At the end of summertime - when most of the people still think about their vacation - the ones involved in wine business mainly think about the forthcoming vintage, while trying to foresee how the harvest will be and what they can get from the cellar. Their thoughts are absolutely understandable and legitimate; after all, depending on how the harvest will be, they will get their profits while wishing to be able to offer consumers good - hopefully very good - quality wines. For wine lovers instead, this is the period in which they try to get as much information as possible about the wines which will be then poured in their glasses. Two ways to see the “result of vintage”, however being interesting in both cases. Even this year - punctually - there were some rumors about this subject, both from producers as well as from professional association involved in wine business. Concerning the previsions for vintage 2005 in Italy, it seems we are having good and bad news at the same time.

 There are good news because, according to what has been said, the overall quality of grapes - and therefore of wines - has increased since 2004; bad news because the quantity of grapes which will be harvested in vineyards is lesser than the last year. Whether we can be happy of the fact in 2005 we will have very good quality wines, on the other hand, the lesser quantity which will be produced further confirms - and not only for reasons connected to the meteorological conditions of the year - the non very happy period the marketing and the consumption of wine are facing. In fact, many wineries still have in their cellars unsold bottles of the last vintage, therefore increasing the production with the harvesting of 2005 does not seem to be a good solution. According to what it is said, it is more likely many of these bottles will take the way of distillation, therefore meeting truly different glasses, very different from the ones generally used for wine.

 Let's proceed with order. According to the previsions of CIA, the Italian Confederation of Agriculturists, released at the beginning of August, it seems the overall quality of vintage 2005 will be pretty high, among the best ones in the last ten years and it will certainly surpass 2001, even with diffused excellent cases, just like 1997. A prevision which can certainly make happy both producers and wine lovers. Also according to what Italian Confederation of Agriculturists said, the quantity which will be harvested this year will be lesser of about 10% than 2004. These news, to tell the truth, do not worry that much: vintage 2004 was considered by everyone as abundant in terms of quantity and, in particular, it set a reprise - indeed, a return to normality - after the non truly happy 2002 and 2003 vintages. Moreover, according to the number of bottles produced in 2004 and still unsold because of the general crisis of which the market of wine is subject to, a lesser production in terms of quantity seems to be providentially coherent with what is happening in consumptions.

 Anyway, we still have the good news about the prevision of a very good quality 2005, better than 2001 - which certainly was a good vintage - and that will even surpass 1997. All this, of course, in general terms and provided there would have not been “bad surprises” in September, a fundamental month for the fate of vineyards. The meteorological conditions for 2005 have been pretty different - of course - in the many regions of Italy. Whereas in the northern part there was a cold winter with little rains, in the southern regions, rains have been pretty abundant. Temperature played the role of “condition equalizer”, which was everywhere pretty low. The arrive of the hot temperatures - even since the end of springtime - has made the ripening of grapes harder, however the subsequent conditions allowed a normal process and seemed to ensure a harvesting in pretty normal times and conditions. According to previsions, the harvesting will begin with early ripening varieties from the half of August in the southern regions and in the islands, then it will follow in the other regions, whereas late ripening varieties will be harvested during October. This is what can be said according to previsions, even though it is good to remember that at the end of August and during September, in some Italian areas there have been rains and hail which have damaged vineyards.

 According to the previsions of Italian Confederation of Agriculturists, the production of wine in Italy for 2005 will be something less than 50 millions of hectoliters, with a slight decreasing in respect of the abundant 2004 of about 10%. Veneto - with its about 8 millions of hectoliters - will be confirmed as the most productive Italian region, followed by Emilia Romagna, Apulia and Sicily, all virtually occupying the second rank with about 6 millions and 600 thousand hectoliters. As for the other regions, the production will be of about 3 millions and half for Abruzzo, between 2 and 3 millions of hectoliters for Piedmont, Tuscany and Latium and between one and 2 millions of hectoliters for Campania, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Trentino Alto Adige and Lombardy. The other regions will have a production lesser than one million of hectoliters, from 20 thousand of Vallée d'Aoste to 900 thousand for Umbria. Despite the decreasing of the production, there will however be an increasing of grapes destined to appellation wines (DOCG, DOC and IGT) whereas it is expected a decreasing for the production of table wines having no appellation.

