I am not going to talk about the consumption of wine in young people and their relation with the beverage of Bacchus, alcohol and the social consequences of this behavior, in particular when it is about deplorable abuse and excess. I am going to talk about those young who have with wine a very different relation with wine, those who do not simply appreciate it in a glass - with a better and conscious respect - and, in particular, they took it from the vineyard to the bottle. I am going to talk about young wine producers. In the past recent years, more and more young people are committed to agriculture, not only because they have a passion for it, but also because they have to. In these times, not really good even for those who have the good will of doing, young people, as they are not successful in getting a job in the industry or tertiary sector, are getting a job in agriculture. Instead of working for just few months per year - with quite low wages and certainly not enough to ensure a decent lifestyle - young people start a farm business and make the decision of taking their fruits from the land.

 Of course it is about very hard work, away from the easiness of office's chairs, however giving the benefit of being free in the middle of nature and getting satisfaction from one's own efforts. However, it is not about the very hard work of farmers of the past, some tens of years ago: today technology and progress, luckily, make this job easier. New farmers and vintners have a different approach than the ones of the past: they study, work with a better consciousness, without forgetting the experience of those who preceded them. They consider tradition but with the awareness technology and progress offer a benefit to this job. On this regard, we should notice what we consider today as “tradition” was just a successful innovation of the past. This means it is always good to consider the past, however it is important as well to look ahead to the future and let the evolution progress. After all, in case man would have been faithful to the tradition of the past without considering the future, human beings would still be living the paleolithic era.

 There also are young people who make the decision of continuing the job of their fathers, which was sometimes the one of their grandfathers and great-grandfathers as well. Indeed, they carry it on by adding their “young” knowledge and vision, sometimes introducing modern technologies, without forgetting about the history of their families. As opposed to past generations, young people have the chance to study and graduate in matters related to agriculture and viticulture, they bring their “new knowledge” to the knowledge of their fathers. Their contribution does not however deny the family style, at least in general terms. Indeed, most of the times their job can be compared to that of their fathers, sometimes even better. We should be very happy for this - or, at least, I am - by praising their good will and commitment, as well as for perpetuating a priceless heritage to future generations. After all, this exactly was what their fathers, grandfathers, great-grandfathers and ancestors did.

 In recent years, when I happen to visit wineries or attend to wine fairs, I see more and more sons and daughters of producers working with their parents in vineyards and wineries. They are introduced, and with a lot of understandable pride, as the natural evolution of the family story looking ahead to the future. For parents, with no doubt, there is the satisfaction of knowing the effort of their job and of those who preceded them can go on, hopefully improved by new ideas and talents. They teach their children, in a sense, by holding their hands and by making them aware of the family style, knowing that - sooner or later - they will be the ones who will keep and perpetuate the knowledge of their fathers. It is not about a simple and natural law, indeed it is a necessary choice of evolution as new generations better understand what modern times are demanding, as they are sons and daughters of a new era. What they do is to adapt and perpetuate the job of their fathers to the future, by exactly doing what has been done by those who preceded them.

 The wines they make follow, in general terms, the family style, to which is added, something easily understandable, part of their character, by working side by side with their parents who usually play the important role of “guide”. In certain cases the revolutionary ideas they introduce to the family style are such that they completely change the sense of a story, it seems they want to break the bond with the past, it seems like it is a burden to carry on and to get rid of. I admit it is sometimes hard for me to understand their “revolutions” and, although it can be praised because of their will, I am puzzled about the result, most of the times following a fad instead of a concrete wine making knowledge. I am used to say all the time, what I do not understand does not mean it is wrong, it simply is something not meeting my taste or vision about wine. It can also be they are right - and this can of course be case - and their vision about wine is more evolved than mine.

 I admit it sometimes seems to me sensational backward steps to the wine model that, when I started working on the beverage of Bacchus, were considered as coarse wine making models everyone wanted to get rid of. The most important thing, however and no matter what I think or appreciate, is that young people - and they are many - are interested in making wine. No matter the reason or model they passionately follow with strong determination, the most important thing is they do that. Another highly appreciated thing, is the rebirth of a new conscience about the respect for the environment and sustainability. In a world which seems to get smaller and smaller, however needing to ensure a place for everyone - as everyone has the same dignity and right - this is a praiseworthy challenge for young farmers and viticulturists. Good job boys: I wish myself and yourselves your passion may always drive your ideas and carry them on to a successful end. A revolution can also be started from a glass of wine, even in case I do not understand it. On the contrary, you probably understand it and this is what really counts.

