In the editorial published in the issue 44, September 2005, we discussed about the probable promulgation of a new decree from the European Union about the possibility of using wood chips in the production of wines. The news arose a lot of rumors in Italy and in other countries of the Union, as to believe, with this new Community decree, the imminent invasion of wines having the “highly wanted” wood aroma. A fear which rightly alarmed the lovers of the beverage of Bacchus. In a pretty crowded scene of so many wines “all the same, all alike”, the chance to further homologating the organoleptic qualities of wines, and with a pretty arguable method, could not be a reason of happiness for everyone respecting wine, its culture and tradition. In other words, this fear was pretty justified. The decree initially provided for the use of wood chips also in the so called “quality wines”, that is the ones belonging to denominations which should - as a matter of fact - ensure not only the origin of wines, but also their quality. In other words, it was an extraordinary paradox!

 Everyone has the right of choosing his or her own wine, there is no doubt about this, however there is no doubt as well everyone has the right of not choosing what he or she does not like. What was rightly asked the most, it was not the banning of such a decree by the European Union, what was asked the most was a better honesty and clearness for consumers, as well as a better safeguarding for quality products. Whether there are consumers who consciously decide to buy a wine made with wood chips because this is what they want, there is nothing wrong about this: de gustibus non disputandum est (there is no dispute about tastes). Whether there are consumers and producers who prefers wines made with wood chips, this is their problem, however this cannot be or become the problem of the ones who do not want this kind of wines. It is a matter of clearness and fairness as well as of honesty. Supporters of this decree, asserted it was necessary for the marketing competition of European wines against the wines produced in the New World, where this practice is permitted and allows the production of wines with undeniable lower costs.

 In October 11th, 2006 - as it was expected - the European Commission has promulgated the new decree and therefore also in Europe the use of wood chips in the production of wines is permitted. Indeed, in its form, the new decree has made happy both the producers who want to make use of this technique while, at the same time, safeguarding the right of choice and information in consumers. Regulation N. 1507/2006 of October 11th, 2006, in fact provides for the use of oak chips in the production of wines, obligating producers who want to use this technique to write it in the labels. This certainly is a good news. Doing so, it is ensured the right of choice of consumers, although relying on the honesty of producers and the hope there are rules and procedures in order to avoid frauds. It is on the honesty of the producer one must trust - as usual, after all - because this decree obliges him or her to write, in a special record and documents, the possible use of wood chips in the production.

 At the beginning, the orientation of Italy was to permit the use of wood chips for the production of table wines only, whereas it was not provided for the use in wines belonging to superior categories (IGT, DOC and DOCG). In November 2nd, 2006 has been approved by the Italian Minister of Agricultural Politics Mr. Paolo De Castro the reception of the new European Regulation and in which it is found, besides wines tables, in Italy will be permitted the use of wood chips in Typical Geographic Indication (IGT) wines as well. The decree forbids the use of wood chips in all VQPRD (Quality Wines Produced in Determined Region), that is in wines belonging to the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG). A choice that - as a matter of fact - represents the safeguarding of quality wines as well as the fulfillment of the requests some producers asked for their right of choice, in order to equally compete with the producers of the countries of the New World where this technique is permitted.

 Let's see the details of the new European Regulation. First of all the possibility of using wood chips in the production in order to pass to the wine some components contained in oak wood. The type of wood allowed for the production of wines must exclusively come from trees belonging to the quercus species, in their natural condition or heated in the defined ways light, medium or strong, without having undergone burning processes, not even in the surface, must not show any coal like aspect or being friable to the touch and must not have undergone chemical, enzymatic or physical treatments different from heating. Moreover, wood chips must not release substances in concentration such to cause risks for the health and any other treatment must be reported in a record. The size of at least 95% of wood chips used for the production of wine must be greater than 2 millimeters. The Regulation is aware of the fact wood chips, as they give the wine organoleptic qualities similar to the ones aged in oak barrels, make difficult for the consumer to realize what method has been used for a specific wine.

