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  Wine Tasting Issue 44, September 2006   
Comparing SangioveseComparing Sangiovese Wines of the MonthWines of the Month  Contents 
Issue 43, Summer 2006 Follow DiWineTaste on Follow DiWineTaste on TwitterIssue 45, October 2006

Comparing Sangiovese

Queen of vineyards in central Italy, in its countless clonal varieties, Sangiovese is a grape not so easy to cultivate and to vinify, however capable of great wines

 Among the many autochthonous grapes cultivated in Italy, there is one, despite it is mainly common in central regions, which has made Italian enology known all over the world. It is Sangiovese, the protagonist of many famous wines - such as Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - the most common red berried grapes in Tuscany, Emilia Romagna and Umbria. Sangiovese is also cultivated in the vineyards of Latium, Marches, Abruzzo, Lombardy, Veneto, Campania, Molise, Apulia, Calabria, Sicily and Sardinia. Indeed, in some cases, Sangiovese is also used in Veneto for the production of the renowned Amarone. In the central regions of Italy, Sangiovese is used in the production of mono varietal wines as well as blended to other grapes, most of the times “international” ones. For example, the combination of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is common in Tuscany for the so called Supertuscan wines, a combination which is also found in the other regions of central Italy.

 Among the most ancient Italian grapes known - it seems ancient Etruscans used it for the production of wine - Sangiovese area of origin seems to be Tuscany, the region where it represents the most common red berried grape. Its name comes from the Latin Sanguis Jovis - that is blood of Jupiter - and with time it will become “Sangiovese”, passing for many variants, of which the most famous one is San Gioveto, still used in Tuscany. According to its nature, Sangiovese is a grape which can easily mutate, and today are known tens of different clonal varieties. The ampelographic classification divides this grape in two major categories: Sangiovese Piccolo, (Small Sangiovese) with small berries, and Sangiovese Grosso, (Big Sangiovese) with bigger berries and author of Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Because of the easy nature of Sangiovese to mutate, there are many ampelographers who support the necessity of a more accurate classification than the two categories traditionally recognized.

 

The Wines of the Tasting

 Sangiovese is a grape having an excellent capacity of adaptation in many soil types, one of the factors which contributed to its spreading all over central Italy. Despite of this, according to a viticultural point of view, Sangiovese is a pretty susceptible variety to the attacks of molds, in particular during cold, wet and rainy seasons. As it easily tend to give abundant yields, Sangiovese requires pretty rigorous viticultural practices in order to allow a quality production. According to an organoleptic point of view, Sangiovese basically makes wines with a pretty evident acidity that, together with its high contents in polyphenols, can result excessively harsh. For this reason, wines produced with Sangiovese are usually aged in cask in order to mitigate the strength of its tannins and to make the wine smoother and less aggressive. Another method used for making Sangiovese less aggressive is to blend it with other grapes, in particular Merlot and, traditionally, Canaiolo Nero.


The three Sangiovese wines of our comparative tasting
The three Sangiovese wines of our comparative tasting

 The wines selected for our comparative tasting come from the three regions where Sangiovese represents the most cultivated red berried grape, three different ways to interpret this famous grape. Three wines expressing three different territories - Umbria, Tuscany and Emilia Romagna - all being aged in cask, a common and traditional practice for Sangiovese. The first wine selected for our comparative tasting is Colli Martani Sangiovese Riserva Properzio produced by the interesting Umbrian winery Di Filippo. The second wine is Val di Cornia Suvereto Sangiovese produced in Tuscany by Gualdo del Re. The last wine, coming from Emilia Romagna, is Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Thea produced by Tre Monti. The three wines will be served at a temperature of 18° C (64° F) in order to favor the correct development of aromas, without compromising Sangiovese's acidity as well as the roundness given by cask. The comparative tasting will be done by using three ISO tasting glasses.

 

Appearance Analysis

 Sangiovese is a grape with a pretty high contents in coloring substances, however the intensity of colors in its wines basically depends on how the grape was cultivated and the wine making practices. Despite its good coloring capacity, Sangiovese wines are characterized by ruby red colors of good intensity with an average transparency, in other words, it will hardly be noticed deep and intense colors, almost impenetrable to light, like the ones typical in some Cabernet Sauvignons. Thanks to the good content in acid substances and polyphenols, as well as alcohol volume, quality Sangiovese wines can also age for tens of years, a period during which the color evolves up to showing pretty brilliant brick red hues. Sangiovese's color tends to show garnet red nuances after some years of aging in bottle, and with time - because of the progressive sediment of polyphenols - transparency will increase as well, something which is easily observable in Sangiovese wines aged for a long time, such as Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

 The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Di Filippo's Colli Martani Sangiovese Riserva Properzio. We will begin by evaluating the intensity of color, by observing the liquid mass at the base of the glass: it will be noticed an intense ruby red color, pretty transparent. By tilting the glass over a white surface, it will be noticed - by observing the wine towards the opening of the glass - a ruby red nuance. Let's now examine the second wine, Tre Monti's Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore. Also in this wine it will be observed a pretty brilliant ruby red color and an average transparency, the same color will be observed in the nuances, after having tilted the glass. As opposed to the previous wines, Gualdo del Re's Val di Cornia Suvereto Sangiovese shows an evident low transparency, in which it is possible to observe a strong ruby red hue and nuances of the same color.

