The world of bubbles is vast and rich of sparkling surprises. The attention towards this style of wines is getting more and more higher, in particular in the seasons in which the heat is particularly strong. In these periods, a glass of cool and inebriating bubbles seems to promise an immediate relief against the heat. And when we think about bubbles, choosing among Italian ones, the first names coming to mind certainly are Franciacorta and Prosecco, as well as Asti, Trento and Oltrepò Pavese. This is the sign in these areas they worked very well in identifying the product with the territory. The number of bubbles of the Bel Paese is increasing each year: from Valle d'Aosta to Sicily, many wineries are involved in the production of these wines, in their own wineries or with the help of others. It should be said there is still a lot to do for the promotion of bubbles, in particular for their identity, so frequently confused one for another, so frequently called with wrong names.

 One of the most famous cases is Prosecco, also because of the work they still need to do for the safeguarding of the territory and of the product. Maybe this is also because of the name of this grape - Prosecco is, by the way, the name of a grape, not of a wine style - which, in Italian language, may recall a basically dry wine still having some kind of sweetness in it. It is undeniable the name Prosecco is very famous, both in Italy and abroad, but it is also undeniable it is frequently used for identifying, in general terms, every sparkling wine. We believe many of you had been offered a glass of wine, even and sadly by professionals, while calling this wine Prosecco, even worse, with the odious, however common, name of prosecchino, when in that bottle there was everything but a wine produced with the Prosecco grape, most of the times a truly ordinary and dull carbonated wine.

 Generalization to which sparkling wines are usually referred, most of the times served in an appropriate way, as aperitifs in banquets or as dessert wines, carelessly served as dry or sweet, does not certainly helps the understanding of the world of bubbles. Not to mention qualitative and organoleptic differences among the many production methods, including the grapes used for the production of sparkling wines. Whether in the beginning in Italy were Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc to express the characteristics of Italian bubbles, today things are quite changed, or, better to say, this does not represents the only case anymore. If we exclude the main territories in which these grapes are the origin of their bubbles - Franciacorta, Trento and Oltrepò Pavese - in the rest of the country, besides these three varieties, in the production of sparkling wines are more and more used autochthonous varieties of each territory.

 More and more frequently in the glass, besides the charming dance of bubbles emerging to the top, we are finding autochthonous grapes from all the Italian regions, such as Verdicchio, Aglianico, Arneis, Asprinio, Catarratto, Molinara, Garganega, Raboso, Priè Blanc, Blanc de Morgex, Erbaluce, Cortese, Trebbiano di Lugana, Durella, Ribolla Gialla, Pignoletto, Albana, Fortana, Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Marzemino, Ribolla Gialla, Passerina, Falanghina, Fiano, Bombino Bianco, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera and Bianca, Nerello Mascalese, Torbato, Vermentino, Trebbiano Spoletino, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona. This is just an incomplete list - and in an absolutely random order - of autochthonous varieties which recently have been used for the production of sparkling wines. Moreover, it should be also mentioned the varieties that, in a sense, have started the process of sparkling wines made with autochthonous grapes or have however a truly long history in our country, such as Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc), Brachetto and, of course, Prosecco, once called Glera, a name which is now getting used more and more in order to guarantee a better safeguarding of the grape and of the wine. These grapes have represented for may years the only Italian bubbles abroad and produced with autochthonous varieties.

 Not all grape varieties are suited to the production of sparkling wines or, better to say, not all the varieties are suited to a specific technique. There mainly are two techniques used for the production of sparkling wines: the so called Classic Method providing for the refermentation of a wine in the bottle and the Charmat Method, or Martinotti, which provides for the refermentation of the wine in a closed tank, that is large container hermetically sealed. Grapes having appreciable aromatic qualities are better suited to the Charmat method, a system ensuring a better keeping of grapes aromas, whereas Classic Method is mainly used for the production of sparkling wines having more complex organoleptic qualities as well as a fuller body. On this regard, it should be said both methods were probably invented in Italy. The closed tank method was in fact invented by Federico Martinotti in 1895, at those time headmaster of the Experimental Institute of Enology of Asti, a project then improved around 1910 by French Eugène Charmat, whose name has been then associated to the method.

 Also the Classic Method seems to have its origins in Italy. Both Francesco Scacchi, a doctor from Fabriano who lived between 1500s and 1600s, as well as Andrea Bacci - a doctor from Marches who lived in the 1500s - described in their books methods for the production of sparkling wines. The method described for making a wine piquant - this is how sparkling wines were called in Italy at those times - is similar to the method used for the refermentation in bottle and which then became very popular for the production of Champagne. Also history of wine making seems to be, like to say, by the side of Italian bubbles produced with local varieties, as at the times of Scacchi and Bacci, the renowned Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were not present in our country yet. At this point we have to consider whether the quality of the sparkling wines produced with these grapes are interesting or not. The results obtained so far are quite different one from another, from ordinary sparkling wines to truly excellent ones. In other words, the future of Italian bubbles made with autochthonous varieties is certainly long and with a long way to go - despite they walked a long way already - and it will certainly be very sparkling. Cheers!

