Hard times for the trade among countries. After the recent events concerning the never ending story of Brexit, another economic and commercial measure has been adopted with regard to the production and export of European products. This measure, not least, also concerns agricultural and food products, including wine, spirits and liqueurs. On 18 October, in fact, a new protectionist measure has been introduced and which directly affects Italian production with the application of duties by the United States of America. As it is well-known, this measure has been adopted for the countries of the European Union and it does not concern the food and agricultural production only as it is extended and includes a rather wide range of products and categories. The consequences, evidently too obvious to understand and foresee, will bring significant economic loss because of the difficulties arising in exporting products to the United States of America.

 I am not going to talk about the reasons and causes that led to the introduction of these measures – we have always been involved in wine and its sensorial tasting – however it is clear this will directly affect the beverage of Bacchus produced in Italy and in Europe. The consequences of these measures, in fact, have a direct impact both in the production of wine and in its marketing, specifically, in the important aspect of export. It should be noticed, in fact, the sales to foreign countries, including the United States of America, represent an important – often fundamental – share of the profits of Italian and European wineries. These measures, all too easy to guess or predict, will determine a similar response from Europe towards the United States of America, thus introducing duties for the American products entering the European market.

 Too easy to predict, the whole affair will bring economic conditions that, if on one hand they tend to protect the domestic production, will inevitably lead to losses, even considerable, on both sides. All this, by considering the current global economic conditions, will certainly not help to improve the development and prosperity of all the involved parties. After all, it is yet another repetition of what, historically and recurring, occurs when economic conditions become critical and the simple rule of mors tua, vita mea (your death, my life) is adopted. Maybe in the end, all this will lead to the “death” of everyone because the damage becomes mutual and even relevant, and it will take years to recover from the effects of this kind of policies and choices. When a country introduces duties against the production of another one, in fact, it is all too predictable that country will do the same in return. Forms of mutual retaliation detrimental to both at the end.

 Talking about the topic that concerns us most directly, Italian wine has apparently been spared from these measures, but the same cannot be said for other Italian productions of the agricultural and food industry. If the wine is spared, there are other excellencies of our country, including cheese – such as Parmigiano Reggiano – liqueurs and spirits. As far as wine is concerned, these measures have also heavily affected the wine production of France and Germany. France, in particular, has in fact estimated a loss of one billion euros as a consequence of the duties the United States of America has introduced with regard to French wines. In Italy, many have considered this measure adopted against France as a positive and advantageous fact for the wines of our country. In fact, it is easy, but obviously not certain, to foresee this could favor the export of Italian wines since they could become more competitive, in terms of price, than the French ones.

 In my opinion, this is a Pyrrhic victory, as Italy has no concrete reasons to be happy for, because important productions of our country have been heavily affected by these measures. In particular, in addition to Parmigiano Reggiano and other Italian cheeses, the price liquor and spirit drink producers will have to pay is evidently high. For these products, in fact, has been applied a duty of 25%, a measure making them – in fact – scarcely competitive with similar products from other countries, in particular those of the United States of America. It should in fact be considered, in particular, that in this country are being produced similar products and that are directly competing with Italian ones as well as with those of other European countries. In particular, the so-called generic parmesan cheese, which evidently exploits the success and commercial fame of Parmigiano Reggiano to identify a very different product, although very common in that country. It is not difficult to think, in fact, American products of this type will have a considerable commercial and productive relaunch, thanks to the advantageous and favorable competition with those of the other countries, in particular Italy.

 The estimates predict the total loss determined by the introduction of these duties will approximately be 117 million euros and most of it will be suffered by the dairy production for which a 25% tariff is expected. It is also estimated the introduction of these measures by the United States of America will result in an overall 20% drop in sales of food products to this country. Italian wine and olive oil have been spared from these protectionist measures, whereas similar productions from France, Spain and Germany have not. The exclusion of wines from the duties introduced by the United States of America has been extremely welcome by Italian wine producers and by those working in this field. It is in fact speculated this exclusion will allow Italian wine to conquer new shares in the American market to the detriment of French wine, which has always enjoyed the favor of consumers in that country. Italian spirits and liqueurs producers are expecting an export drop of about 35% with a significant economic loss and for which there is nothing to be happy for. It is very likely, Europe will not stand idly by and, it seems too obvious, will adopt equal protectionist measures against American products. An overall picture that, in the end, will see everyone defeated. Italian wine has been spared from these measures and this event could be therefore celebrated with a toast. A toast that, nevertheless, arouses a smile with a bitter taste and that seems to be, at most, a sad grimace.

