Springtime is now over and winter is a cold memory, June has been a little crazy and unpredictable - as to make us remember in its beginning January, the month having its same initial - and we are finally arrived to summertime. The hot season of the year makes us putting aside the large and showy glasses, in order to leave the scene to smaller and slimmer ones, to ice buckets and to bottles having evidently lighter colors, at least when observed in transparency. The cyclic fashion of wine continuously repeats itself: in this period of the year the full bodied and thick reds leave the scene to the protagonists of summertime, white and rose wines, sparkling and lightly sparkling wines. Not only a custom associated to the fact these wines are usually served at low temperatures - therefore more appropriate to the summer heat - but also because they are considered “lighter” and therefore more suitable for summertime.

 If it is true for most of the year the red wines are the ones to be mainly preferred by consumers, in summertime white, rose and sparkling wines take their revenge. In fact, in summertime, these wines are the ones to be mainly preferred by consumers, not only consumed during meals, but also used for making wine beverages - the so called “wine drinks” - and as aperitifs. In particular sparkling wines, which are getting a renewed interest going beyond their typical role, that is of “special” wine to be uncorked in occasion of holidays or particular moments only. There are more and more consumers who realize the pleasure of matching their meals with a good bottle of sparkling wine, in particular during hot seasons when the heat is mainly suffered. It is also true this renewed interest has begun some years ago, when in banquets and in formal receptions, sparkling wines appeared again also served as aperitifs.

 This has certainly been an important step forward which allowed sparkling wines to begin again to come out from cellars also before Christmas time or New Year's eve. A similar trend is also happening for rose wines which, with lot of efforts, are slowly trying to get more attention from consumers. This is also because of appropriate initiatives which were capable of catching the attention of consumers towards this pleasing wine style, also thanks to the efforts of producers in order to increase the quality of their rose wines. Those dark and not very dignified times are now a distant memory - although recent - when rose wines were mainly produced with pretty disputable quality methods and consumers preferred to have something else, as they did not find in rose wines neither quality or agreeability. However rose wines are truly pleasing products and they can be served at low temperatures, as low as white wines, therefore suited for warm seasons. Moreover, according to an enogastronomical point of view, whenever a white is “too little” and a red is “too much”, in most of the cases the solution is represented by a rose wine.

 On the other hand, white wines have always had their followers - although with significative oscillations both in consumption as well as in the preference for certain grapes - and in particular women who generally prefer whites to reds, possibly produced with aromatic grapes, such as Gewürztraminer, Müller Thurgau and Muscat Blanc. Women are not the only ones to show their preference for aromatic grapes: men frequently show an interest for the aromas of these grapes coming out from their glasses. White wine has represented a pretty significative fashion of the past, as to make consumer lose their interest for red wines, by creating an alternation which made some grapes famous in specific periods. If it is true Chardonnay represents today the most appreciated grape by consumers, as well as the most used one in cellar, in past times it was Pinot Gris to be mainly successful. As everyone knows, fashions come and go like seasons - and sometimes they also return - and therefore also Pinot Gris had its moment of glory therefore leaving the scene to other grapes, including the vehement return of red wines.

 During the warm season, the nectars of Bacchus are left in the cellar by many and in the glasses are preferred white wines instead. These wines - as we said - are certainly in good company because they are more and more joined by rose and sparkling wines, both Charmat method and classic method. Among white wines, the ones to be mainly consumed in summertime, the ones to be generally preferred are the ones having good crispness and aromas, possibly low in alcohol - such as certain wines made with Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling - that is a wine to be drunk at a low temperature and appropriate for the heat of summer days. In this renewed seasonal interest for white wines, also autochthonous grapes are successful, in particular in those places where tourists go, who, with the occasion of a vacation, can also satisfy the curiosity of appreciating the local white grapes transformed into wine. In a country like Italy, where every region of the boot has its traditional grapes, the choice of the so called “autochthonous” wines is rich in surprises and, last but not the least, in good products.

