It would be hard to believe, nevertheless in the world of wine that little element which is put on the top of a bottle - and having the function of sealing it - has a fundamental and strategical importance, last but not the least, cultural and traditional as well. There are so many arguments going on around that simple cork cylinder - or of any other material - most of the times giving less importance to what should be considered no matter the type of seal which is put in the bottle. Nevertheless, even though we all do not fully realize this, that seal often conditions our acceptance towards that wine which the seal should protect from the external dangers: in case the cork meets the expectations of consumer, it is more likely the wine contained in the bottle will be considered of higher quality as well. How can it be a little cylinder made of cork or of any other material - the closure - is capable of influencing the prejudice and the acceptability of wine in such an important way?

 According to the opinion of many consumers, it seems the cork plays an important role in the acceptability of a wine, according to producers, its role would be less important. By trying to be objective, without being influenced by cultural and prejudicial factors, we believe producers are right. We do not think it is enough closing a bottle with a high quality cork closure to make a wine better. In other words, a cork does not make a wine. Cork undoubtedly has fundamental importance in those wines destined for long aging periods in bottle, in which the essential exchange of air from the inside of the bottle to the outside is ensured by the characteristics of natural cork. The same is not so important in those wines destined to an immediate consumption, as the aging in bottle, not only is not recommended, it also worsen the organoleptic qualities of the wine. Moreover, whenever it is possible, it is always better to see a bottle with a good synthetic cork instead of a bad natural cork.

 According to the point of view of producers, it is absolutely essential a wine reaches the glass of consumers in the same condition it left the winery, with all of its organoleptic qualities being unaltered and unspoiled. In this sense, it certainly is not the cork the only factor allowing the achievement of this goal: a wrong service temperature, wrong glass, bad keeping of wine, are all elements equally important playing a fundamental role in the appreciation of a wine. This includes the cork as well, of course. In fact, it is enough the cork is faulty, both because it has been damaged by the effects of tricloroanisole - also known as TCA or corky smell - as well as because of an insufficient tightness, the wine, even in the most appropriate serving conditions and keeping, does not express its best qualities. If it is true consumers have accepted with no problems the introduction of the most innovative technologies in the production of wine - while recognizing their fundamental role in the production of quality wines - the technological progresses made by the closure industry seem to have a lesser acceptability.

 If we consider the now very common statistical figures which everyone knows, 4-5% of wine bottles are damaged by the effects of the trichloroanisole spoilage in natural cork closures, with the consequence of the well known and disgusting corky smell. Moreover, to these figures must be added about a 10% of wines that, because of an insufficient tightness of natural cork closures, get prematurely oxidized therefore damaging the wine. If we consider these figures, the loss because of accidental factors caused by corks is not irrelevant. This does mean in a production of 100,000 bottles, there is a loss of more than 10,000 bottles of wine. This loss, undoubtedly, also affects the price of wine: it is evident this loss represents an increasing in costs for producers. The solutions proposed to these kind of problems include the well known synthetic corks - which are not completely accepted by consumers yet - as well as the most recent introduction of screwcaps, used since a long time in ordinary and bulk wines, soda pops and mineral waters.

 If it is true synthetic corks suffer from a strong resistance by consumers, for most of them screwcaps are even considered unacceptable. The results of studies about this subject, ensure these kind of closures allow a better keeping of the freshness and the integrity of aromas and flavors of wines in which are being used: a factor that should grant them a better acceptability and preference. However it is undeniable the better tightness of these corks accelerates reductive processes, and in just 18 months the quality of wines is seriously compromised. This latter consideration should suggest not using synthetic corks or screwcaps in wines destined to long aging in bottle. This is what producers know as well and - in fact - they make use of synthetic corks and screwcaps in wines destined to an immediate consumption, such as whites, roses and young reds. It is not an economic matter only: it is undeniable it is the primary interest of producers to ensure their products the best consumption conditions possible. This should be the interest of consumers as well.