 As for the acreage destined to the cultivation of vineyards, it has been recorded a decreasing in the whole territory of Italy, in particular in Sicily, Latium, Sardinia and Basilicata. Despite of this, Sicily is still the Italian region having the largest acreage, together with Apulia, Veneto and Tuscany. The region having the highest quantity to hectare ratio is Emilia Romagna with 120 hectoliters per hectare, whereas the last position is occupied by Sardinia with 24. Rigidity of previsions and numbers apart, the news of having an excellent vintage - they say among the best ones in the last ten years - certainly is the best thing we would have known about. However it will be necessary to wait for the reality of facts and the will of Mother Nature - in the hope it will be benevolent and will not change this good prevision - as well as the good job wine makers will do in their cellars. We just have to wait, always ready with our loyal glasses that - with joy - we will be ready to raise to welcome the very good vintage 2005 with a happy toast, in the hope it will not disappoint expectations as well as our senses.

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 Sardinia certainly is one of the most charming places of Italy, not only for the natural wonders found in this island, but also for its very ancient and rich traditions; an indissoluble heritage from culture, from places and from people who live here. Rich traditions and cultures which are also found in the ancient heritage of cooking, made of the many traditions which are found in the many areas and places of Sardinia, including wine, which in this land represents an important element of identity and history. From white wines to reds, an enological path also passing in the other styles and, among them, authentic rarities, extraordinary representatives of the island's wine making, such as Malvasia di Bosa and Vernaccia di Oristano. Two wonderful examples of wines with an extraordinary ancient taste, which give their best with very long times of aging.

 Sardinia has worth representatives in other wines as well - or better to say - in other grapes too. Vermentino is the most renowned white berried grape of the island and from which are being produced - in the whole territory of the region - excellent wines. Cannonau is still the most famous red berried grape of the island, even though since many years other red grapes are getting more and more famous thanks to the excellent results they produced in wine making: Carignan and Bovale. The richness of grapes in Sardinia goes beyond the ones already mentioned and which represent the most famous ones outside the region. In fact, Sardinia has a pretty interesting heritage of autochthonous grapes and, despite many of them have been introduced by Spaniards, after centuries of adaptation in the territory, today are being considered among the typical grapes of the region. Of course, here are also found the so called international grapes which are usually added to local varieties, as well as typical grapes from other Italian regions, such as Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Barbera.

Sardinia

 According to archaeological studies and researches, vine and wine are present in Sardinia since about 5,000 years. In fact, are dated back to this era the first findings of amphoras and cups in the area occupied by Nuraghi, the ancient people who lived in the island. Despite the age of these archaeological findings, it is believed vine was introduced in Sardinia by Phoenicians, during the period in which they occupied the island. In fact, it is believed the introduction of the vitis vinifera occurred in the seventeenth century b.C., in particular in the colonies of Tharros, Othoca, Cornus, Bithia, Karalis and Noca, all being situated in the western coast. Another important archaeological discovery - dated back to the fourth century b.C., in Roman times - witnesses the historical importance of the wine in the island. In 1984, near the Nuraghe Arrubiu di Orrioli - in the province of Nuoro - has been found a “wine making laboratory” with vessels and tanks for the fermentation and aging of wine. In the course of the diggings were also found some grape pips belonging to unidentifiable varieties.

 Because of the strategic geographical position of the island in the Mediterranean, Sardinia has been - in the course of the centuries - subject to conquests by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Aragonese, Genovese, Pisans and - finally - by Sabaudi. Because of the influence of the people who dominated the island, viticulture and wine making has been strongly affected by the traditions and cultures of the many people, while living alternates periods of decay and of truly splendor. Among the people who mainly contributed to the development of enology in the island, are remembered the ones coming from the Aegean sea and from the Iberian peninsula. In fact, these people introduced new and fundamental viticultural and enological techniques, as well as the introduction of new grape varieties, still today found in Sardinia where they play an important role. Many of the famous grapes of Sardinia - such as Cannonau and Carignan - have been introduced by Spaniards, however the quantity of autochthonous grapes is pretty interesting and capable of making very good wines.