 

Olfactory Analysis

 The olfactory evaluation of Sangiovese opens the doors to the a world mainly made of red fruits and flowers: this is what Sangiovese usually offers to its wines in terms of secondary aromas. As the most frequent vinification technique used for Sangiovese makes use of casks, wines produced with this grape will also express tertiary aromas. Among fruit aromas distinguishing Sangiovese, two in particular emerge from all the other ones, the aromas of black cherry and plum. Moreover, Sangiovese is characterized by another aroma, belonging to the world of flowers, expressed by the exuberance of violet. These three aromas, of course, are also frequent in wines produced with other grapes, however in Sangiovese this combination is usually pretty intense. Among other fruit aromas typical in Sangiovese, are mentioned raspberry, blueberry and, sometimes, strawberry, whereas as for flower aromas, besides violet, in Sangiovese can also be perceived aromas of red rose and cyclamen.


 

 The first wine of which we will evaluate aromas is Di Filippo's Colli Martani Sangiovese Riserva Properzio. We will begin by evaluating opening aromas. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling it, we will do the first smell which will allow the perception of black cherry, violet and plum, the three typical aromas of Sangiovese grape. After having swirled the glass in order to oxygenate the wine, we will proceed with the second smell. It will be possible to perceive the aromas of blueberry, carob and cyclamen, to which will follow a series of tertiary aromas, where it will be possible to recognize vanilla, licorice and tobacco, as well as hints of cinnamon. It should be noticed, in particular, the opening of Properzio is characterized by the typical aromas of Sangiovese which will also be found in the other wines. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the second wine, Tre Monti's Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Thea.

 By holding the glass in vertical position, we will proceed with the evaluation of opening aromas. It will be perceived the typical aromas of plum and black cherry, to which will follow aromas of violet and rose, very intense and clean. After having swirled the glass, let's now proceed with the second smell. It will be perceived aromas of blackberry, cyclamen, lavender and tobacco followed by aromas of licorice, vanilla, cocoa and mace. Let's now pass to the olfactory evaluation of the last wine, Gualdo del Re's Val di Cornia Suvereto Sangiovese. Opening aromas will be characterized, also in this case, by black cherry, plum and violet, very intense and clean. After having swirled the glass, we will proceed with the second smell which will allow the perception of the aromas of blueberry and blackberry as well as vanilla, clove, chocolate, tobacco, pink pepper and a pleasing balsamic hint of menthol, the sign, just like the other tertiary aromas, of the passage in wood and of its level of its toasting.

 

Gustatory Analysis

 Among the main gustatory qualities of wines produced with Sangiovese we find acidity, that in this grape is pretty evident, however less evident than in other red grapes with strong acidity, such as Nebbiolo, Barbera and Pinot Noir. Another organoleptic quality typical in Sangiovese, at least in wines produced with quality criteria and low yields in vineyards, is a pronounced astringency caused by the content in polyphenols. The strength of tannins in Sangiovese is usually mitigated by the aging in cask, although it is pretty frequent the blending with other less astringent grapes, such as Merlot or Canaiolo Nero. The effects of the use of cask in Sangiovese wines is pretty evident also in the taste: the round character trying to mitigate wine's crispness is an easily recognizable quality. As for alcohol volume, wines produced with Sangiovese generally ranges from 12,5% to 14%, frequently an alcohol by volume of 13-13,5%, in order to better contribute to the “smooth” character of the wine while contrasting the “harsher” side.

 The first wine we will examine is Di Filippo's Colli Martani Sangiovese Riserva Properzio. The first sip will evidence an attack characterized by the astringency of polyphenols, and next it will be noticed the typical acidity of Sangiovese, everything is however balanced by the good roundness given by cask as well as by acidity. It should also be noticed the body of the wine, not really robust, however robust enough to be well noticed. Let's now pass to Tre Monti's Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Thea: also the attack of this wine is characterized by an evident astringency followed by a good crispness, once again, well balanced both by alcohol and by the aging in cask. The attack of Gualdo del Re's Val di Cornia Suvereto Sangiovese shows a more robust structure as opposed to the previous wines, however having a dominant astringent quality balanced by the roundness given by the passage in wood that - together with alcohol - contribute to mitigate the effect of acidity as well. It should finally be noticed how in all the three wines can be perceived a very good correspondence to the nose of the dominant aromas of black cherry and plum.