 Despite the fact they understand the use of wood chips allows the production of wines at a lower cost - and this may certainly influence the price as well - the Regulation understand this practice can cause confusion among consumers and it is adequate to adopt measures in order to ensure clearness and information about the type of wine. In the labels of wines produced with this technique must be stated the origin and the botanical species of oaks from which the chips are being obtained, the intensity of heating and keeping practices. It is forbidden to write in the label any term usually destined for wines fermented or aged in cask, such as “fermented in cask” or “aged in barrique”. This new Regulation - after all - gives satisfaction both to consumers and producers, while ensuring the right of choice of both. It is then granted the choice of the producer who wants to make use of wood chips - but only in some categories of wines - obligating him or her to clearness towards consumers who, at that point, are granted the right of choice. All we have to do now is to wait for the consequences of this regulation and see how many and what wines will pass from the traditional cask to cheaper oak chips, attracted by the chances to make a wine with a “wood aroma” at a lower price. We will see, provided they will allow us to clearly see everything, while granting to us consumers both the right of information an the protection against the ones - and we can bet on it - who are already planning new frauds without paying any consequence, in a superficial world where the “smart ones” are always lying in ambush. One law, many tricks…

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 Sweet wines have always been subject of a strong interest and charm among wine lovers of all times. Considered rare and refined, these divine nectars have always had the reputation of an exclusive prestige also for the fact they were mainly found in the tables of nobles, therefore very expensive and beyond the possibilities of common people. For many aspects, quality sweet wines benefit of the same charm and prestige still today, the same reputation which accompanied them in the course of history, since the very beginning of enology. Among the many sweet wines which in the course of history have given emotions to the palate of humans, the ones produced in Sauternes and Barsac keep intact their fame and all of their prestige still today. Considered among the best sweet wines of the world, the extraordinary wines from Sauternes and Barsac - the two famous villages in the Graves of Bordeaux - are the result of unique climatic and environmental conditions, as well as the effects of pourriture noble - that is the noble rot like the French call it - on the berries of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.

	The production area of Sauternes - Barsac

 History tells us the first wines produced with grapes affected by noble rot Botrytis Cinerea were in 1650 in Hungary, in the Tokay area, and the “discovery” is credited to Máté Szepsi Laczkó, the priest of Zssuzsanna Lorántfly's estates, who was also in charge for the production of wine and vineyards care. As for the production of sweet wines in the Sauternes and Barsac areas, there are no reliable or proved information about the beginning of the production of wines with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea. One of the most oldest information about the production of sweet wines in this area is dated back to 1660. In a document about the harvesting of 1660 in the properties of the renowned Château d'Yquem, it is mentioned some details which could make one believe, although with no evidence, the wines of that vintage were probably sweet, although it is impossible to tell whether those grapes were affected by Botrytis Cinerea.

 The production of sweet wines in Sauternes was however consolidated since the eighteenth century, when one of the most renowned admirer of this wine was Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States of America. Documents of those times confirm Thomas Jefferson was used to buy sweet wines produced by Château d'Yquem. In occasion of the famous Classification of Bordeaux in 1855, Sauternes was the only wine area outside the Médoc to be included. Eleven châteaux were classified as Premier Cru, fifteen as Deuxième Cru, whereas to the top of the classification of Sauternes, was created a special denomination of Premier Grand Cru exclusively reserved to the famous Château d'Yquem: an unique case in all Bordeaux. Despite the prestige the classification can give to the Château belonging to it, today it can be said this system is not very reliable, as there are many Château not included in the classification of 1855 and that with their wines have been capable of proving to be extraordinary producers.

 The production of sweet wines in Sauternes and Barsac is strongly influenced by the meteorological conditions of the year and the right conditions for the correct and useful development of pourriture noble, the noble rot, not always happen. Because of the non favorable conditions which may happen in some years, producers in fact decide to not make their sweet wines, when the grapes are considered of inferior quality, in order not to damage their reputation and the quality of their wines. In these unfavorable years, the grapes are usually used for the production of table white wines classified with the generic denomination Bordeaux AC. This type of “risk” convinced many producers to replace the grapes in their vineyards with the more “reliable” red varieties, causing the decline of Sauternes wines also because of a lower demand and interest for this type of wines. It will be necessary to wait the end of the 1970s and the 1980s to see a renewed interest for Sauternes wines, when some obstinate producers resumed to invest and to strongly believe in the myth which for centuries gave notoriety to the sweet wines of France. Within few years Sauternes wines were on their way for success again: a renewed success which amazes wine lovers all over the world, today as it exactly was in past times.