 The preference for white, sparkling and rose wines during hot seasons is also justified by the foods which usually characterize summertime meals. Lighter foods, frequently raw and slightly seasoned, fish, crustaceans, rice and pasta with delicate and light sauces: the rich and opulent preparations of wintertime, which can be well matched to red wines, are not preferred by people in this period. Therefore a fresh and pleasing white wine, as well as a rose or a sparkling wine, besides refreshing the palate, allows a better enogastronomical matching with summertime foods. And if for a short time of the year red wines are almost forgotten and are allowed to rest for the future cold seasons, the ones who prefer and mainly consume this type of wine should not take offense. After all, also the diversity and the curiosity of changing, to discover - or to rediscover - new things, is part of the pleasing organoleptic and sensorial aspect of wine and, last but not the least, its conscious and moderate consumption, represent one of the many surprising aspects of the beverage of Bacchus. And in case a good glass of fresh wine appreciated during a summer night makes you feel like having another one and then one more, remember it is not quantity making the pleasure of wine. Enjoy your vacations and see you in September!

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 Among the first regions which come to mind when talking about Italian wine, Tuscany certainly is one of the first. Mainly famous for red wines produced with Sangiovese grape - including Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Tuscany is also appreciated for red wines produced with the main “international” grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Despite they are less famous, in Tuscany are also produced some interesting white wines, and just like for red wines, the production is made both with autochthonous grapes - such as Vernaccia di San Gimignano - and international grapes, in particular Chardonnay. Tuscany is also famous for the production of Vin Santo, certainly not the only region of Italy in which this particular sweet wine is produced with dried grapes, but certainly one of the most representative regions.

 The origin of wine making in Tuscany is dated back to Etruscan times, the ancient and amazing people who settled in central Italy, whose origin are still today not very clear. Despite some ancient authors have mentioned wines produced by Etruscans, none of them was considered of high quality as to compete with other renowned wines of those times, such as Falerno. This confirms the marginal role of wine in the culture of Etruscans, a role which however become important in commercial aspects. The finding of Etruscan amphoras dated back to the seventeenth century B.C., even in territories far away from the ancient lands of Etruscans, including south France, prove Etruscans considered wine as a good to be commercialized with other people, although they were not great consumers nor excellent wine makers. Maybe it is also because of the scarce importance Etruscans recognized to wine in their culture - and therefore to wine making as well - it will not be found mention of quality Tuscan wines for many centuries to come.

	The main wine areas in Tuscany

 Tuscan wines are mentioned from medieval times, not because they were considered to be of quality, indeed for the prestige the region - in particular the cities of Florence and Siena - acquired politically and commercially. Wine was become a strategic commercial item, and it is thanks to this if today we have information about Tuscan wine because of the work of merchants. Information about the trading of wine in Tuscany are dated back to 1079, when the wine of the region was sold and commercialized at Mercato Vecchio (Old Market) in Florence. The trading of wine soon acquired a strategical importance, and in 1282 was founded the corporation of Arte dei Vinattieri (Art of Wine Merchants and Makers). It was a period in which viticulture and the production of wine flourished, although not showing important development in quality. In 1385 Giovanni di Piero Antinori joins Arte dei Vinattieri, therefore starting one of the most ancient dynasties still in activity and committed to wine making, a continuous and important history 26 generations long, which plays, still today, a primary role in Tuscan and Italian enology.

 In 1398 Chianti wine is mentioned for the first time, however it is interesting to see the citation was referred to white wine and not to the red one, that is the type of wine which today distinguishes the renowned and historical Tuscan area. The Chianti area is defined for the first time in a document dated back to the second half of twelfth century, where the hills between Baliaccia and Monte Luco are being identified as Monti del Chianti (Mountains of Chianti). The term Chianti - which probably comes from the Etruscan name Clante - was subsequently added to the names of the villages Castellina, Radda and Gaiole, which founded the “Lega del Chianti” (Chianti League), controlled by the jurisdiction of Florence. In occasion of the definition of its statute, the Lega del Chianti chose as its emblem the famous “black rooster in golden background”, which is still today used for distinguishing the wines of Chianti Classico. In the Chianti area wine has always played a strategic and important commercial role. Many are in fact the edicts and laws expressly emanated for the safeguarding of vineyards, cultivation techniques of vines and wine production in order to guarantee quality and therefore their commercialization.

