Summertime is now over leaving the memory of the many torrid days and few rainy days, at least here in Italy. After two not truly amazing years, according to an enological point of view, as it was already predicted and as it was confirmed by glasses, it seems this year will finally be a good one and that meteorological conditions have been such to expect a good harvesting and vintage 2004 in Italy. By the time you are reading these words, most of the wineries will be done harvesting grapes in their vineyards. The result of the harvest will already be in the cellars in order to begin the “tumultuous” journey that from fermentation leads to the creation of wine: a miracle which is always enchanting and that every year promises new emotions, good ones and bad ones.

 Comments that “experts of the field” told about vintage 2004 seems to be encouraging and promising, so good that many of them said 2004 will be as good as 2001, indisputably one of the best in recent years. Moreover, many have said that 2004 will be even comparable to the almost “legendary” 1997, that in many areas of Italy was capable of giving wine of excellent quality. Premises and comparisons apart, one thing we can be relatively certain about vintage 2004 is that it will be better than 2003 and 2002, two vintages that will not certainly be remembered for the quality of their wines, with our respect for the hard works of those who every year make wine and believe in their land. After all the good part of wine is also that: every year there is a new match and only at the end you know about the result, which is always different and always new, luckily.

 In Italy the 2002 was certainly not excellent, things got better in 2003, however both years - talking in general terms, of course - have not been that good and they will probably not be the ones we will remember with pleasure in future. Of course, not all the wine produced in 2002 and in 2003 is to be forgotten or underrated. If we consider things according to a more specific point of view, in which we do not consider the uneven law of generalization and we examine the results of regions, or even better small areas, it is possible to find some good bottles in these two vintages. In other words, for every vintage it is always appropriate to consider each area and each producer. They can be expressed general judgments representing the result of each vintage, but this could be unjust for those areas in which mother nature was not cruel and malevolent like in others. Generalization can always make innocent victims or can emphasize something which had no particular merits.

 This is the case of 1997 in which many have speculated on the extraordinary results of many areas and producers, indeed it is commonly known that whether in certain areas the results have been excellent, in others have simply been good or very good, however not excellent. Still today it is enough to say a wine is vintage 1997 and it is considered exceptional, even without considering other parameters or factors: it is 1997, it must be exceptional anyway. The same is true, in the opposite, for vintage 2002 and - in a lesser extent - for 2003. Wines belonging to these two vintages are considered inferior without even pouring them in a glass. Indeed we known, just because we poured these wines in our glasses, there was something good to be saved, both in 2002 and in 2003. Indisputably, with wines of vintage 2001 it is easier to find a higher quantity of good bottles.

 We should probably need to learn to listen more what a wine can tell from the glass - just like we should do in relationships with people - with no prejudices. We have to learn to express our judgment only after we completely know a wine, after having tasted it and allowed it to tell us its story. Of course there will be wines capable of telling more enchanting and exciting stories than others, this does not mean however other stories are not worth listening or not important. Moreover, whoever consider himself or herself a real wine lover or wine taster, knows the educational and cultural value of tasting average quality wines belonging to different vintages. Only this let us to appreciate and recognize the best things from the bad ones. After all it can be recognized only what is already known, they can be evaluated only things that can be compared one each other: a process which is possible only by knowing different things, those things - as a matter of fact - which represent the reference parameters for every taster.

 As for 2004, let's take all the prediction as a good wish in the hope they will be confirmed with results. In case it will be like this, this is for sure, the first ones to be happy for will certainly be wine lovers who - with not doubt - will share their joy with wine producers. For the moment we have to trustfully wait - like always - the ones who every year harvest the fruit of their vineyards and make it into wine: we know they will be capable of making the very best they can with what nature gives them. Of course, sometimes in the cellar can be made real miracles and from low quality grapes they can make unhoped results, not certainly extraordinary but however acceptable. It seems this year things will totally go different from the past years and - at least in the premises - we should have very good wines from every region of Italy and that will make us forget about the recent vintages and remember the very good vintage 2001. We just have to wait… while crossing our fingers.