 Sauternes and Barsac wines are classified according to French quality system Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). The prestige of Sauternes wines was already consolidated in the 1800s, as to deserve the inclusion in the famous classification of the 1855 of Médoc: an exceptional fact, if we consider Sauternes is found in the large wine region of the Graves. In 1855, in occasion of the universal exposition in Paris, emperor Napoleon III asked the chamber of commerce of Bordeaux to classify the best wines of the area. The job was assigned to Bordeaux merchants who largely based their job according to the price of each Châteaux, considered, according to their opinion, a reliable quality factor. Besides classifying the wines of Médoc, the merchants of Bordeaux decided to include the famous wines of Sauternes as well, by defining three specific categories. The highest class corresponds to Premier Grand Cru (or Premier Crus Supérieur) exclusively reserved to Château d'Yquem. The next class is Premier Cru and includes 11 Châteaux: Château Climens, Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey, Château Coutet, Château Guiraud, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Château Rabaud-Promis, Château de Rayne-Vigneau, Château Rieussec, Château Sigalas-Rabaud, Château Suduiraut and Château La Tour-Blanche. The third and last class is Deuxième Cru and includes 15 Châteaux: Château d'Arche, Château Broustet, Château Caillou, Château Doisy-Daëne, Château Doisy-Dubroca, Château Doisy-Védrines, Château Filhot, Château Lamothe-Despujols, Château Lamothe-Guignard, Château de Malle, Château de Myrat, Château Nairac, Château Romer, Château Romer du Hayot and Château Suau.

 The wine area of Sauternes and Barsac is found in the southern part of Bordeaux wine region, inside the large wine area of Graves, about 40 kilometers (about 25 miles) South-East from the city of Bordeaux. Wines belonging to this Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée area are exclusively produced in five communes: Sauternes, Barsac, Bommes, Fargues and Preignac. Of these five communes, Sauternes and Barsac are the most renowned ones and from here are coming the best sweet wines of the denomination. Despite the commune of Barsac belongs to the Sauternes denomination, wines from this commune can also be classified as Barsac AOC. Producers can therefore decide whether indicating in the label either the first or the second denomination, however the most prestigious producers of this commune prefer to identify their wines with the Barsac AOC denomination. Both Sauternes and Barsac make extraordinary sweet wines with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea - here known as pourriture noble - however Barsac wines generally differ from the ones from Sauternes for a lesser body and a higher finesse.

 The production of Sauternes wines, sweet grape nectars capable of amazing every wine lover in the world, are the result of a series of unique and unrepeatable environmental, climatic and natural factors, last but not the least, the intervention of man on the final quality of the product. Despite it plays an essential and irreplaceable role, noble rot is not enough to make Sauternes into a refined and elegant wine, a sweet wine having no equals all over the world. Type of soil, climate and right environmental conditions for the development of Botrytis Cinerea without allowing it to degenerate into ignoble rot and the right grapes, are only some of the essential factors for the production of Sauternes. Then, there is the job of man. The production of a great Sauternes requires strict and patient practices, with no compromises, probably like no other wine in the world. The best Sauternes are in fact produced with grapes cultivated with very low yields, strictly hand harvested, an operation which can be repeated even 12 times during the season, in order to harvest - each time - only the bunches showing the perfect characteristics of ripeness and development of pourriture noble.

 Sauternes is mainly produced with Sémillon grape, to which is added a part of Sauvignon Blanc and - occasionally - small quantities of Muscadelle. Sémillon, which is very common in the Bordeaux area, seems to be perfect for the production of botrytized wines, that is produced with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea. Thanks to its thin skin, Sémillon is in fact particularly sensitive to the attacks of noble rot which can easily penetrate inside the berries, therefore giving them the typical “roasted” look. Sémillon has however the “fault” to easily tend to overproduction, drastically diminishing the final quality of wine. For this reason are required strict cultural practices in order to limit the production of Sémillon and to ensure high quality levels. Also Sauvignon Blanc - which is very common in the Bordeaux region and present in Sauternes in lesser quantity than Sémillon - is particularly sensitive to the attacks of Botrytis Cinerea, while giving the famous sweet nectar of this land, aromas and acidity: two qualities which make Sauternes charming to the nose and balanced in the mouth.

 The official recipe of Sauternes also includes Muscadelle grape, however it is not always used by producers in their wines. Just like Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle is sensitive to the attacks of pourriture noble, a characteristic which is certainly welcome in the Sauternes area. Because of its intense aromas, Muscadelle - when it is used in Sauternes - does not generally exceed 5%, in order not to excessively cover the organoleptic qualities of the other two grapes. The composition of grapes in Sauternes wines varies according to vintage, meteorological conditions and, of course, the choice and style of each producer. In general terms, Sémillon is the main grape and which can also represent 80% of the composition, whereas the lesser part is reserved to Sauvignon Blanc and, marginally, to Muscadelle. The production of Sauternes is always risky, just like for every other wine produced with grapes affected by noble rot.

