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 Wine Tasting  Share this article     Summary of Wine Producers column Events 
  Wine Producers Issue 22, September 2004   
I BorboniI Borboni Cellar JournalCellar Journal  Contents 
Issue 21, Summer 2004 Follow DiWineTaste on Follow DiWineTaste on TwitterIssue 23, October 2004

I Borboni

The firm will of revaluating Asprinio, the renowned and ancient grape of the Aversa territory, is just one of the merits of this interesting winery to the contribution for the keeping of the ancient wine making tradition in Campania

 Among the ancient and historical autochthonous grapes of Italy, a relevant place certainly is occupied by Asprinio, whose qualities were already known in Roman times and many authors - including Pliny the Elder - praised its wines in their writings. The indisputable homeland of Asprinio grape is the territory of Aversa - in the province of Caserta, Italy - where it is still being cultivated today with the traditional method of vite maritata (married vine), a typically Etruscan viticultural system in which the vine is trained in trees having long trunks, usually poplar. Despite the system is now less and less used, it is still possible to see - by traveling in the countryside neighboring Aversa - the evocative view of the so called alberate Aversane (Aversan trees) which point high to the sky and even reaching a height of 15 meters (about 50 feet). In this land works since about one century the winery of Numeroso family which always paid a particular attention to Asprinio, the local and historical white berried grape.


The harvesting of ``vite maritata''
The harvesting of “vite maritata”

 The winery of Numeroso family - owners of “I Borboni” branding - was established in the beginning of 1900's and since those times they were involved in the cultivation of Asprinio by using the traditional system of “alberata”. The trend for a massive bulk production - typical in the 1960's - converted the Numeroso winery in grapes providers for a very famous Italian spirit and liquor producer which used the grapes for the production of sparkling wines and brandies very renowned at those times. The first and fundamental change towards a quality production was thanks to the intuition of Mr. Gabriele Lovisetto - a former director of Buton - who at the beginning of 1970's convinced the Numeroso family to make drastic changes and innovations in the vineyards, by replacing the traditional “alberata” system with modern viticultural techniques. At the end of 1970's Numeroso winery begins the first experimentations about making sparkling wines with Asprinio and - encouraged by the first results - in 1982 decided to establish the “I Borboni” winery. It was during this important phase that Cavaliere Nicola Numeroso showed all of its tenacity and decided to concentrate his efforts on the revaluation of Asprinio, which at those times was seriously in danger of extinction from the countryside of Aversa. The results of his efforts were awarded with the recognition of IGT rank (Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Typical Geographic Indication) and later in 1993 with the recognition of Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC, Denomination of Controlled Origin) Asprinio di Aversa.

 In 1998 the Numeroso restored the family's palace in the historical center of Lusciano, built on a tufa cave, and therefore it could be used again as the cellar for the winery. In this way the Numeroso family restores the traditional wine making technique of Asprinio which was done in caves - dug 13 meters deep under houses (about 43 feet) - capable of offering unique and particular conditions suited for the keeping of wine, as well as ensuring the constant and adequate levels of temperature, humidity and light all year long. With the restoration of the ancient and traditional caves, Numeroso family intended to revaluate and keep their bonds with the most typical tradition of Asprinio wine making, even though, as a matter of fact, this a source for many difficulties in the many phases of processing, while, on the other hand, ensuring a better typicality and respect of the product.


An underground cellar at I Borboni
An underground cellar at I Borboni

 Asprinio is a very ancient grape and many are the theories about its origin. What it is certain is that wines produced with this grape were mentioned by many authors in the course of history and its quality were praised and appreciated in the Campania region and elsewhere. It seems Asprinio was already present in the Aversa territory since Etruscan times where it was probably destined to the production of vinegar and in later times was particularly appreciated for its natural slightly sparkling wines, slightly sour and thirst quencher (Asprinio in Italian means slightly sour). The traditional viticultural system for Asprinio was the so called vite maritata - today defined as alberata Aversana - a tradition introduced in this area by Etruscans and that was usually common in all the other areas where this ancient people lived. The system consists in having the vine climbing a live support which usually is a poplar tree. The systemvite maritata system was so spread in the Aversa territory that attracted - of course - the astonishment and wonder of the visitors in past times.

 The most suggestive moment was represented by harvesting. Around the middle of September, skilled vintners gathered in the countryside with their very tall ladders - about 30 centimeters wide (about 11 inches) with steps about 40-50 centimeters apart (15-20 inches) - which they used to carry in perfect vertical balance on their shoulders. The ladders were leaned on the tall poplar trees, they climbed up to the top and began to harvest grapes from the top of vines. At the top of these ladders, they filled the traditional baskets and with a rope were lowered to the ground where women and children emptied the baskets in casks. The harvested grapes were then pressed by using the traditional press and the vinification was done in the underground cellars of the countryside of Aversa - caves dug on tufa rock and about 10 meters deep (about 32 feet) - in which the must was fermented and then transformed into wine.


