Wine, which certainly is the expression of culture, tradition, of the place and people who make it, is a beverage that in the course of its history has evolved and developed according to taste and customs of people. The concept of wine as a beverage, besides being something absolutely personal for everyone, has changed in the course of the years, it has become something very different from its essential role. From ritual beverage to commercial resource, from popular beverage to beverage of the élite, from food to hedonistic beverage, wine has changed its mask many times according to what they wanted it to represent. With time, thanks to the progresses obtained by enological technology, the way of making wine has changed and continues to change, aware of the fact “making wine” does not only mean crushing grapes and waiting for “nature” to follow its own course. Also in the most “natural” wine making philosophies are being used those indispensable procedures - although in a limited way - as to ensure a good result, in other words, in order to get wine at the end of the process and not something else.

 In the last years we saw a pretty particular evolution of wine: the progresses obtained in terms of quality certainly are undeniable. This change has certainly been influenced by many factors, not all derived from uniquely enological needs. The taste of wine has changed in the last twenty years: from wine we do not simply expect a beverage, from wine we also look for something going beyond this quality. Structure, power and consistency are - for example - characteristics which are generally desired in a red wine, wines which more and more shows concentrations of colors, body and structure as to suggest the use of a knife instead of a glass. And the same is generally true for whites, which seem more and more look like red wines, at least according to certain aspects. In white wines, besides fresh and “immediate” aromas, are usually appreciated the ones having a certain structure - most of the times obtained by the fermentation or aging in cask - and for light wines it seems not to be any place, saved in rare exceptions.

 After all, if the market asks for wines having specific characteristics, the ones producing wine must conform to this, and as a consequence contribute - voluntarily or involuntarily - to change and guide the taste of wine in consumers. If we consider red wines, according to an organoleptic point of view, the higher quantity of tannins - contributing to increase structure - requires a higher quantity of substances capable of making the wine balanced: lacking balance, the wine would be, first of all, of bad quality. There are many ways to balance a fuller structure and body, however the most frequent solution is to make wines with more alcohol. This could explain the recent custom of making wines with higher alcohol by volume as opposed to the past, something concerning not only red wines, but also whites as well. We believe it is legitimate to ask whether all that alcohol is really indispensable in the production of wine.

 In past times, most of red wines - as an example - had an average alcohol by volume of 12.5%, a value which has today become pretty uncommon: most of red wines currently produced has an average alcohol by volume of 13.5%. And the same can be said for white wines, that in past times had an average alcohol by volume of 11%, whereas today it is not difficult to find white wines with an alcohol by volume of 13% and more. Alcohol in wine plays an indispensable organoleptic role: promotes the perception of aromas and contributes to gustatory balance. The sporadic and rare cases of producing a completely nonalcoholic wine confirm the importance of alcohol in the beverage of Bacchus, something making wine - always and however consumed in moderation and wisely - a special beverage according to many point of views. Also medicine recognizes the moderate consumption - always and only moderate - of wine and of alcoholic beverages has positive effects on the health.

 According to an organoleptic point of view, a wine without alcohol would not probably be interesting: it is undeniable alcohol plays a fundamental role in wine's personality. It is also true it is always recommended to limit the consumption of alcohol, despite it is important in the production of wine, or better to say, in the organoleptic qualities of wine. It is also true intelligence would suggest that, in case a wine contains more alcohol, it should be consumed in lesser quantities. In other words, the pleasure of wine - in order to be considered as such - is always represented by moderation, also according to its content in alcohol. However, we are talking about another subject: is it possible that the wines considered to be the best - both whites and reds - all have a pretty high alcohol by volume? How comes all the wines having an alcohol by volume lesser then 13%, saved rare cases, do not generally meet the preferences of consumers? Does a wine, in order to be good, must have a high content in alcohol?