 Chianti has also another important historical and worldwide record, the one of having being the first wine making area to be delimited and defined by law. In 1716 Grand duke Cosimo III, with a specific edict, delimited the borders of Chianti wine area «from Spedaluzzo to Greve; then to Panzano, with the territory of Radda, which includes the three villages of Radda, Gaiole and Castellina, up to the borders of the state of Siena». At those times the color of Chianti wine was already changed since many years, and the ancient citation of white wines written in the document of 1398 is now replaced by a red wine called “Vermihlio” (vermilion). To talk about the grapes used at those times for the production of Chianti is Cosimo Villifranchi, who in 1773 wrote this wine was mainly produced with Canaiolo Nero to which was added a small quantity of Sangiovese, Mammolo and Marzemino. It is singular to notice Cosimo Villifranchi mentioned the use of white grapes Trebbiano and San Colombano as well. In 1872 the famous Baron Bettino Ricasoli, after having experimented for decades on the production of Chianti, formulated his renowned recipe which is still today used by many producers.

 Baron Bettino Ricasoli suggested the use of Sangiovese for most of the part, in order to give Chianti vigor and aromas, as well as Canaiolo Nero, in order to smooth both the acidity and astringency of Sangiovese. He also suggested the use of Malvasia Bianca only for wines to be consumed young and he discouraged its use for wines destined for aging. Baron Bettino Ricasoli did not mention Trebbiano Toscano, mistakenly considered part of his “recipe”. The introduction of Trebbiano - which together with Malvasia Bianca can make 30% of the wine - was probably because of the custom the producers of those times had in order to make higher quantity of wines which could quickly aged and therefore commercialized earlier. At the end of 1960s, in order to stop the decaying image of Chianti wines, some producers - the first one being Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta - decided to give a new boost to Tuscan enology by creating full bodied wines based on the “international” model, produced with French grapes and aged in barrique. These wines, which in the beginning were classified as table wines, were soon called Supertuscans and also other producers began their production, adding to the famous Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the local Sangiovese: a combination which is still frequent in many Tuscan wines.

 Just like the other regions of Italy, Tuscany is classified according to the quality system in force in the country which provides for, from the lowest to the highest rank, Vini da Tavola (Table Wines), Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Typical Geographical Indication, IGT), Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG). Despite in Tuscany are defined many DOC and DOCG areas, particularly interesting are the wines classified as IGT, the category to which belong most of the so called Supertuscans, full bodied wines produced according to the “international” model. In Tuscany are defined 6 DOCG areas and precisely: Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Chianti, Chianti Classico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The DOC areas defined in Tuscany are 35: Ansonica Costa dell'Argentario, Barco Reale di Carmignano, Bianco della Valdinievole, Bianco dell'Empolese, Bianco di Pitigliano, Bianco Pisano di San Torpé, Bolgheri, Candia dei Colli Apuani, Capalbio, Colli dell'Etruria Centrale, Colli di Luni, Colline Lucchesi, Cortona, Elba, Montecarlo, Montecucco, Monteregio di Massa Marittima, Montescudaio, Morellino di Scansano, Moscadello di Montalcino, Orcia, Parrina, Pietraviva, Pomino, Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano, San Gimignano, Sant'Antimo, Sovana, Val d'Arbia, Valdichiana, Val di Cornia, Vin Santo del Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico and Vin Santo di Montepulciano.

 The production of wine in Tuscany is made in the whole territory, from north to south, the succession of hills has the vineyard as a common factor. In this region are mainly produced red wines with Sangiovese grape, which is found everywhere in Tuscany and used alone of together with other grapes, including the international ones. The most common white berried grape in Tuscany is Trebbiano Toscano, followed by Malvasia Bianca, present in many white wines of the region and, as it is suggested by tradition, in many Chianti wines as well. Another common white berried grapes in Tuscany is Chardonnay, with which are being produced white wines according to the international model to which it is frequently added the barrique. The spreading and notoriety of the so called Supertuscans has introduced in Tuscany many “international” red grapes - of which the main ones are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah - to which is being added Sangiovese, in order to keep a “touch” of Tuscan tradition. The spreading of these grapes in Tuscany is such that today most of them are included in many production disciplinary of DOC wines, including the traditional Chianti, to which are being frequently used, besides Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot as well.

