What is your favorite wine? What wine do you uncork when you do not have to do
it because of your job and you like sharing it with friends? What is the best
wine? This kind of questions are being frequently asked by the ones I know or
the one I meet. I do not think the subject about my favorite wine is that
interesting and, it can be, these are questions asked with a simple goal of
starting a talk and to compare opinions. I admit it: to this kind of questions
I always answer with a certain discomfort, not because I do not hare a favorite
wine, indeed for the fact it is not just one. It is like cheating on all the
other ones and favoring just one, while being aware of the fact also the
favorite one is not my absolute favorite one. Sometimes these questions
represent the attempt of getting a personal gratification in order to make sure
about one's preferences and taste.
It is also a way to start a discussion, while trying to understand my
predilection or adversity towards a particular style, while defining a precise
dichotomy between good and bad. This division, which certainly is completely
subjective and personal, therefore debatable, also aims to the goal of judging
one's intellectual and cultural position, by putting persons to one side or
another. Moreover, in case I answer to these questions by simply saying I like
good wines - an evidently trivial and however subjective concept - then the
interlocutor reacts with a reassuring smile, imagining my concept of good
certainly corresponds to his of her good. This answer, however, is
certainly true for everyone of us, despite it is elusive and vague. After all,
no one would answer to this kind of questions by saying his or her favorite
wines are the bad ones.
Good and bad are concepts to which everyone gives a personal meaning and value,
most of the times defined in function of the intellectual and cultural contexts
to which one feels to belong to. They are indisputable concepts in case they
are considered as a personal expression only, of course respectable even
though, most of the times, they are not truly agreeable. The annoying aspect,
hypocrite and childish, it is when one believes his or her concept of good or
bad must represent a universal and indisputable principle. Positions which
are expressed, most of the times, with a disgusting arrogance, the typical
behavior of the ones who cannot support and argue their position as well as not
being aware of the fact there can also be other points of view. The sense of
belonging to something - it is well known - is a cause of opposition among
men as well as representing a reassuring social identity: history sadly
repeating; we will never learn from the mistakes made by the ones who preceded
us.
For many - and this is something happening in other contexts as well - one's
concept of good or bad wine also determines the classification of others in the
good or bad side, experts or ignorants. Categories that, in any case
and with no exception, are arbitrary and relative, therefore disputable in any
form and principle. There has always been something in which wine has proved to
be effective and successful, and this is sharing and sociality. Noble beverage
having a high ritual meaning, wine has always been the perfect symbol of
celebration and friendship. It can also be because of this reason I find it
difficult to understand when wine it is used as a mean of division and
speculation. I can understand, although with many exceptions, when this
position is used by certain producers who, sometimes, believe this is the right
way to promote their wines.
Wine is also emotion and culture: not only the ones represented by its land and
the men who made it, but also the emotion of the moment in which it is
consumed. The context, company, the particular moment in which it is decided to
uncork a bottle of wine and to share it, determine our positive feelings
towards that wine. After all each one of us thinking about a wine remembers a
particular moment - pleasing or unpleasing - and in which that wine has
characterized that occasion. Memory certainly contributes to consider a
wine good or bad in function of what has been associated to it and the moments
in which the beverage of Bacchus was, for better or worse, part of the moment.
Likewise, a wine meeting our ideal viticultural and wine making model -
technical, cultural, intellectual or sentimental - is likely to be positively
accepted. The sense of gratification and the confirmation to what we feel or
think, it is undeniable, play an important role on how we consider a wine.
What is, after all, the wine I like? I could answer, trivially, the wine I like
is the one capable of contributing, in a particular moment, to make a certain
occasion pleasing. In case I have to answer by excluding the sentimental
involvement of the moment, the answer could be, maybe, more exhaustive and
direct. I do appreciate, with no doubt at all, wines having no faults related
to any nature or cause, capable of expressing elegance, balance and cleanness.
I understand this is an answer which can be considered quite technical,
but it is also true I do not like the arrogance of who, by justifying evidents
faults, tries to support them as a good quality. Finally, I like the wine for
what it is, expression of the ones who make it and with no pretension of using
it in order to affirm something having nothing in common with wine while
frequently having the sense of a silly arrogance. To me, this is a fault, too.
Not of wine's - which has no fault in this - but of the silliness of the ones
who believe it.
Antonello Biancalana
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