Among the many letters we receive from our readers, we are frequently asked about our opinion concerning the same subjects and, despite we cannot reply to each of them, in case the subject becomes frequent, the best way to answer everyone is by means of our pages. It is right the frequent subject found in many letter which suggested us to cover it in this issue's editorial. The subject is - in its nature - pretty simple, however the answer which can be given are many and each case must certainly be considered accordingly. Since many months, many readers keep on asking us our opinion about the frequent presence of some grapes in most of red wines. In particular Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, even in case they have nothing to do with the wine history of some places, most of the times radically changing the nature and the tradition of many wines.

 Indeed, by considering the grapes used for the production of many red wines, the recurrent and insistent presence of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is pretty high. The introduction of these grapes has also been done in those areas in which wine was traditionally made with other grapes since ever. Moreover, they were recognized new appellation areas in which these grapes are used alone for the production of mono varietal wines. This latter case - undoubtedly - has nothing to do with the traditions of those places, with the exception - of course - of French areas from which these grapes are from. For example, if we consider Italy - the country for which our readers mainly rise their criticisms - Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are frequently added in variable quantities to the classic - and certainly excellent - typical red grapes of the many regions, such as Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Nero d'Avola and Montepulciano, as to mention some examples.

 Why are these grapes so widely used in the production of red wines as to change the secular traditions of many places and - in many cases - by completely replacing them? If we do not consider traditional reasons - evidently excluded in this case - and by considering the goal of producers is also selling wine, we could consider commercial reasons only. However, if we carefully evaluate this problem, it is clear the solution is not exclusively found in commercial issues only, but also in cultural, fashion and interests matters. Let's consider everything from the beginning by premising something important. It is undeniable Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have both proven their enological value and the quality of their wines in many occasions. Therefore this is not - and it cannot be - a war against these two grapes as every good connoisseur understands their indisputable value. Maybe is it because of these indisputable values they are believed to work miracles in the production of wines, by transforming a mediocre wine into a divine nectar?

 By seeing the frequency with which these grapes are being used in wines, this could also be the case. Let's consider this issue from another point of view instead. Organoleptic qualities of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are so easily recognizable which is pretty hard not to notice them in a wine. Moreover, their organoleptic qualities are also pleasing, easy and immediate to understand. Merlot, with its roundness and its pleasing aromas, is undoubtedly capable of making a harsh wine smoother and more agreeable, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon can give a certain organoleptic importance to many wines. These qualities do not require attention or competence in order to be appreciated, therefore the wines produced with these grapes meet the taste and the favor of a wide number of consumers. Of course, we are just generalizing. We truly understand there are many Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon wines with a remarkable organoleptic complexity requiring all the attention - and pleasure - of a taster.

 If it is true Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are more acceptable and preferred by consumers, this also explains the commercial reason: these wines are more easily sold. A simple and practical rule of marketing which easily ensures profits: it is being produced what it can be sold. This is a logic - according to the producer's point of view, who undoubtedly makes wine for passion as well - which is unexceptionable. How many examples could be mentioned about wines that, before providential adding of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, were almost unknown and not very considered by consumers and have then experienced a sudden notoriety and appreciation? We are sure every reader who sent a mail about this subject knows at least one name of such a wine. However, the subject is worth of more consideration, which can also be cause of concern and of which we cannot certainly be happy. If it is true the organoleptic qualities of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - pretty typical and evident - are found in many wines, how strong is the danger of making wines all alike? According to our opinion - and maybe the opinion of our readers as well - this “danger” is pretty high.