 Nevertheless the closure is still a complex and delicate subject, which irritates consumers when they see a bottle sealed with a synthetic cork. It is such a delicate subject which could make one thinks the wine contained in the bottle is less important and it seems to be the cork what it is being poured in glasses. Of course, it is also something associated to tradition and culture. Anyway, does it really make sense - in the sake of tradition - allowing the spoilage of a wine when it can be avoided? It is also true a screwcap deprives the consumers of the enjoyable ceremony of the opening of a bottle made of corkscrews and cares: a simple and quick movement and the wine is ready to be poured in a glass. Anyway, this is a cultural barrier very hard to change. Despite the efforts of producers in having these closures accepted, many consumers still have the prejudice synthetic corks and screwcaps are used in low quality wines. A cultural change hard to achieve, saved the case consumers will begin to pay more attention to what it is being poured in their glasses instead of paying attention to what they see in a bottle. After all, the attention paid to the cork is limited to the time in which the bottle is being uncorked: the pleasure of the appreciation of a wine has a truly longer time, no matter the closure is made from natural cork or any other synthetic material.

 In this column are published our reader's mail. If you have any comment or any question or just want to express your opinion about wine, send your letters to our editorial or fill in the form available at our site.

 According a wine making point of view, Loire Valley is one of the most interesting wine regions in France. Besides being extended on a pretty wide territory with different environmental characteristics - Loire Valley is among the largest wine regions in France - here are being produced many wine styles, from whites to reds, from roses to sparkling wines as well as sweet wines. Loire Valley is mainly known in the world for the production of white wines, and in particular the ones produced with Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc grapes, however the production of red wines is interesting as well, in particular the ones from Cabernet Franc and Gamay grapes. Loire Valley is also renowned for another white wine, produced in the western area of the region, around the city of Nantes: Muscadet. This wine - usually appreciated for the matchings with crustaceans - represents the main production in terms of quantity and it is produced with Melon de Bourgogne grape, here known as Muscadet.

 The territory of this wine region goes along the course of Loire river, the longest in France. The first wine area of Loire Valley is located in the beginning of the river - west from Burgundy - and going towards north, still along the course of the river and near the city of Orléans, are found other wine areas, pretty distant one from another. When the course of the river arrives near the cities of Nevers and Bourges, then arriving to the city of Orléans, where it angles towards west and continues its course towards the Atlantic ocean, begins the most important wine area of Loire Valley, the area from which comes the most important wines of the region. It is right in these areas - proceeding to the western part near the Atlantic ocean - are being produced the most important wines of Loire Valley such as Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Vouvray, Savennières, Quarts de Chaume, Montlouis, Chinon, Bourgueil, Menetou-Salon and Muscadet. The wines of Loire Valley - as opposed to other French wine regions - are distinguished for the variety with which are being produced: whites, roses, reds, sweets and sparkling wines, these all are wine styles which can be found in the areas of this region.

Loire Valley

 Despite the wine styles produced in the Loire Valley are many, the region is however particularly associated to whites, certainly the most famous style in the world also thanks to the quality of the territory and of the grapes used for their production: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne. Of the three, Sauvignon Blanc certainly represents the celebrity of Loire Valley: the wines produced with this grape in this region are usually considered the reference model in all the wine areas of the world in which the grape is cultivated. In recent times Muscadet is being revaluated as well - the famous white wine produced with Melon de Bourgogne grape in the area near Nantes and the Atlantic coast - which represents, in terms of quantity, the most produced wine in the Loire Valley. The region's climate is pretty cool and the temperature often reaches pretty low values, almost to the limit of surviving for vines. In warm years, when the bunches of grapes receive a better exposure to sun rays, wines of this region can express their best condition, also thanks to the low temperatures ensuring their typical acidity.

 Because of the particularly rigid climate, in the years in which cold temperature and rains are frequent, the quantity of sugar in berries is particularly low and therefore wines have little alcohol and little body. For this reason, in these years producers of Loire Valley are allowed to add sugar to the must in order to increase the production of alcohol as well as to give more body to the wine. Chaptalization - despite it is frequently practiced in the northern and cool areas of France - is usually done in low quality and value wines, whereas serious and reliable producers hardly make use of this method saved in exceptional cases and in particularly bad years. Despite wines from Loire Valley are usually characterized by acidity and freshness of grape's aromas, since about twenty years it is getting more and more common the practice of fermenting and aging white wines in barriques, with the result of making more robust wines and with evident toasted qualities, very different from what can be considered the classic style of the region. The main white berried grapes of the Loire Valley include Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Arbois, Chardonnay and Folle Blanche. Among red berried grapes are included Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec (here known as Côt), Pineau d'Aunis and Pinot Meunier.

