Sauvignon Blanc has always been one of my favorite grapes, of course and above all, the wines that are produced with this extraordinary variety. I could call it love at first sight or love at first glass, still remembering the moment in which my nose first met Sauvignon Blanc. It was a Sancerre – the very famous AOC of the Loire Valley, in France – an encounter that took place about thirty years ago. It was a shocking experience and one that I still remember perfectly, struck by that encounter, made of olfactory qualities unknown to me at the time, not least, the extreme elegance and class of Sauvignon Blanc, a blend mainly dominated by methoxypyrazines. That Sancerre was so different from any other wine I had tasted up to that moment, an explosion of intense fruit aromas, even tropical ones, to which was added, at least for me and at that time, a new dimension of complexity. Besides the novelty, I was struck by that combination of intense and frank aromas, convinced, with absolute certainty, that in my glass I had a magic of extraordinary elegance.

 This novelty was mainly expressed by a number of aromas so far away from the usual perceptions of flowers, fruits and tertiary qualities conferred by time and wood. These were aromas that, on that occasion, were difficult to understand and that led to a world that I would never have thought of finding in a wine. Or rather, not in that way. I had already read and listened to the opinions and comments of many wine tasters and writers of those times, who highlighted the herbaceous and wild character of white wines produced with Sauvignon Blanc, especially those in its primary reference territory, that is, the Loire Valley in France and, in particular, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, the latter famous for their “flint” aroma, with an almost “smoky” character, the same that is produced by striking a stone of this type. I was really curious and I felt that, in my journey as an “apprentice taster” as I was at the time, tasting these wines would represent a fundamental formative experience.

 At my first attempt at research, I managed to find a bottle of Sancerre, while for the Poilly-Fumé I had to wait a few more months. That coveted bottle, as already mentioned, was a sensational discovery: I was finally able to associate a real “smell” to the many words I had read about the legendary olfactory qualities of Sauvignon Blanc. Green bell pepper, elderflower, tomato leaf, flint and, above all, the most controversial and definitely most disconcerting smell of all: cat urine. The characteristic smell that, to be a little more elegant, is also often referred to as the smell of boxwood, that is, the bush used to create hedges. In short, scents that were certainly not common and distant – so to speak – from the comforting world of flowers and fruits that could be perceived in the majority of wines. It was a highly formative experience that also had the effect of increasing my curiosity about Sauvignon Blanc, both the grape and its wines. It had become a sort of obsession and just reading Sauvignon Blanc in a label was enough to convince me to buy the bottle.

 All those bottles, however, immediately made me understand the enormous difference between the French production of the Loire Valley – in the meantime I had also managed to find Pouilly-Fumé and other wines of that appéllation – and the rest of the world. With one exception: the Sauvignon Blanc produced in Marlborough, the famous wine-growing area in New Zealand. Not that the other Sauvignon Blancs of that time were bad, they were certainly very different and, so to speak, with less personality, despite the fact that the majority of Sauvignon Blanc producers in the world attempted, more or less successfully, to replicate the Loire Valley style. The wines produced with this grape at that time were definitely characterized by a sensorial personality, especially in their olfactory profile, dominated by a wild, herbaceous and vegetal expression, typical of Sauvignon Blanc. These were, without a shadow of a doubt, wines that knew no middle ground: you either loved them or you hated them. I was among those who appreciated them and still am today.

 The more the years pass by, the more I am convinced that the first category – the one represented by those who love Sauvignon Blanc when it is pure and wild, to which I belong – is progressively attracting less interest in favor of interpretations characterized by the exuberant expression of fruit, certainly easier to understand and appreciate. Let's be clear, these are certainly excellent wines and interpretations, of enormous pleasure, especially when made with rigor and quality viticultural and enological criteria. In all fairness, it must be said that Sauvignon Blanc, in order to express its wildly complex character, requires particular climatic and environmental conditions, in addition to the careful determination of the harvest period. However, when it is found in vineyards cultivated in warm areas exposed to the sun, Sauvignon Blanc significantly loses, often completely, its herbaceous and complex character, leaving space for the triumph of fruits, especially tropical ones, to the point of even becoming an ordinary banal wine.