 Anyway, we cannot complain about this that much, because if these wines meet the favor and the taste of consumers, this means most of wine lovers ask and look for such wines. A wine which is not sold would not be produced anymore, as it has always happened to many wines - even glorious - which have seen the end of their story or have undergone appropriate corrections. If consumers ask for easy and immediate wines, therefore the problem is also cultural, as well as about laziness and scarce interest to explore less obvious wines and with organoleptic qualities requiring higher attention. It is also appropriate to remember that in case a wine is good and well made - despite the grapes used for its production - it should be considered for what it really expresses. However it is undeniable this trend will lead to a sort of homologation in wines - all the same, all alike - a perspective for which it is hard to be happy for, or at least, it does not make us happy. That's why we believe the solution must basically come from wine lovers and consumers. Without denying Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - once again, we fully understand their high and undeniable value - we should be more attentive and open to any wine, by approaching the glass with the complete and humble intention of listening to its history, its character and its personality.

 In this column are published our reader's mail. If you have any comment or any question or just want to express your opinion about wine, send your letters to our editorial or fill in the form available at our site.

 In Lombardy there is a small region, just below the Iseo lake and near the city of Brescia, that since many years has been successful in spreading its fame worldwide for the quality of its precious bubbles - be careful not to call them spumante - and which are called Franciacorta, a historical wine area having ancient origins and its wines, since past times, were known and appreciated for their qualities. Today the noble bubbles of Franciacorta belong to the small group of excellent wines of the world, a remarkable success achieved thanks to tenacity and seriousness and in a relatively short period of time, in less than 40 years. The way walked by producers in Franciacorta is a brilliant example of how sharing seriousness and passion in order to achieve quality in the wines of the area, allowed reaching truly high goals in a short time, and to confirm all that, there are facts, those facts which undeniably are confirmed in a good glass of Franciacorta. In this area - today famous for bubbles - are also produced white and red table wines, once again, examples of good quality.

 Franciacorta and wine have been connected since many centuries, not only still table wines, but also the ones which could be defined as the “ancestors” of modern sparkling wines and at those times were called mordaci wines, in other words, slightly sparkling wines. In the Franciacorta area were being produced and commercialized slightly sparkling wines since 1200's and few centuries later, around the half of 1500, Agostino Conforti wrote in his documents about a slightly sparkling wine called Cisiolo. They certainly were wines so different and distant - not only in time - from modern and bubbly Franciacortas, they however are enough to prove here bubbles have a long history. However it should be remembered the recent production style in Franciacorta has no traditional and historical connection with slightly sparkling wines of the past: it was - to tell the truth - the introduction of the classic method in this area following the commercial success of bubbles produced in the neighboring France.

Franciacorta area

 The name with which this important wine area is being defined - Franciacorta for sparkling wines, Terre di Franciacorta or Curtefranca for table still wines - has a controversial origin and many are the hypothesis and legend about its meaning. The most probable hypothesis comes from franchae curtes, that is corte franca, cities and towns that were under the protection of Benedictine monks and which obtained the exemption of paying taxes. However there also are other hypothesis about the origin of Franciacorta name, some of them being legendary - such as the name piccola Francia (little France) given by Charlemagne, as well as the cry “Francese fuori! Qui Francia sarà corta!” (French get out, here France will be short) of the revolting people to the occupation of Charles of Angiò - or derived from local expressions to emphasize the not truly florid conditions of people “a curt de franc”, that is “short of money”. Legends and hypothesis apart, in the historical documents of this place - the Municipal Statute of Brescia - the first mention of the name Franzacurta - or Franzia Curta - is dated back to 1277, and since those times it already was an important area for the production of wines and from which the city of Brescia got its wine.