 One of the most famous wines of Tuscany, practically known by every wine lover and also the ones who are not interested in wine have heard of it at least once, certainly is Brunello di Montalcino. The wine takes its name from the grape with which it is produced - Brunello - the name with which it is called in Montalcino the Sangiovese Grosso grape. The wines of Montalcino - which is located south from Siena - owe their notoriety to a figure who is part of the history of Tuscan wine making: Ferruccio Biondi Santi. The grape Brunello, traditionally present in Montalcino, thanks to the intuitions of Ferruccio Biondi Santi, as well as the experience of his grandfather Clemente Santi, was transformed into a wine which soon became famous all over the world. It was 1888: the history of Brunello di Montalcino was just begun. This famous wine, recognized by the Italian quality system as DOCG, is produced with 100% Sangiovese Grosso - locally known as Brunello - and can be released for consumption only after 5 years from harvesting (6 for the reserve), with a minimum of two years of aging in cask.

 Chianti is just another of those names - and of wines - which made Tuscany famous in the world. According to the quality system in force in Italy - who recognizes to every Chianti wine the DOCG category - the famous wines of these areas are divided in many denominations, all being different one from each other in every aspect. Chianti Classico - that is the most ancient and traditional production area - is produced in the classic territory going from south of Florence to north of Siena, and it is from this area which come the most famous Chianti wines. The production area of Chianti - which provides for the generic denomination “Chianti” - includes seven areas and precisely: Colli Aretini, Colli Senesi, Colli Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Rufina, Montalbano and Montespertoli. According to the disciplinary, Chianti is mainly produced with Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero grapes, a small part of Malvasia Bianca and Trebbiano Toscano, as well as other grapes permitted by the disciplinary, usually Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Despite the invasion of “international” grapes in Chianti is getting a more and more determinant role, it should be observed there are still many producers who prefer using traditional Chianti's grapes only.

 Of the six DOCG areas of Tuscany in the province of Siena, the area of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano certainly is among the most famous ones. This wine is mainly produced with the Prugnolo Gentile grape - name with which in Montepulciano is called Sangiovese Grosso - to which is added Canaiolo Nero and, in lesser percentage, Mammolo and Colorino, as well as other grapes permitted by the production disciplinary. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano can be commercialized only after a minimum of two years of aging in cask. Robust and complex wine, Nobile di Montepulciano can be aged for many years, developing with time very complex and pleasing qualities. Wine having long traditions, Nobile di Montepulciano was known since 1500s for its quality, a wine appreciated and celebrated by the nobles of those times, it was also widely praised by Sante Lancerio. After a long time of decay, the first attempts of reprise were recorded after the year 1900 and in particular in 1960s, when producers began to become interested again to Nobile instead to Chianti, a process which will give origin to the new awakening in 1980s, when Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was recognized the DOCG rank.

 Talking about the wine areas of Tuscany recognized by the Italian quality system, would certainly require a longer report. However it is appropriate mentioning those areas and those wines which in recent times are getting more and more popular among wine lovers. In this sense are interesting the other two Tuscan DOCG wines: Carmignano and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Carmignano, another famous wine area having long history and tradition and which is located in the province of Prato, exclusively produces red wines with Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Vernaccia di San Gimignano - which is produced in the territory of the famous city of towers in the province of Siena - is a remarkable white wine produced with the homonymous grape. Among the other interesting DOC areas, is mentioned Morellino di Scansano, mainly produced with Sangiovese grape, locally called Morellino. Morellino di Scansano is a wine which is now part of the great ones of Tuscany, thanks to the efforts of producers who have been successful is proving the enormous potentialities of their territory and wine.

