From an enological and viticultural point of view, Italy holds a record
impossible to achieve for any other country in the world. Italy, in fact, counts
the largest number of native varieties of wine grapes, a record that has no equal
elsewhere and with a consistent gap even on the country that occupies second
place. According to the National Register of Wine Grape Varieties of Italy, there
are 610 different registered grapes, both native and international. A
considerable number, which – to be precise – could increase considerably in
case the various existing clones of many varieties would be counted as well. An
important heritage that undeniably places Italy at the top for diversity and
ampelographic richness, testifying the long and consolidated winemaking history
of this country. In the vineyards of every Italian region can be found, without
any difficulty, several native grape vines, often attributable to small
territories, such as municipalities. Moreover, in many cases, these varieties
have such an identity that they are not present anywhere else, not only in
the region, but throughout the whole country.
An impressive heritage of viticultural biodiversity which, at least in theory,
should guarantee an enormous advantage in enological terms. For the majority of
the indigenous varieties, that's exactly the case. For others, however, this does
not correspond to a clear advantage, at least in terms of the market and
commercial competition. The fact of having a magnificent and rich heritage of
autochthonous varieties, in fact, does not mean that all of them are impeccably
extraordinary in enological or viticultural terms. On closer inspection, in fact,
wines produced with some autochthonous varieties do not exactly correspond to
important enological criteria, at least if we evaluate them with the modern
market and consumers' expectations. In this regard, dozens of examples could be
given, a very long list of cases, territories and wines which – evidently – do
not achieve the desired success despite the commitment and tenacity of the
producers in trying to keep a native grape alive as well as the related
wine.
Very often it is about operations having the purpose of resuscitating
varieties sunk into oblivion for decades, rediscovered more or less by chance,
and then brought back to life by extolling the extraordinary identity value of a
territory. In these cases, which actually occur more and more often, I always
wonder why a certain autochthonous variety has been forgotten for so long,
despite its rediscovery always and inevitably promises the highest peaks of the
enological Olympus. There must certainly be a reason and it cannot be only
because of simple distraction or ominous and wretched fate. After all, if certain
varieties have been neglected for decades, there have certainly been valid
reasons which have pushed the winemakers of the past towards other varieties. The
answer, in this case, is all too simple: the abandonment of a variety – and this
does not apply to viticulture only – is justified both by the scarce productive
results and by the difficulty of cultivation in relation to what is obtained.
To be honest, it should be noted that many of the autochthonous Italian varieties
have been sacrificed in the past decades in favor of the so-called
international varieties which promised great wines and extremely profitable
productions. They were even called ameliorative grapes because they were
recognized as having an enological superiority. Many of the autochthonous
varieties have been therefore uprooted from the vineyards of Italy – thereby
consigning them to oblivion – to make room for those varieties which promised to
replicate the enological glory of other countries, in particular France.
For this reason, the vineyards of Italy have been cheerfully invaded by Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, just to mention the most famous examples. In
other cases, and I am talking about an even more distant time, it was phylloxera
that caused certain autochthonous varieties to disappear from the vineyards of
Italy, certainly the most nefarious event that marked viticulture and winemaking
in the 1900s. Also in that case, the vineyards decimated by the dreaded aphid,
were repopulated with varieties, transformed in the meantime resistant and
mainly of French origin.
The rediscovery, or better to say, the re-evaluation of certain autochthonous
varieties forgotten for decades, it is promptly turned into an event of
affirmation of the identity and value of a territory, always supported by an
alleged concept of high quality since it is a historical and traditional value of
those lands. No offense to anyone, in my opinion native does not imply
excellent. However, the message that they try to support – for evident and
legitimate economic and market interests – is that autochthonous, better if
forgotten for decades, always corresponds to the marvel of excellent wines,
viticultural and enological miracles, magnificent traditions which, as such, are
of the highest quality regardless. With a movement of fierce parochialism,
because of the rediscovered identity and history of a territory, the usual and
inevitable sequence of events punctually begin, claiming, often demanding, the
immediate legal recognition of this rediscovered and essential enological
quality. It usually begins a war to claim recognition as a
Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin,
DOC), sometimes also reaching the highest peak of the Italian system represented
by the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of
Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG).
I am not criticizing the rediscovery and re-evaluation of autochthonous varieties
and territories: as I have already said, the ampelographic heritage of Italy is
absolutely unique in the world and represents an unrepeatable wealth elsewhere.
However, it is almost impossible for me not to think, except in cases of ominous
disasters that decreed its oblivion, that abandoning one variety in favor of
others was undeniably a very precise choice made by the vintners of the past. A
choice which, evidently, was not determined by the fact they were not so
intelligent or superficial in choosing the varieties they decided to cultivate
in their vineyards. More simply, a trivial choice of convenience that ensured the
best result with the least effort, both economic and agricultural. Varieties
– and not only grapes – were abandoned simply because it was no longer
convenient to cultivate them, probably not even from a qualitative and enological
point of view. This is something that has always happened in agriculture and
continues to happen: it is enough to simply consider, for example, the massive
conversion of agricultural surfaces in favor of more profitable and favorable
crops. Vine and grapes are no exception, of course.
From a purely enological and sensorial point of view, these rediscoveries of
proud identity do not always correspond to sensational and memorable results.
Modern wine making techniques often help, and not a little, to contribute to the
production of better wines, often with evident forcing, even at the cost of
creating characters which in reality do not belong to those grapes. In other
cases, however, modern enology succeeds to enhance some varieties, finally
capable of expressing their identity, impossible to enhance with the techniques
of the past. Of course, quality modern viticultural and agronomic practices also
contribute to this and, without which, no grape and no wine would be able to
achieve a significant result, despite the enological magic which can be
performed in the winery. Sometimes – and I admit this may be because of my
limits – I find in the glass wines of rediscovered and re-evaluated native
varieties which, frankly, say nothing and with non-existent personalities. Wines
which would go unnoticed in comparison with any other wine, overwhelmed by
enological practices decidedly much bigger and more powerful than them, or
insufficient and inadequate, if not wrong. It is, very likely, my fault, as if a
wine is produced with a native variety, rediscovered and re-evaluated with great
pomp, it must necessarily be sublime and of impeccable absolute quality. Without
exception, of course.
Antonello Biancalana
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