 The success of the precious and noble bubbles of Franciacorta is however a fact of recent history. Everything began at the end of the 1950's when a young wine maker, Franco Ziliani, conducted his first experiments in the famous cellars of Guido Berlucchi. In 1958, Franco Ziliani - considered the father of Franciacorta - after some attempts, is successful, without having never been in French Champagne, to make sparkling wines, by means of the technique of the refermentation in bottle, thanks to the techniques learnt during the lessons he attended at school. By using a still table wine produced by Guido Berlucchi, he decided to make use of Pinot Blanc for his sparkling wine and soon after that wine - spumante Pinot della Franciacorta, produced in white and rosé styles - became famous all over Italy, and the requests forced Berlucchi to buy grapes outside the Franciacorta area. In the 1970's, the fame of Berlucchi's spumante, convinced other producers of the area to start the production of this wine, including Domenico De Filippo, Barone Pizzini Piomarta, Fratelli Lenza, Lantieri de Paratico, Bersi Serlini, Riccafana and Ca' Del Bosco. At those times - precisely in 1967 - Franciacorta was already recognized as DOC Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin).

 Among the many figures who have contributed to the recent history of Franciacorta's bubbles, a fundamental role for the development of the image and quality of these wines was played by Maurizio Zanella, founder of the renowned Ca' del Bosco. In 1980, the volcanic Maurizio Zanella - after having studied at the Station Œnologique de Bourgogne and at the University of Enology in Bordeaux, by taking inspiration from the famous wines of Champagne, he decided to start his business about the production of sparkling wines. A striking success and soon after Ca' del Bosco's Franciacorta became an important reference point for the whole area. In 1980 was established the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Franciacorta (Consortium for the Safeguarding of Franciacorta Wines), and in 1985 the area is recognized - thanks to the important efforts of Ricci Curbastro and Comolli - as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin), the only Italian classic method spumante to which was recognized such a high appellation. An important characteristic of Franciacorta is represented by its producers. As opposed to other areas in which are being produced classic method sparkling wines, here there are no big wineries which gather grapes from other producers, in Franciacorta are mainly found small wineries which produce wines with the grapes harvested in their vineyards and the yearly production for each of them rarely exceeds 400,000 bottles.

 Franciacorta is not bubbles only. In the same area are also produced still table wines, both white and red, to which is recognized the appellation Terre di Franciacorta or Curtefranca, to honor two of the names with which the area was known in past centuries. The choice of not considering the past of Franciacorta - although important - and not to stick to ancient traditions, has allowed producers in this area to develop an innovative production model in order to achieve quality: a choice which favored the introduction of specific grapes for the production of sparkling wines - Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir - as well as grapes for the production of red wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Nebbiolo and Barbera. The production of white wines is obtained from Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay grapes. Today Franciacorta - with its table and sparkling wines - represents an important Italian wine making model, a remarkable success obtained by means of tenacity and qualitative reliability of its producers, a great Italian proud today known worldwide.

 The qualitative classification of Franciacorta wines is recognized and regulated by the Italian system according to type. Still table wines - both red and white - belong to the Denomination of Controlled Origin (DOC) “Terre di Franciacorta” or “Curtefranca”, whereas the renowned sparkling wines belong to the Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin (DOCG). Franciacorta sparkling wines are all produced according to the classic method of the refermentation in bottle and are the only Italian sparkling wines produced with this method to belong to the DOCG appellation. According to the disciplinary regulating the production of these wines, in Franciacorta labels cannot be mentioned neither the generic term spumante, nor references to the production method, such as metodo classico (classic method) or metodo tradizionale (traditional method). For this reason Franciacorta must exclusively be called - by law - Franciacorta only, with no other definitions.

 The production disciplinary of Franciacorta can be considered among the strictest and more scrupulous in the world for the production of sparkling wines. For example, non vintage Franciacorta must be aged for a minimum of 25 months, of which at least 18 in the bottle on the lees, whereas for vintage, the minimum aging time is 37 months, of which at least 30 in the bottle on the yeast. Franciacorta can be produced both as senza annata (non vintage) or millesimato (vintage) - white or rosé - as well as in the Satèn style, characterized by a lower pressure. Franciacortas are produced in many levels of sweetness: Non Dosato (or Pas Dosé, Dosage Zéro, Pas Opéré or Nature), Extra Brut, Brut, Sec and Demi-Sec. It should be noticed Satèn - exclusively obtained from white berried grapes Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc - is uniquely available in the Brut style, whereas Franciacorta Rosé does not include the Extra Brut style.