 Of course there are areas in which wines are naturally characterized by higher quantities alcohol by volume: in warm and sunny areas it is almost impossible to make wines with a moderate content in alcohol, saved the cases in which are used specific viticultural and enological practices in order to lower the quantity of sugar. However the tendency of alcoholic wines is something which can also be seen in cooler areas where - according to some logic - there is less sun and therefore the sugar content should be naturally lower. Despite public awareness campaigns continue to suggest the consumption of alcohol - in particular among youngsters - is something to be done always and however in moderation, the tendency to make wine with higher content in alcohol seems to offbeat these suggestions. After all, if consumers continue to ask for more and more robust wines, having more body and consistency, maybe this is the price to pay. However wine - also and in particular quality wine - is not that only, of course not, it is, first of all, an emotion which is far away from deplorable drunkenness. Maybe it has come the right time to revaluate the sense of smell and to understand quality wine is - first of all - a wine having good and pleasing aromas and not alcohol only?

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 The change, or better to say the progress, of Italian enology and wine in the last twenty years has been truly remarkable. Quality of wines in every region has shown remarkable progresses: a renewal process of quality that, perhaps, few could imagine. The Italian heritage of grapes, as it is commonly known, it is huge, rich and variegated: every region has its typical grapes as to make every area unique not only for the environmental and climate characteristics. There are in fact many Italian regions that, during this period of renewal, have take advantage of the many grapes found in their territories, therefore beginning to change Italian enology and resuming the way of quality, forgotten for many years in favor of quantity. Among the regions which mainly confided in the grapes of their territory, there is Marches which believed in the revaluation of its most famous grape, Verdicchio, today one of the most renowned white wines of Italy. A success which has then extended to the reds of the region, such as Rosso Conero, Rosso Piceno, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona and Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.

	The main wine areas of Marches

 The origins of viticulture and wine production in the Marches are dated back to Etruscan times, between the tenth and the eighth century BC, when the characteristic vine training system of vite maritata spread in this area - in the Marches also known as “a folignata” - consisting in using the trunk of a tree to be used as a support for the vine to climb. The presence of the vine in ancient times is also proved by the discovery of the tomb of a warrior dated back to the eighth century BC, where it was found a bronze basin containing more than 200 pips of vitis vinifera. Despite Pliny the Elder wrote about the wines of Marches in his important book Naturalis Historia - by describing the wines of this land as generous - it will be only at the end of the 1500s that grapes and wines of Marches will be described comprehensively. Andrea Bacci - philosopher, doctor and writer who was born in Sant'Elpidio, in the Marches - published in 1595 his monumental and important book De Naturali Vinorum Historia (Natural History of Wines).

 In the fifth book “Wines of the many areas of Italy”, Andrea Bacci describes the many areas of the Marches, identifying twenty different territories, as well as the cultivation and wines making techniques typical in this region. Andrea Bacci particularly emphasizes the white berries grapes trebulane and malvasie, white and black moscatelle grapes with which were produced sweet wines, as well as mentioning the Lacrima, the grape that today is having a renewed success thanks to its wines. Viticulture and wine production were very common in the Marches far before the times of Andrea Bacci, a spreading began in the 1200s and since those times regulated by specific laws and regulations about how and what should be planted in vineyards. At those times there also were laws for the safeguarding of wine genuineness, severely punishing the ones who adulterated it or, for example, diluted wine with water before selling it. In 1579, in a document which regulated the type of vines to be planted in a vineyard, it is mentioned for the first time the Verdicchio grape referred to the territory of Matelica.

 In the beginning of the 1800s, the agriculture in the Marches was mainly characterized by the cultivation of cereals and fields were crossed by rows of vines, a cultural sharing which allowed the production from the same field of the two main goods for the survival of people: bread and wine. At those times the most cultivated white grapes - as well as considered to be the best - were Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Moscatello Bianco and Uva Bianca della Maddalena; among red grapes, the best ones were Balsamina, Vernaccia and Moscatello Aleatico. Still in the 1800s are found witnesses about the difficulty of keeping wines, and therefore it was suggested to cook the must in order to make the so called “cooked wine” (vino cotto), a tradition still alive in the Piceno area and which is also found in the Abruzzo region. An event which contributed to the change and to the development, not only of viticulture in the Marches, but also of the agriculture of the region, was the institution at the end of the 1800s - thanks to the abbot Rinaldi - of “Cattedre Ambulanti per l'Agricoltura” - schools for agriculture founded in many cities - in particular at Jesi, Osimo and Ascoli Piceno, providing a fundamental contribution to the development of agriculture in the Marches.

