Wine is a beverage capable of virtually expressing infinite characters and nuances. Result of different factors – all equally indispensable for achieving a specific goal – wine expresses distant sensory profiles even when one of them changes, although they can be considered apparent, superficial or even negligible. Every wine lover will certainly have noticed substantial differences between two wines produced by the same winery and with the same grapes, however coming from different vineyards and distant just a few meters one from each other. The change that is found – sometimes even significant – between one territory and another is one of the many reasons justifying and determining the existence of distinct wine-growing areas. A characteristic that has always fascinated the curiosity of wine lovers since the dawn of the history of wine.

 It is enough to think about the many documents written by the authors of the past – even dated back to more than a thousand years ago – to understand how the association of wine and territory is a strongly and fundamental principle. The prestige of many areas praised by the authors of the past is still alive today, with unchanged charm, fame and quality. Other areas, on the other hand, can be considered modern, with just a few dozen years of history, discovered – so to speak – thanks to the research and initiative of producers who have accepted the challenge of making quality wines in their own land. A result obtained also thanks to the development of viticultural and enological knowledge that, in the last decades, has benefited from an amazing progress which allowed a better use of varieties and techniques. This month we will focus our attention on wines produced in two distinct viticultural areas – Torgiano and Ghemme – in particular, with grapes having different characteristics and that, in their respective territories, give life to decidedly distant results.

 Torgiano undeniably is the wine-growing area which, in the 1980s and 1990s, allowed Umbria to acquire wine-making fame worldwide. This important territory has also had the merit of changing the concept of quality wine in Umbria, starting a viticultural and enological journey which then influenced the whole region. The main merit must be undeniably recognized to the farsightedness and initiative of Giorgio Lungarotti, a figure of primary importance in the wine history of Umbria and Italy. A path began in the 1960s and that led the territory of Torgiano to obtain in 1968 the status of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Controlled Denomination of Origin), which later became “Guaranteed” – DOCG – in 1990. A success mainly achieved thanks to the most famous wine of the territory, Torgiano Rosso, in particular the riserva style, mainly produced with Sangiovese.

 The potential and fame of Torgiano wines were also known in the past. The Benedictine monks, in fact, were aware of the wine quality of Torgiano, and they have witnessed it in their writings. The importance of the vine and wine in the territory of Torgiano is also evidenced by the regulations for the protection of the vineyards established in the Municipal Statutes of the fifteenth century. In fact, these regulations provided for severe penalties to anyone who caused damage to vines. Torgiano Rosso Riserva – the wine we will examine in the tasting by contrast of this month – is mainly produced with Sangiovese which, according to the current production disciplinary, can also be used alone. This wine provides, for a maximum of 30%, the use of other red berried varieties allowed for the cultivation in Umbria. The production disciplinary also requires Torgiano Rosso Riserva to be aged for a minimum of three years, of which at least 6 months in bottle. It should be noted that, in most of the cases, the aging is done in casks or barriques.

 Ghemme undoubtedly is the king of wines produced in the province of Novara, the only one to have reached the status of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin), the top of the Italian quality system. This prestigious wine is made with one of the most celebrated grapes of Piedmont – Nebbiolo, here called Spanna – to which can be added, according to the production disciplinary, Vespolina and Uva Rara for a maximum of 15%. In this regard, it should be noted Vespolina is also called Ughetta and Uva Rara is known as Bonarda Piemontese. Ghemme acquired the status of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) in 1969, therefore promoted to the “Garantita” status (DOCG) in 1997. This Novarese wine has a very long history and the first written mentions date back to the time of the ancient Romans.

 From the 1400s – and until the 1700s – the success of Ghemme was determined by the trading with the nearby Milan, mainly appreciated by the Sforza court and noble families of the Milanese city, therefore becoming a wine also sold by taverns. This commercial success continued also in the 1800s, a period during which new wineries involved to the production of Ghemme were established, with qualitative results appreciated both in Italy and abroad. Today the production of Ghemme has decidedly decreased when compared to other wines of Piedmont, however its quality and the particular expression given both by the soil and local climate, as well as by Nebbiolo, make it a wine of extraordinary personality. According to the production disciplinary, as already mentioned, Ghemme is produced mainly with Nebbiolo – for a minimum of 85% – and, despite the traditional addition of Vespolina and Uva Rara grapes, alone or together, many producers today tend to use 100% Nebbiolo. Ghemme is required by law to age for a minimum of 34 months, of which at least 18 in barrels followed by a minimum of 6 months in bottle. Ghemme is also produced as riserva style and requires a minimum of 46 months of aging, of which at least 24 in cask.