 Loire Valley is among the largest wine areas of France and it is recognized by the French quality system as AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, Appellation of Guaranteed Origin). According to a wine making point of view, the most important area in Loire Valley is the northern one, ideally divided into three areas. In the western part, near the Atlantic coast and around the city of Nantes, is found the production area of Muscadet, in the middle part are found the areas of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, whereas in the eastern part, south from the city of Orléans, are located the production areas of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Whereas the production in the two external areas is oriented to white wines, in the middle part the production is very rich and makes different styles, from whites to reds, from roses to sparkling wines as well as sweet wines of rare elegance produced with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea. In the southern part, the one located west from Bourgogne, the production is about white, roses and red wines. Finally, in the Loire Valley is found a large production area of Vin de Pays - among the largest in France - and classified with the Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France appellation.

 The areas south from Orléans, up to the cities of Bourges and Nevers, are called “central vineyards”. The reason of this name is not because the area is located at the center of Loire Valley, but at the center of France. The main grape in the vineyards in this region is Sauvignon Blanc with which are produced among the best wines of the world and in particular in the appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, considered as the reference model in other production areas. Sauvignon Blanc wines from this region express organoleptic characteristics like in no other part of the world, with aromas of flint, vegetal as well as smokey, a quality which determined the name with which Sauvignon Blanc is usually known in these lands: Blanc Fumé. In this area Sauvignon Blanc - also thanks to a particularly cool climate - expresses a pretty high acidity which contributes to the finesse and elegance of these wines. Despite the grape is used for the production of white wines in the whole region, the best Sauvignon Blanc examples are represented by Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.

 Sancerre is located in the western bank of the Loire river and the production of wines is extremely interesting. In the Sancerre area are found very good vineyards - with soils made of chalk and flint sediments - and the best ones are Le Grand Chemarin, Chêne Marchand and Clos de la Poussie. In the eastern bank of Loire river is found the city of Pouilly-sur-Loire, renowned for the production of Pouilly-Fumé. Soils in this area are rich in limestone, a characteristic believed to be responsible for the strong smokey aroma of the wines produced here. The enological techniques used in this region favor the keeping of freshness in wines, therefore the traditional method consists in the vinification in inert containers, such as cement and stainless steel. In the 1980's some producers introduced the use of barrique in order to increase the complexity and the body of wines, therefore obtaining results appreciated by many as well as disliked by others because too distant from what it is being considered the classic model of Loire Valley. Other production areas of this region include Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly, all being oriented to the production of white wines with Sauvignon Blanc. The only area in which are being produced red and roses wines is Sancerre in which are exclusively used Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes.

 Going towards west, is found the wine area of Touraine in which are being produced white and red wines. The climate of this area offers good conditions for the cultivation of red grapes that in Touraine means Cabernet Franc. The most renowned areas for the production of red wines are Chinon, Bourgueil and St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Red wines from Touraine are generally produced with 100% Cabernet Franc or Gamay, however in many cases are also used Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec (Côt), Pineau d'Aunis and Grolleau. The most renowned white wines in Touraine are the ones belonging to the Vouvray appellation. Here it is Chenin Blanc to play the main role in vineyards and the white wines of this area are exclusively produced with this grape. Another interesting appellation - although less known than Vouvray - is Montlouis, whose wines are being produced with Chenin Blanc only. Wines from Vouvray represent the highest expression of Chenin Blanc produced in many styles, from dry to sweet made with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea, as well as sparkling wines. The climate of Vouvray is pretty cool and this allows to keep a pretty high level of acidity in grapes as well as giving a very good balance in sweet wines that, with a proper aging, get extraordinary organoleptic qualities.

 The wine area of Anjou-Saumur is among the most interesting ones of the Loire Valley for the variety of styles. Here the production is virtually about every style, including sparkling and sweet wines. In this area are mainly produced rose wines, however white is the most known style, in particular the wines belonging to the Savennières appellation. Here, as well as in Touraine, the white grape protagonist in vineyards is Chenin Blanc, with which are probably produced the best expression of wines in the world. Thanks to the particular environmental and climate conditions, here Chenin Blanc is capable of giving wines with a pleasing minerality, freshness and complex aromas like in no other place of the world and it can also stand to tens of years of aging in bottle. Anjou-Saumur is also a famous area for the production of sweet wines, that in favorable years, thanks to the development of Botrytis Cinerea or noble rot, reaches superlative levels of elegance. Once again, the grape responsible for the production of these wonderful wines is Chenin Blanc.