 Franciacorta is produced according to the Metodo Franciacorta (Franciacorta Method) - basically, classic method - in which the production procedures, control and aging follow pretty strict and scrupulous criteria, probably like no other sparkling wine in the world. Exactly as set by the classic method, the production of Franciacorta begins with the preparation of base wine - or cuvée - which must have, by law, a minimum alcohol volume of 9.5%. The production of the base wine can also be done with any possible aging in cask of different sizes, and for non vintage Franciacorta, is also allowed the use of wines belonging to different vintages, whereas for vintage Franciacorta, can be used grapes belonging to the vintage mentioned in the label only. Grapes allowed for the production of Franciacorta are three, of which two white berried ones, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, and one red berried variety, Pinot Noir. These grapes can be used for the production of wines in different percentages, however for Franciacorta Rosé the minimum percentage of Pinot Noir is of 15%, whereas Franciacorta Satèn can exclusively be produced with white berried grapes.

 The production of base wine from Pinot Noir is made in white, that is by avoiding any contact of the must with the skin, whereas for rosé wines it is allowed a maceration of the skins according to the color and the organoleptic qualities wished by the producer. During springtime, base wines begin their journey inside a bottle in order to be enriched with refined bubbles. To the base wine is added the so called liqueur de tirage, a mixture of sugar and yeast in order to start the second fermentation. It is good to remember every 4 grams of sugar added to one liter of base wine produces a pressure of one atmosphere, therefore the quantity of sugar usually added is of 24 grams in order to obtain the usual pressure of 6 atmospheres. Exception to this rule is Franciacorta Satèn, whose pressure cannot exceed 4.5 atmospheres. The base wine is then bottled and therefore beginning the next phase of the refermentation. During fermentation, yeasts consume sugar, therefore producing alcohol and carbon dioxide, responsible for the effervescence in Franciacorta.

 At the end of the fermentation yeast sediments on the side of the bottle - left in horizontal position - and begins the phase of aging sur lie, that is on the lees. For non vintage Franciacorta the minimum aging period is of 18 months, whereas for vintage Franciacorta it is 30 months, periods which are - in general terms - prolonged in order to give the wine more complexity and structure. During this period, the yeast - by means of a process called autolysis - gets decomposed and gives the wine its aromas and flavors, therefore giving Franciacorta a higher complexity and finesse. After the aging period, it is now the time to remove the sediment of yeast. Bottles are then put downside in special wood supports (pupitres), where the patient process of remuage will begin, the famous operation of shaking and rotating the bottles in order to push the sediment towards the opening. At the end of remuage, when the bottles get a vertical position in pupitres, sediment is now ready to be removed.

 At this point the neck of the bottle is being plunged in a liquid solution at a temperature of about -20°C (-4°F) in order to rapidly freeze the sediment. The next operation - disgorgement or dègorgement and which allows the elimination of the sediment - consists in opening the bottle. The internal pressure will expel the frozen mass of exhausted yeast, while ensuring a very limited loss of wine and leaving the wine perfectly limpid. At this point the bottles are refilled with a special solution - called liqueur d'expedition or dosage - which also has the purpose of giving the right sweetness to the wine according to style. Dosage is usually made of the same wine, or even by wine aged for a long time, to which is added sugar: a secret recipe giving the typical producer's style. According to the quantity of sugar added to the dosage, are being obtained Extra Brut, Brut, Sec or Demi-Sec styles. It is good to remember Franciacorta Satèn can uniquely be produced as Brut and the dosage used for Pas Dosé does not make use of any sugar. At this point the bottles are closed with the typical mushroom shaped cork and shaken accordingly in order to mix the dosage to the wine and, after a proper period of aging in the cellar for some months, Franciacorta is ready for commercialization.

