The last May 12th, 2005, the European Court of Justice of Luxembourg has set «as stipulated in 1993 agreement between the European Union and Hungary, the prohibition of using - after March 31st, 2007 - the denomination “Tocai” for some Italian wines». Saved the case there will be further development, the dispute between the historical Tocai Friulano - glorious grape of Friuli Venezia Giulia - and Hungarian Tokaji, is over and the renowned Italian grape was defeated. Nothing could do the historical and well documented evidences which supported the very good Tocai Friulano. The European Court has in fact set «the regulation about homonymy of the examined international agreements do not allow that, in consideration of the Hungarian geographical denomination “Tokaj”, the appellation of the Italian grape variety “Tocai Friulano” cannot be used anymore for the designation and identification of some Italian wines». A verdict leaving few hopes on the future of Tocai Friulano - of course - on its name only.

 In fact, the excellent grape from Friuli - luckily - will not disappear from our glasses: it will simply arrive with a new name which is not defined at the moment. The verdict - without commenting the decision - however leaves some perplexities, because undeniable and proven historical factors supporting Tocai Friulano were not considered at all and they exclusively wanted to work for the support of geographical denominations, however important and undeniable for sure. The reasons which gave origin to this debate between Hungary and the other countries members of the European Union are well known. Everything originated from the homonymy between the famous Hungarian area of Tokaj, which certainly is mother of excellent and famous wines, and the other denominations that - in a way or another - made use of terms recalling this area. Because of this, in November 1993, the European Community and Hungary signed an agreement in which were set the terms for a mutual safeguarding and control of wine denominations. In order to safeguard the geographical denomination of Tokaj, the agreement stipulated the prohibition of use of the tocai term - as well as any other similar form - from March 2007 on. The agreement was, in particular, about Italian wines produced with Tocai Friulano and the Tokay mentions found in the label of some French wines.

 The verdict cancels - as a matter of fact - 800 years of history, proven by many documents of the past, in which this grape was mentioned with its usual and historical name. Despite the origin of the name of the glorious grape from Friuli is not completely clear, it is however interesting to known that in the region there is a creek - the Toccai - and from which the renowned grape takes, unnameable for the moment, its name. However there are documents of the Patriarchs of Venice - dated back to the 1200's - in which was mentioned, since those times, the Tocai Friulano grape. There also are other historical evidences about this grape and about Hungary. It is in fact supposed some plants of Tocai Friulano were sent in the thirteenth century from Bertoldo di Andechs - at those times Patriarch of Aquileia - to King Bela IV of Hungary. It is surprising how the verdict of the European Court - even according the many historical evidences - did not consider such a strong and proven past, as to end the dispute between Italy and Hungary with the “elimination” of Tocai Friulano from the labels of wine and from the culture of Friuli Venezia Giulia.

 While we pay all our respect to the excellent wines from Hungarian Tokaj, we do not believe Tocai Friulano - or in any other name it will be called - needs to take advantage of the historical and noble fame of Tokaj in order to prove its great enological talent. Even because, if we think about Tokaj, the most common and direct association is in favor of the magnificent Aszú - the renowned and charming wine made with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea - that is to a type of wine completely different from the ones produced with Tocai Friulano, notoriously used for dry wines. It should however be remembered that in Tokaj are also produced dry table wines, mainly with Furmint grape, totally absent in Italy and having no connection - even genetically - with Tocai Friulano. The homonymy of a geographical area and our white berried grape has been resolved in a court, by imposing the strict rules of bureaucracy to common sense. It seems there will be no extensions or alternatives: within March 2007, Tocai Friulano must change its name.

 Despite it has not been chosen a new name for this grape having centuries of glorious history - and of excellent wines - there however were many proposals. Among the many proposed names are mentioned Friulano, Toccai (in honor of the homonymous creek flowing in the region) or Tai Friulano (Tai means glass in the local dialect). It is however sad to see this dispute about the exclusive use of a name ended like this and maybe some good sense would have been more appropriate. We would like to remind everyone who insists in using names and show them off like a flag, the words of Juliet said to Romeo in the famous dialogue of the second scene in the second act of William Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet tragedy. Juliet reminded her beloved Romeo: «What's in a name? What we call a rose, even with any other name would always smell as sweet». With any other name they will decide to call our Tocai Friulano, no one will never succeed in eliminating the prestige and the excellence of this grape and of anything its wines can express in glasses, including its aromas.