 A fundamental event for the viticulture of Sardinia - as well as for its agriculture - was represented by the promulgation of Carta De Logu. It was in 1392 Eleonora di Arborea - by continuing the job done by her father Mariano IV - promulgated this important document which regulated the viticulture and agriculture until 1827. Carta De Logu had in its goals, the purpose of increasing, safeguarding and incentivizing the cultivation of the vine and the production of wine. Moreover, there were also emanated heavy fines and corporal penalties to anyone not obeying to Carta De Logu's laws, which also provided the cut of the hand to anyone who fired vineyards or furtively uprooted vineyards. To the ones who did not plant vineyards in their lands, they were confiscated and given to others capable of working them. At the end of feudal times, rural property was abolished and many lands were therefore destined to pastures, then, in 1736 - thanks to marquis of Rivarolo - Carta De Logu was reintroduced again, therefore contributing to the development of viticulture in Sardinia.

 It was in this period wines of Sardinia began to become popular outside the borders of the region, in particular Cannonau produced in the areas near Nuoro, Vermentino di Gallura, Vernaccia di Oristano, Malvasia di Bosa, Monica passito (sweet), Girò, Moscato and Nasco. The development of wine making in Sardinia - here as it was everywhere else - was stopped with the arrive of phylloxera: only the vineyards planted in sandy soils could be saved. It was just in the beginning of the 1950's viticulture in Sardinia could resume its development thanks to the establishment of countless cooperative wineries. In this period the production was mainly attracted by quantity instead of quality, in particular for colored and concentrated red wines, with high alcohol volume, frequently used for strengthening other wines. With the introduction of quality production - which requires low yields in vineyards - many of cooperative and private wineries of Sardinia ended their business. This event - here as well as in other Italian regions - has allowed wines of Sardinia to reach the current remarkable quality levels, including the historical and typical wines of the island produced with autochthonous grapes.

 Wines of Sardinia are classified according to the quality system in force in Italy. In Sardinia are currently defined 19 DOC areas (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata, Denomination of Controlled Origin) and one DOCG (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita, Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin), recognized to Vermentino di Gallura. The production of Sardinia is pretty vast and interesting: besides white and red wines, in the island are also produced excellent sweet wines as well as a wine with an ancient and complex taste: Vernaccia di Oristano, which would certainly deserve a better attention. The 19 DOC ares of Sardinia are: Alghero, Arborea, Campidano di Terralba, Cannonau di Sardegna, Carignano del Sulcis, Girò di Cagliari, Malvasia di Bosa, Malvasia di Cagliari, Mandrolisai, Monica di Cagliari, Monica di Sardegna, Moscato di Cagliari, Moscato di Sardegna, Moscato di Sorso-Sennori, Nasco di Cagliari, Nuragus di Cagliari, Semidano di Sardegna, Vermentino di Sardegna and Vernaccia di Oristano. In Sardinia - just like in other regions of Italy - the production of IGT wines (Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Typical Geographical Indication), is very rich and interesting, in which autochthonous grapes are frequently used with the so called international varieties.

 In Sardinia the vine is cultivated in the whole territory of the region and many DOC wines are being produced in the entire territory of the island. Sardinia has a pretty rich heritage of autochthonous grapes and the ones introduced in the past centuries by the people who controlled its dominion, are now considered as local grapes. In the island is also recorded a presence of international grapes generally used in the production of wines and added to the local varieties. Despite in the whole region are being produced different wine styles, in Sardinia is found a sort of territorial division in the preference of production for specific styles. Whereas in the central and northern parts there is a higher production of white wines, the production of red wines is mainly concentrated in the southern part of the island. The main white berried grapes of Sardinia are: Malvasia Bianca, Malvasia di Sardegna, Nasco, Nuragus, Semidano, Torbato, Vermentino and Vernaccia di Oristano. As for red grapes, here are mentioned the main ones: Bovale, Caddiu, Cagnulari, Cannonau, Carignano, Girò, Monica and Nieddera.