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 In case we should tell the most complex wines to make, those requiring the mastery of talented wine makers, as well as the patient work of time and the invaluable contribution of the nature of a place, one of the first wines to mention would certainly be Jerez. No matter it is extremely difficult to make, and capable of giving emotions like few others, this wine - known in English speaking countries as Sherry and in France as Xérès - today it is probably one of the most underrated wines of the world, a condition it unfortunately shares with all fortified wines. Nevertheless a glass of this extraordinary wine, or better a copita, in case we want to use a Spanish word, as a tribute to the homeland of this great wine, always offers lots of pleasing emotions and to the nose of the connoisseur an extraordinary olfactory experience which can be hardly found in other wines. Despite of this, facts tell a truly different story and among wine lovers few of them seek or appreciate fortified wines, including Jerez.

 Jerez is named after the homonymous city of Jerez de la Frontera, located in Andalusia, in the southern part of Spain and near the Strait of Gibraltar. It seems Phoenicians introduced vine in Spain and at Roman times wines of this country were already well known and appreciated, as witnessed by the writings of Pliny the Elder in his monumental Naturalis Historia and of Lucio Columella - who was born in Cádiz, not far from Jerez - in his De Re Rustica. Jerez wine has always known a very high fame outside Spain and since the half of fourteenth century there are documents which prove huge exports, annotated in trade books with the term saca. They were two words of Arab origins - saca and Xeris - to give origin to the term still used in England to refer to this wine: Sherry. It seems it was William Shakespeare to “invent” the term sherris sack - a clear Anglicization of the two Arab terms - that will soon become Sherry.

The production area of Jerez (Sherry)

 The interest Englishmen had for this wine has always been very high, so high that many families moved to Spain both for beginning flourishing trade businesses with their mother land, as well as for establishing wineries for the production of Jerez, an event this wine shares with other great fortified wines: Port, Marsala and Madeira. Englishmen were not the only ones who moved to Jerez de la Frontera and working on the local wine trade, even French, Scottish, Irish and Dutch businessmen did the same. The interest of these businessmen greatly contributed to the spreading and development of Jerez and still today some of the most important Jerez wineries - called bodegas in Spanish - are owned by the European families who moved in this region. The area of Jerez de la Frontera is also famous for other two excellent products: brandy and vinegar. At Jerez the distillation of wine is an activity having a double importance: it is fundamental for the production of the excellent brandy as well as for the fortification of Jerez wine. Vinegar of Jerez is made with the wine which during the many phases of production is affected by acetic bacteria and therefore it cannot be used for making wine. Vinegar of Jerez is aged with the Solera y Criaderas system, the same used for the production of wine and of brandy.

 Jerez - Sherry or Xérès, as it is generally known outside of its homeland, was the first wine in Spain to which was conferred the Denominación de Origen - abbreviated as DO - whose area is delimited by the territories of the communes of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. The climate of this area is strongly affected by the influence of the Atlantic ocean and by the rivers Rio Guadalquivir and Rio Guadalete. Grapes cultivated in this area and used for the production of Jerez are three and precisely Palomino, Pedro Ximénez and Muscatel. Of the three, Palomino is the most important one, considered the Jerez grape par excellence. Palomino is a white berried grape - just like the other two varieties - with a thin skin and clusters of average size and the white wine tables produced with this grape do not have truly interesting organoleptic characteristics: it will be the particular method of production of Jerez that will transform Palomino into an extraordinary wine rich in complex organoleptic qualities.

 The area of Jerez in which is being cultivated the vine is classified according to the percentage of calcium carbonate found in the soil, the typical and appreciated soil made of chalky sediments, a characteristic Jerez shares with Champagne. The best grapes for the production of Jerez comes from vineyards whose soil is rich in chalky sediments, very porous and capable of keeping water and air, while forcing the vine to extend its roots very deep. The types of soils classified in the area are four:

• Albariza - considered as the best soil which gives Jerez its typical character. Albariza is the most common soil type in the Jerez Superior area, north from Jerez de la Frontera, and considered as the best soil for the cultivation of the vine. Its composition can also be made of 50% of chalk, has an excellent capacity of absorbing and keeping water and air. This type of soil is easily recognized because of its pale color, almost white
• Albarizones - made of about 25% of chalk, this soil is a blend of albariza and clay
• Barros - a soil manly made of clay and about 10% of chalk. Its color is dark brown, it is pretty rich in organic substances, however its grapes produce less delicate wines
• Arenas - soil of yellow-reddish color because of the presence of iron oxides, it is typical in the north-eastern area. It is made of sand with a subsoil of clay

