It is now quite a long of time, in the world of wine, they are saying we should
simplify the way we are communicating the subject about the beverage of
Bacchus. It seems wine is a quite hard subject, difficult and incomprehensible,
what the people read or listen about wine leave them confused and distant. Wine
is a popular beverage belonging to everyone's culture, despite in remote times
it was mainly used for sacred purposes and, most of the times, exclusively
consumed by the officiants of religious rites. The original sacred role of wine
changed over time and it quickly became the protagonist of banquets and
symposia, most of the times being far away from the common concept of
sacredness, considered as a beverage capable of cheering up life and
pleasure of men. Therefore considered as a food, wine quickly played an
important role in social and popular life, an element of strong cultural and
traditional meaning.
In the course of its history, wine has always been subject of comparisons,
virtually endless debates on what was the best, on the best grapes, areas,
producers and styles. By considering the literature of the past, wine has
frequently been subject of books and it has been mentioned in many documents as
well as being subject of many paintings and works. It is simply the sign of the
importance wine has for men, from simple fellow of the table to
symbol of richness and wellness, last but not the least, a sign of social
identification. Personal assets, today and in the past, allow in fact to
enjoy the best wines: in the tables of the affluent classes quality
wines has always been found. The ones who could not afford it - today and in
the past - always had to be happy with what their assets allowed them to buy,
and they also had to find a way to like it.
Around wine has been created a specific vocabulary that, more or less,
everyone uses in order to tell wine qualities. It is not, of course, a forced
model everyone must use, indeed it is a method allowing the sharing of
technical concepts. The result of these conventions undoubtedly had the merit
of encouraging wine making quality, by communicating - not only to technicians,
but also to consumers - the criteria of a reference quality. It should however
be noticed quality is never an absolute factor: it is a reference model in
which a group recognizes a model as well as the same moral and cultural
principles. This is also true for consumers and producers as, it is undeniable,
the concept of wine quality is not always agreed in different groups. There are
factors, like to say, universally accepted to which are added the ones
of each group.
If it is true the quality of wine got better in the last years, this undeniably
was because of this type of communication which forced, like to say, producers
to make better wines. This also caused the promotion of wine culture in
consumers, who had tools and information allowing them a better understanding
of wine quality. Sometimes they exaggerated in this, sometimes the concepts
have been exasperated while making them vague and incomprehensible, however it
is also true this avoided wine to become a banal subject. A complex beverage,
result of many factors, each of them equally important in making the character
of wine, they cannot be considered superficially. Superficiality is, after all,
one of the typical factors of standardization: everything looks the same,
everything must sadly be the same.
I frequently hear producers and communicators, also the ones belonging to
certain wine associations, saying communication of wine should be
simpler. I do not completely agree on this, although I agree on the fact the
excess of technique is something mainly interesting for the ones working in the
world of wine while it is negligible for consumers. After all, it is easily
understandable consumers can be puzzled by an excessive technical talk typical
of wine makers and tasters. Wine, after all, is a popular beverage and who
consume wine is not usually interested in making it: they are mainly interested
in its appreciation. Producers, besides making wine, have the need to sell it,
even in case it is not exactly good or does not necessarily meet universally
agreed quality criteria. On this regard, it certainly is easier to sell
mediocre products to consumers having a simple and simplified culture. For
this reason, in particular in these times - which cannot be certainly defined
favorable according to an economy point of view - I believe producers strongly
need to make profits at any cost.
Demanding consumers want - according to their assets - products of higher
quality. Ignorant consumers, plagiarized by a simple culture and with no
pretensions, can be easily directed towards standardization. It is very easy,
at that point, to make someone believe a mediocre or a bad product is of very
high quality, in particular to those having a simple view. In case we simply
consider a speculative point of view of the ones making wine and want to get
the best profit out of it, the most important thing is selling wine, it is
important consumers uncork and drink bottles. The rest is marginal and can also
be an obstacle to this goal. For many years we focused on the differences and
the importance of every single factor - including territory, grapes, producers
- and the simplification of these concepts make them appear banal, even
secondary and useless. Knowledge makes a difference, this is true in
everything, including wine. Let's then welcome a wine told in simple ways,
hopefully with the same banal and frivolous tales of magic and enchanted
worlds: after all, all we need to know about a wine is whether it is red
or white. Simple, clear, everyone can understand that, in particular, when
they are not talking about wine at all. The rest is useless, complicated and
boring.
Antonello Biancalana
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