 The white berried grape with which are produced the most famous wines of Sardinia certainly is Vermentino. Despite this grape makes very good wines in the whole territory of the island, Gallura - the territory found in the northern part of the region - is the most classic and representative area. Vermentino di Gallura - the only DOCG wine of Sardinia - is extremely interesting, in particular the superior style, which, according to the disciplinary, it must have at least 13,5% of alcohol by volume. The main characteristic of this wine, of average structure, is represented by its evident aromas and flavors of almond. According to historical facts, Vermentino arrived in Gallura after 1850, probably coming from France after having passed Corse, the island where it is still cultivated. In Gallura Vermentino is the most cultivated grape and represents about 80% of total production, whereas the rest is represented by Muscat Blanc, Bovale, Caricagiola and Nebbiolo, the renowned grape from Langhe, Piedmont, here used for the production of interesting IGT wines.

 The most famous red berried grape of Sardinia - as well as the most cultivated one in the region - is Cannonau. Despite historians agree on the fact Cannonau was introduced in Sardinia during the dominion of Spaniards, it is not clear what is the original variety to which it belongs to. In fact, it is believed Cannonau is pretty similar to Canonazo - common in the area of Seville - as well as to Granaxo of Aragon and, finally - being the most common hypothesis - similar to Grenache Noir. Cannonau is cultivated in the whole region, however the most typical area is in the province of Nuoro, where are found three of the four Cannonau di Sardegna sub areas: Oliena, Nepente di Oliena and Jerzu. The fourth sub area - Capo Ferrato - is located in the southern part of the island in the province of Cagliari. Cannonau makes wines - in particular the ones of the Oliena area - with high alcohol volumes and robust structures, however the introduction of modern technologies allows today the production of excellent and very balanced Cannonau wines. Because of its low acidity, Cannonau is also vinified together with other grapes, usually autochthonous, in order to improve the gustatory balance.

 Vernaccia di Oristano is one of the most suggestive wines of Sardinia and which would certainly deserve a better attention and consideration by consumers. Vernaccia di Oristano is also one of the most ancient wines of Sardinia - the first historical information are dated back to the 1300's - and it is also the first wine of the region to which was recognized the DOC status, in 1972. The wine is produced with the homonymous white grape, which is probably autochthonous of Sardinia. Despite Vernaccia di Oristano is legitimately considered a white wine, its production is pretty different from the wine making techniques used for these wines. Vinification and aging are still done according to ancient traditional methods, a process which frequently makes Vernaccia di Oristano to be considered similar to Spanish Jerez (Sherry), indeed it has its own and precise identity. The aging of Vernaccia di Oristano is done in partially filled chestnut cask, in which develop a colony of yeast (flor) which will give the wine - after tens of years - complex and unique organoleptic qualities. Time represents the main secret for this wine, as it improves as years passes by and with proper aging it can express extraordinary aromas of almond, hazelnut and its typical rancho aroma.

 Besides the grapes and wines already mentioned, there must also be cited other typical varieties of Sardinia and from which are being produced interesting wines. One of the most interesting is the famous Malvasia di Bosa, produced in limited quantities, with a sweet taste and that with time improves by increasing its complexity and charm. As for sweet wines, there should be mentioned Moscato di Cagliari, Moscato di Sardegna and Moscato di Sorso-Sennori. Among white berried grapes should be mentioned Nuragus which, after having been the main grape of the island in terms of quantity, today - thanks to the modern wine making techniques - it is capable of producing good quality wines, different from the ones of the past, considered “rustic” and modest. For the Alghero area are mentioned the wines produced with Torbato grape - of Spanish origin - both whites and sparkling. Among red berried grapes, are mentioned the excellent results obtained in the last years with Carignan grape: elegant full bodied wines which reached the top of Sardinia's enology. Other interesting red grapes of Sardinia used for the production of wines include Monica, Cagnulari, Nieddera and Bovale, frequently used together with Cannonau and Carignan.

