Emilia-Romagna and Campania, from a wine making point of view, do not have much in common. Very different grapes are grown in their respective vineyards, the wines are – so to speak – the fruit of two different and distinct wine making cultures. The climatic and meteorological conditions occurring over the seasons obviously differ substantially. These conditions are not only determined by the geographical position, but also – and above all – by the morphology of the respective territories and by the orography of these lands. In the two regions, as in every other wine-growing area in the world, the enological styles and ways of making wine have lived through different histories and traditions, also conditioned – not least – by the grape varieties which, over the centuries, have settled and adapted in their respective lands. If on the one hand – for example – in Emilia-Romagna, especially in the western part, the wine culture is still expressed with sparkling wines, this style is, in general terms, rather unusual for the enological history of Campania.

 This month's tasting by contrast compares two white wines produced in Emilia-Romagna and Campania, different in composition and, of course, in character. The wine produced in Emilia-Romagna, in fact, is Colli Bolognesi Superiore Classico Pignoletto, produced with the homonymous grape, while the wine from Campania – Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco – is generally produced with Coda di Volpe, despite its disciplinary provides for the use of as many as four different grapes. In both cases they are native varieties or in any case present in their respective territories for a long time. Obviously, Pignoletto and Coda di Volpe have nothing in common, therefore they make – by themselves – interesting elements for a tasting by contrast. Furthermore, the comparison becomes even more interesting because of the differences of the soils that characterize the two territories: hilly for Colli Bolognesi Superiore Classico Pignoletto, basically volcanic for Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco.

 Pignoletto grape is certainly the white grape variety which, more than any other, represents the enological production of the white wines of the Colli Bolognesi area. For a long time the origin of this variety has been debated, including the etymology of its name, also by supporting hypotheses and theories that – today – thanks to the help of research and science, have allowed us to definitively clarify the origins of this white grape variety. In the past, in fact, it was believed Pignoletto was similar to Pinot Blanc or even to Riesling Italico (name with which in Italy is called Welschriesling grape), however – thanks to comparison and genetic investigation – today we know this variety is actually genetically analogous to Grechetto di Todi, also known as Grechetto Gentile or Grechetto G5 clone. In other words, it is exactly the most famous native white grape of Umbria and that, in any case, it is not clear how it arrived in the lands of Emilia-Romagna. However, it should be noted that in this region Pignoletto started to be first mentioned and spread in the course of the 1800s, with reference to the north-western area near Bologna.

 In any case, it is a variety introduced in recent times in these lands and, very likely, it has come here from the “relatively” nearby Umbria, its land of origin. In Emilia-Romagna, however, Grechetto Gentile enjoys considerable spreading and is commonly found throughout the region, especially in the hills of Bologna and Imola. In this regard, it should be noted in the territory of Colli Bolognesi, Pignoletto is recognized as Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin wine (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita, DOCG) therefore belonging to the highest level of the Italian wine quality system. The production disciplinary provides for frizzante (slightly sparkling), spumante (sparkling), superiore and classico superiore styles, for which is required a minimum quantity of 85% of Pignoletto, with the exception of the classico superiore style, for which the minimum amount must be 95%. As for the aging, it is also allowed the use of the wooden cask.

 Lacryma Christi – literally, Christ's tears – is certainly the most famous and well-known wine of Vesuvio appellation, the renowned Vesuvius volcano of Campania and which surrounding area is recognized as a Denomination of Controlled Origin (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata, DOC). The origin of the name is clearly attributable to popular legends of a Christian religious nature and, in this regard, it should be noted the quality of the wines of these lands was already well-known and appreciated at the time of the ancient Romans. From a regulatory point of view, Lacryma Christi is a special mention of the Vesuvio DOC denomination and is produced in the styles white, rosé, red, sparkling white and fortified white. The production of the white styles involves the use of Coda di Volpe (literally “fox tail”, for a minimum of 35%), Verdeca (45% maximum), Falanghina and Greco (20% maximum) grapes. In this regard, it should be noted that, in most cases, the production of this style of wine is based on the exclusive use of Coda di Volpe variety.

 The allowed varieties for the production of the rosé and red styles are Piedirosso (minimum 50%), Sciascinoso (maximum 30%) and possibly Aglianico (maximum 20%). It should also be noted that for wines called “Lacryma Christi” the maximum yield of grapes into wine must not exceed 65%. Coda di Volpe – the main grape of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco – is a native variety of Campania and is found throughout the entire region. Grape of ancient origins, it was already known at the time of the ancient Romans, appreciated for the quality of its wines. The name derives from the shape of the bunches which, in the lower apical part, tend to “curve” to one side, so to recall the tail of a fox. Variety not easy to grow and from which make wine – it is not very vigorous and gives modest yields, when it reaches full ripeness it is characterized by a high quantity of sugar and a low total acidity – it requires wine making criteria of remarkable quality. Despite these characteristics, many producers in Campania, including those of the Vesuvio area, have been able to prove the interesting potentials of this grape also vinified alone, a custom that – traditionally speaking – was considered unsuitable for Coda di Volpe.