 In this area are produced - besides wines with noble bubbles - table wines classified as “Terre di Franciacorta” or “Curtefranca” DOC. The production is both about white and red wines. White Terre di Franciacorta is produced with Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc grapes - alone or together - to which can also be added Pinot Noir vinified in white. Red Terre di Franciacorta is produced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Nebbiolo and Barbera grapes. Because of the confusion that could exist between the two denominations of the area - Terre di Franciacorta for table wines, Franciacorta for sparkling wines - it was recently proposed the denomination “Curtefranca” for table wines, and that should help consumers to distinguish the two appellations. Table wines produced in this denomination, both white and red, have pretty interesting organoleptic qualities, in particular red wines, where Nebbiolo and Barbera give pleasing touches of crispness to Merlot and Cabernet.

 After the comparative tasting about aromatic white grapes, this month we will study three red berried varieties, known since many years in every wine producing country of the world and considered as international, important symbols of French enology. This month's tasting will examine Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot - whose origin is from Bordeaux and widely used for the production of wines all over the world - as well as Pinot Noir, emblem of red wines in Bourgogne. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have conquered the vineyards in every country of the world - frequently used together with local grapes - Pinot Noir still possesses higher personality, even because of the difficulty in the cultivation and vinification of this grape. Grapes producing truly different wines and it will be interesting to discover their characteristics and specific qualities.

 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir are everywhere considered grapes capable of producing elegant and important wines, however the personality of each will let them express a truly different elegance one from each other. Cabernet Sauvignon undeniably represents power, Merlot smoothness and Pinot Noir elegant class. Grapes producing wines with different structures to which contributes the use of casks and barriques as well. The goal of our comparative tasting - besides studying the specific qualities of each grape - is to understand how every grape gives different structure to wine, different organoleptic qualities - not only aromatic - as well as different gustatory evolution. We will discover, for example, how the pleasing acidity of Pinot Noir contributes to its elegance, whereas roundness will be the charming side of Merlot, as well as the appreciable astringency of tannins will give Cabernet Sauvignon its typical body.

 The wines selected for our comparative tasting will be produced with the three grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir - alone, that is the wines will be mono varietals. The wine making techniques used for the production of these wines - all being aged in cask - will let us understand how wood influences the many organoleptic qualities. We will understand how wood is being used in different ways according to the type of grape - more intense for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, lighter for Pinot Noir - while giving, in many aspects, the typicality generally recognized to the wines produced with these grapes. Another interesting aspect of our tasting is the study of organoleptic similarities in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and how Pinot Noir is drastically different from these two renowned varieties.

	The three wines of our comparative tasting

 The wines selected for the tasting offer interesting elements for the goal of our comparison. The first wine we will examine is Produttori Termeno's Alto Adige Pinot Nero Schiesstandhof, an interesting Pinot Noir in which can be found all the typical qualities of the grape and in which is also possible to recognize the effects of wood in the aging. The second wine is Rocca Bernarda's Colli Orientali del Friuli Merlot Centis, interesting example of this renowned grapes and having useful similarities with the third wine, Casale del Giglio's Cabernet Sauvignon. This latter wine has very interesting qualities typical of the grape, an useful characteristic for the purpose of our comparative tasting. In case it is not possible to have the wines we just proposed, we suggest choosing - as an alternative - wines coming from the same areas and aged in barrique. Concerning vintages, it will be chosen the most recent ones. The three wines will be served at a temperature of 18°C (64°F) in three ISO tasting glasses. We can therefore let our tasting begin: let's pour the three wines on the three glasses.