 The arrive of noble rot in vineyards is always a preoccupying event for every producers, including the ones who make wines with the grapes affected by this fungus. The correct development of Botrytis Cinerea for the production of these wines, requires humidity in the morning in order to allow the development of the mould, sunny and dry afternoons in order to avoid its excessive development: a condition which does not always happen. In fact it can happen that when the meteorological condition of the year is characterized by excessive humidity, the development of Botrytis Cinerea is excessive and becomes gray rot or, even worse, rot, therefore irreparably compromising the whole harvest. Moreover, sometimes it can happen the noble rot develops very late, therefore increasing the risks for the producers, forcing him or her to harvest the grapes later, with the risk of the worsening of meteorological conditions - in particular hail and rain - therefore compromising the whole harvest.

 The best Sauternes always come from vineyards with low yields per hectare and harvested by hand. In general terms, the grapes are harvested in distinct phases, by checking every bunch in the vineyard and by harvesting only those showing the right ripeness quality and development of noble rot, while leaving in the plant the bunches requiring some more time in order to reach the perfect condition for the production of Sauternes. Some producers can also repeat this operation even twelve times - usually from October to November - a practice followed by the best producers only. Grapes are then pressed and the must is allowed to ferment in barrels. Because of the high concentration of sugar, the fermentation is very difficult and requires very long times, sometimes a full year. The fermentation is “naturally” stopped when the quantity of alcohol is such to kill the yeast - also because of the presence of Botrytis Cinerea - and, as the concentration of sugar is pretty high, in the wine will be found a remarkable quantity of non fermented residual sugar. At the end of fermentation, Sauternes is allowed to age in cask for about two or three years before being bottled.

 The grapes not reaching the right conditions for the production of Sauternes - a frequent condition in unfavorable years - are generally used for the production of dry table wines and commercialized with the Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC denominations. In 1980s, in order to make wines with higher quality in less favorable years, in particular in excessively humid years, some producers began the use of cryoextraction of the must. The process consists in freezing the grapes at low temperatures, usually -7° C (19° F). When this temperature is reached, the grapes are immediately crushed while avoiding the extraction of water - in the form of ice - therefore increasing the concentration of the must. The result is similar to what it is naturally obtained in Germany and in Austria in the production of icewines, when the grapes are harvested in wintertime and with temperatures lower than 0° C (32° F).

 The history of Barbera - the grape as well as the wines produced with it - seems like a fairy tale with a happy end, a sort of Cinderella who, from a humble and subordinate condition, becomes, because of a sort of magic, to the favorite of the prince, also reaching his palace in a golden carriage. Up to twenty years ago, talking about Barbera in fact meant talking about a humble and ordinary wine, one of the many which were produced in large quantities without caring about quality, a modest wine meant to be consumed every day without asking for more. After all, by considering the tendency of Barbera to make rich yields and to adapt itself in different types of soils, making wine in considerable quantities was not difficult at all. With time things changed thanks to some “pioneer and nonconformist” producers, convinced by the fact with that grape, so harsh and tenacious, was possible to make a noble and valued wine, a wine capable of surprising for its class and elegance, something which was impossible to get - apparently - from Barbera.

 Despite all that, the impossible has turned into reality and today Barbera is one of the most representative wines of Piedmont's enology and of Italy. By adopting quality viticultural practices and strict wine making techniques, Barbera is today one of those wines which can be compared with no fears with the great wines of the world, most of the times being the winner of the challenge. With its characteristic acidity - something truly different from, for example, the roundness of Merlot - Barbera is a grape capable of making full bodied wines, also supported by its richness in tannins, with intense colors and almost impenetrable transparencies, elegance of aromas that with time can get a character of complexity, something which can be found in great wines only. Because of its acidity and its content in tannins, Barbera grape is particularly suited for the aging in cask - frequently the barrique - a process during which the wine gets a better elegance and finesse, until reaching a very good organoleptic balance also thanks to the proper quantity of alcohol.