 Tasting sweet wines - the ones produced with dried grapes, naturally dried in the vine or exposed to air after harvesting - is like traveling in the past, in that magic world capable of impressing with rich and charming aromas and tastes. A journey in the past because, in ancient Greek and Roman times, wines were mainly sweet - dry wines will be produced in later times - a magic world because aromas and tastes these wines can develop do not compare to any other wine style. Even in later times, sweet wines were considered rare and valuable, a real status symbol for those times and that were usually found in the tables of rich and noble people also for impressing their guests. just like any other wine, progresses and development made by wine making technologies have introduced changes - sometimes even drastically - in the production of sweet wines, frequently adapting them to the taste of our times, although keeping intact their charm, value and prestige.

 Being sweet is not enough for a wine in order to reach the Olympus of quality and prestige. Just like any other style - and in sweet wines this factor is even more important - the quality of grapes and of production techniques represent a fundamental requisite. Whether making an excellent wine is difficult, making an excellent sweet wines is even more difficult. A necessary premise: in this specific context, we are exclusively talking about those wines whose sweetness is exclusively produced by grape sugar - generally obtained by concentration as a consequence of withering - not certainly about those wines to which sugar is added at the end of vinification. It is the withering process - the phase in which the quantity of water contained in the berry is drastically reduced - which allows the making of the “miracle” of sugar concentration as well as of grape's aromatic and organoleptic qualities. Moreover, the organoleptic qualities of the grape are transformed, are being developed characteristics - like to say - more complex and richer than the ones of fresh grape, therefore allowing the wine to get its charming quality.

	The wines selected for our comparative tasting

 The wines selected for our comparative tasting, are all produced with dried grapes belonging to the category of aromatic varieties, that is which develop aromas directly recalling the one of grape. Only one of these wines was fermented in barrique: this will let us understand the influence of wood in the production of aromatic sweet wines. The wines we are going to compare in our tasting are produced with three classic examples of aromatic grapes used in Italy for the production of sweet wines: Muscat Blanc, Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) and Malvasia delle Lipari, the latter to be considered as a semi aromatic variety. Muscat Blanc - despite the fact it is present in many Italian regions - is the most typical grape in Piedmont for the production of sweet wines, including sparkling wines. Zibibbo is the most common grape in Sicily for the production of sweet wines and - in particular - at Pantelleria island, where it is being produced the homonymous sweet wine. Finally, Malvasia delle Lipari is the queen grape in the Eolian islands and with which is being produced the homonymous grape, in particular at Salina island.

 The tasting will have as a purpose the study of organoleptic analogies typical in sweet wines produced with aromatic grapes, as well as to understand how the use of wood influences this style of wines. The only wine fermented in barrique selected for our tasting is Franco Mondo's Moscato Passito Sileo, a sweet wine produced with 100% Muscat Blanc and fermented in barrique. We will use this wine to compare two classic examples of sweet wines from Sicily, none of them being fermented or aged in wood. The first one is Donnafugata's Moscato di Pantelleria Ben Ryé, produced with 100% Muscat of Alexandria grape - locally called Zibibbo - in the famous island of wind. The aging of this wine is done in steel tanks which is then followed by an aging of 4 months in bottle. The third and last wine is Carlo Hauner's Malvasia delle Lipari Passito, produced with 95% of the homonimous grape and the remaining 5% with Corinto Nero. The wine is aged for 18 months in inert containers and for 6 months in bottle. For our tasting we will use three ISO tasting glasses and the three wines will be served at a temperature of 14°C (57°F), in order to allow aromas to properly develop without excessively accentuating the sweet taste.