 Veneto and Tuscany are among the most important wine-producing regions of Italy and their wines are famous and celebrated among the enthusiasts of the beverage of Bacchus. In fact, in these two regions, are being produced many of the winemaking excellences of Italy and are famous everywhere in the world. Both Veneto and Tuscany have a long history and tradition in the production of wines and their ampelographic heritage – made of indigenous and international varieties – is decidedly rich, both for white and red grapes. Amarone della Valpolicella, Prosecco, Soave, Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti and Morellino di Scansano are in fact just some of the wines identifying the two regions and have made them famous throughout the world. When it comes to grapes, as far as red varieties are concerned, here we have two important grapes that are protagonists in the wines of the region: Sangiovese in Tuscany, Corvina in Veneto.

 In fact, the wines we will examine in this month's tasting by contrast allow – according to the respective production disciplinaries – the use of these two varieties. The wines we are going to pour into our glasses are in fact, as far as Tuscany is concerned, Bolgheri Rosso and Valpolicella Ripasso for Veneto. In both cases these wines are produced with many varieties and, as for Bolgheri Rosso, its production can also be made as a mono-varietal wine. In this regard, it should be considered that in the Tuscan wine, the presence of Sangiovese is allowed but not mandatory and, as we will see later, this wine is mainly composed of international grapes. Valpolicella Ripasso is usually produced with indigenous varieties of the province of Verona, however in its composition can also be used grapes allowed for cultivation in the Veronese area and, among them, international varieties as well.

 The territory of Valpolicella is certainly the most famous area of Veneto for the production of red wines. It is a rather “complex” denomination which includes the production of four wines, each belonging to its own denomination, all identified with the name of this territory: Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso and Valpolicella. The wines of these appellations share the use of the same varieties – mainly Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara – and they differ in the production technique. This difference, of course, gives the wines a profoundly different personality and character, therefore the character of Valpolicella is, for example, extremely distant from the one of Amarone della Valpolicella. In this specific case, these are two wines that are found in opposite sides of the territory and in the midst of which we find – in purely productive and therefore sensorial terms – Valpolicella Ripasso.

 Because of its wine making characteristics, Valpolicella Ripasso is considered by some to be a “lesser Amarone”, indeed the two wines are quite different, especially in sensorial terms. The first fundamental distinction is that Valpolicella Ripasso is produced with ripe and fresh grapes, whereas in Amarone della Valpolicella are used dried grapes instead. Valpolicella Ripasso takes its name from the particular production technique involving the maceration of Valpolicella wine in the pomace – that is the skins of crushed grapes – used for the production of Amarone della Valpolicella or Recioto della Valpolicella. Maceration generally lasts for 15-20 days and enriches the wine with the sugar and aromas present in the pomace. This operation therefore favors a new fermentation with the result of enriching the Valpolicella with structure and alcohol. It must be said the disciplinary also allows the addition of dried grapes and leaves the producer the freedom of choosing the maceration technique. At the end of this operation Valpolicella Ripasso follows the aging practices according to the choice of the producer.

 Bolgheri wines produced in recent times owe their fame and glory to the so-called international varieties and, in particular, to those of the Bordeaux area, in France. In many respects, the modern renaissance of Italian wine was born in this area in the province of Livorno and overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. It all began in the late 1960s when Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta gave birth to his dream of creating a great wine inspired by the model and fame of those of Bordeaux. To do this, he accepted the help of the greatest Italian winemaker – Giacomo Tachis – and together they created a wine that still today is at the height of the Olympus of Italian wine: Sassicaia. To achieve this excellent result, the famous Bordeaux varieties were introduced into the vineyards of Marquis Incisa della Rocchetta, favoring Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The success of this wine has then influenced the viticultural choices of the other producers in this area, who planted international varieties in their vineyards with the aim of replicating the success of Sassicaia.

 Bolgheri Rosso, a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wine (Denomination of Controlled Origin) is definitely the son of that extraordinary period and which has strongly contributed to the revival of Italian wine in the world. For this reason, in this wine we mainly find Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese grapes. It must be said the production disciplinary provides for a maximum quantity of 50% for Syrah and Sangiovese, while for the other three grapes it is also possible to use them for a quantity of 100%, furthermore it can also be used, for a maximum of 30%, red grape varieties allowed in Tuscany. This means Bolgheri Rosso could also be a mono-varietal wine produced with one of the first three varieties listed above. It must be said, however, the choice of producers is often in favor of Cabernet Sauvignon and that it is usually blended with the other varieties allowed by the production disciplinary. As for the aging, Bolgheri Rosso must age for at least one year in cask, however, in this sense, the choice of producers is usually in favor of the barrique.

The color of Bolgheri Rosso

 In the tasting by contrast of this month we are going to compare two wines produced in different territories and with grapes of distinct origins: native varieties in case of Valpolicella Ripasso, international grapes in Bolgheri Rosso. It must be said the purpose of the tasting is not to tell which is the best of the two and the only educational goal is to compare two different wines with the aim of understanding the respective differences and qualities. In both cases the choice is in favor of wines aged in cask, possibly of the same type, for example the barrique. In particular, as for Bolgheri Rosso, our choice is in favor of a wine produced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, possibly with a small quantity of Sangiovese. Because of the enological techniques used for the production of these two wines, in particular the time required for the aging before being marketed, in both cases we will choose bottles three or four years old. The evaluation of the wines is done at a temperature of 18 °C (65 °F) using tasting glasses.