 Barbera grape is one of the most common varieties in Piedmont - its homeland - and its presence is very important in other Italian regions as well, such as Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Umbria and Sardinia. Robust and strong, 100% Barbera wines can be remembered for their personality. Barbera grape can also be recognized when it is used together with other grapes: its pleasing and typical crispness is always unmistakable and contributes in a determinant way to make a wine more lively and particular. Of course, crispness is not the only interesting quality of Barbera. The aromatic profile of Barbera has in fact other good surprises: characterized in youth by aromas of red and black berried fruits and flowers, with time it develops extremely complex and balsamic aromas, of great elegance and finesse. Thanks to acidity and the content in polyphenols, as well as alcohol, Barbera wines can stand to long period of aging in bottle, while giving the wine a rounder and less “harsh” character, where crispness, which will always be evident, will get milder in favor of smoothness.

	The three Barbera wines of our comparative tasting

 The wines selected for our comparative tasting are produced in three different areas of Piedmont: Asti, Monferrato and Alba, the three most typical areas for the production of Barbera. The goal of our comparative tasting will be the understanding of the identifying organoleptic qualities of Barbera, the differences among the three wines and the influence of wood. The first wine selected for our tasting is Accornero's Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Bricco Battista, aged in barrique for about 18 months. The second wine is Matteo Correggia's Barbera d'Alba Marun, aged for about 20 months in cask. The last wine of our comparative tasting is Prunotto's Barbera d'Asti Costamiole, aged for 12 months in barrique, a shorter period than the one used for the previous wines. The three wines will be tasted at a temperature of 18° C (65° F), in order to favor both the development of aromas as well as the right appreciation of gustatory qualities, in particular crispness. For our comparative tasting, as usual, we will use three ISO tasting glasses.

 The characteristics of the aspect of wines produced with Barbera depend on - as for any other wine - the vinification technique, quality of grapes and aging time. Barbera grape is rich in coloring substances therefore the transparency of its wines - quality wines produced with viticultural criteria of low yields per hectare - will be pretty low, sometimes impenetrable to light as well. The color of Barbera may vary from intense and brilliant ruby red from intense garnet red hues. Nuances in Barbera get the same colors of hue: in youth they are characterized by evident ruby red color up to getting garnet red hues. After many years of aging in bottle - that in Barbera can also be of more than 10 years - nuances can also get a brick orange red hue.

 The first wine of which we will evaluate aspect is Matteo Correggia's Barbera d'Alba Marun. By tilting the glass over a white surface - such as, for example, a sheet of paper or a white tablecloth - we will evaluate, at the base of the glass, the hue of color. It will be observed an intense ruby red color with a pretty low transparency and, by observing the edge of the liquid mass towards the opening of the glass, will be noticed ruby red nuances. Also the color of Prunotto's Barbera d'Alba Costamiole is very similar to the previous wine - intense ruby red - however showing garnet red nuances. Also in this wine the transparency is pretty low, confirming the good contents in coloring substances found in Barbera grape. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the last of the three wines: Accornero's Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Bricco Battista. By holding the glass tilted over a white surface and observing the base of the glass, we will notice a deep ruby red color, pretty dark, and garnet red nuances. It should be noticed how the transparency in this wine is pretty low, practically impenetrable to light.

 Wines produced with Barbera offer to the nose of taster, a very interesting aromatic profile, of fresh fruits and flowers which gets pretty complex after a patient aging in bottle for some years. Among the most characteristic fruit aromas in Barbera is certainly found cherry - which in many cases can also become black cherry - plum and blackberry, whereas among the most typical floral perceptions can be found violet. Because of its organoleptic qualities, in particular crispness and astringency, Barbera grape is generally fermented or aged in cask - frequently in barrique as well - therefore in these wines can also be perceived tertiary aromas, such as vanilla, licorice, tobacco, chocolate, coffee, cocoa, as well as balsamic aromas of menthol and eucalyptus. After some years of aging in bottle, the aromas of fruits tend to get jam qualities and it is not rare to find complex aromas of leather.

 We will begin the olfactory evaluation from Accornero's Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Bricco Battista. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we will begin from the evaluation of opening aromas. The first smell will allow the perception of the aromas of black cherry, plum and violet. We will now proceed with swirling the glass in order to favor a proper oxygenation of the wine while favoring the proper development of other aromas, therefore we will do a second smell. This second examination will allow us the perception of aromas of blueberry, vanilla, licorice, tobacco, carob and mace as well as a pleasing and elegant hint of chocolate. It should be noticed the effect of the aging in wood in this wine - about 18 months in barrique - which gives the wine tertiary aromas which are well perceptible in the overall organoleptic profile without covering balance and primary qualities of Barbera. Let's now pass to the second wine of our tasting: Prunotto's Barbera d'Asti Costamiole.