 The best sweet wines of Anjou-Saumur are from the appellation of Quarts de Chaume, a pretty small area however capable of producing extraordinary wines. The secret of these wines is represented by acidity that reaches levels such to perfectly balance sweetness, to which is also added the complexity of aromas and tastes provided by Botrytis Cinerea. Other excellent sweet wines in this area are from Bonnezeaux, Coteaux de Layon and Coteaux de l'Aubance appellations. One of the main wines produced in this area is Rosé d'Anjou, mainly produced with Grolleau grape to which is often added Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon Côt (Malbec), Pineau d'Aunis and Gamay. Simple wines and basically sweet, as opposed to Rosé de Loire - produced with the same grapes - which is always dry. Red wines in this area are mainly produced with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay, alone or assembled. The Anjou-Saumur area is also famous for the production of sparkling wines. The best examples are produced in the Saumur area, all being obtained with classic method and belonging to the appellations of Saumur and Crémant de Loire. The appellation of Saumur can be produced with Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc grapes, whereas Crémant de Loire is mainly produced with Chenin Blanc and a part of Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. Despite producers rarely use them, these sparkling wines can also be produced with Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt (Malbec), Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pineau d'Aunis and Grolleau grapes.

 A not very known wine but however representing the main production in terms of quantity in the Loire Valley. Muscadet is produced in the large area around Nantes, not very distant from the Atlantic coats. Muscadet is a relatively simple wine and produced with Melon de Bourgogne grape, locally called Muscadet. The best examples of this wine come from the Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine area, a district which is named after the two homonymous rivers of the area. Muscadet generally is a simple and immediate wine, famous for the matchings with crustaceans and seafood. In order to increase the complexity and structure of this wine, in the 1970's and 1980's many producers began aging Muscadet sur lie - that is on its lees and yeast - a practice which, in fact, makes the wine more interesting. Today are usually produced both styles, however the most common is sur lie, generally written in the label. The fermentation of Muscadet is generally done in steel tanks, however some producers also make use of casks with different sizes even for aging. Finally, in the same production area of Muscadet, is also produced Gros Plant, a light bodied wine obtained with Folle Blanche grape.

 Studying the organoleptic qualities of wines and of grapes by using a comparative tastings is extremely useful for the development of any taster's skills. An useful exercise for the wine lover who is getting into the amazing world of sensorial analysis, is the study of aromatic grapes. The capacity of recognizing the typical qualities defining the so called aromatic grapes, allows the taster to learn the differences from non aromatic grapes, therefore making simpler their recognition in wines. The tasting we are proposing our readers this month has the goal of studying two aromatic grapes - Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc - by comparing them with a non aromatic grape - Chardonnay - in order to understand the differences and qualities defining an aromatic grape. Of all the three grapes, the only one which can be really considered aromatic is Gewürztraminer, whereas Sauvignon Blanc - despite the fact it has a strong aromatic quality - is considered as semi aromatic, and Chardonnay belongs to the family of non aromatic grapes.

 The choice of these three grapes was made according to the different families to which they belong to, in order to clearly understand their olfactory qualities by comparing the aromatic intensities of the three grapes. Before beginning our tasting, it is good to remember the meaning of aromatic grape. Despite all grapes have their own aromas, are being considered as aromatic only those grapes whose wines are characterized by a strong and evident aroma of grape. For this reason Muscat Blanc is considered an aromatic grape - the grapey aroma in its wine is very strong - whereas Trebbiano Toscano is not. In wines made with Trebbiano Toscano will be found other aromas, but the one of grape will not certainly be present, and other aromas defined as primary will be absent as well. The first goal of this tasting is to understand this aroma and to recognize its presence, or absence, in all the three wines.

 The three wines we will be using in this comparative tasting are being produced with the three grapes only, that is are mono varietal wines. In order to better understand the qualities of the grapes, the wines we have chosen have been fermented and aged in inert containers, in this case steel tanks. The choice of three wines fermented or aged in cask - or barrique - would have not been appropriate for the goal of our tasting as the aromas passed from wood to the wine would have covered in a more or less evident way the natural qualities of grapes. Moreover, it is appropriate to remember the area of origin of the three wines will play a role in the organoleptic perception, and the same is true for the enological practices used in the production. In case it is not possible to use the three wines we are suggesting, you can alternatively choose wines produced with the same grapes, possibly from the same areas and - in particular - vinified in inert containers, such as steel or cement.

