the elegance and class of these wines. Typical aromas of the fermentation and aging in cask will never be strong in Pinot Noir. It should however be observed that many producers prefer vinifying Pinot Noir in inert containers - such as stainless steel - however obtaining extremely refined and elegant results.

 Wines produced with Pinot Noir grape cultivated in areas with pretty cool climate, or harvested when they do not have reached optimal ripeness, are characterized by aromas that can also reminds herbaceous substances or vegetables, such as mint, tomato leaf and dill, however it will be clearly and evidently perceivable the fruity nature of the grape, in particular aromas of red berried fruits, such as cherry, raspberry, strawberry and blueberry. Wines produced in the areas having a warm climate, or grapes harvested at optimal ripeness, fruit aromas will be very evident and pronounced. There will be perceived the typical and characteristic aromas of Pinot Noir's fruits, such as cherry, raspberry and strawberry, as well as floral aromas such as rose and violet. The evolution of Pinot Noir in bottle develops very complex aromas in which the sensations of fruits will be transformed into jams and therefore, to the apex of aging, in aromas of undergrowth, leather, mushroom and game. The presence of Pinot Noir in white classic method sparkling wines is usually signaled by aromas of red berried fruit which will be added to the typical aromas of these wines. In rose classic method sparkling wines the typical fruit aromas of Pinot Noir will be very evident and predominant.

 The taste of wines produced with Pinot Noir is characterized by an evident acidity and, in case it was not properly controlled, it can also compromise balance. After all Pinot Noir is a grape notoriously difficult to cultivate and vinify, therefore requires particular attention and good capacities in cellar. Pinot Noir's acidity is strongly influenced both by the level of ripeness and the area in which it was cultivated, however, because of the low content in tannins, it will be the right acidity to contribute to the proper balance of the wine. No matter the aging in bottle generally makes Pinot Noir more round and velvety, acidity will be a characteristic that will accompany the entire evolution of these wines. One of the factors useful for balancing the evident acidity of grape is represented by alcohol that in wines produced with Pinot Noir is often pretty high. Roundness of the wine will also be determined by the aging in cask which will also contribute to increase its body.

 Pinot Noir is a grape which is not easy to cultivate and to vinify in case the goal is the production of high quality wines. Considered as an international grape since many years, Pinot Noir is virtually spread in every wine making country of the world, appreciated by many as a superb example of elegance, indifferent to others because of its scarce color which makes it appear as a modest wine. It should however be observed that high quality wines produced with Pinot Noir are pretty few, whereas it is very easy to find wines produced with this grape that in the best cases could be defined as mediocre. The indisputable homeland of Pinot Noir is Bourgogne - and in particular Côte d'Or - where this grape is capable of giving its best in countless interpretations, also thanks to the climate conditions of the area, the mutability of the grape and the wine making tradition strongly based on the differences of the territory. In Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir wines usually are full bodied and complex, with intriguing mineral and spicy hints. In the neighboring Côte de Beaune it is the fruit character of the grape to prevail in the style of these wines, rounder and with a faster aging. In other areas of Burgundy, good examples of Pinot Noir can be found in the village of Pommard; other interesting examples, with different qualities, are the wines produced in the Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey and Givry. In France Pinot Noir is also present in Champagne, where it is being used for the production of the renowned sparkling wines, in the Loire Valley and in Alsace.

 In other areas of Europe Pinot Noir produces good examples in Switzerland - in particular at Valais and Neuchâtel, where it is known as Blauburgunder - whereas in Austria are being produced good Pinot Noirs in the area of Burgenland. In Germany this grape is pretty common, known as Blauburgunder, mainly in the areas of Palatinate (Pfalz), Franconia and Ahr, moreover Pinot Noir is pretty successful in Romania as well. In Italy the best examples of wines produced with Pinot Noir come from the North-East area and in particular from Alto-Adige, however good examples can also be found in Tuscany, Umbria and in the Oltrepò Pavese where it is also vinified as white. In the so called New World Pinot Noir is having a good attention and the best examples are from, as far as United States of America is concerned, from Oregon - certainly the best American area for Pinot Noir - and from the coolest areas of California, such as Russian River, Carneros (mainly used for the production of classic method sparkling wines), Santa Barbara (in particular the areas of Santa Maria and Santa Ynez) and Monterey. No matter the climate of Argentina is too hot for Pinot Noir, good examples are produced in the Río Negro area, whereas in South Africa this grape has produced few but good examples, in particular in the cool Walker Bay. In Australia most of the Pinot Noir is produced in Victoria, in particular at Yarra Valley. The cool climate of New Zealand allows the production of excellent Pinot Noir wines, in particular in the areas of Marlborough, Martinborough and Central Otago.