 Jerez is a very complex wine, not only in its production, but also in its classification. The wide range of Jerez styles goes beyond the simple definition of fortified wine, in fact these wines are classified according to their sweetness and - more important - according to the family they belong to. All Jerez wines are classified according to two main categories: fino and oloroso. Jerez finos are more delicate and with a pale color, dry and with appreciable acidity, whereas Jerez olorosos are more robust, with darker colors, and are produced both as dry and sweet. In these two categories are being grouped seven different styles of Jerez and the sweetness of these wines generally is a precise choice of each producer, therefore increasing - as a matter of fact - the range of Jerez styles. Jerez wines belonging to the fino category are: Manzanilla, Fino and Amontillado; whereas in the oloroso category there are: Oloroso, Cream and Pedro Ximénez. There is also another style, Palo Cortado, by many considered as a member of the fino family, whereas for others it makes its own category because its characteristics reminds both the ones of fino and oloroso.

• Manzanilla - this style of Jerez, produced at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, is very appreciated for its elegance and finesse. Thanks to the influence of the moist air streams coming from the Atlantic ocean, Manzanilla is dry, characterized by a pleasing salty hint and a taste that could be defined as “sea”. Manzanilla, which belongs to the family of fino, depends on the development of the so called flor, the layer of yeast which forms on the surface of the wine inside the cask. Because of its extreme fragility, many producers bottle the wine only upon order. Manzanilla should be served chilled and an opened bottle can be rarely kept for more than two days
• Fino - with refined and complex aromas, fino has a pale color, strong and dry taste, it is considered the most typical style of Jerez. Even this style depends on the development of flor and it is more robust and strong than Manzanilla. An opened bottle should be consumed within two or three days
• Amontillado - it is a Jerez aged in cask, after having been drawn off from the solera, it is fortified and then kept in a cask where it will be allowed to age without the protection of the flor. In this way the wine will increase its oxidation and its color will get darker, while exalting toasted and nutty aromas. Amontillados have a demi-sec taste because of the adding of a small percentage of Pedro Ximénez and few producers make this wine in the dry style
• Palo Cortado - a pretty rare and sought Jerez style, for its qualities it is often considered as a in-between wine from fino and oloroso. It is a particular style of dry Amontillado which after having aged for a long time, it develops the typical qualities of oloroso, that is higher structure, concentrated and creamy. Palo Cortado reminds aromas of Amontillado, whereas the taste reminds an oloroso
• Oloroso - style of Jerez produced without the development of the flor and therefore strongly exposed to the effects of oxidation which gives a very dark color, toasted and dried fruit aromas. Olorosos have a higher alcohol percentage than finos, typically 18-20%, full body and higher concentration. The trend is a production of sweet or demi-sec Olorosos whereas dry styles are considered a rarity. Sweetness in Olorosos is obtained by adding variable quantities of Pedro Ximénez
• Cream - in the beginning this style of Jerez was created for the English market and they are characterized by a higher sweetness than Olorosos. Sweetness in Creams is obtained by adding high quantities of Pedro Ximénez, variable from producer to producer. Creams are pretty dense with aromas of chocolate, licorice, jams and dried fruit
• Pedro Ximénez - this style of Jerez is exclusively produced with Pedro Ximénez grape, as opposed to the other styles where Palomino is the predominant grape. Pedro Ximénez styles are very dense, syrupy and sweet, robust structure and complex aromas of dried fruit. Pedro Ximénez is generally used for sweetening other Oloroso styles, however they are very appreciated and sold as a style of their own, in particular for being paired to desserts

 Everything begins with the harvest and grapes are sent to the winery in order to start the production of wine. Palomino grape is pressed and the free run juice is fermented in steel or concrete tanks in order to make wine, just like any other white. At this point the producer, for each production batch, will make a decision, that to choose the destination of a wine for the production of fino or oloroso: this phase is called first classification. A choice, apparently simple, which is determined by the organoleptic qualities of the wine while trying to understand its development and its best destination. Wines destined for the production of fino are fortified with alcohol up to 15%, whereas the ones which will become oloroso will be fortified at 18%. Wines are now transferred in casks and allowed to age for their first year. This new wines are called añada, that is wines of the year, or sobretablas. The cask is filled only four fifths of its volume and the bung is not completely sealed. In this way the oxygen will enter the cask while allowing the evolution of wine. Wines which are not considered suited for the production of fino and oloroso, are destined to the production of vinegar of Jerez or distilled in order to obtain alcohol to be used for the fortification or the making of brandy.