 Let's begin our comparative tasting by analyzing the appearance of the wines: we will then need to pour all the three wines in the respective glasses. Despite this could seem obvious to many, the first element we get from a preliminary observation of the three wines is offered by color. The three wines are all produced with white berried grapes, with the only exception being represented by Malvasia delle Lipari in which is present a small percentage of Corinto Nero, a red berried grape. As opposed to dry white wines, in which are usually observed colors ranging from straw yellow to golden yellow of variable intensity, in sweet wines colors get pretty intense and deep hues, from golden yellow to dark amber yellow. The reason for this deeper intensity of the color is mainly because of the drying process, during which both the skin and the pulp of the grape get a darker color which will be then passed to the wine. Longer drying times will give darker and more intense colors, as well as a higher concentration of organoleptic qualities and a higher loss of water.

 The first wine we will examine is Franco Mondo's Piemonte Moscato Passito Sileo. The color of this wine shows a brilliant amber yellow and - by tilting the glass over a white surface - will be noticed nuances of the same color. Despite this wine was fermented in barrique, if we compare its color to the other two wines, we will notice the wood factor seems not to have contributed in an evident way on the color. The second wine we will examine is Donnafugata's Moscato di Pantelleria Ben Ryé. By holding the glass in vertical position, it will be observed an intense amber yellow color and - by tilting the glass over a white surface - will be noticed amber yellow nuances. The appearance of this second wine, fermented in inert containers, is pretty similar to Piemonte Moscato Passito Sileo, which is fermented in barrique instead. The last wine we will examine is Carlo Hauner's Malvasia delle Lipari. The color of this wine - although still showing an amber yellow hue - is more intense than the previous ones, and the same can be observed in nuances. It is good to remember in this wine is present a small quantity of Corinto Nero, a red berried grape.

 The olfactory analysis of the three wines will let us understand the typical qualities of the so called aromatic grapes. It is appropriate to remember only those grapes whose wines are characterized by a clear aroma of grape are considered as aromatic. In our case, only Muscat Blanc - present in Sileo - and Muscat of Alexandria - present in Ben Ryé and called Zibibbo in Sicily - are to be considered aromatic, whereas Malvasia delle Lipari - just like any other grape belonging to this family - is considered a semi aromatic variety. As our goal is to study the aromatic qualities of the three wines, it will be appropriate to serve them at a temperature of about 14°C (57°F). Although higher temperatures would have exalted the aromatic qualities of the wines even more, this condition would have caused an excessive exaltation of the sweet taste, therefore making the wines too sweet. Because these are aromatic grapes - that is capable of developing aromas of strong intensity - we could have served them at a lower temperature, however we would have penalized the other complex aromas which require higher temperatures in order to develop.

 The first wine we will examine is Carlo Hauner's Malvasia delle Lipari. From the first smell - done by holding the glass still - will be perceived opening aromas of raisin, apricot jam, dried fig and almond. After having swirled the glass - operation that will favor the oxygenation of wine and will allow a better development of aromas - will be done a second smell in which will be perceived aromas of peach jam, orange marmalade, hazelnut, orange skin, candied fruit, date, honey and - at the end - a pleasing hint of rosemary. We will now proceed with the olfactory evaluation of Donnafugata's Moscato Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé. The first smell - by holding the glass still - will reveal aromas of raisin, although having a character of freshness, dried fig and candied fruit, aromas that we have already found in Malvasia delle Lipari. The second smell - done by swirling the glass - will allow the perception of aromas of apricot jam, peach jam, date, almond, litchi, lavender, orange skin and honey. Despite the fact these are two different wines, we found many analogies already.

 Let's now evaluate Franco Mondo's Piemonte Moscato Passito Sileo. The opening aromas are characterized by raisin, even in this case similar to fresh grape, as well as fig jam, whereas in the second smell - done after having swirled the glass - will be perceived aromas of candied fruit, apricot jam, quince jam, peach jam, date, almond, lavender, orange skin, honey, orange marmalade and vanilla. It is good to remember this wine is fermented in barrique: despite of this, vanilla seems to be the only aromatic factor the wood passed to wine and the aromatic qualities of the grape continues to be perfectly perceivable. Of course, this consideration is specifically valid for this wine: a different use of barrique would give an obviously different aromatic result. Also note how many aromas are present in all the three wines, in particular the ones of raisin, apricot jam, peach jam and dried fig. These aromas are generally found in sweet wines produced with dried aromatic grapes. Finally, note that whether it is true in dry wines produced with aromatic grapes the aroma of grape is perceived as fresh, in sweet wines produced with the same dried grapes, this aroma evolves as raisin.