 In the 1900s is still confirmed the importance of the Piceno area as the main producer of wines in the region, in particular the wines produced with Sangiovese and Montepulciano grapes, whereas in the northern part the production was mainly about white wines from Verdicchio, Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes. In the 1950s will take place the first important event which boosted the selling of the wine of the region. Angelini family, proprietors of the Fazi Battaglia, published a contest in which participants were asked to design the bottle which will have characterized the commercialization of Verdicchio. In 1953, Antonio Maiocchi, an architect from Milan, designed the amphora shaped bottle which is still today associated to Verdicchio. The amphora shape was chosen because it reminded the typical Etruscan wine container and also the label was written with characters reminding the Etruscan writing, emphasizing the will to keep a strong connection between this wine and its history. One of the first and most important commercial operation about wine was just born: in 1970 will be sold all over the world one million and a half of Verdicchio amphorae.

 The notoriety of amphora bottle will play and important role for the revaluation and development of Verdicchio, today one of the most interesting autochthonous white berried grapes of Italy. Whether Verdicchio is a great grape capable of great wines it is not a mystery anymore - frequently capable of full bodied wines as to be defined red wines with a white color - however, despite the notoriety of this grapes, in the Marches are also found other interesting autochthonous grapes which in recent times have become internationally renowned. Among them, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba and, in particular, Vernaccia Nera di Serrapetrona, the wines of this latter grape have recently acquired the status of Denominazione di Origine Controllate e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG), together with the other famous red wine of Marches: Rosso Conero. Among the other wines which are getting more and more known in recent times, should be mentioned the excellent Rosso Piceno that - just like Rosso Conero - is produced with Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes. Finally, of particular interest is the vast production of Indicazione Geografica Tipica wines (Typical Geographic Indication, IGT) that, in many aspects, are defining a new course in the history of quality wines in the Marches.

 Wines of Marches are classified according to the quality system in force in Italy which provides for Vini da Tavola (Table Wines), Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Typical Geographic Indication, IGT), Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG). In 2004 Marches has obtained the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita for two wines: Vernaccia di Serrapetrona - produced with the homonymous red berried grape in the dry, sweet and sparkling styles - and Rosso Conero, produced with Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes. In the Marches, besides the two DOCG areas, are being defined 14 Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (DOC) areas: Bianchello del Metauro, Colli Maceratesi, Colli Pesaresi, Esino, Falerio dei Colli Ascolani o Falerio, I Terreni di Sanseverino, Lacrima di Morro o Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, Offida, Pergola, Rosso Conero, Rosso Piceno, Serrapetrona, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica.

 The territory of the Marches offers a pretty wide variability of landscapes. The western part of the region is characterized by the Apennines and by going eastwards, after having crossed hilly territories divided by valleys, it is finally met the Adriatic sea. The cultivation of the vine in the Marches is mainly done in the hilly areas and the main varieties found in vineyards are Verdicchio, Trebbiano Toscano, Montepulciano and Sangiovese. In recent times it has been seen a more and more frequent presence in vineyards of the so called international grapes, sometimes used for the production of wines blended with other local grapes. The white berried grapes mainly cultivated in the Marches are Verdicchio, Trebbiano Toscano, Bianchello, Maceratino, Pecorino and Passerina; whereas the most typical red berried varieties include Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Vernaccia Nera and Lacrima, the latter two almost exclusively and respectively found in the territories of Serrapetrona and Morro d'Alba. Among the international varieties are found Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir.

 One of the most famous grapes of Marches, the one which has contributed more than other to the affirmation of the enology of this region, certainly is Verdicchio. This renowned white berried grape is the absolute protagonist of two Denominazione d'Origine Controllata areas of the Marches: Castelli di Jesi and Matelica. Two different ways of interpreting Verdicchio: it is very hard to tell what is the best of the two because they both are excellent. Of the two, the most famous certainly is the one from Castelli di Jesi and which provides for the definition of the classic area, that is the most typical and traditional one, and recently, the reserve indication that, together with Verdicchio di Matelica, is among the few Italian white wines to have it. Verdicchio is an extremely versatile grape and besides the production of dry wines, it is also used for sweet and sparkling wines. The characteristics of wines produced with Verdicchio are pretty varied, from light and crisp wines, to robust and structured wines, whose body can also be increased by the aging in cask.