 As everyone knows, men usually need names and titles in order to identify and recognize the dignity of things, including wines and grapes. It is undeniable this verdict will however be cause of many problems and serious consequences for Friuli's producers, which since many years have associated their name with Tocai Friulano. This does mean they will have to work very hard in promoting the new name, as well as trying to have consumers and wine lovers understand it is the very same grape. It will be - for many aspects - like rewriting the history from the beginning and in a such distracted world and frequently attracted by frivolous things and appearance, it will probably not be easy. They will have to work hard on the promotion and spreading of the new name, and this is something Friuli Venezia Giulia's producers and institutions know very well. However this is not a farewell, there will always be Tocai Friulano, this is something we can be certain of. No matter what the name will be, it will be like meeting an old and dear friend who entertained us with his good company. See you soon Tocai Friulano: we are waiting for you in our glasses, to tell us your long and glorious story that - despite men - it will never change its name.

 In this column are published our reader's mail. If you have any comment or any question or just want to express your opinion about wine, send your letters to our editorial or fill in the form available at our site.

 The Duero - the river originating from Spain and emptying its course in the Atlantic ocean - has a strong connection with wine. In Spain it crosses the wine areas of Ribera del Duero, Rueda and Toro, whereas in Portugal - where its name becomes Douro - entirely crosses the wine areas of Port and Douro. Among the wine areas of Spain in which this river flows, Ribera del Duero certainly is the most important one and here are being produced interesting and renowned red wines, among the most longeval of the country. Frequently, Ribera del Duero wines are considered among the other great red wines of Spain - in particular the ones from Rioja - however the differences are many, including environmental and climatic conditions, even though they share the same grape. In fact, what in Rioja and in the world is known as Tempranillo, in Ribera del Duero is called Tinto Fino - or Tinta del País - and here, just like in Rioja, is the main protagonist in vineyards. It is not by chance in this area are almost being produced red wines: here white wines play a pretty marginal role and are mainly destined to local consumption.

 Despite Ribera del Duero has been recognized as a quality production area since a little more than twenty years, its history - according to an enological point of view - began almost 150 years ago. It was in 1864 that Don Eloy Lacanda y Chaves - coming back from Bordeaux where he studied enology - planted the first vineyards with the goal of producing wines in the French style. From his journey in France he brought back to Castilla some exemplars of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, and he decided to cultivate them - in the vineyards at Valladolid - together with the most typical grape of the area: Tinto Fino, better known as Tempranillo. The result was a wine that - even after more than one hundred years - is still considered among the best wines of Spain as well as - until the 1990's - the best wine of Ribera del Duero. This is how the renowned Vega-Sicilia's “Unico” was born, the wine which boosted Spanish enology to the top of the world and which has a wide number of passionate supporters among wine lovers. Talking about the history of enological quality in Ribera del Duero, it is practically impossible not to mention the important role played by the magnificent wine of Vega-Sicilia, even and in particular in times when in this area were produced pretty ordinary wines only.

Ribera del Duero

 The age of some vineyards of Vega-Sicilia, in which are being cultivated Cabernet Sauvignon and Tinto Fino, is of more than one hundred years and their precious grapes still contribute to make the “Unico” wine a great product. Vega-Sicilia's Unico is also one of the most longeval wines of the world and it is rarely commercialized before ten years of aging in cask. In fact, there are no commercial or periodical rules which imposes the release of wines: the choice is uniquely based on wine maker's decisions who allows the wine to age in the cask for all the time he believes to be necessary to make unique the renowned wine of Vega-Sicilia. It is enough to think that in 1991 was released the 1982 vintage together with 1968. Whereas in the former case nine years of aging were considered enough for the wine to be ready, in the latter case they waited even 23 years. The productive strictness of Vega-Sicilia also imposes that in years considered of not sufficiently good quality - usually two or three years in ten years - Unico wine is not produced.