	The wines of our comparative tasting

 The first wine, the one we will use as the main reference point for understanding the primary aroma of grape, is Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kleinstein. An excellent Gewürztraminer wine that, besides having the typical aroma of grape, has also an excellent number of aromas typical of this variety. The second wine is Scubla's Colli Orientali del Friuli Sauvignon, a wine that, besides having the primary aroma of this grape, will also allow the study of the typical vegetal characteristic of this variety. The third wine we have chosen for the tasting is Casale del Giglio's Chardonnay, interesting for its organoleptic qualities of tropical fruit and that will be compared with the ones of the other wines. In this third wine, the primary aroma of the grape will not be found and therefore, thanks to comparison, it will allow us to better recognize this aroma in the other two wines. As for vintages, it will be chosen - for all the three wines - the most recent one. The tasting will be done by pouring the wine in three ISO tasting glasses and served at a temperature of 10° C (50° F).

 Poured in the glasses, the three wines will look very different one from another. The aspect of all the three wines is crystalline and very transparent - just like we would expect from any white wine - whereas the color offers many possibilities for comparison and study. The three samples show very different colors and nuances. Of the three wines, the one showing a paler color will be Sauvignon Blanc and it is right this wine the first one we are going to analyze. The color of this wine is intense greenish yellow and - by tilting the glass over a white surface - we will notice, on the edge of the liquid mass towards the opening, nuances of greenish yellow. The first element we get from observing this aspect is that Sauvignon Blanc wines fermented and aged in inert containers - steel or cement tanks - do not have intense colors: a quality which is absolutely correspondent to the type and that we can see in this wine from Scubla.

 The next wine we are going to analyze is Casale del Giglio's Chardonnay. As opposed to Sauvignon Blanc, the hue of this wine shows a straw yellow color and, by tilting the glass, it will be noticed greenish yellow nuances on the edge, similar to Sauvignon Blanc's color. Even in this case the color is perfectly correspondent to the production style and to the type of containers used for vinification. Finally, let's observe the color of Produttori Bolzano's Gewürztraminer Kleinstein: the color has more intense and stronger hues and the nuances are more deep with a straw yellow color. Even in this case the color is perfectly correspondent to wines produced with Gewürztraminer and that in many cases - according to the territory and to the meteorological conditions - it can also show deep golden colors. It this examination it is better to compare the three glasses by placing them against a white surface and by observing the color variations according to the type of grape. Sauvignon Blanc gives wines with paler color, Chardonnay gives colors of average intensity, whereas Gewürztraminer produces wines with more intense colors.

 The olfactory analysis of the three wines is the most interesting examination and offers the best opportunities for our study. The first wine we are going to analyze is Gewürztraminer. We will try to understand and identify - first of all - the strong aroma of grape, typical in aromatic grapes and that in Gewürztraminer is very strong. In this phase it is best not to swirl the glass in order not to have all the other aromas develop and that would represent a “disturbing” factor. Without swirling the glass, slowly smell the wine: the aroma having the stronger intensity and that will be perceived to the nose will be the one of grape, that is the quality defining Gewürztraminer as aromatic. Then smell again the wine - even by swirling the glass - in order to memorize this aroma. After a short pause, we will analyze the Sauvignon Blanc: it will be noticed, among other aromas, that in this wine is present - even though with a weaker intensity - the aroma of grape already perceived in Gewürztraminer. After a short pause, it will be done the olfactory analysis of Chardonnay: in this wine the aroma of grape will be absent.

 The three grapes we are using in our examination also offer other opportunity for study thanks to their aromatic analogies and differences. If we consider their aromas as a whole, the three wines offer three completely different aromatic bouquets. Gewürztraminer, besides its strong grape aroma, is also rich in fruit, floral and even spicy aromas. It is not by chance - of course - that gewürz in German means spicy. Sauvignon Blanc has a completely different nature: here strong aromas of vegetal essences are melt with perceptions of fruits and flowers. Chardonnay - which we will be basically using as a “contrast” grape - offers aromas of fruits, even tropical fruits, and flowers. Let's concentrate our attention on tropical fruit aromas, present in all the three wines. Gewürztraminer has aromas of litchi, pineapple and grapefruit, Sauvignon Blanc will reveal aromas of banana and litchi, whereas Chardonnay will develop aromas of banana and litchi. Compare the three wines while trying to identify the aromas of tropical fruits and the different intensities and nuances in every sample.

