Here we go. We are at the hottest time of the year that, at least in Italy, has
been preceded by a spring at times very cold and then suddenly reached quite
high temperatures. This summer – at least from the premises – is rather
torrid, the heat is already quite high, making the days very sultry. We wine
lovers, in any case and regardless of the season or temperature, don't let
ourselves be discouraged and, certainly, we don't give up a good glass. With
the heat, however, the desire of uncorking a bottle of red – especially a
robust and full bodied one – is not that tempting. It must however be said, in
case the right occasion should arise, we do not certainly give up to even
appreciate a good red wine, despite the summer and the heat. In case we want to
appreciate a bottle of wine, of course – in this season – we usually prefer
wines that can be served at cool temperatures, capable of promising some relief
from summer heat.
The possibilities of finding the right refreshment from wine against summer
heat, in fact, are many, however remembering that moderation too is the right
way to appreciate wine, regardless of the season. Too obvious to suggest white
and sparkling wines, whether they are produced with the classic or Charmat
methods. During the summer, however, on my favorite wine list there are also
rosé wines, as their quality – at last – has increased and clearly improved
in the last ten years. The choice in favor of rosé wines is also dictated by
another habit of my summer table, that is the frequent presence of vegetables
and fish. These two dishes, in fact, pair well to rosé wines, not least with
pizza, which is – in any case – a preparation that accompanies me throughout
the year, not only in summer. Talking about pizza, it should be needed a much
more in-depth article, as it is true art that is too often mistreated and
roughly interpreted, rendered in indecorous and ignoble ways.
Moreover, pizza is an extremely fascinating subject for me, as I like to make
it and to enjoy it all year round. I admit I am quite demanding and I have
hardly found pizzerias capable of fully satisfying my fussiness, both for the
lack of care and quality of the dough and flour, and for the disputable
condiments, too often made with materials of dubious quality, used or processed
in questionable way. I am also aware of being, so to speak, unconventional when
I decide to appreciate pizza. For me, the best pairing to this complex as well
as tasty pearl of Italian cuisine, is wine, not least, sparkling wine. I can
imagine, perhaps, the dissent of many of you who are reading these words,
disagreeing with this habit of mine, preferring – maybe – the most
classic and common combination with beer or others drinks. I appreciate
beer – not all, to tell the truth, because even in that sense I am very
demanding – but with pizza I undoubtedly prefer to pair it to wine.
In the glasses accompanying my summer, in any case, I also pour sparkling
wines, preferably classic method without forgetting about those produced with
the Charmat or Martinotti method, provided they are of good quality. It is not,
however, a choice dictated by the fact these wines can be served at decidedly
low temperatures and therefore promising a relief from the summer heat. After
all, I have always thought a vintage classic method served at a temperature
lower than 10 °C means, at least for me, to destroy the beauty of its aromas as
well as making it anonymous to the taste. This is particularly true, in
my opinion, for rosé classic method sparkling wines – my great passion – and
that only a few, if not very few, are capable of satisfying my fussiness. Let
me be clear on this, I have no prejudice against rosé wine in general, on the
contrary, for what concerns me, it is a wine I really appreciate. I must
however say a rosé wine, sparkling or not, must convince me from the beginning
and from the color which should be a gentle female pink, therefore I
don't appreciate very much those that excessively tend to red tones. A rosé
must be a rosé, therefore not a wine dressed in red.
Red wines. Yes, red wines. Up to this point it would seem in summer I tend not
to favor this style of wine. If it is true we tend more to associate red wines
to the colder seasons, indeed in this category we can find a rich selection
capable of being enjoyed with pleasure in hot summer days. In particular, those
wines which are not excessively astringent and can be served at cooler
temperatures, possibly vinified in steel tabks. The choice, in this sense, is
decidedly vast and such to satisfy my summer desire for red wine, especially at
the table, even with the rich fish cuisine, from grilled and roasted ones, to
tasty soups. I must admit that, in summer, the red wine I drink the most is dry
Lambrusco. Not only for the fact it can be served at a decidedly summer
temperature and for the modest alcohol volume, but also for its joyful
expression of bubbles that smell of red and black fruits. If I have to choose a
red wine for the summer, my choice often goes in favor of dry Lambrusco,
provided I am successful in finding one of good quality, a task not always
simple to achieve.
Another wine I appreciate on hot summer days is Moscato d'Asti, including the
sparkling style, or Brachetto d'Acqui, because of its low alcohol content and
the fact it can be appreciated at low temperatures while however expressing the
richness of its aromas. What about fortified wines? I like drinking them too in
summer, in particular Dry Jerez Fino and Marsala Vergine. In both cases, I find
them also suitable for light, tasty yet joyous meals, in the style suggested by
the richness of the Spanish tapas. In any case – besides these two
fortified wines – in the summer I tend to prefer wines with a lower alcohol
content, however, should the opportunity arise, I do not renounce a glass of
Sagrantino or Barolo. They are clearly not the wines I think the most in
summer, but I certainly don't exclude them. By considering in summer the intake
of alcohol does not exactly help to fight the torrid temperatures, the rule
– which should always be followed – a little but of good quality, is more
easily respected. Good summer to all our readers, with a fine glass in order to
make the summer heat more bearable and joyful. Finally – hoping to find you
all here in September – like I am always used to end the episodes of our
podcast, my wish to you all to have a good wine, in moderation, provided
it is always a quality wine. Enjoy your summer!
Antonello Biancalana
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