 From more than one hundred years, the prestige of Vega-Sicilia had no rivals in Ribera del Duero. In 1972, Alejandro Fernández starts, in the neighborings of Pesquera de Duero vintage, his winery. As opposed to Vega-Sicilia, Alejandro Fernández decides to use Tinto Fino only to make his wines. After having harvested the grapes from vineyards - and pressed appropriately - the must is then transferred in casks to ferment - therefore allowed to age - and avoiding any practice of filtering. The result is a deeply concentrated and rich wine, extremely complex. Only after the half of the 1980's his wine was released for the first time on the market: it was a striking success which still today has a number of passionate supporters worldwide. The renowned Tinto Pesquera - this is the name of Alejandro Fernández's wine - is today among the most looked for and appreciated Spanish wines in the world. Pesquera Tinto therefore proved that in Ribera del Duero was possible to make great wines with Tinto Fino grape and - in particular - capable of long period of aging.

 The wines of Alejandro Fernández and Vega-Sicilia, thanks to their quality, attracted the interest of consumers in Ribera del Duero and other producers began to invest money on the production of wine. It was only in 1982 that Ribera del Duero was recognized by the Spanish quality system as a Denominación de Origen area (Denomination of Origin), abbreviated as DO. From that moment on, everything changed in Ribera del Duero and they tried to abandon the mediocre quality level which characterized the wines for a very long time, excluding the ones of Vega-Sicilia and Alejandro Fernández, of course. Producers began to ensure themselves the help of talented wine makers who made of quality their main goal. Wine began to play a fundamental and important role in the whole area and today Ribera del Duero's wines are being considered among the best ones of Spain. In general terms, the first change happened in the 1980's, however it will be around the half of 1990's - when the wines of the most serious producers were released in the international market - the mediocrity of Ribera del Duero's wines, typical until 1970's, was forgotten.

 Ribeira del Duero's wines are classified according to the Spanish enological quality system. Wines of this area are classified as DO (Denominación de Origen) and the production is almost exclusively about red wines. The Ribera del Duero wine area spreads over an area of about 120 square kilometers (about 46 square miles) and mainly located in four districts of Castilla and León region: Burgos (where the largest vineyard acreage is found), Soria, Segovia and Valladolid, the most famous area in which the most renowned wineries are located at. Enological production is almost exclusively about red wines made with Tinto Fino grape, considered as a genetic mutation of the Tempranillo grape known in Rioja. Other red berried grapes of Ribera del Duero include Garnacha Tinta - mainly used for the production of rose wines - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. The only white berried grape of the area is Albillo, cultivated in small quantities and from which are being produced white wines typically destined to local consumption.

 Red wines of Ribera del Duero are classified according to quality of grapes and to aging time, just like in Rioja. The lowest category is represented by tintos joven (young reds), simple wines and with fruity aromas, which are common in the local market and are not exported. The next category is crianza, to which belong wines with at least two years of aging in cask. Crianzas generally have aromas of cherry with a vague hints of “earthy” as well as aromas of vanilla and spices. Reserva wines are produced with superior quality grapes and must have a minimum aging period of three years. Reservas wines are characterized by their full body and full structure, good concentration and better quality than crianzas. The highest category is represented by gran reserva, to which belong wines with a minimum aging period of five years. Gran reservas are wines of great elegance and class in which the long aging allows aromas to have an interesting development and complexity: they represent a very small percentage of all the wine produced in Ribera del Duero. Reserva and gran reserva wines are usually produced in particularly favorable years. The category of quality (crianza, reserva and gran reserva) are always mentioned in the label and are certified by a special seal released by the council for the safeguarding of Ribera del Duero wines.

 Ribera del Duero is located at about 130 kilometers north from Madrid (about 80 miles) - in the Castilla and León region - in a territory of rocky plains crossed by the course of Duero river, that in Portugal is called Douro. Ribera del Duero is a wine region in which are mainly produced reds, however there is also a small production of white and rose wines, mainly destined for local consumption. The best red wines of this area are pretty concentrated, full bodied, with complex aromas, however showing a good balance among the many components. A typical characteristic of Ribera del Duero's red wines is aging that here can also be of more than ten years and far beyond the minimum requirements set by the production disciplinary. Just like in Rioja, for the aging of wines, new casks are rarely used, instead they often are used cask in order to give wine a less aggressive woody and more harmonic character. Just like in Rioja, casks are usually made from American oak.