 After about one month they have been transferred in a cask, in the surface of wines destined for the production of fino takes place the most important event for their development: the formation of the so called flor, that is the most important factor responsible for the complexity of Jerez fino. It is a spontaneous formation of a layer of microorganisms belonging to the saccharomyces family, which is technically called velo (veil). This precious layer of microorganisms is formed only in presence of particular conditions: the alcoholic percentage in wine must not be higher than 15%, the temperature must be constant between 18° and 22°C (64°-71°F), an optimal surface of contact of the wine with air, usually obtained by filling a 600 liters cask with 500 liters of wine. This microorganisms are fed with some components of the wine therefore changing its composition while shielding it from the effects of oxygen. The flor quickly develops on the surface of the wine and after about one month the wine is completely covered by this thick white layer of microorganisms, however its thickness varies according to the season and humidity.

 The protective action of flor against oxygen is not perfect and this allows the wine to slowly oxidize, while favoring the development of its organoleptic characters and the changes done by the flor. This layer of saccharomyces will be present in Jerez fino for the whole aging cycle and it develops only thanks to the particular climatic condition of the area. Researchers have discovered that in case the flor is moved from the area of Jerez to other places of the world, it rapidly changes its characteristics or dies, a characteristic which makes Jerez fino even more special. Manzanilla is a Jerez fino exclusively produced at Salúcar de Barrameda, a city located in the Atlantic coast. Even the production of Manzanilla depends on the formation of flor, however the fundamental factor is represented by the climate - different from the inland area where Jerez de la Frontera is located - more humid and maritime which gives the wine its character while allowing the flor to constantly cover the surface. Jerez Amontillado is produced by fortifying a fino and to its subsequent aging. The higher percentage of alcohol will not allow the development of the flor and therefore the wine will get a higher structure, color and oxidation. Amontillados that with time develop the typical character of Olorosos will be classified as Palo Cortado.

 The main difference between Jerez fino and oloroso consists in the presence or absence of the flor, the precious veil which is formed on the surface of wine. The flor, just like any other species of yeast, cannot survive in environments in which the alcoholic percentage is greater than 16.4%: for this reason olorosos are being fortified at 18% in order to prevent its formation. Today the production of olorosos is practically forced and not left to the “case” by waiting the natural evolution of the fermented wines. Olorosos are intentionally produced with free run juice and must produced by pressing grapes in order to extract a small quantity of tannins that will give the wine a higher structure. Olorosos usually spend a longer time in the solera y criaderas than finos, in order to give the wine a higher structure and organoleptic complexity which typically reminds dried fruit. At the time of bottling, when it is being drawn off from the solera, the oloroso is a very dry wine. At this point the producer decides whether to leave it “natural” or to sweeten it by adding a small quantity of concentrated Pedro Ximénez juice, as well as Muscatel, therefore obtaining a demi-sec oloroso (abocados). In case the presence of Pedro Ximénez represents about 15%, oloroso is classified as Cream. Jerez Pedro Ximénez is produced by using the homonymous grapes dried under the sun for two or three weeks in order to allow the concentration of sugar. The must of these grapes ferment very slowly and partially and then it is fortified: the result is a thick wine, syrupy and very sweet.