 By observing the three wines, it will be noticed that one of them is very different in the aspect from the other two. Whereas color and transparency in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are pretty similar, the aspect of Pinot Noir will show a paler color and a higher transparency. This quality is perfectly corresponding to the type of grape, as well as it is for the other two grapes. Despite a wine having a less intense color and a higher transparency usually makes people believe it is a lesser quality product, this characteristic is absolutely normal and correspondent in wines produced with Pinot Noir. It will be Pinot Noir the first wine we will examine. By holding the glass tilted over a white surface, the color shows a brilliant ruby red color whereas the nuance - which can be observed in the edge of the liquid mass towards the opening of the glass - shows an evident garnet red color. A precise sign which is absolutely coherent with its age, as Produttori Termeno winery usually release this wine after about three years from vintage.

 The second wine we will examine is Rocca Bernarda's Merlot. In this case the color is evidently more intense and deep as opposed to Pinot Noir, even in this case, absolutely correspondent to the type. It will be observed - by holding the glass tilted over a white surface - a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, with a lesser transparency than Pinot Noir. It is good to remember the colorant capacity of Pinot Noir is not high, therefore the comparison with Merlot will directly highlight the qualities of the two grapes. Then, we will observe the color of Casale del Giglio's Cabernet Sauvignon. The color will be intense ruby red, deeper than both Merlot and Pinot Noir, and the nuances will show the same color. This characteristic makes us understand this wine is relatively young - Casale del Giglio release its Cabernet Sauvignon after about three years from vintage - as well as highlighting a higher longevity than Merlot. It should also be remembered the coloring capacity of Cabernet Sauvignon is pretty high, therefore the color in these wines will generally be intense and deep, as opposed to Pinot Noir which has a truly lesser coloring capacity.

 The olfactory comparison of the three wines will be pretty interesting. We will understand, first of all, how Pinot Noir is different from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which will have in common interesting aromatic analogies. Of the three wines, the one having the more delicate aroma certainly is Pinot Noir: in fact this will be the first wine we will examine. By holding the glass still - that is without swirling it - let's smell Pinot Noir in order to assess its opening aromas. They will be perceived strong aromas of cherry and raspberry, two aromas - and in particular cherry - which are identifying of this variety. After having swirled the glass, let's now smell the glass for the second time: we will discover all other aromas are now accentuated. In this second phase it will be possible to perceive aromas of strawberry jam, dried rose, geranium and plum. This Pinot Noir also have more complex aromas because of the aging in wood - Schiesstandhof ages for 9 months in barrique - such as vanilla, licorice and cocoa.

 The second wine we will examine is Rocca Bernarda's Colli Orientali del Friuli Merlot Centis. The evaluation of opening aromas - by holding the glass still - will reveal hints of black cherry, plum and black currant, three aromas typical in Merlot - and we will discover in Cabernet Sauvignon as well - therefore the wine is correspondent to the variety. By swirling the glass and by smelling the wine again, it will be perceived an aroma of blueberry as well as an aromatic series typical of the aging in wood - a wine making practice frequent for Merlot and in this case corresponding to 15 months - such as vanilla, licorice, cinnamon and cocoa. This Merlot also offers aromas which could surprise some tasters. In fact they will be perceived aromatic qualities of vegetal origin, in this specific case bell pepper and hay. The aroma of bell pepper can be an identifying quality of Merlot - however it is more typical in Cabernet Sauvignon and in particular in Cabernet Franc - more frequent in case the grape comes from cool climate areas or harvested when not perfectly ripe.

 The last wine we will examine is Casale del Giglio's Cabernet Sauvignon. In this wine the opening aromas, appreciable by holding the glass still, will reveal hints of black cherry and black currant, a quality which we have already found in Merlot and which is absolutely typical - as well as plum - in Cabernet Sauvignon. The second smell - done by swirling the glass - will reveal aromas of plum, violet and blackberry as well as aromas derived from the aging in wood - for this wine is about 20 months in barrique - such as vanilla, licorice and cocoa. It will also be noticed a clean aroma of bell pepper, already found in Merlot, which is to be considered a peculiarity of Cabernet grapes. Other aromas emerging from the glass include tobacco and hints of leather. Finally it will be noticed an “unusual” aroma with a strong balsamic nature: it is eucalyptus, an aroma which generally develops with the aging in barrique and which is frequently found in Cabernet Sauvignon.