 The most typical grape in Ribera del Duero is Tinto Fino - also known as Tinta del País - a genetic mutation of Tempranillo. After centuries of adaptation in the hot plains of Ribera del Duero, Tinto Fino produces more robust and concentrated wines than the Tempranillo known in Rioja. Ribera del Duero's climate is pretty severe, with summertime characterized by high temperatures and wintertime with rigid temperatures, frequently below zero degrees Celsius. Despite these extreme meteorological conditions, Tinto Fino - the most common grape of this area - was successful in perfectly adapting itself therefore allowing Ribera del Duero's wines to reach high enological levels after the “awakening” of the 1980's. Most of the vineyards cultivated in the Ribera del Duero have a pretty old age, frequently older than fifty years and some of them even have an older age. The old age of vineyards gives a lower quantity of grapes, however they have a higher concentration of flavors, one of the good qualities of red wines produced in this area.

 The condition of the region is partially mitigated by the influence of Duero river, which in summertime contributes to temper the dry and arid climate by increasing humidity, whereas in autumn and springtime contributes to diminish the effects and frequency of frosts. The most renowned wine area of Ribera del Duero - where the most prestigious wineries are found - is near Valladolid, located in the western area of the region. In most of the cases, Ribera del Duero's red wines are produced with 100% Tinto Fino grape, however the adding of other grapes are allowed as well. Albillo - the only white berried grape of the region - is sometimes added to the robust red wines of Ribera del Duero and it is marginally used for the production of white wines exclusively destined to local consumption. Tinto Fino represents about 85% of all the grapes cultivated in Ribera del Duero, whereas the remaining part is represented by Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Garnacha Tinta, as well as the white Albillo. Garnacha Tinta is typically used for the production of rose wines, mainly consumed in the local market. The best wines of Ribera del Duero are characterized by a full body, charming smoothness and round tannins because of the long aging in cask, complex aromas of spices, leather and fruit jams.

 Talking about bubbles - in particular about noble bubbles produced with the classic method - the association with great quality wines is obviously foregone. The charm of bubbles - impossible to deny - takes its origin from the long and prestigious tradition of Champagne, when the wines produced in that area became the symbol of nobility, of a refined and elegant life style, as well as representing an expensive product for the elite. By following the French fame, other countries began the production of wines by means of classic method in the hope of getting the same success. Italy, Spain, United States of America, South Africa and Australia are just few examples of countries in which the production of classic method sparkling wines has a relevant importance. The quality of sparkling wines produced in these countries increased to a level as to compete - frequently with the same opportunities - with the most celebrated and renowned wines of Champagne.

 Despite the production techniques and the grapes used are more or less the same as in Champagne, it is appropriate to remember every area gives its wines its personal character impossible to find elsewhere. Despite this fundamental and important consideration, many wine lovers keep on arguing on which sparkling wine is better, without considering each one of them is unique in its genre. No matter the region of origin, the grapes mainly used for the production of classic method sparkling wines are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, to which are sometimes added grapes belonging to local traditions as well as other grapes capable of giving the wine its typical character. The same can be said for the production system that, despite it is defined in many ways in the respective disciplinary and according to appropriate adaptations, they are all based on the so called classic method - that is the method of the refermentation in bottle - with variable aging time and that can also be of tens of years.

 The wines selected for this month's comparative tasting are all produced according the method of refermentation in bottle. We will compare three vintage sparkling wines - worth representatives of the respective categories - of which we will try to understand analogies and differences. We decided to compare the king of French bubbles - Champagne - with two interesting and excellent Italian wines - renowned worldwide since many years for the quality they expressed - produced in the northern part of the country: Franciacorta and Talento. In all the three wines are present two of the most classic grapes - in different percentages - used for the production of sparkling wines: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Whereas Chardonnay is generally responsible for class, finesse and elegance of wine, Pinot Noir is in charge to give structure, as well as giving its typical organoleptic qualities.