 However, this is not a “simple” climatic, environmental, viticultural and enological matter, since it is mainly a market issue. It is certainly easier to sell a Sauvignon Blanc that offers incredible fruit and flower aromas to the nose, perhaps even a slight hint of the more delicate typical qualities, such as elderflower and nettle, rather than a Sauvignon Blanc that is markedly herbaceous and complex. After all, this is something that I often see in people's appreciation when they find in the glass intense aromas of gooseberry, passion fruit, pineapple, peach and grapefruit, to which is added the amazement for the scent of elderflower and nettle. While I see less and less often the amazement for a Sauvignon Blanc when the nose is hit by scents of green bell pepper, tomato leaf, asparagus in addition to the famous, and feared, smell of boxwood – for friends, cat pee – as well as the sparkling, mineral whip of freshly struck flint.

 It is rare, these days, to find Sauvignon Blancs capable of expressing, with pride and without fear, this complex, herbaceous and vegetal character, well supported by the explosive fruity personality which is typical of this variety. It is not enough to have the right climate and favorable environmental conditions, it also takes courage. Such courageous producers, in fact, are difficult to find today, although there are still many who resist in the Loire Valley and in Marlborough, New Zealand. In both cases, in fact, it is a distinctive character that lovers of wines from these territories expect to find in their glass. In various ways, and until a few decades ago, they were also frequent in Sauvignon Blancs from other territories, including Italy, since it was more of an emulation fad. Over time it has diminished and today, as already mentioned, the enological interpretation that tends to favor the fruity character is preferred, certainly easier to sell, not least, also to make. And I, who continue to appreciate those Sauvignon Blancs that are so herbaceous, vegetal and mineral, when I happen to have it in my glass, in addition to greeting it with a smile of satisfaction, I am equally happy for the fact that there are still those who make wines with this grape with the courage to be Sauvignon Blanc.

 Liguria and Sicily, from an enological point of view, do not have much in common. Starting from the grape varieties that are grown in their respective vineyards and, even more clearly, the wines that distinguish the two regions. This can be easily seen by simply tasting the wines – both white and red – that are produced in Liguria and Sicily. Although the vineyards of both regions are strongly influenced by the effects of their proximity to the sea, it is the climatic and meteorological conditions that mark the most substantial differences. In addition to the grape varieties, of course. Even the respective viticultural and enological histories and traditions are decidedly different, in both cases the result of the influences of the cultures that have followed one another in both regions throughout their history. This, not least, has determined the respective ampelographies of Liguria and Sicily, and therefore also the viticultural and enological styles.

 Last but not least, of course, are the inland conditions, factors that inevitably influence the characteristics of the vineyards, grapes and, of course, the wines. In both regions there are interesting native varieties – both white and red – while in Liguria there are a decidedly smaller quantity of non-native grapes – the so-called “international” ones – compared to the native varieties. In this month's tasting by contrast we will examine two white grapes typical of these two regions and used for the production of many Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wines (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC). For Liguria, we will examine Colli di Luni Vermentino, while for Sicily, a wine produced with the local variety Grillo, definitely among the best known and most appreciated ones in the region. These are two very different varieties, with evident and substantial differences that are clearly perceived in their wines.

 The Colli di Luni denomination, although it is mainly associated with Liguria, is – as a matter of fact – an inter-regional denomination that also includes territories of Tuscany. Specifically, the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Colli di Luni includes both territories of La Spezia – on the Ligurian side – and those of Massa and Carrara in Tuscany. The production disciplinary include both white and red wines, however it is the former that distinguish the enology of the denomination, in particular those produced with Vermentino grape. The enological production of this territory boasts a long history, so much so that it was cited and appreciated by Pliny the Elder, who wrote that “the wine of Luni has the palm among those of Etruria”. The famous writer and naturalist does not specify whether it was a white or red wine, however there are reliable information that Vermentino – the grape that we will examine in our tasting – has been cultivated in these lands for many centuries.