 After having poured the two wines in their respective glasses, we begin the tasting by contrast of this month. The first aspect we will examine is the one relating to how wines appear to our eyes, starting from Valpolicella Ripasso. We place the tilted glass over a white surface and observe its base in order to evaluate the color and transparency of the wine. We can see an intense and brilliant ruby red color with a moderate transparency, we can also see the object placed in contrast between the glass and the white surface. Let's now assess the nuance of Valpolicella Ripasso, by observing the wine at the upper edge, towards the opening of the glass: the color is clearly garnet red. Let's proceed with the evaluation of the aspect of Bolgheri Rosso, holding the glass – also in this case – tilted over the white surface. The color of the Tuscan wine is intense ruby red and evidently darker than Valpolicella Ripasso. The transparency is decidedly lower than the one of the wine from Veneto. Let's now asses the nuance of Bolgheri Rosso: the intense ruby red color is clearly visible.

 Valpolicella Ripasso and Bolgheri Rosso give the nose extremely different olfactory profiles. The cause, of course, is mainly determined by the grapes used for their production and, not least, the territory and the wine making techniques. Valpolicella Ripasso – mainly produced with Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes – gives the nose aromas of plum, black cherry, blackberry, blueberry, sometimes cherry, to which usually follows violet. Moreover, in Valpolicella Ripasso, it is possible to perceive aromas reminiscent of red-pulp fruits, including raspberry and pomegranate. Quite different, and in some ways more severe, the profile of Bolgheri Rosso in which can be appreciated to the nose intense and clean aromas of black currant, plum and black cherry, frequently followed by the floral elegance of violet and iris. In both wines, because of the aging in wood, we can perceive tertiary aromas such as vanilla, chocolate – as well as cocoa – tobacco and even aromatic herbs, to which are added pleasant hints of balsamic aromas such as menthol and eucalyptus.

 Let's continue the sensorial analysis of the wines of our tasting by contrast, and evaluate the olfactory profile of Valpolicella Ripasso. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine, that is the first olfactory sensations perceived to the nose. From the glass we perceive, clear and intense, pleasant aromas of plum, blackberry and black cherry followed by the unmistakable floral aroma of violet. Let's swirl the glass and proceed with the second smell and evaluate the remaining aromas of the Valpolicella Ripasso. From the glass we perceive blueberry, raspberry, pomegranate accompanied by tertiary sensations – given by the aging in wood – in which we recognize chocolate, tobacco, cinnamon, vanilla and a pleasant balsamic hint of menthol. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the opening of Bolgheri Rosso. The first smell allows the perception of intense and clean aromas of black currant, plum, black cherry and the pleasant floral scent of violet. After having swirled the glass, the second smell completes the olfactory profile of Bolgheri Rosso with blueberry and iris, followed – also in this case – by the aromas given by the aging in wood and in which we recognize cocoa, tobacco, mace and the balsamic touch of eucalyptus.

 Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast and, as in the previous phases, we focus our attention in Valpolicella Ripasso. Let's take a sip of the wine from Veneto in order to evaluate its attack, that is the primary sensations the wine produces in the mouth. We perceive a moderate and not excessively intense astringency, in which tends to predominate a good roundness and which is also combined with the one given both by the specific qualities of the ripasso technique and the aging in wood. We can also clearly perceive the pseudo-burning effect of alcohol which further contributes to the roundness of the wine. In the mouth we can also clearly perceive intense flavors of plum, blackberry and black cherry. Let's now take a sip of Bolgheri Rosso and evaluate its attack: in the mouth we perceive a decidedly evident astringency – mainly because of Cabernet Sauvignon – and the roundness is clearly lower than Valpolicella Ripasso. Also in this wine the effect of alcohol is evident, which in any case contributes to the balance of tannins. Moreover, flavors of black currant, black cherry, plum and blueberry can be perceived in the mouth.

 Our tasting by contrast ends with the evaluation of the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth, in particular, the taste-olfactory persistence, one of the main factors defining the quality of a wine. The finish of Valpolicella Ripasso is decidedly persistent and in the mouth we continue to perceive the pleasing roundness and moderate astringency, in addition to a good structure. We can also perceive intense and pleasing flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry. The finish of Bolgheri Rosso is equally persistent – therefore confirming its good quality – however the sensation of astringency is decidedly stronger compared to Valpolicella Ripasso and the sensation of roundness is lower than the wine from Veneto. In the mouth we continue to clearly perceive the flavors of black currant, black cherry, plum and blueberry. Finally, we proceed with the last smell of the two wines, Valpolicella Ripasso first, then Bolgheri Rosso: the differences in the olfactory profiles are clearly evident and distant.

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