	Everything is ready for our comparative tasting

 According to an organoleptic point of view, the three selected wines offer interesting characteristics of comparison as well as analogies. The Champagne selected for our comparative tasting is Drappier's Grande Sendrée Brut, produced with 55% of Pinot Noir and 45% of Chardonnay, belonging to the millésime category. As for Franciacorta, we selected Ca' del Bosco's Cuvée Annamaria Clementi, produced with 55% of Chardonnay, 25% of Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Noir fermented and aged in barrique for 7 months, then it follows a refermentation and aging in bottle for 5 years and 8 months. The last wine selected for our tasting is Dorigati's Trento Talento Brut Riserva Methius, produced with 60% Chardonnay - of which a small part fermented in barrique - and 40% Pinot Noir, the wine is refermented and aged in bottle for about five years. The selected vintages will be, in all the three cases, the most recent ones. Serving temperature - because of the fact they are vintage wines and therefore it should be better to favor the development of complex aromas - will be of 12°C (53.6°F). As for glasses, the ideal one is represented by the so called classic method sparkling wine technical glass - generally adopted and proposed by the many production consortiums - however it will also be possible to use the classic ISO tasting glass with excellent results.

 As the wines have been poured in the respective glasses, we will notice all of them will form an abundant froth that will tend to dissolve in few seconds, just like we would expect from any quality classic method sparkling wine. The next characteristic we are going to examine is perlage, that is the quality, quantity and development of bubbles. On this regard it is appropriate to remember the analysis of perlage in sparkling wines represents a quality factor: the finer and more persistent the bubbles, the better the production techniques. In general terms, bubbles in classic method sparkling wines are finer than the ones produced with the Charmat method, thanks to the production method which allows a slower and more efficient solubilization of carbon dioxide in wine. For this reason, in quality classic method sparkling wines, perlage must always be fine and persistent, with bubbles having a diameter lesser than one millimeter and that will develop for many minutes in a continuous and copious chain moving upwards the surface. By observing the development of the perlage in our wines, we will notice some similarities: quick chains of very fine bubbles moving upwards and then moving towards the edge of the glass.

 After having observed the perlage, we will continue our evaluation by examining the color of the three wines. The first wine we will examine is Talento Methius. It will be observed an intense straw yellow color - and by tilting the glass over a white surface - there will be noticed straw yellow nuances in the edge of the liquid mass near the opening. Let's now evaluate Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi: its color will be pale golden yellow with evident nuances of straw yellow. We will notice the color is more intense than Methius: it is good to remember Cuvée Annamaria Clementi is aged for a longer period of time. Let's now observe the color of Drappier's Champagne Grande Sendrée. In this wine the color will be more intense than the other two, it will be noticed a brilliant golden yellow color and nuances of golden yellow, absolutely coherent with its type and the long aging in bottle. Finally, the three glasses will be observed side to side: it will be noticed how the color gets a more intense hue according to the aging time in bottle; paler in Methius, deeper in Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi and in Champagne Grande Sendrée.

 The analysis of aromas certainly is one of the most interesting and amazing aspects of vintage classic method sparkling wines. For this reason it is preferable to taste the three wines at a temperature used for young whites, 11°-12°C (52°-54°F). A lower temperature - there is even who serve these wines at 6°C (42°F), destroying in a moment the patient work of time - would favor the persistence and development of perlage that, despite it is pleasing to see, it will never be as amazing as the complex aromas these wines are capable to express. For the same reason, it would be appropriate to avoid a tight flûte glass in favor of a larger one. The first wine we will examine is Dorigati's Talento Methius. By holding the glass still, we will evaluate the opening aromas: there will be perceived aromas of banana and bread crust. Then - after having swirled the glass - a second smell will be done which will allow the perceiving of intense and pleasing aromas of acacia, pineapple, butter, hawthorn, kiwi, yeast, apple, honey, grapefruit, hazelnut, plum, chamomile and, finally, a pleasing hint of vanilla, the prove of Chardonnay's aging in wood.

 Let's now evaluate Ca' del Bosco's Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi aromas. The opening - done without moving the glass - gives intense aromas of bread crust, yeast, banana and acacia. Let's now swirl the glass as to allow a proper wine oxygenation. There will be perceived intense and refined aromas of apricot, pineapple, apple, pear, litchi, grapefruit as well as a pleasing hint of hazelnut. By continuing the olfactory analysis, there will be noticed more complex aromas - because of the effects of the long aging of wine in bottle on its yeast - of butter and honey, as well as a pleasing aroma of vanilla, effect of the fermentation and aging of base wine in barrique for 7 months. This olfactory impact - for many aspects similar to the excellent Methius - is typical in classic method sparkling wines aged for some years in bottle, where complex aromas wonderfully get married with aromas of fruit and flowers typical of the grapes used for the production.