 During the gustatory analysis, the three wines will reveal their differences instead of their similarities. The first wine we will taste is Pinot Noir. The first impact will reveal one of the qualities making this grape unique, an appreciable acidity - which does not disturb at all and which gives the wine a good elegance - as well as an appreciable astringency because of tannins. These characteristics are absolutely typical in Pinot Noir, and in particular its not excessive astringency as the grape does not have high quantity of tannins. It will also be noticed an appreciable alcohol volume and how it is useful in keeping the wine's acidity perfectly balanced. It will also be noticed a good smoothness, as the result of the aging in wood. Let's examine the structure of this wine: a characteristic we will compare with the other two wines. In the mouth will be perceived flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry, therefore confirming its correspondence to the nose.

 The second wine we will examine is Merlot. The sensations perceived in the mouth will completely be different from Pinot Noir. In this wine it is smoothness the quality which is perceived in the beginning, the structure is evidently higher as well as the astringency of tannins. Smoothness is in fact one of the main qualities of Merlot and which are easily appreciated, for this reason it is frequently used for assembling wines in order to make them rounder and less harsh. In the mouth this Merlot will confirm its correspondence to the nose: it will be possible to perceive flavors of plum, black cherry and black currant. After that, we will proceed by tasting Cabernet Sauvignon. The impact is very different from the other two wines and here will be the higher structure to be noticed in the beginning - also reinforced by the higher astringency of tannins - while however having a pleasing smoothness because of the aging in barrique. It should also be noticed the alcohol volume and how it contributes in determining the wine's balance. Even this Cabernet Sauvignon confirms its correspondence to the nose by means of the perception of black cherry, plum and black currant flavors, the same perceived in Merlot as well.

 The final sensations the three wines leave in the mouth are different one from another, however in all the three cases, it will be noticed a good taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Produttori Termeno's Pinot Nero Schiesstandhof will be characterized by pleasing flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry, perfectly coherent with its type. The finish of Rocca Bernarda's Merlot Centis will be characterized by flavors of plum, black cherry and black currant, once again, typical qualities of Merlot. It is interesting to notice how the finish of Casale del Giglio's Cabernet Sauvignon will leave in the mouth flavors of black cherry, plum and black currant, however they will be more intense than Merlot, therefore confirming the typical organoleptic qualities of this grape. During the evaluation of finish, it should be examined the impact of structure and astringency: it will be low in Pinot Noir, medium high in Merlot, very high in Cabernet Sauvignon. The end of the tasting will let us understand some similarities in Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the evident differences of Pinot Noir.

 Emilia Romagna - the welcoming region in northern Italy - is since ever associated to nice food and, with its countless and famous food products, sitting down near a table is always a pleasure. Not only rich and tasty foods, in this land also wine represents an essential reference point for the tradition of the region. From Emilia to the sea coasts of Romagna, wine changes its face and history, its expression is made of different grapes, although always keeping its fundamental role in the many areas of the region. Right in this region is located Tre Monti winery, which since more than twenty years is involved in the production of quality wines both by using the typical grape varieties of the territory - such as Albana, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Sangiovese - as well as renowned international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, present in the winery's vineyards since many years. Tre Monti's wines, both the ones produced with autochthonous grapes and international grapes, confirm every year the excellent quality level of this winery.

