In summer, in July and August, I like to spend my time visiting wineries of
old and dear friends as well as to know new ones. Nevertheless, I try to
take a break - whenever I can - while admitting I however bring with me
something of my job in order not to be in delay when I go back home. Visiting
wineries and, in particular, vineyards, is always interesting: not only for the
pleasure of sharing opinions with those making wines and spend most of their
time in a vineyard, but also to get to know new people and new wines. Seeing
old friends and tasting their new wines is interesting and enjoyable. You can
share opinions and points of view about wine and its world, while being in
company of a good glass always giving new aromas and filled with many wines.
With friends and wine makers with whom I am more confident and I know better,
it is possible to frankly share opinions, even though in case you do not agree
on what they say. In vino veritas.
In this period, I also go to restaurants of the places where I am at,
frequently choosing them for their wine lists. My goal is not choosing - like
to say - important wine lists, indeed those having bottles I do not know
and never tasted. I in fact like having unknown wines in a neutral
place, a context not influenced by the involvement and excitement of being in a
vineyard and wineries or in presence of producers. I am absolutely aware a
restaurant does not represent the ideal condition for a reliable tasting - too
many distractions, too many disturbing factors - however it is always better
than nothing. Sometimes I ask restaurateurs or table sommeliers to suggest me
something, by explicitly asking them about wines that, in their opinion, better
represent their territory and grapes. I am however interested in bottles I
never had the chance to taste, last but not the least, for the chance of
discovering new wines and, you never know, they could also be good.
I do the same with wine shops of the places where I go. I talk to the
shopkeepers, I get information about new wineries, their territories and the
wines that, in their opinions, deserve particular attention, both in terms of
quality and for their viticultural and wine making typicality. Sometimes, I
admit this, by doing so I get precious information, most of the times pretty
disappointing and distressing advices. This is the case of a shopkeeper I
recently met to whom I asked what were - in his opinion - the most
representative wines of his territory, by telling him straight away the two
wineries I consider to be the best ones of the area. The shopkeeper, while he
agreed those two wineries certainly were of remarkable level and their wines of
high quality, he confessed - with a firm conviction - there were other wineries
even better than those in terms of quality. A quite shocking news: to see your
own references to get easily smashed away is something that can happen, however
the idea to know there is something even better makes the trauma more
acceptable, even pleasurable.
Moreover, the shopkeeper said these emerging and amazing wineries are run,
in two cases by young and passionate men, willing to keep on the tradition
of their grandfathers, whereas, in the other case, there is a well known and
successful businessman of the place and who decided to start making wine.
Frankly speaking, I am more interested in the wines of the two zealous and
willing young men - however deserving admiration - a little less in those of
the businessman who, maybe, sees in wine one of the many ways to make a profit.
In the last years I frequently tasted wines of certain businessmen who, being
in the economic condition of investing money, acquired vineyards and wineries
or restaurants. They probably believe money is enough to ensure quality,
capable of buying knowledge and skill without any effort but with
superficiality and thoughtlessness. The shopkeeper seems to be sure about what
he says and - although I have already seen the very same so many times, also
with pretty catastrophic endings - I take his advice. You never know, maybe
this could also be the right time.
The idea of pouring in the glass something better than the two producers I
consider to be the best in that area - or however expressing the same quality -
is a pretty exciting idea. I therefore take the prodigious bottles, pay
them, thank the shopkeeper, while thinking about those glasses promising
wonderful emotions. Do you know how it did end? The two wineries I consider to
be the best of the area can still have sweet dreams. Very sweet indeed. The two
wines made by the zealous young producers, willing to keep the tradition of the
territory and of the respective families on - and I sincerely admire them for
this - simply were oxidized, dull and flat in their uncertain interpretation.
The wine of the businessman who has fallen in love with Bacchus, had fewer
faults however nothing which could make you think about a miracle. A wine
having no soul, excessively processed in its making, probably result of the
wine maker's magic wand. To make this story short, it was not the right time
and - I admit it - I still wonder about the personal taste of that shopkeeper
and his vision of the territory.
In all the three wines I unfortunately perceived what I found more and more in
many bottles: approximation and the arrogant superficiality of those who
believe making wine is a simple task and that, it is so obvious, it simply
takes tradition and some money, when you have it. After all, you just need some
grapes, to crush them in order to get the must, keep it in your winery, do
something and wait. Tradition will certainly be capable of making some
Bacchus magic and then wine is ready to be poured and illustrated like the only
wonder of the world. Isn't it easy? De gustibus non disputandum est. I
know it. And I also know, fortunately, my personal taste and my vision about
wine do not represent an absolute reference. However, it is also true that in
recent years - this could also be because of the good time wine is having - I
see too many bottles result of an evident approximation and superficiality.
What it is worse, coarse faults fiercely illustrated as the typical expression
of a territory, while giving - nevertheless - the image of a poor quality
associated to one's land. Wine has many faces and this is one of the exciting
aspects of the beverage of Bacchus. Many territories, many producers, countless
combinations and interpretations. And lately, too many faults as well, even
embarrassing ones, and - for the sake of decency and honesty - they should be
kept, to say the least, hidden in wineries just for the good of one's own land.
Antonello Biancalana
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