The color of Torgiano Rosso Riserva

 The wines of the tasting by contrast of this month share a common enological characteristic: they are both aged in wooden containers, that is casks and barriques. The production disciplinary of Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Ghemme in fact provide for a long aging period and this is in fact done by using casks. As for Torgiano Rosso Riserva, our choice is in favor of a wine produced with 100% Sangiovese, choosing a bootle from the most recent vintage commercialized by the producers. The choice of Ghemme will follow the same principle, that is by favoring a bottle produced with 100% Nebbiolo, by considering in this wine can also be used Vespolina and Uva Rara, therefore we will pick a Ghemme produced exclusively with Nebbiolo grape. Also in this case we will choose a bottle belonging to the most recent vintage commercialized by the producers of this territory. The wines are poured in tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C. (65 °F)

 Let's pour the two wines into their respective tasting glasses and start the evaluation from their appearance, that is color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Torgiano Rosso Riserva. Sangiovese, just like Nebbiolo, is a variety having a moderate coloring power, therefore its wines generally have a moderate transparency. Let's tilt the glass over a white surface and observe the wine at the base: the color is bright and intense ruby red, with a moderate transparency, confirming the grape with which it is produced. In fact, if we place an object between the glass and the white surface, this is pretty visible. Nuances of Torgiano Rosso Riserva – observed towards the opening of the glass, where the wine becomes thin – shows a garnet red color. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Ghemme, by tilting, also in this case, the glass over the white surface. Nebbiolo, like Sangiovese, produces wines of moderate transparency, a characteristic that is clearly evident in Ghemme as well. The color of the Piedmontese wine is brilliant ruby red and its nuance shows a garnet hue.

 The aromas perceived in wines produced with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo often have common characteristics, yet definitely distant. In both cases it is possible to perceive aromas of red-fleshed fruit and flowers, especially violet and rose. The differences are however evident and expressed in terms of intensity and quality, in particular, they develop even more distant olfactory profiles in case of the aging in wood. This is what we find in the glasses of the wines of the tasting by contrast of this month, a wine making characteristic on which we must pay attention. Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Ghemme are wines suitable for the long aging in bottle, capable of undergoing long times in cask, therefore also the time factor plays a decisive role in defining the respective aromas. The sensations recalling fruits in common to both varieties are cherry, raspberry and plum, with substantial differences in terms of quality and intensity. As for common floral sensations, in Sangiovese and Nebbiolo we can mainly perceive violet and rose.

 Let's now pass to the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Torgiano Rosso Riserva and Ghemme, starting from the wine produced in Umbria. As usual, the first aspect we will examine is the opening, that is the first olfactory sensations the wine gives to the nose. To do this, we hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, we proceed with the first smell. Torgiano Rosso Riserva expresses to the nose intense aromas of black cherry, plum and violet. Let's now proceed with the swirling of the glass – operation that will favor the development of aromas – and do another smell. The profile of the wine is completed with raspberry, blueberry, blackberry and rose, to which follow the tertiary sensations, conferred by the maturation of the wood, of chocolate, tobacco and vanilla. Let's move on to the evaluation of the opening of Ghemme, proceeding with the first smell and holding the glass in vertical position. To the nose are perceived aromas of cherry, plum and violet, in some respects, fuller than Torgiano Rosso Riserva. After having swirled the glass, the profile of Ghemme is completed with rose and raspberry, followed by the sensations conferred by the aging in wood of vanilla, cocoa, tobacco and cinnamon.

 Let's proceed with the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines of the tasting by contrast of this month, starting – as in the previous phases – from Torgiano Rosso Riserva. The first gustatory aspect we evaluate is the attack, that is the first sensations perceived in the mouth at the first sip. In the Umbrian wine are perceived in the mouth a good structure and the moderate astringency of tannins, well supported by a pleasing acidity, typical characteristics of wines produced with Sangiovese. Moreover, in the mouth are also perceived flavors of black cherry, plum and raspberry, therefore confirming the good correspondence to the nose. Let's now take a sip of Ghemme in order to evaluate the attack of the Piedmontese wine. In the mouth is perceived an evident astringency – decidedly more intense than Torgiano Rosso Riserva – with a full body and followed by the typical crisp sensation given by the acidity of Nebbiolo. Also in this case the correspondence to the nose is very good: in the mouth are well perceived the flavors of cherry, plum, raspberry and blueberry.

 The last phase of this month's wine tasting is about the evaluation of the final sensations perceived in the mouth after swallowing, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence, one of the most important quality factors. The finish of Torgiano Rosso Riserva is characterized by an excellent taste-olfactory persistence, leaving in the mouth the pleasant sensation of structure combined with the crispness of Sangiovese and the roundness given by time. We will also perceive the flavors of black cherry, plum and raspberry. The finish of Ghemme also expresses an excellent taste-olfactory persistence and lasts for several seconds. It can also be perceived the robust sensation of structure and the intensity of astringency – evidently more intense than Torgiano Rosso Riserva – as well as the typical crispness given by the acidity of Nebbiolo. In the mouth insist the flavors of cherry, plum and raspberry, of good and evident intensity. Finally, take another sip of both wines, operation that will allow us to highlight their respective differences, especially in terms of astringency of tannins, roundness and acidity.