 As for the gustatory analysis, saying the main characteristic perceived during the tasting of this style of wines is the sweet taste is of course obvious and useless. Despite this is the dominant gustatory quality, it is also evident this is not the only quality. Because of the intense sweet taste, most of the times the other organoleptic sensations are ignored, in particular acidity, a determinant quality - together with alcohol - in order to have a perfect balance. Therefore, by considering this premise, during the taste of these wines it is good to pay particular attention not on their sweet taste, indeed on all the other organoleptic qualities and their efficiency in balancing the strength of sweetness. Acidity, alcohol, roundness and - in case of wines fermented or aged in cask - astringency, are qualities to be scrupulously considered during the analysis of sweet wines. Let's begin by analyzing Carlo Hauner's Malvasia delle Lipari: the first sip will emphasize the sweet taste, however wine's roundness should be carefully evaluated, the alcohol volume and - in particular - the appreciable acidity which makes this Malvasia very balanced. Also note the excellent correspondence of aromas perceived in the nose to the flavors perceived in the mouth.

 The second wine we are going to evaluate is Donnafugata's Moscato di Pantelleria Ben Ryé. The first impact is clearly characterized by the sweet taste, however let's pay attention on the intense raisin flavor, stronger than the previous wine. Even in this wine, roundness is a dominant quality, an effect caused - among the other things - by the quantity of residual sugar. Let's now pay attention on acidity: even in this case its contribution is determinant on wine's balance. The last wine we will examine is Franco Mondo's Piemonte Moscato Passito Sileo. After the intense sweetness perceived at the beginning, let's pay attention, once again, to the strong raisin taste: this quality is - just like the previous wines - a characteristic in sweet wines produced with aromatic grapes. Besides acidity - fundamental for the balance - also note how in this wine it is possible to perceive a slight astringency - a clear effect of the fermentation in barrique - which does not however disturb and contributes to balance sweetness very well. After having swallowed every single wine, note how the acid taste tends to reveal in the mouth together with the sweetness sensation.

 Saying sweet wines are very pleasing and charming to taste, is something truly obvious. The charm of these wines is mainly appreciable in the gustatory analysis, also thanks to the predilection of human beings for sweet taste. Indeed, the most interesting thing to observe after having swallowed the wine, is the long taste-olfactory persistence. All the three wines are characterized by long and pleasing taste-olfactory persistence with strong flavors recalling their aromas, in particular raisin, dried fig, almond and apricot jam. The long gustatory persistence in these wines is one of the fundamental qualities for the appreciation of sweet wines produced with aromatic grapes. A good sweet wine produced with aromatic grape should have always been characterized by a long gustatory persistence, just like the wines of our tasting. Finally, it is appropriate to remember the aroma of raisin - typical in aromatic grapes - can also be found in other sweet wines produced with other grapes, however it is in aromatic wines it expresses all of its strength, to which it is frequently added the aroma of fresh grape as well.

 A legend originated from an idea. This is what could be told about the most famous wine of Conte Loredan Gasparini - Capo di Stato - when they thought about creating a wine to be served during official events in the city of Venice. Official and special occasions as in the case of a dinner who had among its guests the former president of French Republic Charles de Gaulle. It was in the occasion of the dinner held at Hotel Gritti of Venice that Charles de Gaulle had the opportunity to drink Capo di Stato and to appreciate its quality: the famous president of the French Republic became one of its most illustrious supporters. Capo di Stato then became a celebrity worldwide and was seen as an emblem of Italian wine quality, proving - among the many things - that great Bordelais wines could be created in Italy as well. Conte Loredan Gasparini winery, of course, is not Capo di Stato only: other famous wines are being produced by this winery, including Venegazzù della Casa and Falconera rosso, as to mention some names.