 Red wines from Marches are mainly produced with Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes, of which the most famous representatives are Rosso Conero - which in 2004 has obtained the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) for the riserva style - and Rosso Piceno, produced in a pretty wide area which goes from the southern part of the region to the borders of the province of Pesaro. The main grape in both wines is Montepulciano - which must be present for at least 85% - to which it is sometimes added Sangiovese. Of the two wines, Rosso Conero is the most famous one, produced in the promontory of Conero - from which it takes its name - near the city of Ancona. Despite the two wines are produced with the same grapes, Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno express very different qualities. Rosso Conero in fact benefits of an absolutely particular microclimate because of its position near the Adriatic sea: the influence of sea breezes, as well as the limestone composition of the soil, make this wine unique in its genre.

 Vernaccia di Serrapetrona - in the province of Macerata - after having been underrated for many years and not very considered in the Italian wine making scene, has been the first area of Marches to obtain the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita status (DOCG). The production of this wine is pretty limited, in fact the total acreage of vineyards is of about 45 hectares. Vernaccia di Serrapetrona represents a very special case in the Italian wine making scene, as it is a sparkling red wine produced in the dry and sweet styles. The production of this sparkling wine is rather particular. After harvesting, a part of the grapes are vinified according to the method of red wine making, whereas a part is allowed to dry in order to concentrate the quantity of sugar. Dried grapes are then crushed and the must is added to the first wine, therefore starting a second fermentation. The production of Vernaccia di Serrapetrona ends with the procedure of sparkling wine making which will give the wine its characteristic pink foam and its unmistakable aromas.

 Among the other famous wines and areas of Marches, a particular mention goes to Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, a red wine which in recent times is getting more and more popular among consumers. Obtained by the vinification of Lacrima grape, this wine is produced in two styles. The first one consists in bottling the wine in advance in order to obtain a lively wine and to be drunk young, the second style is produced according to the traditional red wine making method. Among the other wines of Marches are mentioned Bianchello del Metauro - produced in the province of Pesaro with the Bianchello grape, also known as Biancame - and Falerio dei Colli Ascolani. Other interesting areas include Offida and Esino, from which are being produced white, red and sparkling wines. Among white wines from Marches, of particular interest are the ones produced with Pecorino and Passerina grapes - vinified together or alone - as well as Maceratino, with which are being produced the white wines of the Colli Maceratesi area.

 In the ampelographic heritage of Umbria, an absolute relevant place is occupied by Grechetto, the most important white berried grape of the green heart of Italy. Found in almost all production disciplinary of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata white wines of Umbria, Grechetto is used either alone or blended to other grapes found in the region, such as Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca, as well as some international varieties, of which the most frequent one is Chardonnay. Despite Grechetto is an autochthonous grape of Umbria, its spreading is not limited to the green region of central Italy only. Grechetto is in fact found - although its spreading is limited and marginal - in Tuscany, Marches and Latium, mainly in the areas bordering Umbria. Outside Umbrian borders, Grechetto is almost exclusively used together with other grapes, whereas in its homeland it is frequently used for the production of monovarietal wines.

 The name Grechetto would unequivocally suggest the connection of the origins of this grape to Greece, making it part of the large family of the so called Greek grapes introduced by the Hellenic in past times. Indeed the Grechetto name seems to have its origins during Medieval times, when the wines produced with this grape reminded aromas and flavors of the ones coming from the eastern areas of the Mediterranean. Moreover, the connection with Greek grapes seems to be controverted by some genetic researches done on Grechetto. These analyses seems to have found out the Grechetto known in Umbria is genetically similar to Pignoletto grape known in Emilia Romagna and to Ribolla Riminese. As for wines produced with Grechetto, it should be remembered the particular qualities of the ones belonging to the Colli Martani DOC, which disciplinary provides for the special appellation “Grechetto di Todi”, famous for its finesse and elegance.

 According to an enological point of view, Grechetto is mainly used for the production of dry white wines, however it is very frequent to find this grape in Umbrian Vin Santo, the typical sweet wine of the region produced with dried grapes. Wines produced with Grechetto usually have an average body, sometimes a full body as well, with colors ranging from greenish yellow to golden yellow. The most common wine making technique for Grechetto - in case it is used for the production of table wines - makes use of inert containers, however some Umbrian producers tend to favor the cask or barrique. Barrique and cask are generally used for wines in which Grechetto is blended to Chardonnay, however it is not uncommon to find 100% Grechetto wines fermented or aged in cask or barrique. It should however be observed the use of cask is pretty limited and only one part is generally fermented or aged with this method, whereas the remaining part is vinified in inert container, such as stainless steel or cement.