 

 The commitment of Numeroso family to Asprinio grape is well represented by the wines they make. In the I Borboni winery are produced many styles of Asprinio including a sparkling wine and a sweet wine. The pomace of this grape is also used for the production of grappa, the most famous Italian brandy. Two are the wines produced with this grape: Asprinio di Aversa “Vite Maritata” and Asprinio di Aversa “Santa Patena”, the former being aged in steel tanks whereas the latter being aged in oak casks. Ebro is a sweet wine made from Asprinio and ages in cherry wood cask, interesting and particular for its aromas. With Asprinio is then produced a sparkling wine - I Borboni Brut - elaborated with a long Charmat process. The winery also produces wines with the traditional grapes from Campania, such as the white Coda di Volpe - used for the production of Lunajanca - and the red berried Aglianico, used for the production of Rivolta. The production of I Borboni is completed by Numeroso Rosso, a red wine produced with Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged for 6 months in oak cask and aged for 6 months in bottle.

 




Score legend

Fair    Pretty Good    Good
Very Good    Excellent
Wine that excels in its category Wine that excels in its category
Good value wine Good value wine
Prices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the country
or the shop where wines are bought




Lunajanca 2003, I Borboni (Italy)
Lunajanca 2003
I Borboni (Italy)
Grapes: Coda di Volpe
Price: € 5,50 Score:   Good value wine
The wine shows a pale straw yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose denoted intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of hawthorn, pear and apple followed by aromas of orange, pineapple, broom and peach. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of apple and pear. This wine ages for 6 months in steel tanks and 2 months in bottle.
Food Match: Fish and crustaceans appetizers, Mushroom soups, Pasta and risotto with crustaceans and fish



Asprinio di Aversa Spumante Brut, I Borboni (Italy)
Asprinio di Aversa Spumante Brut
I Borboni (Italy)
Grapes: Asprinio
Price: € 6,50 Score:
This wine shows a pale straw yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent, good effervescence, fine and persistent perlage. The nose denotes delicate, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of hawthorn and apple followed by aromas of pineapple, broom, pear and lemon. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp and effervescent attack, however balanced, delicate, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of pear, apple and lemon. This sparkling wine is produced with grapes cultivated with the traditional "Alberata" method and elaborated with long Charmat method (6 months of aging on its lees) and ages for 4-6 months in bottle.
Food Match: Aperitifs, Dairy products, Pasta and risotto with vegetables and crustaceans, Sauteed fish



Asprinio di Aversa Vite Maritata 2003, I Borboni (Italy)
Asprinio di Aversa Vite Maritata 2003
I Borboni (Italy)
Grapes: Asprinio
Price: € 5,50 Score:   Good value wine
This wine shows a pale golden yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of apple, plum and hawthorn followed by aromas of orange, pear, peach and broom. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and pleasing roundness, however well balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of apple and pear. This wine ages for 6 months in steel tanks and for 2 months in bottle.
Food Match: Dairy products, Fried fish, Broiled fish, Sauteed fish, Pasta and risotto with fish



Ebro 2000, I Borboni (Italy)
Ebro 2000
I Borboni (Italy)
Grapes: Asprinio
Price: € 18,50 Score: Wine that excels in its category
The wine shows an intense amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of dried fig, honey and orange peel followed by aromas of candied fruit, almond, dried apricot, litchi and hints of enamel and smoked. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a sweet and smooth attack, however balanced, good body, intense flavors, good crispness, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of dried fig, dried apricot and candied fruit. This wine is produced with overripe and dried grapes, ages for 12 months in cherry wood casks.
Food Match: Almond desserts, Hard and piquant cheese



Rivolta 2000, I Borboni (Italy)
Rivolta 2000
I Borboni (Italy)
Grapes: Aglianico
Price: € 6,50 Score:   Good value wine
The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of cherry, raspberry and plum followed by aromas of carob, blackberry, licorice, tobacco, violet, vanilla and hints of aniseed. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of cherry, raspberry and plum. A well made wine. Rivolta ages in cask for 6 months followed by 8 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Roasted meat, Stewed meat, Broiled meat and barbecue, Hard cheese



Numeroso 2000, I Borboni (Italy)
Numeroso 2000
I Borboni (Italy)
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Aglianico
Price: € 9,50 Score:
This wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of plum and black cherry followed by aromas of black currant, violet, tobacco, licorice, vanilla, cocoa and hints of black pepper and graphite. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry and plum. A well made wine. Numeroso ages for 6 months in cask followed by 6 months of aging in bottle.
Food Match: Roasted meat, Stewed meat, Broiled meat and barbecue, Hard cheese



I Borboni - Via Macedonia, 40 - 81030 Lusciano, Caserta (Italy) - Tel. +39 81 8141386 Fax. +39 81 8129507 - Winemaker: Maurizio De Simone e Roberto Cipresso - Established: 1982 - Production: 130.000 bottles - E-Mail: info@iborboni.it - WEB: www.iborboni.it


 Wine Tasting  Share this article     Summary of Wine Producers column Events 
  Wine Producers Issue 22, September 2004   
I BorboniI Borboni Cellar JournalCellar Journal  Contents 
Issue 21, Summer 2004 Follow DiWineTaste on Follow DiWineTaste on TwitterIssue 23, October 2004

Cellar Journal


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 Wine Tasting  Share this article     Summary of Wine Producers column Events 
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I BorboniI Borboni Cellar JournalCellar Journal  Contents 
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