 Pinot Noir is a grape which does not need to be introduced. Known everywhere in the world for the elegance of its red wines, as well as for the many sparkling wines produced with it, Pinot Noir is one of the most important emblems of French enology. In particular, its red wines have always been considered as an example of elegance and class, not only for the excellent aromatic qualities which can be appreciated from the glass, but also for that crisp character making it so unique. Each grape is different from any other, each territory has absolutely unique qualities and unrepeatable everywhere, nevertheless in Sicily, more precisely in the area of the volcano Etna, there is a grape, present in this territory since many centuries, making wines of indisputable elegance and class, with a crisp personality which can recall, for certain aspects, Pinot Noir: Nerello Mascalese. Of course, they are two distinct varieties and that, according to a genetic point of view, have no characteristic in common: autochthonous from Burgundy the Pinot Noir, autochthonous from Etna the Nerello Mascalese.

 Important celebrity of Burgundy, together with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir is the protagonist of the excellent red wines of the area, characterized by a rare finesse and elegance, both in aromas and flavors. A grape not so easy to cultivate and to vinify, Pinot Noir is a pretty demanding variety both in environmental and wine making terms. A variety requiring cool climates in order to offer its best, Pinot Noir does not love compromises in case you want to get the best out of it, neither in vineyard nor in the winery. Pinot Noir, thanks to its evident acidity, it is a variety allowing many wine making interpretations, from red wines to white wines, last but not the least, excellent sparkling wines, of which Champagne is the most renowned representative. Its red wines are characterized by a not very intense color and a moderate transparency - because of the modest content in polyphenols and coloring substances - a quality meaning for many mediocre wine, accustomed as they are to recognize quality only in wines with deep colors and impenetrable transparency.

	The Pinot Noir and Nerello Mascalese of our comparative tasting

 Red wines produced with Pinot Noir are generally characterized by an evident crispness, given by acidity, and by a pretty moderate astringency, sometimes accentuated by the effect of fermentation and aging in cask. Also for these reasons, not all appreciate red wines produced with Pinot Noir: whereas for many it is the highest representation of elegance in a wine, for others it is absolutely indifferent. Pinot Noir is among the most ancient varieties of France - both Columella and Pliny the Elder mentioned this grape in their books - and it is believed the grape is present in Burgundy for more than 2000 years. Pinot Noir is considered to be “genetically unstable” and has the capacity of easily change therefore giving origin to other varieties. It is in fact believed from this grape have been originated more than one thousand different clones, of which the most famous ones are Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier. From Burgundy, Pinot Noir spread everywhere in the world, including Italy and in particular in cool areas, however the best wines produced with this grape are from its homeland.

 Nerello Mascalese can be defined as the grape of the volcano, more precisely, of volcano Etna. A variety originating from the eastern territory of Sicily, Nerello Mascalese has been mentioned in writings since 250 years ago. Its notoriety is limited inside the territory of Etna, however in recent years, many Sicilian wineries have been involved in the production of quality wines with Nerello Mascalese, therefore allowing the grape to be known outside the borders of the island. The name of this variety derives from Mascali, a town in province of Catania, an area where this grape has always been cultivated and common. Today Nerello Mascalese is cultivated in most of Sicily, however the best expressions of the grape are found in the area surrounding the volcano Etna, in particular in the territories of the provinces of Catania and Messina. According to local viticultural tradition, Nerello Mascalese is cultivated with the alberello technique in the slopes of volcano Etna.

 Nerello Mascalese is a late ripening variety and it is usually harvested around the half of October, a quite unusual month for Sicilian viticulture where harvesting is frequently done even in August. Wines produced with Nerello Mascalese are strongly affected, more than other varieties, of the type of soil in which it is cultivated as well as the exposition of vineyard, therefore making from pretty “modest” wines to wines of absolute elegance and class. Last but not the least, quality Nerello Mascalese requires a hard work of selection in vineyard, while trying to keep the yields per vine very low, a result which can be obtained with the “alberello” cultural system. Wines produced with this grape are characterized by a pleasing crispness - this grape is in fact used for the production of sparkling wines - as well as a pretty high volume of alcohol, qualities allowing long times of aging in bottle. Once Nerello Mascalese was mainly vinified with other local varieties, today, thanks to its revaluation, there are many producers who prefer making mono varietal wines by using this interesting Sicilian grape.

 Two varieties having distant and different origins, two wines that in the glass have common qualities, while offering an interesting sensorial experience. None of the wines has a strong astringent character - in both cases we have a moderate astringency - however in both can be perceived a pleasing acidity and an aromatic profile in which fruits and flowers are protagonists. The first wine of our comparative tasting is Tenuta Valdipiatta's Pinot Noir, produced in Tuscany near Montepulciano and aged for 12 months in barrique and followed by 6 months of aging in bottle. The second wine of the tasting is Duca di Salaparuta's Vajasindi Lavico, produced with 100% Nerello Mascalese, harvested in vineyards located in the area of Etna, also in this case aged for 12 months in barrique to which follow 6 months of aging in bottle. The wines are selected according to the most recent vintages commercialized by respective producers and served at the temperature of 18° C (65° F) and poured in two ISO tasting glasses.