 Among the many wines, Vin Santo is one which should certainly be mentioned, despite it is a wine whose tradition is shared with other regions in Italy, in Tuscany is recognized in some areas as DOC, as in case of Vin Santo del Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico and Vin Santo di Montepulciano. In Tuscany, Vin Santo is generally produced with the grapes Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca, however there is also a style produced with Sangiovese and which is called Occhio di Pernice (partridge eye). As for other interesting DOC areas in Tuscany are mentioned: Bolgheri, Cortona, Orcia, Parrina, Pomino, Rosso di Montalcino, Rosso di Montepulciano, San Gimignano and Sant'Antimo. A special mention goes to the family of the so called Supertuscans, robust and complex wines mainly produced with “international” grapes - in particular Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir - to which is frequently added the local grape Sangiovese. Supertuscans wines generally belong to the IGT category (Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Typical Geographic Indication), a classification in which it is possible to find truly interesting wines, not only in Tuscany.

 Gewürztraminer is a special grape according to many point of views. Its presence in wines is easily recognizable by anyone and it is Gewürztraminer the first aromatic grape which is usually met by any neophyte wine lover. Capable of making white wines with remarkable body, with the characteristic golden yellow color, its aromatic vehemence - which reminds not only grape, but also spices, flowers and tropical fruits - is something which hardly goes unnoticed. The remarkable personality of Gewürztraminer is in fact so strong that it is sometimes exaggerated, in particular when it is being used with other grapes, but however it always gives any wine a touch of elegance and finesse like few other grapes. Introduced this way, it would seem that making a good Gewürztraminer wine takes little and it is enough to completely trust its magic. Of course, it is not like that. Making an excellent Gewürztraminer wine is an art not for many, transforming it into an ordinary wine is something which frequently happens instead.

 Despite Gewürztraminer is considered an “international” grape, as opposed to its other famous colleagues, it does not have French origins, nevertheless it has a strong connection with France and in particular with Alsace, region from which come excellent wines produced with this grape. It is believed Gewürztraminer - sometimes also written as Gewurztraminer or Traminer Aromatico in Italy - derives from Traminer, a grape originating from Termeno, in Alto Adige, and of which exists written documents as old as 1000 AD. Gewürztraminer's berries, as opposed to its progenitor Traminer, have a basically pink color and stronger aromatic qualities: it is not by chance the German word gewürz means spicy and, in this specific case, its more appropriate meaning is aromatic. It should be noticed the existence of a certain confusion between the use of the names Traminer and Gewürztraminer: despite they are two different grapes, Gewürztraminer is frequently defined as Traminer.

 Wines produced with Gewürztraminer generally have a fuller structure when compared to other white wines, a strong and typical aromaticity as well as a pretty high alcohol by volume, sometimes greater than 13%. Thanks to its qualities, Gewürztraminer is a grape used for the production of many styles of wine, from dry to sweet, including ice wines. The most common vinification technique makes use of inert containers, such as steel and cement, whereas fermentation and aging in cask or barrique is a pretty limited practice, because when used in an exaggerated way it can compromise the appreciation of aromas, the main characteristic of Gewürztraminer. The remarkable quantity of alcohol can sometimes make acidity insufficient therefore making the wine unbalanced, a problem which keeps producers pretty busy. Gewürztraminer is not an easy grape for the ones who decide to cultivate it and to use it for wine making, however, given the appropriate conditions and quality criteria, it is capable of making wines which can always and however surprise.

	The three Gewürztraminer of our comparative tasting

 We will focus our comparative tasting on one of the most interesting and celebrated area of Italy for Gewürztraminer: Alto Adige. Not only the region from which this grape is from, but also an extremely interesting area for the production of white wines, of which Gewürztraminer is an excellent representative. The first wine selected for our comparative tasting is Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Lunare, the second one is Hofstätter's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof, whereas the third wine is Produttori Termeno's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer. Three excellent examples of Alto Adige's Gewürztraminer, of which only Cantina Terlano's Lunare has been aged for about 12 months in cask, whereas the other two have been vinified in steel tanks, where they are allowed to age for some months followed by a short aging in bottle. The three wines will be served at a temperature of 10° C (50° F), enough for the development of the exuberant aromas of the grape and for the appreciation of the other organoleptic qualities. The comparative tasting will be done by using three ISO tasting glasses.