 Sauvignon Blanc offers good elements of study which are completely absent in the other two wines. Among the many and pleasing aromas, in the Sauvignon Blanc it is possible to perceive a strong aroma of bell pepper and tomato leaf, aromatic qualities which are absent in the other two wines. These aromas represent - as a matter of fact - identifying qualities for many Sauvignon Blanc wines, in particular the ones produced in cool climate areas or with not completely ripe grapes. Even the aromatic series of flowers is interesting: in Gewürztraminer will be perceived a pleasing aroma of rose - typical in this grape - as well as hints of elder flowers. Even in Sauvignon Blanc will be found the aroma of elder flower, here being more intense, that will be absent in Chardonnay, where they will be found aromas of acacia and hawthorn. Finally, it is interesting to pay attention on peach, apple and pear aromas, common in all the three wines. It is good to remember the peach aroma is frequently present in all aromatic and semi aromatic grapes. Whether Sauvignon Blanc can be recognized for its vegetal quality, Gewürztraminer can be identified - besides the primary aroma of grape - for its pleasing aromas recalling spices and aromatic herbs, such as star anise and sage.

 The goal of this examination is to compare the gustatory sensations of the three wines and - in particular - the differences among structures. The first wine we are going to analyze is Chardonnay: despite it has a higher structure than Sauvignon Blanc, in this specific case it is appropriate to consider the intensity and the variety of aromas as well as the alcoholic volume. Taste a sip of Chardonnay: the first sensation perceived in the mouth is its pleasing crispness, a quality which is also determined by its young age. Let's now pay attention on the wine's structure: a good method is to have the tongue sliding on the palate and to evaluate friction; the lesser the friction - therefore the easier the tongue will slide - the greater the presence of solid substances and therefore the greater the structure. Consider, as an example, the sensations caused by water and milk: with water the friction is pretty high, whereas with milk is low. The structure of this wine is to be considered average with a good roundness and flavors are pretty intense; it will be noticed a good correspondence to the aromas already perceived to the nose, in particular banana, peach and pear.

 Let's taste now Sauvignon Blanc: the friction of the tongue is higher, a condition caused by a lesser structure, a typical quality in this grape. On the contrary, it will be noticed a higher crispness and a higher intensity of flavors: even in this case, these are typical organoleptic qualities of Sauvignon Blanc. There will be perceived strong flavors of peach, pear and litchi. Then it will be tasted Gewürztraminer: in this case the structure is higher and it will also be noticed a higher burning sensation of alcohol while noticing a good acidity as well. Even in this case these are typical qualities of Gewürztraminer, a grape rich in sugar and therefore capable of producing higher quantities of alcohol as well as higher structures. During the tasting of Gewürztraminer it could be perceived a certain sweetness: this is a false perception which is determined by its high roundness - or smoothness - that will make the wine taste sweet or basically sweet; indeed the wine is absolutely dry. There will be noticed very intense flavors corresponding to the nose, in particular flavors of grape, peach, litchi and pear.

 The taste-olfactory persistence in the wines will be different in all the three cases and with different intensities. Chardonnay will be the wine having the shortest persistence, whereas Gewürztraminer will have the longest persistence. It is good to remember aromatic grapes, when vinified with quality criteria, generally have very long taste-olfactory persistence. The flavors of Chardonnay in the mouth will be of banana, peach and pear, whereas Sauvignon Blanc will have flavors of peach, pear and litchi as well as hints of grape. In Gewürztraminer the flavor of grape will be pretty strong and long which will be fused with the ones of peach, pear and litchi: an interesting analogy with Sauvignon Blanc. Whereas it is possible to find some organoleptic analogies between Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay - the wine used as a contrast element - will have pretty different organoleptic qualities, in which the typical characteristics of aromatic grapes will be absent. The only exception is represented by the aroma of peach which, it should be remembered, is not always found in Chardonnay wines vinified in inert containers.

 The view of Umbria - the green heart of Italy - with its uninterrupted scenario of hills, offers among the most evocative and placid territories of Italy. Since ever these hills - as far as the memory and the history of man can recall - have always been characterized by vineyards and olive trees, two fundamental elements of the enogastronomical culture and tradition of Umbria. Besides being remembered as a “land of saints and heroes”, Umbria is also a land of olive oil and wine, as it was usually mentioned by authors of the past since ancient Roman times. Also famous were the grapes cultivated in Umbria and with which were produced wine: among the many, Pliny the Elder praised the Itriola grape, typical of the ancient Mevania - name with which the ancient Romans called the modern city of Bevagna, between Foligno and Montefalco - therefore proving at those times the wine of these places was famous for its quality.