 No matter the style - fino or oloroso - all Jerez wines are aged by using the solera y criaderas method. This method, despite the fact it has been always in use at Jerez, is also used for the production of other fortified wines - such as Marsala - as well as some distillates, such as certain brandies. The system consists in keeping the qualities and character of the wine or the distillate constant over the time; in fact products aged with this system never have the year of the vintage written in the label. The solera y criaderas method is based on the principle the youngest wine is enriched with the character and qualities of the eldest ones. In practical terms, the system consists in a series of casks, each one of them called escala, containing the wine of an average age, and the eldest escala is called solera, because when the escalas are stacked one upon the other, this is the lowest one and in contact with the soil (suelo in Spanish). The escalas above the solera are called criaderas. The number of escalas vary according to the type of Jerez to be made, usually from a number of five to even fourteen. Every year the wine contained in the solera is being drawn off - an operation called saca - and then bottled. The part of the wine drawn off is replaced by the wine of the first criadera, this one with the wine of the second criadera, and so on, up to the last criadera. The wine of the last criadera is replaced by the wines of the sobretablas. The refilling operations are called rocio. The skill of the wineries is to do the saca and rocio operations in small quantities in order not to compromise the quality and the characteristics of the whole system, result of an uninterrupted process of even centuries. According to the law, every year can be drawn off from the solera not more than 30% of its volume.

 Syrah or Shiraz - name with which this grape is known in Australia and South Africa - belongs to the numerous group of the so called “international” grapes and today it is virtually present in every wine country of the world. Thanks to its wide spreading and notoriety, every wine lover as he or she hears talking about Syrah or Shiraz, this brings up to his or her imagination two specific places of the world: Rhône Valley in France and Australia. Syrah is found in other wine country of the world as well - such as California, Italy and South Africa - however the reference areas of this grape are still considered France and Australia, each one of them being identifiable for its particular style. Of course, of the two countries, the one having a longer tradition is the Rhône Valley, whereas in Australia Syrah - or Shiraz, as it is commonly known in the land of kangaroos - has a history shorter than two centuries.

 Syrah is considered one of the most noble grapes, a fact which is clearly confirmed by the best wines produced with this grape. The origin of Syrah is pretty uncertain, however the most recurrent hypothesis support the idea it is from the Middle East. Whether its origins are still uncertain, we can however be certain that Syrah was already cultivated and used for the production of wines in the Rhône Valley since Roman times. In the Rhône Valley are still produced extraordinary wines with Syrah, considered as indisputable reference points for worldwide enology. Names of famous areas in the Rhône Valley such as Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Cornas, bring up the image of excellent wines in every wine lover. Syrah is also known for its typical aroma of black pepper, a characteristic that in this grape - when cultivated with quality standards and in particular areas or climatic conditions - is so evident which is practically impossible not to notice among its rich quantity of aromas.

	A bunch of Syrah (Shiraz)

 The history of Syrah in Australia is more recent and it seems it was introduced in this country by James Busby in 1837 importing some plants of this vine from Montpellier (France). In the beginning the grape was known in Australia with the name Syrah, but it soon became Scyras and then changed into the current Shiraz. With the same name the grape is also known in South Africa. The spreading of Syrah in Australia was pretty rapid and it quickly become the most cultivated vine in New South Wales. Today Shiraz is the most common red berried grape in Australia and in the course of the years, the producers of this country have been successful in creating a pretty personal style which is often more famous than the Syrah produced in the Rhône Valley, the homeland of this grape. The success of Australia Shiraz is such that today most of the wine lovers call this grape with the Australian term instead of the original Syrah.

 The differences between French Syrah and Australian Shiraz are not only determined - of course - by the environmental and climatic diversities of the two places - essential factors however contributing to the personality of a wine - but also to the wine making styles adopted in the two countries. In France, and in particular in the Rhône Valley, Syrah is in most of the cases vinified as a varietal wine, rarely adding Viognier, whereas in Australia this grape, besides being vinified as varietal, is often blended to Cabernet Sauvignon, another famous international grape. It should however be observed that in southern France - and in particular in the Languedoc-Roussillon, Syrah is usually blended to Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut. When it is vinified as a varietal wine, Syrah from the Rhône Valley tends to develop aromas which directly remind black pepper - a characteristic which usually identifies wines produced in this area - and spices in general, whereas in Australia they usually have aromas and flavors of ripe fruit and jam as well as chocolate.