 The third and last wine of which we will examine aromas is Drappier's Champagne Grande Sendrée Brut. By holding the glass still, there will be perceived intense and pleasing opening aromas such as bread crust, honey and yeast. Let's now swirl the glass in order to favor a proper wine oxygenation, and then let's evaluate aromas. There will be perceived aromas of fruit such as banana, pineapple, apple, litchi and grapefruit as well as a pleasing aroma of orange peel. Moreover, there will be perceived aromas of brioche, butter and praline, as well as a pleasing hint of flint. Pay your attention on the complexity of aromas and their evolution in the glass: a distinctive sign - just like in the other wines - of the patient aging of wine in the bottle on its yeast. The olfactory analysis of the three wines allows the understanding of interesting common factors: in all the three cases are found pleasing aromas of bread crust and yeast, typical in classic method sparkling wines aged for some years in bottle. Even the aromatic sequence of fruit and flowers is similar - although keeping in each case their evident personality - particularly thanks to Chardonnay grape, present in all the three wines.

 The gustatory analysis of the three wines will allow the understanding of some common aspects, typical in classic method sparkling wines aged for some years in bottle. The first wine we will examine is Dorigati's Talento Methius. This excellent Talento will show a balanced crispness and effervescence, intense flavors and - in particular - a very good correspondence of flavors to the aromas perceived to the nose. In particular, it will be noticed the pleasing smoothness of the wine as well as flavors of banana, grapefruit and apple. Finally, it will be examined the alcohol impact of the wine and how it is perfectly balanced by the pleasing crispness. Let's now evaluate Ca' del Bosco's Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi. Even in this case it will be perceived a pleasing crispness and a good effervescence, as well as the excellent correspondence of flavors to the aromas perceived to the nose. Even in this wine the smoothness is a pretty evident gustatory quality - thanks to the long aging in bottle - and that gives the wine a remarkable elegance.

 The long aging in bottle will also give this wine a fuller structure, also supported by the presence of Pinot Noir grape. In the mouth will be perceived - clean and intense - flavors of banana, litchi, apple and pear. Let's now examine Drappier's Champagne Grande Sendrée Brut. Even in this case the attack is clearly crisp and effervescent - well balanced by alcohol - with flavors very correspondence to the aromas perceived to the nose. In this wine will be noticed - in particular - the evident and pleasing smoothness as well as a good structure, in this case fuller than the other two wines. It is good to remember this Champagne is produced with 55% of Pinot Noir which - together with the long aging in bottle - will give the wine a fuller structure. It will also be noticed how in all the three wines - besides the usual crispness and effervescence - is present a pleasing and elegant roundness, generally not found in classic method sparkling wines aged in bottle for few tens of months.

 The final sensations of the three sparkling wines, have in common the long taste-olfactory persistence as to confirm their excellent quality. The finish of Methius leaves in the mouth long flavors of banana, honey, grapefruit, apple and hazelnut, confirming its pleasing and interesting complexity. The finish of Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi will leave long flavors of banana, litchi, pineapple, honey, pear, apple and grapefruit, even in this case, very elegant and with interesting organoleptic complexity. Champagne Grande Sendrée will leave in the mouth long flavors of honey, banana, grapefruit and brioche, all being of remarkable elegance. The evaluation of these three classic methods will allow the understanding of the organoleptic contribution of Chardonnay in all the three wines - in particular the aromatic similarities of fruit and flowers - as well as the contribution of Pinot Noir in structure, also supported by the long aging. Despite analogies - classic method and grapes - it will be noticed how each wine will be different from the others thanks - in particular - to the respective production areas capable of giving the wines an absolutely unique character.