 

Final Considerations

 The taste-olfactory persistence of the wines produced with Sangiovese grape is usually very good, although - as always - this characteristic essentially depends on the quality of cultural practices and wine making. The finish of Di Filippo's Colli Martani Sangiovese Riserva Properzio is persistent and it is possible to perceive intense flavors of black cherry and plum, the two most characteristic fruits in Sangiovese, to which will follow the flavor of blueberry. Also the finish of Tre Monti's Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Thea is persistent and intense, with very clean flavors of black cherry and plum as well as a pleasing flavor of blackberry. The finish of the last wine, Gualdo del Re's Val di Cornia Suvereto Sangiovese, is persistent and - just like in previous wines - with very intense flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. Despite Sangiovese is a basically acid grape and with a pretty strong astringency, it should be noticed how in all the three wines the practice of aging in cask contributes to make the final result agreeable and round, and in some cases - also thanks to the effect of alcohol - it perfectly balances the acidity in a way the relative perception of its taste is very attenuated.

 






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Comparing SangioveseComparing Sangiovese Wines of the MonthWines of the Month  Contents 
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Wines of the Month


 

Score legend

Fair    Pretty Good    Good
Very Good    Excellent
Wine that excels in its category Wine that excels in its category
Good value wine Good value wine
Prices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the country
or the shop where wines are bought




Franciacorta Satèn, Mirabella (Lombardy, Italy)
Franciacorta Satèn
Mirabella (Lombardy, Italy)
Grapes: Chardonnay
Price: € 12.50 Score:
This Franciacorta shows a brilliant straw yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent, fine and persistent perlage. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of bread crust, grapefruit and banana followed by aromas of acacia, yeast, hawthorn, apple, plum, mineral, hazelnut and hints of vanilla. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp and effervescent attack, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of banana, apple and plum. Part of the base wine ages in barrique. This Franciacorta Satèn ages for at least 28 months in bottle on its lees.
Food Match: Aperitifs, Fish and crustaceans appetizers, Pasta and risotto with fish and crustaceans



Franciacorta Pas Dosé 1998, Mirabella (Lombardy, Italy)
Franciacorta Pas Dosé 1998
Mirabella (Lombardy, Italy)
Grapes: Chardonnay (50%), Pinot Blanc (30%), Pinot Noir (20%)
Price: € 15.20 Score:
This Franciacorta shows a brilliant straw yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent, fine and persistent perlage. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of bread crust and banana followed by aromas of acacia, hawthorn, yeast, honey, apple, raspberry, mineral, hazelnut, pear and grapefruit. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp and effervescent attack, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable roundness. The finish is persistent with flavors of banana, grapefruit and apple. This Franciacorta ages in bottle on its lees for at least 60 months.
Food Match: Stewed fish, Roasted fish, Sauteed white meat



Cignale 2001, Castello di Querceto (Tuscany, Italy)
Cignale 2001
Castello di Querceto (Tuscany, Italy)
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (90%), Merlot (10%)
Price: € 47.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category
Cignale shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of black cherry, black currant and plum followed by aromas of violet, vanilla, tobacco, blueberry, licorice, chocolate, leather, cinnamon, tar and mace. The mouth has very good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and black currant. A well made wine. Cignale ages for 20-24 months in barrique followed by at least 6 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Game, Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese



Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio 2001, Castello di Querceto (Tuscany, Italy)
Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio 2001
Castello di Querceto (Tuscany, Italy)
Grapes: Sangiovese (92%), Canaiolo Nero (8%)
Price: € 28.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category
The wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of plum, raspberry and black cherry followed by aromas of violet, vanilla, cyclamen, blueberry, tobacco, licorice, carob, pink pepper and menthol. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum, black cherry and raspberry. A well made wine. Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio ages for 12 months in barrique followed by at least 6 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese



Friuli Grave Bianco Terre di Risano 2005, Pighin (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy)
Friuli Grave Bianco Terre di Risano 2005
Pighin (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy)
Grapes: Tocai Friulano, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc
Price: € 12.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category
The wine shows a pale straw yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of plum, peach and apple followed by aromas of hawthorn, broom, almond, pear and elder. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of peach, plum and almond. This wine ages in steel tanks.
Food Match: Fried fish, Pasta and risotto with fish and crustaceans, Sauteed white meat



Collio Cabernet 2004, Pighin (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy)
Collio Cabernet 2004
Pighin (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy)
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Cabernet Franc (40%)
Price: € 16.50 Score: Wine that excels in its category
The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry and violet followed by aromas of blueberry, plum, bell pepper, vanilla and licorice. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry and plum. Collio Cabernet Ages for 14 months in cask.
Food Match: Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese



Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Stella Retica 1998, AR.PE.PE. (Lombardy, Italy)
Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Stella Retica 1998
AR.PE.PE. (Lombardy, Italy)
Grapes: Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca)
Price: € 14.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category
The wine shows a brilliant brick red color and nuances of brick red, transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of cherry, strawberry and raspberry followed by aromas of plum, dried violet, dried rose, vanilla, tobacco, licorice, leather, cocoa, truffle and mace. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, pleasing roundness. The finish is persistent with flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry. A well made wine. This Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva ages for at least 2 years in cask followed by at least 6 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Roasted meat, Stewed and braised meat, Hard cheese



Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse 1996, AR.PE.PE. (Lombardy, Italy)
Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse 1996
AR.PE.PE. (Lombardy, Italy)
Grapes: Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca) (95%), Brugnola, Pinot Noir (5%)
Price: € 23.00 Score:
This wine shows a brilliant brick red color and nuances of brick red, transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of strawberry, cherry and raspberry followed by aromas of plum, dried violet, dried rose, cyclamen, vanilla, tobacco, leather, licorice, cocoa, mace and menthol. The mouth has excellent correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, pleasing roundness. The finish is very persistent with long flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. A well made wine. Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse ages for more than 4 years in cask.
Food Match: Game, Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese



Kados 2005, Duca di Salaparuta (Sicily, Italy)
Kados 2005
Duca di Salaparuta (Sicily, Italy)
Grapes: Grillo
Price: € 7.60 Score: Wine that excels in its category
Kados shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of pear and pineapple followed by aromas of hawthorn, almond, peach and vanilla. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of pear, apple and peach. Kados ferments in barrique and ages in cement tanks.
Food Match: Fried fish, Pasta and risotto with fish and crustaceans, Broiled crustaceans



Megara 2004, Duca di Salaparuta (Sicily, Italy)
Megara 2004
Duca di Salaparuta (Sicily, Italy)
Grapes: Frappato (60%), Syrah (40%)
Price: € 7.70 Score: Wine that excels in its category
The wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of cherry and raspberry followed by aromas of strawberry, plum, violet, rose and cyclamen. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and pleasing roundness, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum, cherry and raspberry. Megara ages for 12 months in cements tanks followed by 5-6 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Stuffed pasta, Roasted fish, Stewed fish, Roasted white meat



Morsi di Luce 2003, Florio (Sicily, Italy)
Morsi di Luce 2003
Florio (Sicily, Italy)
Grapes: Muscat of Alexandria (Zibibbo)
Price: € 14.00 - 50cl Score: Wine that excels in its category
Morsi di Luce shows a brilliant amber yellow color and nuances of golden yellow, transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of grape, orange marmalade and honey followed by aromas of apricot, peach, candied fruit, dried fig, quince jam, almond, litchi, sage and lavender. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a sweet and smooth attack, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of grape, orange marmalade and apricot. A well made wine. Morsi di Luce ages for 10 months in barrique followed by at least 10 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Confectionery, Dried fruit tarts



Marsala Vergine Baglio Florio 1992, Florio (Sicily, Italy)
Marsala Vergine Baglio Florio 1992
Florio (Sicily, Italy)
Grapes: Grillo
Price: € 18.00 - 50cl Score: Wine that excels in its category
Marsala Vergine Baglio Florio shows a brilliant amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of rancho, dried fig and almond followed by aromas of citrus fruit peel, ethereal, chestnut honey, licorice, ceder, walnut, vanilla and leather. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a pleasing crisp attack and good roundness, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of almond, dried fig and walnut. A well made wine. This Marsala Vergine ages for more than 10 years in cask followed by at least 12 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Hard cheese, Broiled fish, Roasted meat



L'Anno Zero 2004, Col Sant'Angelo (Umbria, Italy)
L'Anno Zero 2004
Col Sant'Angelo (Umbria, Italy)
Grapes: Merlot
Price: € 12.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category
This wine shows a pale ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of black cherry, plum and black currant followed by aromas of blueberry, violet, carob and vanilla. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry and plum. L'Anno Zero ages for 6 months in cask, 3 months in steel tanks and 3 months in bottle.
Food Match: Roasted white meat, Sauteed meat, Stuffed pasta



Sagrantino di Montefalco Il Medievale 2002, Col Sant'Angelo (Umbria, Italy)
Sagrantino di Montefalco Il Medievale 2002
Col Sant'Angelo (Umbria, Italy)
Grapes: Sagrantino
Price: € 18.00 Score: Wine that excels in its category
This Sagrantino di Montefalco shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of black cherry, blackberry and plum followed by aromas of violet, vanilla, tobacco and carob. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of blackberry and plum. This Sagrantino di Montefalco ages for 22 months in cask followed by 8 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Roasted meat, Braised meat






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