 Despite ampelographers identify Syrah in only one variety, many viticulturists in the Rhône Valley support the hypothesis of the existence of two distinct types, capable of producing wines with different organoleptic qualities. They believe Syrah can be classified in two varieties depending on the size of berries: Petite Syrah, with small berries and considered the best one, and Grosse Syrah, with larger berries and a lesser concentration of phenolic substances. It should be however observed this Petite Syrah, as well as Syrah, has no varietal connection with the Petite Sirah known in North and South America. Syrah is a grape which easily tends to overproduction and in this case, just like Merlot, it makes wines with pale colors and pretty neutral flavors. The production of quality wines with Syrah grape therefore requires very strict cultural standards and, in particular, low yields per hectare.

 Syrah is a relatively late ripening grape, it develops in pretty compact bunches with oblong dark colored berries. It needs a warm climate in order to reach full ripeness, however even in cooler climates, in which grapes do not reach full ripeness, it can produce wines with interesting aromas. Syrah tends to rapidly lose its best qualities when the yields are pretty high and in case it was left in the vine too long, it rapidly lose acidity and aromatic qualities, in particular its typical black peppery aroma. The berries of this grape contain high quantities of pigments and polyphenolic substances - a quality easily recognizable in the color and transparency of its wines - which makes Syrah very suited for the production of wines to be aged in cask for long times. Wines produced with Syrah are pretty longeval and the aging in bottle can also go from a period of 4 years for low quality wines, to 15-18 years for high quality wines.

 Because of the high quantity of pigments, the color of wines produced with Syrah grape is usually pretty dark and intense, with a very reduced transparency. This is true for wines produced with grapes coming from very low yields harvests, whereas when yields are excessive, the color in Syrah wines are pretty pale and the transparency is moderate, just like Merlot. In Syrah produced with quality standards, transparency can even be absent, almost impenetrable to light. Syrah is a pretty longeval wine and, in best cases, it can also stand to more than 15 years. During its youth Syrah will show evident purple nuances, a characteristic which is frequently found after one year of aging when the wine can be considered as “ready”. The evolution is similar to other red wines produced with grapes rich in pigments and even when it can be considered “mature”, Syrah will show an intense and deep ruby red color with nuances of garnet red.

 The aromatic composition of Syrah is pretty rich and, more than other grapes, it is strongly affected by environmental, cultural and climatic conditions. The first distinction should be made for Syrah produced in Europe - and in particular in France - and Syrah produced in the so called “New World”. Syrah wines produced in Europe are usually characterized by more or less accentuated aromas of black pepper, a quality which is attenuated in wines from the New World in which it is common the aroma of ripe fruit and jams. Another characteristic of Syrah is represented by the “wood” factor and by the aging in cask. Syrah wines produced with ripe grapes the impact of typical toasted aromas of wood will be more evident than in those produced with not fully ripe grapes. When it is produced in cool climate areas or with grapes not fully ripe, Syrah develops aromas of black currant, cherry, blueberry, raspberry, violet, mint and white pepper, and very frequently the aroma of green olive as well.

 Wines produced in warm climate areas or with ripe grapes, develop aromas of black berried fruits, such as blackberry, plum, black currant, black cherry and violet as well as its typical aromas of black pepper, licorice and frequently hints of smoky. To these aromas are also included the ones of the same fruit jams. With time Syrah - a wine which has interesting potentialities of aging in bottle and of organoleptic evolution - develop pretty complex aromas in which will be perceived clear jammy aromas that will then evolve as game, leather, coffee, burnt rubber, caramelized sugar, raisin and tar.

 Even for taste, just like for aromas, it is necessary to make distinctions among Syrah wines produced in the Rhône Valley, Syrah made in Europe and those produced in Australia and in the New World. The French style of the Rhône Valley favors the production of elegant and refined Syrah, robust, with round flavors and less tannic. In Australia is favored a denser style, full bodied, concentrated and rich. In the rest of Europe can be found styles that could be defined as in-between, inspired to one or the other category. Syrah is a grape with a moderate quantity of acid, however in certain cases it can be clearly perceivable. The most common production style favors alcoholic percentages from moderate to high, even 14-15%. Its content in polyphenols is pretty high and therefore astringency will be a predominant factor in wines produced with this grape. Despite the aging in cask will contribute to smooth the astringency of Syrah, this organoleptic quality will however be a primary characteristic for this grape.