A view from top of Conte Loredan Gasparini winery

 Conte Loredan Gasparini winery is located at Venegazzù di Volpago del Montello - in Veneto, in the heart of marca trevigiana north from Treviso - in an area renowned for the production of wines since the sixteenth century. In 1590 the historian Boniface wrote about the area and the wines of this land in his Historia Trevigiana: «The area of Trevigi has woods useful for gathering wood and for hunting… The land produces… very good wines and the best is the one from riviera di Montello», a territory mainly made of clay rich in iron and mineral components. The winery was established in the 1950's by count Piero Loredan, direct descendant of the Doge of Venice Leonardo Loredan, who chose the territory of Vignigazzu to build his house in a splendid palladian villa. Since 1973 the Conte Loredan Gasparini winery is property of Mr. Giancarlo Palla, who is in charge - among the other things - of the direction of the winery which today covers an area of 80 hectares (197 acres).

 Since the years of the foundation, count Piero Loredan planted in his vineyards the grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Manzoni Bianco (Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13, a cross between Riesling and Pinot Blanc) and Chardonnay. His main goal was to start a production of high quality wines based on the example of the enology of Bordeaux. It was also built a cellar for aging wines, today completely modernized and integrated with French oak barriques (Nevers, Tronçais and Allier) and Slovenian oak, which were added to the traditional casks of 25 hectoliters volume (660 gallons) for the aging of wines. Moreover, it was also built an underground cellar - which covers a surface of about 1,500 square meters (about 1790 square yards) - purposely built for the aging in bottle of classic method sparkling wines.

	Mr. Giancarlo Palla, owner of Conte Loredan Gasparini winery

 In the winery are also produced very good white wines, as well as a Prosecco produced with the grapes coming from the vineyards located in the DOC Montello e Colli Asolani area. Despite the very good quality of its whites, Conte Loredan Gasparini winery is famous for its red wines, including Capo di Stato e Venegazzù della Casa, the red wine which is cited in the entries of the important and authoritative Treccani Encyclopedia. Venegazzù della Casa is a wine unique in its genre and produced in limited quantities from the vineyards cultivated in the area having the same name. Venegazzù della Casa was created in the 1950's as the result of a scrupulous selection of grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. A Bordelais wine which represents since many years the very good production of this winery.

 Also Capo di Stato is produced with a scrupulous selection of hand harvested grapes and in different periods. Part of the grapes come from the eldest vineyard of the winery “100 piante” (100 plants) and the remaining part from “Falconera” vineyard, located near Loredan villa where once was practiced hawk hunting. From the same vineyard also come the grapes for the very good Falconera Rosso produced with Cabernet and Merlot. Other particularity of the Capo di Stato is represented by its label. In 1967 the paduan artist Tono Zancanaro (1906-1985) - in order to express his admiration for this excellent Bordelais wine - drew the image of the young boy which still today dresses every bottle of Capo di Stato. The artist dedicated to the wine two works which resemble the masculine soul of wine and the feminine soul of grape, that - with their union - give origin to a new and same origin. From that moment on “des roses pour madame” “…et pour Monsieur la bombe” became the image for Capo di Stato's label.

 The union between grape and Conte Loredan Gasparini winery is not limited to the production of wines only. The pomace of grapes used for the production of wine is in fact distilled by Antica Distilleria Negroni - which is property of the winery - for the production of grappa. The pomace of the best Conte Loredan Gasparini's wines therefore continue to tell their stories in the small grappa glasses. With the pomace of Prosecco grape is produced the homonymous grappa, whereas with the pomace of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Blanc and Prosecco is produced the Grappa di Venegazzù “Riva Vecia”. The same fate is reserved to Capo di Stato's pomace and from which it is distilled the grappa having the same name, result of the research and of experimentation about distillation. All of the Conte Loredan Gasparini's grappas are being produced according to the traditional bainmarie discontinuous method.

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