 The number of autochthonous wine grapes of Italy has no equal in any other country of the world. The enological beauty of Bel Paese is also expressed by this particular characteristic allowing every region of Italy to have at least one indigenous variety. An invaluable richness allowing this country to offer a remarkable number of wines, different territorial expressions in which each grape can offer a unique character. Of course this does not mean each autochthonous grape is capable of making quality wines - and the same is true for territories - it is however true this characteristic makes Italy a unique wine land of the world. It is not by chance, in fact, when ancient Greeks arrived to these lands, they called Italy Enotria Tellus. Land of wine but also of grapes - many grapes - already present and common at the times of Magna Graecia.

 Ancient Greeks, it should be said, introduced many grapes to the lands which will then become Italy, and the influence of Hellenic people in wine making and viticulture of this country is still today evident in the names of many grapes. The grapes of our tasting by contrast of this month are very important representatives of the huge heritage of Italian autochthonous varieties: Garganega and Vermentino. The former variety - Garganega - is the grape which undeniably marked the rebirth of one of the most famous Italian white wines: Soave. Vermentinno is the protagonist of many white wines of Sardinia, however it also plays an important role in Liguria and Tuscany. The presence of these grapes is also found in other regions of Italy - although marginally - whereas Vermentino is also cultivated in France and Corse.

 Garganega is the most important white berried grape of Verona and Vicenza provinces, the main grape of Soave and Gambellara wines. In particular, in Soave territory, Garganega is responsible of the rebirth of white wines of this area, giving them a better personality, elegance and finesse. The origins of Garganega are not clear, however it is believed its presence in this land is evidently dated back to remote times, as well as believing it was introduced to this territory by Etruscans. Pietro de' Crescenzi, the famous writer and agronomist of the 1200s, mentioned Garganega in his book and, even at those times, this grape was praised for the production of sweet wines. On this regard, it is believed Garganega was used by Rhaetian people for the making of their sweet wines, also mentioned by Pliny the Elder, whom, among the many things, supported the idea Rhaetian people were of Etruscan origins.

 Garganega is still today one of the most prestigious grapes and having a good versatility, protagonist of white and sweet wines of remarkable elegance. The famous white berried grape of Veneto is the main variety of Soave and Recioto di Soave, and today it is the main grape used for these wines, most of the times it is the only one. With time, Garganega has in fact replaced the other varieties provided for the production of these wines, in particular Trebbiano di Soave, and today most producers tends to use it alone. The same can be said for Gambellara wines, in which Garganega is used alone both for dry and sweet wines of the territory. This grape is mainly found in Veneto, however it is also marginally found in other regions of Italy, such as Umbria and Lombardy. The best expression of Garganega is however found in the provinces of Verona and Vicenza, both for white wines and sweet wines produced with dried grapes.

 The origins of Vermentino seem to be clearer. The origin of this great white variety is to be found in Spain, more likely in Portugal, it was then introduced to the lands of France, therefore to the Italian territory. Vermentino is particularly common in Sardinia, introduced here from the neighboring Corse, and it is today the most common white berried grape of the island. From Sardinia Vermentino has been then spread to Liguria and therefore Tuscany, regions in which this white grape is still today widely common. Moreover, it is believed some autochthonous varieties, such as Pigato, Rollo and Favorita, are indeed similar to Vermentino and, therefore, it is the same grape. The same consideration is true for the so called Vermentino di Gallura and Vermentino di Alghero, both cultivated in Sardinia and both representing the same variety.

The color of Vermentino. The greenish yellow nuance is clearly evident.

 Vermentino expresses different characters in the three lands in which it is mainly found: Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany. In Sardinia Vermentino generally makes wines of good body and complexity, whereas in Liguria gives wines of more refined elegance of aromas and a weaker body. In Tuscany Vermentino seems to express quite different characters, while keeping both elegance of aromas and good body. Sardinia is today considered the main land of Vermentino and wines produced with this grape are recognized as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata in the whole territory of the island. The most prestigious expression certainly is Vermentino di Gallura - recognized as DOCG (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita) - having a pretty strong personality while expressing good elegance. Vermentino is however a versatile grape, in particular in Sardinia where it is used for the production of sparkling and dry wines, as well as sweet wines from dried grapes.