 The northern part of the Rhône Valley, in France, remains one of the indisputable reference points for the production of wines made with Syrah grape. The best examples of varietal Syrah, no matter a small percentage of Viognier is allowed, are the ones produced with the appellations Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. Wines produced in these areas have pretty strong fruit aromas, a good acidity, dry and are characterized by the typical aroma of black pepper as well as an appreciable mineral taste. Hermitage has a deep color and intense fruit aromas, in particular black currant, full body and evident astringency. Côte-Rôtie generally has a paler color, more complex aromas which can also remind smoky and a less tannic flavor. Quality Cornas - very rare to find - have deep colors, a strong aroma of black pepper and a tannic flavors. Crozes-Hermitage and St-Joseph wines represent lighter versions but however interesting. Syrah is also common in the southern part of Rhône Valley and it is used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines and in other wines of this area, and as frequently happens in wines produced in south France, it is blended with other grapes. In Italy Syrah is pretty common and good results have been produced both in Tuscany and Sicily. In Switzerland it is interesting the Syrah produced in the Valais area and in Spain the one produced in the Toledo area.

 In the so called “New World”, Australia is the most renowned representative for wines produced with Syrah, or Shiraz, as it is known in this country. Here the style is denser, richer and more concentrated as opposed to the styles made in Europe. Examples of reference Syrah wines produced in Australia mainly come from the southern part and in particular from the areas of McLaren Vale, Barossa and Coonawarra. The styles of these three areas are pretty distinctive: Syrah wines from McLaren Vale are very dense and concentrated; the ones from Barossa are pretty similar although adding a touch of elegance to concentration; those from Coonawarra, because of a cooler climate, develop aromas of mint and black pepper. Other interesting areas in Australia in which it is produced Shiraz are the Victoria (Yarra Valley, Grampians and Pyrenees), New South Wales (Hunter Valley, Mudgee) as well as some areas in Western Australia. In California the Syrah is not very common, however it is catching the attention of many producers. The most interesting example of California are from the coolest areas of Edna, Santa Ynez, Santa Maria Valleys, Carneros and Mendocino. Other areas in which are being produced wines with Syrah grape include South Africa - here known as Shiraz - Washington state, Chile, Argentina and New Zealand.

 Everything began more than two hundreds years ago, when an English businessman whose name is now history - John Woodhouse, son of a merchant of Liverpool - who in 1773 was forced, because of a storm, to land with his ship Elizabeth in the port of Marsala. In that occasion the young John Woodhouse drunk the wine which was produced in the area and he realized it had many similarities with other renowned and appreciated wines of those times: Jerez (Sherry), Madeira and Port. He understood he could make profits from the trading of that wine and he decided to send to his homeland England fifty pipes of 4 hectoliters each. Before shipping the wine, Woodhouse added some alcohol to the wine in order to make it more resistant to the stress of the journey and he stayed in Marsala waiting for the result. Like he predicted, the wine was successful and John Woodhouse started a profitable production of this wine and therefore writing his name in the pages of Italian enology's history. After his success, some Italian families began the production of Marsala wine, among them - and among the most important ones for the history and development of this great wine - there is Carlo Pellegrino.

The Nave Punica hall in the historical cellars at Marsala

 Carlo Pellegrino was established in 1880 at Marsala by Paolo Pellegrino, notary and viticulturist. It was the beginning of the enterprise which led the winery to become nowadays successful worldwide with its wines. Paolo Pellegrino, with the help of his son Carlo - notary and agronomist - was successful in transforming the winery, established as a family business, and in few years become one of the most flourishing wine industries of Marsala. When his father passed away, Carlo took his place and with the help of his wife Josephine Despagne, a French gentlewoman daughter of wine maker Oscar Pierre Despagne, who brought to the winery the experience and knowledge of her family which was from Sauternes. The winery continued its expansion even in the next generations and Paolo Pellegrino, son of Carlo and Josephine, become the winery's director of management and with the help of his brother-in-law Vincenzo Alagna, they were successful in marketing their wines in the most important countries of the world. The production headquarter was expanded and in the 1930's the area occupied by the winery was increased threefold.