 The presence of Vermentino in the Colli di Luni is attested by a long history, also favored by its fruitful adaptation in these lands, so much so that, starting from the eighteenth century, it became the primary variety of the territory. In this regard, it should be noted that Vermentino is not a native variety of the Colli di Luni area and, although its origin is still uncertain today, it is considered native to the north-east of Spain and, from here, passing through the French Provence, then from Corsica, it reached Sardinia, then Liguria and Tuscany. The wines produced with Vermentino grapes in this territory are characterized by their marked elegance and a moderate body, especially when compared with those produced in Sardinia. In accordance with the production disciplinary, Colli di Luni Vermentino is produced with at least 90% of the homonymous grape and any remaining quota made up of white grapes permitted in Liguria and Tuscany. In this regard, it should be noted that the majority of the production of this wine is exclusively made with Vermentino and often vinified in inert containers, in order to enhance and preserve the finesse and elegance that is typical of this denomination.

 Since 2011, the entire territory of Sicily has been recognized as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC). The related production disciplinary provides for the definition of many styles, which can be produced with practically any variety present on the island, whether native or international. Furthermore, wines produced with different varieties are permitted, as well as single-varietal wines with the indication of the grape on the label. In this latter specific case, as happens for the majority of Italian denominations, the variety indicated on the label must be used for at least 85% and any remaining quota must be made up of similar varieties permitted in Sicily. Moreover, wines with a mention of two varieties on the label and belonging to the same category are also allowed for production. The winemaking methods, in accordance with the production disciplinary, are decidedly broad, leaving considerable production freedom in terms of the choice of containers used for fermentation and aging, as well as grapes.

 This month's tasting by contrast will examine a wine of this denomination produced with the Grillo grape, certainly among the most appreciated and identifying white grape varieties of the region. Grillo is a grape with a relatively recent history, since it is a cross between two varieties, also typical of Sicily. It was in fact created in 1874 by Baron Antonio Mendola, crossing Catarratto with Moscato d'Alessandria, locally known as Zibibbo. The intent was to create a grape to be used for the production of Marsala, in order to give a more intense aroma to the wine. In this regard, recent research would seem to deny this origin, although it is still the most accredited one. Initially used for the production of the famous Marsala – still considered the queen grape for the quality production of this wine – in Sicily it is also used for table wines, both vinified alone and blended with other varieties. Even in these cases, Grillo is capable of expressing finesse and elegance, so much so that it is today considered one of the most representative white grape varieties of Sicily.

The color of Sicilia Grillo

 The bottles that we will pour into the glasses of our tasting by contrast do not present particular difficulties in finding. Colli di Luni Vermentino and Sicilia Grillo – especially this second wine – are easily found in any well-stocked wine shop, not least, also in large-scale retail chains. In consideration of the respective production disciplinary and, in general, in the majority of Italian wines with Denominazione d'Origine Controllata, which allow the presence of complementary grapes in the composition, we will make sure our wines are exclusively produced with the varieties of our interest. In any case, this is the production condition generally adopted by wineries – that is, the use of only the variety indicated on the label – however, we will check this aspect before purchasing. As regards aging, for both bottles we will choose wines fermented and aged in inert containers, preferably steel tanks. Finally, we will choose wines belonging to the most recent vintage and pour them into the respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 We pour Colli di Luni Vermentino and Sicilia Grillo into their respective glasses and begin the sensorial evaluation of the two wines. As usual, we will begin by examining the appearance, that is, how the wines present themselves to the eye, proceeding with the evaluation of Colli di Luni Vermentino. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is sufficient – and observe the base. We can see an intense and bright greenish yellow color, often tending to straw yellow, with a high transparency. Let's now observe the wine towards the opening of the glass, where the thickness becomes thin, in order to evaluate the nuance. The color we observe confirms the base hue, that is, greenish yellow. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the appearance of Sicilia Grillo, therefore tilting its glass over the white surface. Here we observe an intense and bright straw yellow color, generally darker than Vermentino, also in this case with a high transparency. The nuance of the Sicilian wine confirms its basic color, therefore straw yellow.