 The wines of our tasting by contrast will be chosen from the areas of Soave, in Veneto, and Gallura, in Sardinia. Specifically, as for Garganega, we will choose a Soave Superiore, whereas for the other variety our choice will be about a Vermentino di Gallura. In both cases, we should consider the respective production disciplinary provides for the use of different varieties of the territory, it is therefore indispensable our wines will be made with 100% of the respective grapes. This is particularly important for Soave Superiore, as production disciplinary provides for a minimum Garganega of 70%. We will choose wines belonging to the latest vintage as we need young wines capable of expressing the character of the respective grapes. Production technique is important as well, we therefore make sure both wines are produced in steel tanks. The samples of our tasting will be served at the temperature of 10 °C (50 °F) and poured in tasting glasses.

 Let's pour both wines in glasses and start the evaluation of appearance from Vermentino di Gallura. Let's tilt the glass over a white surface - for this purpose is enough a simple sheet of paper - and observe the wine at the base of the glass. It will be observed an intense and brilliant straw yellow color and a very high transparency, something easily predictable. We will not in fact have any problem in recognizing the details of an object put between the glass and the white surface. Nuances of color, observed at the edge of the wine towards the opening of the glass, shows a greenish yellow hue. Let's now observe the appearance of Garganega expressed by Soave Superiore wine. At the base of the glass will be observed an intense straw yellow color, sometimes tending to golden yellow, with a transparency - also in this case - very high. Nuances of Garganega confirm its color, showing a straw yellow hue tending to golden yellow.

 Aromatic profiles of Garganega and Vermentino have some common characteristics as well as substantial differences, they however give the nose of the taster a character of elegant personality. Both varieties are mainly characterized by their aromas of white pulp fruits, in particular apple and pear. The aromatic profile of Vermentino, in general terms, expresses qualities directly recalling citrus fruits - in particular lemon - with a character, like to say, crisper than Garganega. The white berried grape of Veneto is characterized, among the other things, by a typical aroma of almond, a quality which can be perceived both in its dry and in sweet wines made from dried grapes. In both varieties are found sensations recalling tropical fruits, in particular pineapple, and aromas recalling flowers mainly express hawthorn and broom.

 Let's now pass to aroma evaluation of the two grapes of our tasting by contrast. We will start from Vermentino di Gallura, by holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling. Let's do our first smell in order to evaluate opening aromas. From the glass will be perceived aromas of apple, pear and hawthorn, intense and well perceptible. Let's now swirl the glass - in order to favor the development of the other aromas - and do a second smell. From the glass will be perceived the characteristic aroma of lemon to which follows broom, plum, peach, pineapple and a hint of almond. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Garganega's aromas expressed by Soave Superiore. The opening of this wine gives the nose of the taster aromas of apple, broom and pear, as well as the characteristic almond aroma. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile is completed by hawthorn, peach, plum, pineapple and apricot. In Garganega can also be sometimes perceived the aroma of honey.

 Gustatory qualities of Vermentino and Garganega are characterized by pretty evident differences, in particular structure. Both varieties make wines with a pretty high alcohol by volume - it is not rare to have wines having 13% of alcohol - a characteristic clearly affecting the gustatory profile. In the attack of Vermentino di Gallura can be appreciated an evident crispness, given by acidity, a quality making this wine very agreeable. It will be noticed the contribution of alcohol in the balance of wines, as well as the good correspondence to the nose, in particular apple, pear and pineapple. Let's now take a sip of Soave Superiore. The attack of Garganega is characterized by a rounder crispness than Vermentino and, in general terms, a more robust structure. Also in this wine alcohol plays an evident role in the balance, something also contributing to increase roundness, clearly stronger than Vermentino. Correspondence to the nose is very good and we can perceive apple, pear and peach.

 Let's finish our tasting by contrast with the evaluation of final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after having been swallowed. Vermentino and Garganega make wines of interesting characteristics leaving in the mouth sensation of very good quality. The finish of Vermentino di Gallura has good persistence and in the mouth can be perceived - after having swallowed the wine - pleasing and clean flavors of apple, pear, pineapple and lemon. Final sensations left in the mouth by Soave Superiore's Garganega are interesting as well. The persistence of this wine is very good and in the mouth can be perceived flavors of apple, pear, plum and the characteristic bitter hint of almond. As opposed to Vermentino, in Garganega can be perceived the sensation of a more robust structure while crispness given by acidity seems to be lower than Vermentino. Both grapes can certainly be considered excellent, capable of making great white wines, of remarkable personality and quality.

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