 As opposed to most of white wines - in which can be generally observed colors ranging from greenish yellow to straw yellow - in Gewürztraminer hues will show deeper and fuller colors, intense straw yellow color, as well as golden yellow color, a characteristic which can be found in young wines as well. The reason of this deeper intensity in colors is mainly because of Gewürztraminer's skin, which with its pink color, gives deeper colors to wines. As wines produced with this grape generally have a pretty high alcohol by volume - also greater than 13% - Gewürztraminer wines can age for some years in bottle. With aging the color will get deeper golden yellow colors, as well as evident amber yellow color nuances, a characteristic which is always present, for example, in sweet wines produced with Gewürztraminer.

 The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Lunare, the only one of three wines fermented and aged in cask. By keeping the glass in vertical position, it will be observed the base of the liquid mass, where it will be possible to see a brilliant golden yellow color. By tilting the glass over a white surface and by observing the border of the liquid mass, it will be observed nuances of the same color. The second wine we will examine is Hofstätter's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof. The color of this wine is paler than the previous one: here it will noticed an intense straw yellow color, almost golden, with straw yellow nuances. The last wine of which we will evaluate appearance is Produttori Termeno's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer, aged in steel tanks. The color of this wine is intense golden yellow and - by tilting the glass over a white surface - it will be observed nuances of the same color. As it was predictable, the effect of aging in cask gave Cantina Terlano's Gewürztraminer Lunare deeper hues than the other two wines.

 The evaluation of Gewürztraminer's aromas - of quality Gewürztraminer wines, of course - always represents an amazing experience for every taster. Not only a world made of the exuberant and exaggerated grape aroma, but in particular of a universe made of tens of aromas, in which are found, among the many, flowers, fruits - also tropical - spices and aromatic herbs. In Gewürztraminer produced with dried grapes, the scene is completed by aromas of dried fruits and jams, in other words, the olfactory analysis of this grape should be considered a highly educative experience for every taste: it is not by chance the wines produced with Gewürztraminer are frequently used for educational purposes in sensorial wine tasting classes. Thanks to alcohol - which in Gewürztraminer is frequently higher than 13% - wines produced with this grape can stand to some years of aging in bottle, a process allowing its exuberant aromas to evolve and by giving back - in particular in sweet wines - genuine nectars characterized by complex and intense aromas.

 We will begin the olfactory evaluation of our wines from Hofstätter's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof. By keeping the glass in vertical position, we will evaluate opening aromas. It will be immediately perceived a strong grape aroma - a quality which classifies Gewürztraminer in the family of aromatic grapes - and an overall elegant and refined profile. After having swirled the glass, it will be done a second smell which will allow the perception of the aromas of peach, litchi, banana, pineapple, passion fruit, apricot, broom, pear, kiwi and honey. It will finally be noticed an aroma of sage, one of the many aromatic herbs which can be found in the olfactory evaluation of Gewürztraminer. It will also be noticed, despite the aromaticity of the wine is pretty strong, how the other aromas are expressed in a very balanced and harmonic way. We will now pass to the evaluation of the second wine, Produttori Termeno's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer.

 By keeping the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we will proceed with the evaluation of opening aromas. From the glass will be perceived the typical aroma of grape as well as peach, litchi and honey. The second smell - done after having swirled the glass - will reveal aromas of banana, passion fruit, pineapple, apricot, pear and orange, as well as pleasing and balanced aromas of flowers such as acacia, lily and white rose, the latter being typical in Gewürztraminer. It will also be noticed the presence of sage aroma, just like in the previous wines. We will now pass to the olfactory evaluation of the last wine, Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Lunare, the only one of the three fermented and aged in cask. The first smell will reveal opening aromas of grape, litchi, yellow rose and honey, whereas the second smell - after having swirled the glass - will allow the perception of the aromas of banana, peach, gooseberry, apricot and broom as well as sage. It should also be noticed the presence of vanilla and toasted wood aromas, sign of the passage in cask, which however do not disturb the balance and the perception of other aromas.