 Opening aromas, evaluated by holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, will be characterized by cherry, plum, blueberry and vanilla, whereas the second smell - after having swirled the glass - will complete the aromatic profile with blackberry, black currant, cyclamen, tobacco, licorice and cocoa followed by pleasing and elegant hints of mace, menthol and clover. It should be noticed, also in this case, how the contribution of wood - 12 months in barrique - gives the wine pleasing tertiary aromas without disturbing the perception and balance of other aromas. Opening aromas of the third wine of our comparative tasting - Matteo Correggia's Barbera d'Alba Marun - will be characterized by aromas of black cherry, plum and violet, typical in Barbera and similar to the two previous wines. After having swirled the glass, we will proceed with the second smell which will allow the perception of aromas of blueberry, blackberry, vanilla, tobacco and eucalyptus, followed by elegant hints of black pepper, nutmeg and cocoa.

 Wines produced with Barbera grapes have pretty particular organoleptic qualities, giving the wine an absolutely unique personality. The remarkable personality of Barbera is also found on the taste, so different and particular from the concept which one usually has about a red wine. There are two gustatory qualities of Barbera which make these wines particular: full body and appreciable crispness. The appreciable acidity of Barbera is in fact a pretty unusual quality which could surprise many, however it is a very interesting quality requiring proper organoleptic factors in order to be balanced, such as alcohol and roundness given by the aging in wood, also needed to balance astringency. Barbera is in fact characterized by a pretty strong astringency, therefore the aging in wood and the subsequent aging in bottle, are always useful practices with wines produced with this grape.

 We will begin the gustatory evaluation from Accornero's Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Bricco Battista: the tannic attack anticipates the remarkable structure of this wine, a sensation which will be followed by the appreciable crispness: qualities which are perfectly balanced both by alcohol and the aging in barrique. Also the attack of the second wine of our comparative tasting - Prunotto's Barbera d'Asti Costamiole - is characterized by a pretty tannic sensation and pleasing crispness which will be followed by the perception of the pseudo caloric sensation of alcohol and pleasing roundness: a wine with a great structure and excellent balance. Let's now pass to the gustatory analysis of the third wine: Matteo Correggia's Barbera d'Alba Marun. The attack of this wine - just like the two previous wines - will be characterized by an evident astringency produced by tannins contained in the wine and a pleasing and balanced crispness, also in this case, typical in Barbera. The excellent balance of this wine - of remarkable structure - is ensured by alcohol and the roundness given by the aging in cask.

 The three Barberas selected for our comparative tasting fully express the quality of this excellent Piedmont's grape, although keeping the typical character of the areas from which they come. The finish of Accornero's Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Bricco Battista is persistent and leaves in the mouth flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. Also the finish of the second wine - Prunotto's Barbera d'Asti Costamiole - is persistent with pleasing and refined flavors of cherry, plum and blackberry. The finish of the third wine, Matteo Correggia's Barbera d'Alba Marun is persistent with long and elegant flavors of black cherry, plum, blueberry and blackberry. It should be noticed how in all the three wines the consistency of the structure can be perceived after the wine has been swallowed, as well as the pleasing sensation of crispness. Barbera has come a long way, after a history centuries long and after having been subjected to deplorable logic of bulk production where quality was never considered, this grape confirms today its great elegance and class. Thanks to the obstinacy and the commitment of many producers - such as the ones of the wines of our comparative tasting - Barbera is today considered, with full merit, among the best red wines of Italy.

 The quality of Italian wine has shown, in the last thirty years, important changes which can be considered as a revolution. Production methods, cultural practices and commercial strategies based on quality, have drastically changed the world of wine in Italy and its consumption as well. The merit goes to the many obstinate and tenacious producers who believed in the richness of the heritage found in their lands, convinced that from their vineyards could born wines with excellent quality, as to be compared, with no fear, to the ones considered as wines par excellence. A fundamental contribution to this change must be recognized - with no doubt - to Franciacorta, today one of the most refined producers of bubbles in the world, as to compete, and frequently win, the comparison with the production of the other countries in the world. The history of Franciacorta is extraordinary: in just about 30 years it was capable of becoming one of the most important producers of bubbles in the world, the first Italian classic method sparkling wine to reach the status of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG).