 Pinot Noir and Nerello Mascalese are pretty similar when observed in a glass. Intense and brilliant colors, bright ruby red hues, with pretty moderate transparency. Both wines tend to show pale nuances to the edge of the glass, with colors frequently tending to garnet red as well as brick red. This characteristic could discourage some tasters, as - sadly to say - many consider a great wine only in case it shows deep and intense colors, as well as a pretty low transparency, almost impenetrable to light. This is in fact the characteristic of wines produced with grapes rich in polyphenols and extracts, but as appearance is not everything, fortunately, great wines are not only the ones being inscrutable to the glass. Neither Pinot Noir nor Nerello Mascalese have high quantity of coloring substances - such as, for example, in the case of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon - therefore in their wines transparency will always be pretty moderate and the contrary would be quite unusual.

 The first wine of which we will examine appearance is Tenuta Valdipiatta's Pinot Noir. By holding the glass tilted over a white surface, indispensable in order to correctly do the analysis of color and transparency, let's observe the base of the glass. It will be observed an intense and brilliant ruby red color, with a moderate transparency: by putting an object between the glass and the white surface it will be in fact possible to see its details. Nuances in this wine, observed at the edge of the glass, towards the opening, are characterized by a garnet red color. Let's now pass to the examination of Duca di Salaparuta's Vajasindi Lavico. Also in this case it can be observed an intense ruby red color, as well as a moderate transparency. This wine will however show a deeper color than Pinot Noir. Nuances in this Nerello Mascalese are characterized by a garnet red hue tending to brick orange.

 Elegance and class, triumph of fruits and flowers, with that right complexity which does not excessively disturb the organoleptic qualities of the wine. Also at the nose, Pinot Noir and Nerello Mascalese express similar qualities, an olfactory profile united by many common points. Both wines express in fact - in their main aromas - sensations of cherry, raspberry and strawberry, as well as plum, rose and violet. These qualities are pretty exuberant in both wines and also the choice of fermentation and aging containers is done in order to keep these qualities. Both Pinot Noir and Nerello Mascalese are aged in cask made of lightly toasted wood, in order to not excessively cover fruit and flower aromas of the grapes, enough to give a better roundness and complexity to their olfactory profiles. Aging these grapes in very toasted wood would in fact mean to cover their characteristic aromas, by completely corrupting the nature of the wine.

 Let's start the olfactory evaluation from Tenuta Valdipiatta's Pinot Noir. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we will proceed with the evaluation of opening aromas, that is the aromatic characteristics made by “light” substances and which does not need high quantity of oxygen in order to volatilize. From the glass will be perceived intense and pleasing aromas of cherry, plum and raspberry. Let's now proceed with the swirling of the glass, in order to allow the volatilization of other aromas. The aromatic sequence is completed by cyclamen and dog rose, as well as more complex sensations of vanilla, tobacco, pink pepper, cocoa and menthol. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Duca di Salaparuta's Vajasindi Lavico. The opening of this second wine is expressed by cherry, raspberry and plum, with an interesting similarity to the previous wine. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile of this Nerello Mascalese is completed by strawberry, rose, tamarind and cyclamen, to which are added the complex aromas of vanilla, pink pepper and carob.

 The ones who usually look for wines with the power of robust tannins, will certainly be disappointed by the wines protagonists of our comparative tasting. The ones looking for elegance, the chasing of opposed sensations which are however perfectly balanced, by leaving in the mouth pleasing sensations of fresh fruits, will certainly be satisfied by these two wines. There are two characteristics in common in these wines: crispness given by a pleasing acidity and the moderate astringency of tannins. These two qualities are generally balanced by the aging in wood - the choice, like we said, is typically for lightly toasted wood - in order to give more roundness and, at the same time, a higher structure and fuller body. Both grapes make wines with a pretty high alcohol volume and it is not rare to find cases in which it is more than 13.5%.

 The first wine of which we will do gustatory examination is Tenuta Valdipiatta's Pinot Noir. The attack of this wine, that is the sensations perceived at the first sip, allows the understanding the Pinot Noir's character: a pleasing crispness given by acidity, moderate astringency, good roundness given by wood, with flavors directly recalling the aromas of fruits perceived to the nose. It should be noticed how roundness and alcohol contribute to balance both crispness and moderate astringency of wine. Let's now pass to Duca di Salaparuta's Vajasindi Lavico. Also the attack of this wine is characterized by a pleasing crispness and a moderate astringency - however higher than Pinot Noir - and also in this case, roundness given by wood and alcohol, contribute to the good balanced of wine. The finish of both wine is clearly persistent, leaving in the mouth a pleasing sensation of fruits, in particular cherry, raspberry and plum.

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