A top view of Tre Monti Winery

 Tre Monti winery was established in the beginning of the 1960's by Sergio Navacchia and his wife Thea, important figure of reference for the winery until she passed away, in 1989. At the beginning of the 1980's Tre Monti winery concretely begins to change its production by aiming to the goal of reaching high levels of quality, a real and proper change even for the enology of Emilia Romagna in which - just like most of Italian regions - quantity generally was the priority of most of the wineries. It was understood this change should begin in the vineyard, by introducing new varieties, lowering the yields per hectare as well as doing an accurate selection. The process should have been continued in the cellar by ensuring the winery the support of important and skilled professionals. It was then hired wine maker Francesco Spagnoli - at those years very young - followed by Vittorio Fiore and then Donato Lanati, the present wine maker of Tre Monti. Today the winery is run by David and Vittorio Navacchia brothers, with the help of their father Sergio, as well as Attilio Scienza, agronomy consultant.

 A prestigious team, which believes in the shared passion of achieving quality in every phase of the production, always researching for new products, by studying new varieties and the qualities each one of them can express in the territory, even by reusing ancient grape varieties, most of the times abandoned because believed not to be productive. Tre Monti winery owns two estates of which the first one is located in the hills of Imola - in the province of Bologna - and the other being near Forlì, both located in the heart of very important wine areas. The estates cover a total surface of about 50 hectares (about 124 acres), all destined to vineyards. The vinification cellar is located at Bergullo - near Imola - where are being processed grapes coming from the winery's estates only. Tre Monti winery pays particular attention to the autochthonous varieties of the area - Albana, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Sangiovese - and thanks to the supervision of Prof. Attilio Scienza and Dr. Francesco Lizzio - is being conducted a comprehensive study about the zonation of the estate. In the purpose of this study were also introduced international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay (cultivated in the vineyards since 1985), Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc.

	Vittorio, Sergio and Davide Navacchia

 An interesting aspect is represented by the Albana variety cultivated in the estate at Imola, a pretty rare variety and known as Albana della Serra, with a golden yellow bunch and capable of making round wines of good quality. The estate at Imola - where the Tre Monti winery is located at - covers a surface of about 30 hectares (about 74 acres) exposed towards south - south/east in which are being cultivated Albana, Trebbiano Romagnolo, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc varieties. The Petrignone estates - located in the hills of Forlì and covering a surface of about 25 hectares (about 61 acres) - is completely used for the cultivation of the classic varieties of Romagna: Albana, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Sangiovese Grosso. After a substantial work of renewal, the vinification plant is today modern and rational. Particular care and attention are paid in every phase of the vinification, from the selection of grapes to aging.

 The winery has a capacity of about 50,000 liters (about 13,208 gallons), divided among barriques and casks of large sizes. Tre Monti represents a solid reference point for the enology of Emilia Romagna, thanks to the quality which has always increased in the past years. Tre Monti winery is in fact among the official providers of Presidency of Italian Republic and it is present with four wines. About the 60% of the production is destined to the Italian market and the distribution is mainly done by wine shops and high class restaurants. Even export plays a major role: every year are released in foreign markets about 120,000 bottles, mainly in the European countries - in particular Germany, Belgium, Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, Poland and Austria - in the United States of America, Canada, Switzerland, Peru, Cayman Islands and Cyprus.

 The production of Tre Monti winery is of excellent qualitative level with a very interesting range of wines. White wines are produced both with autochthonous and international grapes. Of excellent level are the wines produced with the Albana grape. Vigna della Rocca, vinified as dry and partially aged in cask, offers truly valuable organoleptic qualities. Even the sweet style of the Albana is truly interesting for its aromas and for its structure enriched by the aging in barrique. Among white wines there is also Salcerella, produced with Albana aged in cask to which is added 35% of Chardonnay aged in steel tanks. Also the production of red wines is of excellent quality and good interest. Are mentioned the Sangiovese Riserva - produced with Sangiovese Grosso aged for 3 months in barrique - and the very good Boldo, produced with Sangiovese Grosso and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 6 months in barrique. A prestigious wine and flagship of Tre Monti winery is Sangiovese Thea - dedicated to the mother of Navacchia brothers and aged in barrique for 6 months - a wine with a very good personality and body however having a charming elegance and grace.

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