A top view of Adanti winery

 Right in the hills near Bevagna, an enchanting town of long medieval traditions and included in the production area of Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, is located Adanti winery, which in its more than thirty years of history has been capable of representing a solid reference point in the production and development of this famous Umbrian wine. The headquarter of the winery is located in the hill of Arquata, Colcimino and Torre del Colle, famous since ancient times for the quality and finesse of their wines and olive oils. The history of this important Umbrian winery - still today considered a reference point for the production of Sagrantino di Montefalco - began in 1974, when Domenico and Pietro Adanti brothers founded their wine business. The headquarter of the winery was built by recovering and restoring an ancient convent belonged to the congregation of Filippini monks, built on the rests dated back to Roman times and to the late Renaissance.

 Those were times in which Sagrantino grape was vinified according to the traditions of this area, by allowing the grapes to dry on mats - a very common practice used in the whole territory of Umbria - which was then vinified in order to obtain a tannic and sweet wine, traditionally consumed in the Easter period and during holidays. That was also the period in which sweet wines did not meet the favor of consumers and Sagrantino - because of its traditional vinification - was probably destined to disappear while leaving its place in vineyards to other and more famous grapes. Some producers of the area began to produce dry versions of wines by using Sagrantino grape, however the result was pretty tannic and astringent, with organoleptic qualities that, with time, got flavors of almonds. It should be remembered Sagrantino grape has a content in polyphenols among the highest known in any grapes, even higher than Nebbiolo.

	A view of Adanti's vineyards

 Among these producers was also the winery of Adanti brothers that, later, will introduce new ways to think about dry Sagrantino and about its production. Around the end of 1970's, Domenico Adanti hired as a cellar master Mr. Alvaro Palini - who after having spent a long time in the fashion field and after having worked in Italy and in France - gets into the world of wine while revolutionizing the way of thinking and producing Sagrantino. Alvaro Palini - a coy, tenacious and determined man with clear ideas - understands the secret of Sagrantino grape consisted in radically changing the way that “rough” wine was produced and the change needed to begin in the vineyard. He decided to lower yields in vineyards, he changed the vinification and aging techniques in order to obtain a better balance in the fruity character of the grape, tannins and acid. He also decided to have the wine slowly aging in oak casks and to continue the aging in bottle: changes which will make the future of the production of dry Sagrantino and of its success.

 The changes introduced by Alvaro Palini allowed Adanti winery to reach remarkable successes in a short time, therefore becoming the reference model for dry Sagrantino, as well as for the traditional Passito style. The first great success arrived with vintage 1985, a wine that still today is capable of surprising for its qualities and for its evolution. A success confirmed five years later with vintage 1990. Thanks to the intuition and skill of Alvaro Palini, it was also produced one of the most renowned and famous wines of Adanti winery: Arquata Rosso. This elegant wine is created by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to which is added Barbera: a very well made wine that since the first year of its production - it was 1981 - has always represented the quality of Adanti winery and that should certainly be considered - even in the current vintage 2000 - among the best red wines of Umbria.

 Today the technical management of the wine production has passed to Ms. Graziana Grassini, the clever and talented wine maker from Grosseto. Graziana Grassini scrupulously continues with her talent to keep the quality of this historical Umbrian winery high. The result of her skill and of her talent is proven in the glass: in every Adanti's wine emerges intact the typical quality of the grapes and the organoleptic sensations typical of wood aging are never intrusive or inappropriate, while giving the wines a very good olfactory and gustatory balance. The production of Adanti winery includes both white and red wines. Among white wines there are Montefalco Bianco (Grechetto, Chardonnay and Trebbiano Toscano) and the very good Colli Martani Grechetto. The range of red wines begins with Montefalco Rosso (Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Barbera, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), followed by Sagrantino di Montefalco and the excellent Arquata Rosso (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Barbera). The production also includes the typical sweet wines of the area and of Umbria such as Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito and Vinsanto dell'Umbria (Grechetto, Malvasia, Trebbiano Toscano and Garganega). Finally, with the pomace of Sagrantino is being produced a grappa distilled with a discontinuous steam operated alembic still by Distilleria Aquileia.