	The court of Bersi Serlini winery

 It was 1967 when the wines of Franciacorta obtained the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata status (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC), a goal which will lead, after about thirty years - in 1995 - to the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita status (DOCG) for the prestigious bubbles of this land. An important role towards this goal was certainly played by Bersi Serlini that, among the other things, was the first winery to produce in 1970 Franciacorta Brut. The story of Bersi Serlini winery begins in 1886, when the family acquired a property situated in “Cerreto” place, an ancient site belonging to the monks of Cluny. A site rich in history and with a deep connection with the vine and wine. The first document mentioning the presence of the vine at “Cerreto” is dated back to 1489, in a parchment concerning the census in the lands of the Monastery of Saint Peter in Lamosa at Provaglio d'Iseo. “Cerreto” will change its property many times in the course of its history, up to 1765, when it will pass under the control of private subjects and to the control of many families, until 1886, when it was finally acquired by the Bersi Serlini family.

 The headquarter of Bersi Serlini is located in a farmhouse of the monastery - dated back to 1400s and used in the past to accommodate the rooms of monks - subsequently widen around the half of 1900s by lawyer Piero Bersi Serlini. Here, in 1970, under the supervision of the son Arturo, will be produced the first bottle of Franciacorta Brut. After more than 35 years, Bersi Serlini - which recently increased the range of its products with the prestigious Franciacorta Brut Vintage 2000 - represents still today one of the most important wineries in Franciacorta. The management is today led by Maddalena Bersi Serlini - who is also the regional president of “Donne del Vino” association in Lombardy (Women of wine) - and her sister Chiara Bersi Serlini. For little more than one year, Bersi Serlini also takes advantage of the competence of Ms. Antonietta Zandomeneghi, a marketing expert, who after having worked with many wineries in north Italy, she is now in charge of communication strategies, commercial management and marketing.

Bersi Serlini's Franciacorta in pupitres

 Bersi Serlini family is in the wine business for more than one hundred years, by cultivating with passion and commitment the thirty hectares destined to vineyards. Bersi Serlini's vineyards take advantage of a good aeration and the soil is composed by a thick layer of limestone, a part of clay and silt, softened by an abundant layer of sands of alluvial origins. The composition of the soil is such to give the wines characters of finesse and elegance, expressions of Provaglio and Timoline territories. Also the microclimate found in the vineyards in pretty favorable: twelve hours of daily aeration which regularly happen in summertime, from 10PM to 10AM, a mild and cool climate ideal for the cultivation of the vine. Vineyards are cultivated by following the principles of Eco Environmental Culture, with a limited use of treatments and therefore a better respect for the environment.

 The thirty hectares of vineyards and property of Bersi Serlini, are mainly cultivated with Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc varieties, a small part is destined to Pinot Noir, whereas about three hectares are destined to the cultivation of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The cultivation of vineyards is supervised by agronomist Dr. Pierluigi Villa, by following criteria of a large number of plants per hectare and a lesser quantity of grapes produced for each vine, therefore obtaining a fundamental presupposition for quality. The harvesting is strictly done by hand and the grapes are transported to the cellar and crushed within one hour. The harvesting and the crushing of grapes are done separately for each vineyard. The cellar is supervised by wine maker Corrado Cugnasco and by cellar master Luca Ferrari. The crushing of grapes is done by applying a light force and from about 100 kilograms of grapes are obtained about 60-70 liters of must. The vinification cellar is equipped with thermo-controlled stainless steel tanks, therefore allowing the separate vinification of each vineyard.

 In one or two tanks is in fact kept the must of each vineyard, in order to allow a better control over the organoleptic qualities of each wine which will then become the cuvée of Bersi Serlini's Franciacorta. When base wines have reached the right time of aging, Bersi Serlini family, together with its technical staff, begins the tasting of each tanks, therefore making the different cuvée. Every cuvée, according to their organoleptic qualities, will be then used for the creation of the many Franciacorta styles. The base wine is then bottled - after having added natural yeasts and cane sugar - in order to start the refermentation process: the first step towards the creation of the elegant Franciacorta bubbles. Bottles are then kept in the cool underground cellars dated back to 1400s, at eight meters deep with a constant temperature from 13° to 15° C, where they will be allowed to age for many years. At the end of aging, the bottles undergo the remuage process, done by hand, followed by disgorgement, that at Bersi Serlini is done for six or seven times per year, producing each time about 25,000 bottles.