	The three Grechetto wines of our comparative tasting

 The wines selected for our comparative tasting have all been produced in Umbria with 100% Grechetto. Two of them are from the most famous production area of Grechetto - the Colli Martani Denomination of Controlled Origin, in the southeastern part of Umbria - whereas the third one is a Typical Geographic Indication wine (IGT) produced near Perugia. The choice has also been made according to the production techniques used for the three wines: one was completely vinified in stainless steel tanks, whereas the other two have been aged in barrique. The first wine of the tasting is Arnaldo Caprai's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Grecante, the only wine of the three to have been completely vinified in steel tanks. The second wine is Antonelli's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Vigna Tonda, aged for 4 months in cask, whereas the third wine is Goretti's Il Moggio, aged in barrique. As usual, the comparative tasting will be done by using three ISO tasting glasses, Arnaldo Caprai's Grecante will be served at a temperature of 10° C (50° F), whereas the other two wines at 12° C (54° F).

 The colors which can be observed in wines produced with Grechetto depends on - just like any other white wines - vinification practices and aging, as well as the type of containers used during production. The color generally observed in Grechetto wines ranges from greenish yellow to very intense golden yellow, in particular when the wine was completely fermented or aged in barrique, a practice adopted by some producers. Concerning the use of barrique with Grechetto, it should be observed that in most of the cases producers choose to age in wood only a part of the wine, whereas the remaining part undergoes an aging process in inert containers, such as stainless steel and cement. The most common color observed in Grechetto wines is a more or less intense straw yellow.

 The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Arnaldo Caprai's Grechetto del Colli Martani Grecante. By holding the glass tilted on a white surface - such as a sheet of paper or a tablecloth - we will begin with the observation of color intensity. At the base of the glass will be observed an intense and brilliant greenish yellow color with nuances of the same color. Let's now pass to the appearance's evaluation of the second wine, Goretti winery's Il Moggio. By holding the glass tilted on a white surface, the liquid mass - observed at the base of the glass - will show a brilliant golden yellow color, whereas the nuance, which can be observed at the edge of the liquid mass, towards the opening of the glass, will show a straw yellow color. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the last wine, Antonelli's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Vigna Tonda. The intensity of the color will be characterized by a brilliant straw yellow whereas the nuance will show a greenish yellow color. Finally, it should be observed color variations in the three wines according to the vinification technique and to the containers used for aging.

 The aromatic profile of wines produced with 100% Grechetto is pretty variegated, in which can be mainly found aromas of fruits - sometimes tropical fruits as well - dried fruits and flowers. Among the most characteristic aromas of Grechetto there is hazelnut that, together with apple, pear and hawthorn, can be considered as identifying qualities in wines produced with this grape. Among fruit aromas, in Grechetto can also be found plum, peach, lemon and medlar, whereas the most frequent aroma of tropical fruit is pineapple and, occasionally, banana, kiwi and grapefruit. Among floral aromas, besides hawthorn - which is the most frequent aroma belonging to this family - it can be perceived broom and, sometimes, chamomile and acacia. The aging in wood gives Grechetto aromas of vanilla and toasted wood, however - thanks to the frequent choice of producers of aging a part of wine only - the organoleptic qualities of wood do not tend to prevail over the aromatic characteristic of Grechetto, although well perceptible.

 Let's begin the evaluation of aromas of the wines of our comparative tasting, by evaluating the only wine of the three to be completely produced in steel tanks: Arnaldo Caprai's Grechetto del Colli Martani Grecante. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling it, we will begin the evaluation of opening aromas. After the first smell will be perceived from the glass aromas of pear, peach and hazelnut, the first and the third one being very typical in Grechetto. After having swirled the glass, in order to favor a proper oxygenation of the wine, it will be done the second smell which will allow the perception of other aromas, such as pear, hawthorn and broom - aromas that also in this case are very frequent and typical in Grechetto - as well as a pleasing aromas of pineapple, the most frequent tropical fruit aroma which can be found in wines produced with this autochthonous grape of Umbria. Let's now pass to the olfactory evaluation of the second wine: Goretti winery's Il Moggio.