 The aromas that distinguish the wines produced with Vermentino and Grillo are characterized by substantial differences, although it is possible to perceive olfactory qualities common to both varieties. The wines produced with Vermentino – therefore also those of the Colli di Luni denomination – are recognizable to the nose for the aromas of apple, pear, plum and peach as well as a pleasing note recalling almond. Among the main aromas attributable to the world of flowers, the prevalent sensations that are perceived to the nose in the wines produced with Vermentino are hawthorn and broom. In these wines we can also perceive aromas of exotic fruit, especially pineapple, and hints of citrus fruits. The wines produced with Grillo, among the most significant white grape varieties of Sicily, are recognizable to the nose for the aromas of apple, pear and citrus fruits, while among the aromas expressing the world of flowers, broom and hawthorn are the main ones. In addition, it can also often be possible to perceive scents of aromatic herbs, such as thyme and rosemary, as well as peach, apricot, pineapple and almond.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Colli di Luni Vermentino and Sicilia Grillo, starting – as in the previous phase – with the Ligurian wine. We keep the glass in a vertical position and, without swirling it, we proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening, that is, the primary and identifying olfactory sensations of the wine. From the glass we perceive the aromas of apple, pear and peach followed by the floral sensations in which we recognize hawthorn and broom. Let's now swirl the glass, an operation that favors the development of the olfactory qualities of the wine, and proceed with the second smell. The olfactory profile of Colli di Luni Vermentino is completed with plum, pineapple, lemon and grapefruit in addition to the characteristic almond scent. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Sicilia Grillo and, by keeping the glass vertical, we proceed with the evaluation of its opening. On the nose, we can perceive aromas of apple, pear, apricot and an intense sensation recalling citrus fruits, followed by floral notes of broom and hawthorn. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of Sicilia Grillo is completed with pineapple, peach, plum, thyme, rosemary and a light sensation recalling almond.

 Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of our two wines, starting with the evaluation of the attack, that is, the examination of the primary qualities that are perceived in the mouth at the first sip. Let's start, just like in the previous phases, with the Colli di Luni Vermentino. In the mouth, we perceive the clear sensation of crispness given by acidity, a quality that finds perfect balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol. The structure of the wine is moderate, with a character that develops mainly in finesse and elegance. We also perceive the flavors of apple, pear and peach in addition to the pleasing bitter sensation recalling almond. Let's now take a sip of Sicilia Grillo and proceed with the evaluation of its attack. In the mouth, we perceive the pleasing crispness given by acidity, immediately well balanced by both the effect of the alcohol and the sensation of roundness, decidedly more intense than Vermentino. The structure is also fuller than that of Colli di Luni Vermentino. In the mouth we perceive the flavors of apple, pear and apricot, as well as peach, pineapple and a pleasing sensation of almond, in this case less intense than Vermentino.

 Let's now move on to the evaluation of the final sensations that the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence, that is, the amount of time during which the primary gustatory sensations continue to be clearly perceived in the mouth. The finish of Colli di Luni Vermentino is persistent, leaving a pleasing sensation of crispness and overall finesse in the mouth, a wine of marked agreeableness that certainly invites another sip. In the mouth, clean and intense flavors of apple, pear and peach are perceived in addition to the pleasing bitter sensation in which we recognize the almond. The finish of Sicilia Grillo is persistent and in the mouth, the flavors of apple, pear, apricot and pineapple continue to be clearly perceived, as well as a pleasing hint of almond, also in this case less intense than Vermentino. The sensation of structure – even in the final phase – is more intense in Grillo than in Vermentino, while maintaining a pleasing elegance and finesse. Before concluding our tasting, we place the glasses close together and proceed with the last smell, first the Colli di Luni Vermentino and then the Sicilia Grillo: the differences between the two wines are still clear and evident.

 In this section are published news and information about events concerning the world of wine and food. Whoever is interested in publishing this kind of information can send us a mail to our address.