 Today Carlo Pellegrino owns three operational units, including the historical cellar in Marsala, with a total capacity of 200,000 hectoliters (of which 40,000 in oak casks), a second vinification cellar, in contrada Cardilla, downtown Marsala, with a capacity of 7,000 hectoliters. In 1992 Carlo Pellegrino winery has established a third cellar in Pantelleria island, equipped with the most modern technologies for wine making, and that allowed the revaluation of the famous wines Moscato and Passito di Pantelleria. This wines expand the production range besides the historical Marsala wines and interesting table wines produced with the “Duca di Castelmonte” branding. In the course of its history, from 1880 up to nowadays, Carlo Pellegrino winery has experienced a continuous growth up to becoming one of the most important wine industries of Sicily, not only for the production and commercialization of Marsala, but also for Pantelleria and table wines, both DOC and IGT. The winery has today 66 employees and produces more than 7,000,000 bottles per year, with an income that in 2003 reached 19 millions euros. Among the main foreign countries in which Carlo Pellegrino is present there is Great Britain, Switzerland, France, Germany, Canada, United States of America, Japan and South Korea.

	The winery of Pantelleria at contrada Kuddie Rosse

 As for production, Marsala wines represent 24% of total income, Pantelleria wines 20%, table wines 39%, whereas the remaining 17% is represented by Sicilian sweet wines: Zibibbo, Malvasia and Moscato liquoroso IGT. The winery systems for quality management and environmental management are respectively certified as ISO 9001/2000 and ISO 14001. The family farms occupy an area of more than 300 hectares (740 acres) in the area of Gazzerotta, Kelbi, Ramisella, Rinazzo and San Nicola “Gorghi Tondi”. Located in the most suited areas of western Sicily, these areas represent a huge richness of soils, microclimates and varieties of cultivated vines. Rinazzo is the territory in which is cultivated the Syrah grape, its soil is dry and clayey, and thanks to its particular climatic conditions, it is very suited for the cultivation of this variety. The “San Nicola” farm is located in the neighboring of Mazara del Vallo, and occupies an area of 115 hectares (280 acres), part of them being in the WWF park “Gorghi Tondi”. Its soil is made of clay and, thanks to its ideal microclimate, the area is particularly suited for Grillo and Chardonnay grapes used for the production of Gorgo Tondo Bianco wine, and for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d'Avola grapes used for the production of Gorgo Tondo Rosso.

 The “Gazzerotta” farm, which occupies an area of about 90 hectares (220 acres) in the territory of Mazara del Vallo, is located in a territory which is included in the Delia Nivolelli DOC, one of the 19 denominations of controlled origin in Sicily. Today, in the 78 hectares (190 acres) at Gazzerotta are being successfully cultivated autochthonous and international grapes, such as Nero d'Avola, Inzolia, Grillo, Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and Malvasia Bianca, as well as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Carlo Pellegrino owns a modern winery in the Pantelleria island - in contrada Kuddie Rosse - in which they invested huge resources for the revaluation and the production of the famous Moscato and Passito di Pantelleria, one of the many wines who made Sicily renowned. The main winery is located in Marsala and occupies an area of about 30,000 square meters (about 7,5 acres), has an aging capacity of 200,000 hectoliters and a modern bottling line capable of producing an average of 10,500 bottles per hour.

 The production of this historical winery is divided into two brands: Carlo Pellegrino and Duca di Castelmonte. The Carlo Pellegrino branding is used for the renowned Marsala, sweet Sicilian IGT wines and Pantelleria DOC. The Duca di Castelmonte branding is used for all table wines as well as for sweet and fortified wines. The range of Marsala produced by Carlo Pellegrino is pretty vast and interesting. The range begins with Marsala fine - also available in the “Ruby” style - three Marsala Superiore (Dry, Garibaldi Dolce and Oro), Marsala Vergine Soleras and the interesting Marsala Vergine Vintage 1980 - exclusively produced with Grillo grape - rich of complex and strong aromas, result of more than 20 years of aging in oak casks: a wonderful Marsala perfect as a “meditation” wine and that could be served in place of a distillate. As for wines of Duca di Castelmonte branding are to be mentioned, among the many, the new and interesting red wine Tripudium, produced with Nero d'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, the very good Passito di Pantelleria NES, and the enchanting grappa Moscato Passito di Pantelleria, reviewed in the “Aquavitae” column.