 The first smell, which allows the perception of opening aromas of the wine and done by holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling it, will reveal aromas of apple, pear and hazelnut, all the three being characteristic and identifying of Grechetto. After having swirled the glass, we will then proceed with the second smell. The aromatic profile of Il Moggio will be completed by hawthorn and broom - the two most typical floral aromas of Grechetto - citrus fruits, plum and vanilla, the latter being given by the partial aging in barrique. The comparative tasting will now proceed with the last of the three wines: Antonelli's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Vigna Tonda. The first smell will allow the perception of opening aromas of apple, hazelnut and toasted wood. It should be noticed how the contribution of wood is stronger than in the previous wine, although allowing the clear perception of the two typical aromas of Grechetto. The second smell, done after having swirled the glass, will complete the aromatic profile of the wine with hawthorn, lemon, pear, plum and pineapple to which will be added the aromas of vanilla and a pleasing touch of yeast.

 Table wines produced with Grechetto are generally characterized by a strong dry taste, good acidity and body. The acidity and structure of this grape also make Grechetto suited for the production of Vin Santo. In Umbria Grechetto is in fact found in almost every Vin Santo wine produced in the region, both blended with the other grapes found in the territory - such as Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca - and frequently used alone. Dry wines produced with Grechetto have an alcohol by volume generally ranging from 12% to 13,5%, a quantity usually needed to balance both acidity and structure. In order to mitigate Grechetto's acidity and roughness, producers frequently make use of casks and barriques, although generally used for a part of the wine only. In fact, the passage in wood contributes to limit the relative perception of acidity, while increasing the roundness and structure of the wine.

 We will begin the gustatory evaluation of our comparative tasting with Arnaldo Caprai's Grechetto del Colli Martani Grecante, the only wine of the three to be completely aged in steel tanks. The attack of this Grechetto is characterized by its pleasing and evident crispness, a quality which is well balanced by alcohol and structure, as well as having a good correspondence to the nose. Let's now pass to the gustatory analysis of the second wine Goretti winery's Il Moggio. Also the attack of this wine is characterized by a pleasing and evident crispness. It should also be noticed the contribution of alcohol in the balance of acidity and, in particular, the difference in roundness compared to the previous wine, given - in this case - by the passage in wood which also increase the body. Finally, let's examine the last of the three wines, Antonelli's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Vigna Tonda. The attack of this Grechetto, despite it is characterized by an evident crispness, particularly reveals the contribution of the wood therefore giving the wine, together with alcohol, a fuller body and roundness.

 The three wines of our comparative tasting express three different ways of interpreting Grechetto, all of the three expressing good results. The finish of Arnaldo Caprai's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Grecante is persistent with flavors of pear, peach and pineapple, as well as a pleasing hint of crispness and bitterness, typical in this grape. Also the finish of Goretti winery's Il Moggio is persistent, leaving in the mouth flavors of apple, plum and hazelnut, rounder than the previous wine. The finish of the last wine, Antonelli's Grechetto dei Colli Martani Vigna Tonda is persistent with flavors of plum, hazelnut and apple, not very different from the previous wine although with a higher perception of structure and roundness. Grechetto, despite has been underrated for many years also in its homeland, is indeed a grape capable of producing very interesting wines, with a pleasing crispness as well as a good structure, two qualities making this grape very useful also in the production of wines assembled with other grapes.

 Italian enology is living in the last twenty years a moment of renewal and splendor. After a very long time characterized by productions based on quantity - in which quality was a factor found in few viticultural contexts only - in every region of Italy can today be found remarkable quality productions. Regions and wine areas which were once scarcely considered, have been capable of proving their great potentials, revaluating the unique expression of every territory, of their grapes and wines. Among these regions certainly is found Latium, that in recent times has been successful in radically change the image of its wines and their quality, once simply considered as “ordinary”, have today become real “outsiders”. The job done in Latium is exemplar in many aspects, from the revaluation of local grapes to the introduction of new varieties, from the drastic change in the production techniques to the way of communicating wine to the world.