 Among the great wines which made great the history of Italian enology, Marsala is a wine to certainly be mentioned and, among the wineries which made great the history of this illustrious wine, Carlo Pellegrino - with its 125 years of activity - is among the protagonists. The history of Marsala - after its enological rebirth at the end of the 1700's - represents still today an extraordinary event in the scenery of important Italian wines and, undoubtedly, of the world. Carlo Pellegrino winery - founded in 1880 - has always paid particular attention on the production of this extraordinary wine, becoming the protagonist of a story that, after 125 years, is still found in its wines giving the noses of wine lovers a remarkable aromatic impact. In order to celebrate its centennial activity, Carlo Pellegrino wanted to remember this important goal by creating four new Marsalas and in particular two excellent Marsala Vergine. For the commercialization of the new range of Marsala - destined to restaurants and wine shops - Carlo Pellegrino will use a bottle whose aspect has expressly been designed for this occasion and in order to differentiate the new range from the current one.

 The new wines include a Marsala Fine Rubino, a Marsala Superiore Riserva Oro and two new Marsala Vergine Vintage, real rarities for every lover of the great Sicilian fortified wine. They are Marsala Vergine Riserva del Centenario 1980 - with 25 years of aging in cask - and Marsala Vergine Riserva 1962, a wonderful wine with 43 years of aging in cask. Because of this exceptional event, the two wines are available in limited quantities, in particular the 1962. These two prestigious wines are supported by the Marsala Vergine Soleras - Carlo Pellegrino is among the very few wineries in Marsala which still use the Soleras y Criaderas system - therefore confirming the historical commitment of the winery to this wine. The availability of these Marsala Vergine has allowed us to evaluate the three wines in a comparative tasting, therefore understanding the organoleptic development only the patient work of time can achieve and that with Marsala is always rich and surprising. After all, good Marsala - just like the three samples of our tasting - is always capable of giving emotions to the senses of every wine lovers who in a wine is always looking for the pleasure of complex, rich, surprising and charming aromas. And on this regard, good Marsala has always been a loyal companion of meditation.

 

Marsala Vergine Soleras
Carlo Pellegrino (Italy)
Grapes: Grillo
Price: € 10.00	Score:
The wine shows a brilliant amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with the characteristic hint of Marsala, dried fig and almond followed by aromas of date, licorice, walnut, orange marmalade, enamel and leather. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a hot attack and appreciable crispness, however balanced, full body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of dried fig, almond and date. This Marsala ages for more than 5 years in cask.
Food Match: Hard and piquant cheese, Almond confectionery

Marsala Vergine Riserva del Centenario 1980
Carlo Pellegrino (Italy)
Grapes: Grillo, Catarratto
Price: € 38.00	Score:
This Marsala shows an intense amber yellow and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of rancho, dried fig and orange marmalade followed by aromas of date, ethereal, licorice, porcino mushroom, honey, walnut, vanilla, enamel, coffee and leather. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a alcoholic attack and appreciable crispness, pleasing smoothness, however balanced, full body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of dried fig, almond and coffee. A well made wine. This Marsala ages in oak casks.
Food Match: Hard and piquant cheese, Almond tarts

Marsala Vergine Riserva 1962
Carlo Pellegrino (Italy)
Grapes: Grillo, Catarratto
Price: € 50.00	Score:
This Marsala shows a deep amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of rancho, almond and fig jam followed by aromas of dried apricot, date, leather, caramel, coffee, porcino mushroom, licorice, orange marmalade, walnut, hazelnut, tobacco, enamel and vanilla. The mouth has very good correspondence to the nose, an alcoholic attack and appreciable crispness, pleasing roundness, however balanced, full body, intense flavors. The finish is very persistent with long flavors of fig jam, almond, date, coffee and hazelnut. A great Marsala. This reserve ages in oak casks.
Food Match: Hard and piquant cheese, Almond tarts

 Vintage Tunina. Who, among wine lovers, has never heard about this renowned white wine, or, even better, has appreciated it? A name - Vintage Tunina - which is among the ones which made the recent history of Italian wines and that contributed to spread its fame in the world. The list of “important” wines could go on with Capo Martino and Were Dreams Have No Ends - which after years of success became “Were Dreams, Now It Is Just Wine!” - and that today is simply “W… Dreams…”, where in the place of dots everyone can use his or her fantasy and add their favorite words. Silvio Jermann likes to complete the name with Where Dreams Can Happen. These are the names of the most famous Silvio Jermann's wines, vintner in Farra d'Isonzo in the territory of Gorizia. Three great white wines. White wines only? Absolutely not. Silvio Jermann's passion gives us red wines as well, excellent red wines, such as Pignacolusse and Mjzzu Blau & Blau.