 The gustatory evaluation of dry Gewürztraminer wines can be sometimes deceiving for the neophyte taster. Because of the high content in alcohol and a limited acidity, dry wines produced with this grape usually appear smooth, a surely pleasing roundness. This characteristic, despite it is very pleasing, can be sometimes confused with the organoleptic sensation of sweetness. This “false” perception will be also evident in the three Gewürztraminers of our comparative tasting, three wines which have to be considered absolutely dry. Gewürztraminer wines are also characterized by a pretty full structure, probably among the whites having the highest structure. As we would certainly expect from any aromatic grape, in Gewürztraminer the olfactory correspondence to the taste is always very good, persistence in the mouth of the best wines can be measured for more than 15 seconds, while leaving in the mouth a pleasing and clear flavor of grape.

 The first wine we will examine is Hofstätter's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof. After the very first sip it will be possible to perceive the high content in alcohol and the structure, a sensation which is hardly met in other white wines. It will also be noticed the correspondence to the nose - something we will notice in other wines as well - and the strong flavor of grape. Also acidity will be well balanced with the other organoleptic qualities of the wine. Let's now examine the second wine, Produttori Termeno's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer. Also in this case the attack will evidence both alcohol and body, a good acidity, very well balanced, and the usual flavor of grape, very elegant and refined. The last wine we will examine is Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Lunare, fermented and aged in cask. The attack is not different from the previous wines, also in this case it will be noticed the alcohol and body, higher than the previous wines, however balanced by a good acidity. It will finally be noticed how the organoleptic qualities of wood do not negatively influence Gewürztraminer's personality and typicality.

 In the final phase of our comparative tasting, we will discover another fine characteristic of Gewürztraminer: long persistence. In quality wines produced with this grape - as in the case of our three wines - the taste-olfactory persistence is always very long, most of the times longer than 15 seconds. The long finish of Hofstätter's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof will be characterized by flavors of grape, peach, banana, pear, kiwi, honey and litchi, whereas in Produttori Termeno's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer the flavor of grape will be joined by peach, honey, litchi and banana. Also the last wine, Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Lunare has a very long persistence in which it is possible to perceive flavors of grape, peach, apricot, litchi, honey and pear. As we can see, three pretty similar finishes which confirm the typicality of Gewürztraminer, a grape which hardly goes unnoticed, from its golden look to the long flavors left in the mouth at the end of tasting.

 Among the many wineries in Franciacorta which were successful in proving the quality of the bubbles from this territory, there is the historical winery Il Mosnel, located at Camignone di Passirano. The name of this prestigious Franciacorta's winery derives from an ancient place whose name has Celtic origins and meaning “pietraia” - that is a drift of stones - which is enough to give the idea about the condition of these lands in ancient times. The territory was cleared up by Cistercians monks from the abbey of Cluny, in Burgundy, who in the village of Ridengo - near the Il Mosnel - built their magnificent abbey and introduced the cultivation of vine. Thanks to this, the place of Camignone quickly become famous for the quality of its wines, something which is proven by a document of the land registry of Brescia dated 1609, during the times of Venetian Republic, in which it is written that at Camignone «…lands are good and from which are produced excellent wines…In this context of long history and tradition, Il Mosnel winery takes its origins - still keeping in the oldest part of its structure the cellars of the 1500s - which was property of the powerful Cacciamatta family and in 1836 was acquired by the Barboglio family.