The color of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco

 Let's proceed with the choice of the two bottles that we will pour into our glasses and compare them in this month's tasting by contrast. We will make sure – for both wines – that they belong to the most recent vintage and are produced using inert containers, preferably the steel tank. This wine making characteristic will allow the appreciation of the specific qualities of the wine, in particular the expression of the grapes in relation to the territory and, of course, the result of the secondary organoleptic sensations, that is, those deriving from alcoholic fermentation. As for Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto – despite the production disciplinary provides for the minimum use of 95% of the homonymous grape – we will make sure that it is produced with 100% Pignoletto. We will do the same for Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco, therefore we will make sure the wine is exclusively produced with Coda di Volpe grape. The two wines are poured into tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 Let's pour the two wines of this month's tasting by contrast into their respective glasses and begin the sensorial evaluation, examining their appearance, specifically, color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto. By tilting the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and by observing the base, let's assess the color. Pignoletto has a bright straw yellow color and high transparency. The nuance, observed near the opening of the glass, reveals a straw yellow color tending to greenish. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco and, as for the previous wine, let's tilt the glass over the white surface. The color of the wine from Campania – observed at the base of the glass – reveals an intense straw yellow hue and high transparency. The nuance, observed at the edge of the glass, towards the opening, reveals a greenish yellow color.

 The aromas expressed by wines produced with Pignoletto and Coda di Volpe grapes are quite different and – in this sense – Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto and Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco are no exception when compared one to each other. Pignoletto, which should be noted is the name with which Grechetto Gentile is traditionally called in Emilia-Romagna, is recognized for the pleasing aromas of fruits and flowers, in particular apple, pear and plum, as well as hawthorn and broom. Just like the wines produced with this grape in Umbria, the homeland of Grechetto Gentile, a pleasing hint of hazelnut and almond is often perceived. Coda di Volpe, in particular in the expression of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco, is characterized by aromas directly recalling apple, pear and peach, frequently followed by sensations reminiscent of exotic fruit, in particular pineapple. Of course, Coda di Volpe wines also express olfactory qualities reminiscent of flowers, in particular hawthorn and broom, sometimes followed by acacia.

 Let's resume the sensorial analysis of the wines of our tasting by contrast, by examining the respective olfactory profiles. Just like the previous phase, let's start from Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto. By holding the glass of this wine in vertical position and, without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to appreciate its opening aromas, that is the identifying ones. On the nose we appreciate aromas of apple, pear, plum as well as the floral sensation in which can be recognized hawthorn. After having swirled the glass, let's do the second smell which will complete the olfactory profile of Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto with broom, peach and pineapple as well as sensations reminiscent of citrus fruits, hazelnut and almond. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco, in particular, to the opening aromas. From the glass emerge aromas of apple, pear and peach and a floral note in which can be recognized broom. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile of the wine from Campania is completed with plum, pineapple, hawthorn, acacia, almond and, frequently, a pleasing hint of anise.

 Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting – like in the previous phases – from Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto. Let's take a sip of this wine and evaluate the attack, that is its primary and identifying gustatory sensations. In the mouth can be immediately perceived the crispness given by the acidity as well as a sensation of good structure. The wine finds its balance thanks to the effects of alcohol as well as the moderate sensation of roundness. In the mouth are perceived, confirming a good correspondence to the nose, the flavors of apple, pear and plum. Let's now move on to the gustatory evaluation of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco and take a sip of this wine in order to appreciate its attack. In the mouth we immediately perceive a good acidity that finds balance both with the action of alcohol and roundness, generally more intense than the previous wine. The structure of this wine is very good and in the mouth are perceived the flavors of pear, apple, peach and pineapple.

 We have reached the final phase of the tasting by contrast of this month, therefore let's evaluate the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence, primary factor in the quality of every wine. After having swallowed the sample of Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto, in the mouth we can appreciate a good persistence in which we continue to perceive the sensation of crispness in addition to the flavors of apple, plum and hazelnut, as well as a pleasant bitter sensation in which we can recognize almond. The finish of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco is persistent and the pleasing crispness continues to be perceived in the mouth as well as a slightly more intense sensation of roundness than the wine from Emilia-Romagna. In the mouth are clearly perceived the flavors of pear, apple, peach and pineapple. Let's now place the two glasses next to each other and proceed with the last comparative smell: the aromas expressed by the two wines are still clearly different and distant.