	The entrance of Castel de Paolis winery

 Among the wineries which strongly contributed to the promotion of the image of wines from Latium there is Castel de Paolis, owned by the Santarelli family, which in few years has been capable to bring to the highest level the Frascati wine, one of the most famous wines of Castelli Romani. The winery takes its name from one of the most important fortresses for the control of Roman countrysides during Medieval times. Castel de Paolis fortress was built upon the ruins of a villa dated back to Roman times that, thanks to its strategic position, allowed the control of an ancient road connecting Rome to Castromoenium. In past times it was believed Castel de Paolis hill was the ancient site of Castromoenium, however recent studies have confirmed the ancient Roman colony corresponds to the present city of Marino. Also the lands in which today are found the vineyards of Castel de Paolis were crossed by a paved road connecting the Castrimense road to the Latina road.

 Castel de Paolis winery is located in the commune of Grottaferrata, few tens of kilometers away from Rome - in the Castelli Romani area and in the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata territory of Frascati - covers a total area of twelve hectares completely destined to the cultivation of vineyards. The winery is located in a hilly position at an altitude of 270 meters in soils of volcanic origin. The history of Castel de Paolis begins in 1985, when Giulio Santarelli, together with his wife Adriana Croce, rediscovers the passion of the art of making wine, a passion which will soon bring him to dedicate all of his time to the family winery. The fundamental event will take place in 1985, when Giulio Santarelli meets professor Attilio Scienza, of Milan University and at those times director of the prestigious Agricultural Institute of San Michele all'Adige. Professor Attilio Scienza, during a visit at Castel de Paolis, suggested Giulio Santarelli to resume in his vineyards the cultivation of the ancient autochthonous varieties which in past times were capable of making everywhere famous the wines of Castelli Romani, but unfortunately at those times were not as successful as they used to be.

Mr. and Mrs. Santarelli in their cellar

 That was the beginning of a long and precious research and experimentation activity, during which were uprooted the Malvasia di Candia and Trebbiano Toscano vineyards of Castel de Paolis. They then proceeded with the search of the old vines of the area: Malvasia Puntinata del Lazio, Bombino Bianco, Cacchione, Bellone, Passerina, Pecorino, Grechetto and Romanesca, at those times rare in the vineyards of Castelli Romani. When they finally found the varieties, it was planted an experimental vineyard which gave good results. They then decided to extend the varieties of grapes with which make their experimentation, by using the international varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Sémillon, Pink Muscat, Golden Muscat, Roussanne, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The experimental phase - which ended in 1992 - has also led to the creation of a winery equipped with the most advanced technologies and in which were exclusively vinified the grapes coming from the experimental vineyards under the technical supervision of winemaker Lorenzo Peira.

 At the end of the experimental phase, Castel de Paolis winery was ready to let the results of this fundamental research activity meet the world, and catching since the very first moments a high interest from consumers and wine lovers. Wines belonging to the Frascati DOC and produced by Castel de Paolis were so impressive as to believe they belonged to another appellation: the new history of Frascati and the wines of Castelli Roman was just begun. A result - which is still today one of the most interesting in Latium - obtained by joining tradition and innovation in the essential and fundamental role of experimentation, while proving that, given favorable conditions and right viticultural practices, it is possible to keep and improve the enological tradition of a territory. The cellar was supervised up to 2003 by winemaker Franco Bernabei, whereas today it is led by winemaker Carlo Corino.

 The vineyards of Castel de Paolis winery are cultivated according to the principles of organic agriculture, with a density of 5,500 plants per hectare and each vine providing a maximum of 1.5 kilograms of grapes. Wines are currently exported in the United States of America, Japan, Australia, United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark, Belgium, Austria, France and Switzerland. The production is based both on white and red wines, completed by the interesting sweet wines Rosathea, produced with Pink Muscat, Frascati Cannellino and Muffa Nobile, produced with Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The production of white wines is composed of Frascati Superiore DOC, Campovecchio Bianco, Vigna Adriana - one of the flagship wines of Castel de Paolis and produced with Malvasia Puntinata del Lazio, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc - and Selve Vecchie, produced with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The production of red wines is composed by Campovecchio Rosso - produced with Syrah, Cesanese d'Affile, Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes - and I Quattro Mori, produced with Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot grapes, aged for 18 months in barrique.