The Jermann family

 Everything began in 1881, when Silvio's great grandfather, Antonio Jermann of Austrian origins, moved to Villanova di Farra. The Jermanns first were farmers and then proprietors, when at the beginning of 1900's the wine production became the main business. Today the ancient winery is successfully run by Silvio Jermann, who applied his ideas and his thoughts to wine production and obtained a striking success worldwide. Silvio Jermann attends in 1968 the Enology School of Conegliano, learning the new techniques - at those times considered revolutionary and nonconformists according to the rigid Italian tradition - and that will allow him, in later times, to make great wines. His ideas were in contrast with the ones imposed by tradition which wanted - at those times - fat and heavy wines, therefore he flew to Canada and continued to increase his experience while thinking about that future which will have seen the wine the way he imagined.

 When he came back, Friuli Venezia Giulia is living a historical change led by other great figures of the region - in particular Mario Schiopetto - and Silvio Jermann finally sees the ideal conditions to impose his thoughts, his modern way to see wine. And it was Mario Schiopetto who encouraged the young Silvio Jermann to continue his wine studies at San Michele all'Adige Institute. It was then the end of alcoholic wines, with deep colors, dull in taste and not very attractive. It was the beginning of a new era for Jermann winery and for Friuli Venezia Giulia: less colored wines but richer in aromas and flavors, with a more modern taste and with a more evident personality, in other words, wines capable of attracting the soul of people. These are Silvio Jermann's wines, that after many years, still represent the excellence of Italian enology in the world.

 In particular, the excellent and celebrated “Vintage Tunina”, a masterpiece of impeccable and rare class, a brilliant example of how a great white wine can also be produced without using any cask or barrique. In fact, Vintage Tunina ferments and ages in steel tanks, longly in contact with its yeast. Vintage Tunina is a great marriage of international grapes - Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc - with the great and precious grapes of the region: Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and the rare Picolit. The first tasting tests are dated back to 1973 and it was commercialized for the first time in 1975. Vintage Tunina is a real grape blend - that is grapes are all vinified together - with very low yields of 40-60 quintals per hectare. The name Tunina originated from the old proprietor of the territory where the original vineyard was located - Antonia, which becomes Tunina in the local dialect - the poorest of Casanova's lovers and who worked in Venice as a house keeper. Today Vintage Tunina confirms - year after year - its great excellency and its fame: a great wine for which was written a lot and, we can be certain of this, a lot more will be written.

 The same is also true for the other Silvio Jermann's white wines, all being of excellent quality and elegance. In particular the current “W… Dreams…”, evolution of that renowned wine born in 1987 with the name Where the Dreams Have No Ends and dedicated to U2's album “The Joshua Tree” and in particular to the “Where the Streets Have No Name” song. Mainly produced with Chardonnay aged in small barrels, this is also a wine which contributed to boost Silvio Jermann to the top of enology. The same also happened for the more “recent” Capo Martino - produced for the first time in 1991 in occasion of the 110 years of activity of Jermann family at Villanova di Farra - made from dried Tocai Friulano grape and Ribolla Gialla, the two great whites of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Capo Martino ages for 11 months in cask followed by 7 months of aging in bottle: an excellent result which collected many successes and appreciation everywhere in the world.

 The wonders of Silvio Jermann winery are not represented by white wines only. Surprises also come from red wines, two excellent examples of class and elegance. The first one is Pignacolusse, curious name derived from Pigna (Italian for pine cone) - that is from Pignolo grape used for its production - and Colusse, name of the vineyard. Pignolo - an autochthonous grape of Friuli Venezia Giulia - was destined to extinction, fortunately revaluated by the wineries of the region, has in this wine one of the most representative examples, therefore confirming its extraordinary qualities. The other red from Silvio Jermann is Mjzzu Blau & Blau, mainly produced with Blaufränkisch grape and a small part of Pinot Noir. Silvio Jermann remembers that when he was a kid he heard his grandfather talking about a vineyard of Blaufränkisch. After many years he decided to plant again this grape variety, as a tribute to the mitteleuropean origins of the Jermann family. The wine was dedicated to Sylvia Tunina - Silvio Jermann's daughter - who was born the same day in which Vintage Tunina was awarded as the best Italian white wine.