 Among the most renowned and celebrated wines of the world there is - with no doubt at all - Champagne, the refined sparkling wine that has always been, since ever, symbol of class, elegance and well living. The Champagne region - which is located in the northern part of France, not far from Paris - is divided into five areas of which the three most important ones are Côte de Blancs, Montagne de Reims and la Vallée de la Marne, and the other two being Aube and Côte de Sézanne. The grapes which dominate the view of this region are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the three grapes used for the production of the renowned wines with the precious chains of bubbles. In the heart of the region of Marne is the headquarter, since the year of its establishment, of the Maison de Champagne Marie Stuart.

Champagne Marie Stuart headquarter

 The Maison is named after Marie Stuart, the generous and loyal queen, among the most charismatic personalities of Renaissance. Marie Stuart was welcomed in Reims by his aunt, abbess Renée de Lorraine, where she stayed for a long time in the Abbey Saint-Pierre-les Dames. During her stay, Marie Stuart conquered the heart of writers, poets and inhabitants of Reims. Through the Abbey where Marie Stuart stayed, is opened, when the revolution was still in the process, the route of Levant that later will be named after the renowned queen. In 1897 Maître Daubresse, a famous personality of Reims, established the Maison de Champagne and chooses, for the first time, the name of a queen to honor the more prestigious wine of the world: that's how the history of Champagne Marie Stuart was born.

 Marie Stuart is now considered among the most prestigious Champagne brands, and this achievement is confirmed by the class and the elegance of its wines. Since the year of its establishment, Maison de Champagne Marie Stuart has its headquarter in a suggestive and elegant architectural building which includes, besides the reception hall and the winery's offices, the cellars where the many millésime are being produced as well as another cellar where five millions bottles of Champagne age. The grapes used for the production of Champagne strictly come from selected vineyards located in the three great Champagne areas: Côte de Blancs, Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne. The assembling of wines (assemblage) is scrupulously selected, according the tradition of Marie Stuart, by wine maker and cellar chief Laurent Fedou.

	The aging cellar: hand remuage of Champagne bottles

 Marie Stuart is today part of Alain Thienot Group, seventh group of the Champagne which includes other four prestigious brands: Champagne Alain Thienot, Champagne Joseph Perrier, Champagne Canard-Duchêne and Champagne Malard. In the past four years Alain Thienot Group has been particularly focused in the introduction of its Champagne in the Italian market, concentrating its efforts in Champagne Marie Stuart, now present in many high quality hotels and restaurants of the main Italian cities, as well as taking actively part to many social and mundane events including the Woman Day. Alain Thienot Group also includes other wineries in the Bordeaux area such as Château de Ricaud, Château Rahoul, Château La Garance and Château Haut Gros Caillou.

 The production of Champagne Marie Stuart is scrupulous and every phase is strictly controlled. As the grapes have been pressed, the must is tasted before being used for the wine making procedures in order to use homogeneous quality of products for the same style of wine. At the end of vinification, all wines are being tasted, no matter their origin or vintage, and therefore are being classified by a specific tasting committee according to purely sensorial principles. The blend that will make the cuvée is controlled and corrected in subsequent phases and until it does not receive the unanimous acceptance from all the tasters who created it.

 The selection of Champagne Marie Stuart certainly is interesting and of very good quality. Champagne Brut Tradition, produced with the classic combination Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, reveals a refined and elegant delicacy both to the nose and to the mouth. Truly convincing and of great class is Champagne Brut Rosé Tradition - which shows a beautiful and enchanting pink color - with its fresh and fragrant fruit aromas and taste, it is extremely agreeable and well made. Another pleasing surprise is offered by Champagne Demi-Sec Tradition - a pretty rare style and not really common when compared to the huge availability of bruts - which expresses its remarkable elegance to the nose and confirmed to the mouth by its slightly sweet and round taste: a truly well made combination and of great agreeability. Champagne Brut Millésime 1997 impresses for its refined complexity and for the variety of aromas, full bodied, it also confirms in the mouth its indisputable class with a pleasing roundness and personality. Finally, at the end of this selection, there is the excellent Champagne Cuvée de la Sommelière which fully benefits from the five years of aging in its lees. Cuvée de la Sommelière reveals the full elegance of Chardonnay to which is joined the good support of Pinot Noir: the result is convincing and of great class, elegant and refined aromas that are confirmed by taste as well as a good structure and roundness. A very well made Champagne of sure elegance and class.