	A top view of Il Mosnel winery and its vineyards

 When Rosina Rosa Cacciamatta entered the management, she was the last descendant of the Cacciamatta di Castiglione family and who got married to Pietro Barboglio, the history of Il Mosnel has always been characterized by the key role the family's women played. The tradition of women's management continued up to the 1950s, when Emanuela Barboglio, after her father passed away and at the age of eighteen she was in charge for the management of the firm. Emanuela Barboglio, who was taught and advised by her grandmother Nina, faced the hard years of those times, when people moved from the countryside to the city and preferred a more comfortable lifestyle. Emanuela Barboglio decided to do the opposite, and from the city moved to Camignone, therefore contributing to the formation of the viticultural future of Il Mosnel. Vineyards were planted and in 1968 the winery adopted for its wines the newborn Franciacorta DOC. In recent times, Emanuela Barboglio has been joined in the management of Il Mosnel by her son Giulio Barzanò - which is in charge for technical, commercial and productive issues - and her daughter Lucia Barzanò, who is in charge for management, commercialization of wines, public and press relations.

 The complex where Il Mosnel winery is located is still made of the ancient structures of the 1500s, properly restored and adapted for the production of wine, offering an absolutely particular environment in which tradition meets the modern production technologies. The name “Il Mosnel” was used for the first time in the labels of wines produced by the winery in 1976, replacing the previous mention “azienda agricola Barzanò Barboglio”, and the winery was one of the first in this area to make use of steel tanks for the vinification of its wines, cooling systems and automatic presses. The presses used by the Il Mosnel allow the transferring of the must produced in each stage to specific steel tanks, classified according to variety and vineyard of origin. In the rooms of Il Mosnel winery, besides steel tanks, there are also casks used for the aging of wines, placed in proper rooms in which temperature and humidity are constantly controlled.

Il Mosnel Franciacorta bottles on pupitres

 Casks are made with Hungarian and French wood, coming from the Central Massive, and are mainly used for fermentation and aging, in contact with yeast, of base wines which will then become valuable Franciacorta, by giving more complexity and color stability. The Il Mosnel's philosophy production believes in the intelligent and conscious use of wood for wine making, by using casks which can also be more than ten years old, exclusively destined to wines of particular concentration and quality. On this regard, the winery scrupulously choose the best tonnellerie, with the right aging and toasting of woods, by varying aging times according to the wine to be made. Not all the wines produced by Il Mosnel are completely made in wood, in fact only three of them are completely aged in new barriques: Sulif, Passito and Pinot Noir. As for the other wines, such as Rosso Fontecolo and Franciacortas, only a part is being aged in barrique, usually of second or third passage.

 In respect to the environment, the 40 hectares of the Il Mosnel's vineyards are cultivated with productive criteria characterized by high density of vines per hectare and low grapes yields. The eight vineyards of the winery are found in lands near the winery's complex, therefore allowing a better and quick care in cultural practices as well as a scrupulous control on harvesting times. The harvesting is done by hand and grapes are put in small boxes which are quickly transferred to the cellar, therefore, after a scrupulous selection, they are pressed. The must is being fermented at a controlled temperature in oak casks or in steel tanks, according to the type of wine to be made. In springtime, after a rigorous tasting, the wines produced with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir and coming from different vineyards, are assembled in different percentages according to the style of Franciacorta to be made, therefore the process of the refermentation in bottle begins. In the ancient rooms of the winery, bottles age for at least two years in contact with yeast, and giving back, at the end of the process, precious Franciacorta bubbles.

 Wines produced by Il Mosnel are distributed all over the Italian territory as well as in many foreign countries, including United States of America, Japan, Korea, Germany, Luxembourg and Switzerland. The activity of Il Mosnel - led by Emanuela Barboglio and her son Giulio and daughter Lucia Barzanò - besides the production of wine, has also a receptive activity capable of hosting wine lovers and guiding them to the discovery of their wines. Recently, Il Mosnel has expanded its structure by creating a specific room - built over the cellar's rooms - reserved, since 2003, to the “Quelli che il Vino…”, an activity dedicated to every wine tourist. A place where people meet one each other and can discuss about wine, a place where wine is tasted and celebrated, “Quelli che il Vino…” offers to any wine lover events of enology, sensorial tasting and enogastronomy. Among the interesting bubbles production of Il Mosnel, are particularly mentioned, for their good qualities and characteristics, Franciacorta Pas Dosé, with complex aromas and good body, and the exclusive Franciacorta Rosé Pas Dosé Millesimato Parosé.

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