There is no peace in the vineyards of Bordeaux. The vintners of the famous French
wine land – among the most iconic in the world – are decidedly concerned and
are making no secret of it. The French wine industry, to tell the truth, also
the one of other countries, is going through a not exactly flourishing period,
with significant drops in consumption and sales such as to arouse quite a concern
among the producers of the country. Figures are saying the sales and export of
French wines, especially those of Bordeaux, are registering a significant decline
and not only as regards exports, but also for domestic consumption. The French
– this is what the latest estimates seem to suggest – are strongly decreasing
the per capita consumption of wine – in particular, the red one – with effects
which seem to be significant for the entire wine industry. At the same time, the
interest of the French for beer is growing, with consumption clearly increasing
to the detriment of wine.
Over the last few decades, the consumption of red wine in France has undergone a
drastic drop, going from 120 liters per year in the 1940s to around 40 today.
Estimates suggest a further decline for the next few years, forecasting an
annual per capita consumption of red wine of just 25 liters. This time it is not
because of the infamous effects of the recent Covid-19 pandemic, indeed to the
new fads and social trends which favor a greater consumption of white and rosé
wines. A decline that has brought its greatest effect, of course, in the
territories historically and traditionally committed to the cultivation of red
berried varieties, such as Bordeaux, of course. Estimates indicate a drop in the
consumption of red wines of -32%, with a consequent economic loss of -6.2% due
to lower sales. By way of comparison, the drop in sales volume that is affecting
the sparkling wine production in France is just -0.5%. A decidedly
significant difference.
A loss which is having a considerable economic impact on the profits of Bordeaux
wineries, so much so that it is starting a real crisis in the sector. For this
reason, at the beginning of the year, the vintners of Bordeaux asked for the
intervention of the French government in order to get an economic compensation
deriving from the loss and which, it seems, are going to happen for the imminent
future as well. Furthermore, the vintners have requested to uproot part of the
vineyards, an unfortunate and disgraceful operation which not only deprives the
environment of the beauty of its vineyards, but also the inevitable loss of
profits. After all, if the wine from those vineyards cannot be sold, the only
thing left to do is, so to speak, act accordingly and limit future losses. It is
a known fact that maintaining and cultivating a vineyard, harvesting its grapes
and transforming them into wine has a cost that is not exactly trivial in the
budget of any winery. The estimates and requests suggest a frightening
quota of 15,000 hectares of excess vineyards, therefore to be uprooted, equal to
about 10% of the total area destined for the cultivation of vineyards in the
whole territory of Bordeaux.
Unfortunately, this is not the only problem afflicting the Bordeaux wine
industry. If the uprooting of vineyards limits the future production, there is
still the problem of the destination or use of the red wine currently produced
and which will probably remain unsold. Due to this specific condition, the French
government has approved the distillation of the excess quotas for 2023,
foreseeing a cost of approximately 160 million euros for the operation. In this
regard, it should be noted France had already adopted a similar measure in recent
times and, precisely, in 2020. On that occasion, because of the drastic drop in
consumption resulting from the effect of the Covid-19 pandemic, the French
government had approved the distillation of excess wine. Unfortunately, the
torments of the Bordeaux vintners do not end there. Indeed, the vineyards of
the iconic French wine-growing area are suffering the effects of flavescence
dorée, a disease endemic in Europe and with a high spreading capacity.
The French government, accepting the requests of the Bordeaux winegrowers – also
to limit the harmful effects of flavescence dorée – has approved the uprooting
of 9,500 hectares of vineyards and allocated 57 million euros for compensation,
destined to the winegrowers who will join the campaign. The possibility of
uprooting is granted – upon request – to the owners and managers of vineyards
in the Gironde area, recognizing them a compensation of € 6,000 for each
hectare. Those who adhere to the possibility of uprooting vineyards need to prove
that the vines (therefore, not the vineyard) have been in production in the last
5 years and until 2022. Furthermore, it will be necessary to declare the purpose
of the uprooting and the future destination of the area where the vineyard is
located. Vintners seems to be pushing for a quick and decisive procedure, as they
are convinced that the faster it will be done, the better it will be for
everyone. The idea of uprooting is certainly dramatic and painful, however it is
the premise for limiting future losses, in particular by considering the
progressive decline in the consumption of red wine and the possible spreading of
flavescence dorée.
As for the drop in domestic consumption and related to red wines, according to a
survey carried out in 2022, the causes would be to be found in the new social
trends and habits of the French, a condition that could also extend to the rest
of Europe. According to the results of this survey, the drop in the consumption
of red wines is due to the concomitant reduction in the consumption of red meat,
food for which – notoriously – red wine is preferably paired. Other causes
would be to be found in the current preferences of consumers in preferring wines
with a lower alcohol volume and, more specifically, wines suitable for aperitifs,
such as whites and sparkling wines, which generally have a lower alcohol volume.
According to the same survey, another factor which has determined the drop in the
consumption of red wines is linked to the decreasing tendency of families to
consume meals together in addition to the growing number of single-parent
families, in which the only adult chooses not to uncork a bottle of wine
– especially, red and robust – to accompany the meal.
As for the Bordeaux vineyard uprooting campaign, the operation should begin next
October and will literally see almost 10% of the vineyards in the area
disappear. In this regard, it must be said the majority of these vineyards belong
to small and medium-sized wineries, that is the category that has most suffered
the severe consequences of the drop in consumption and exports. In fact, to face
these losses, small producers were forced to sell off their wine at very low
prices, generating a huge loss. A condition that – it must be said – does not
concern the big and famous Châteaus of Bordeaux, for which the crisis has
not had significant effects, so much so that many of them continue to expand
their lands and buy new vineyards. A two-faced crisis, therefore, in which – as
always and everywhere it happens – it is the smallest who suffer the worst
consequences, with the real risk of disappearing, overwhelmed by higher costs and
fewer market opportunities. Maybe it is simply the effect of a passing fad
– like the so many we have witnessed in recent decades – with the fluctuating
preferences of consumers who, cyclically, prefer a certain style of wine while
penalizing the others. Fads have an easy hold on the community: today red wines
– also from Bordeaux – have few reasons to smile, while whites, rosés and
sparkling wines have good reasons to celebrate. At least until the glasses will
return, surely and sooner or later, to turn red again.
Antonello Biancalana
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