What times for wine. In recent years, by following the many events, it does not seem to live in peace, in any area, including the commercial and market ones. It is a continuous succession of events and news, very often contradictory, which certainly makes it difficult to determine, not only the future – including the near future – but also the present. In recent times, moreover, the news seems to focus particularly on the trend of consumption, relative both to countries and to age and social groups. The impression, given the contradiction of the news and facts, is that the world of wine is going through a period of profound uncertainty, especially commercial, with news and research that seem to be divulged with the aim of mildly reassuring the sector. If we also add the deep uncertainty caused by the tensions in the markets following the introduction of tariffs by the United States of America – although they are, at the moment, paused – the present and future condition of wine still seems hazy.

 Unfortunately, this is yet another factor of uncertainty that has characterized the condition of wine in recent years, from production to consumption. Including the many studies conducted on consumer habits and which, lately, have been carried out with increasing frequency. It is not my intention to criticize the seriousness, reliability and method with which these studies are conducted – certainly reliable and consistent with the reference group on which the results are based – however it is not exactly easy to get a concrete idea. Lately, it seems these research are particularly focusing on which groups of people, based on social, generational and age criteria, have the merit of supporting wine consumption. In recent times there has been a confused alternation on whom, based on age, were the main consumers of wine, giving the winner's trophy to the so-called young people, shortly after outclassed by the more mature ones, then to the middle group, and then back to the young people.

 A recent survey conducted by the UIV-Vinitaly Observatory, in fact, reveals the highest consumption bracket in the under-44 age group, contradicting – as a matter of fact – other recent surveys, which instead place the “mature” generations among the primary consumers and supporters of the wine market. The new survey – apparently – contradicts what, until a few months ago, seemed to be a consolidated habit, that is, that the “mature” generations were the ones who spent the most on wine. This does not seem to be the case anymore. The population under the age of 44 is the one that contributes the most to the balance of the wine market, not only in Italy, but also in the United States of America. Moreover, it emerges that consumers belonging to the group under 44 years of age buy expensive, famous and well-renowned wines mainly for a matter of prestige, therefore – apparently – without any interest in the specific wine, probably not even in the producer itself.

 These wines are therefore poured into glasses mainly for the supposed social prestige that comes from flaunting the possibility of being able to afford expensive wines. As far as I'm concerned, I don't think this is good news, at least if I consider it solely from the perspective of the appreciation of wine as such. Instead, without offending anyone, to me this seems to confirm the general attitude of our times: the frenetic obsession with appearance – first and foremost – as the primary method of self-affirmation in a superficial society that glorifies itself and takes pleasure in superficiality. It also confirms what I have been sadly seeing for some time now in the world of wine, with consumers, in general terms, who are not interested in the quality of the wine and what they really have in the glass, uniquely interested and focused on the label. People drink and, I would add, consider and show off, only the label, very often also the beautiful fairy tale that accompanies it, but not the wine.

 Specifically, the study reveals interesting and comparative data regarding the wine market in Italy and the United States of America. The most relevant data is related to the role of wine at a cultural level and in the context of consumption occasions. Apparently, the association of wine with food – for centuries, inseparable companions of the table – is gradually being lost in favor of consumption essentially linked to factors of fad and appearance. Specifically, for 56% of young people, wine consumption is associated with phenomena of fad, while it is for 28% of consumers of past generations. Furthermore, this type of consumption is more frequent among those born in the 1980s/1990s – with 45% – compared to 29% of those born around 2000s. In any case, these are significant market shares since, in the United States of America, they represent 24% and 35% respectively of the overall value of the wine sector.

 According to the study by the UIV-Vinitaly Observatory, approximately 31% of the total value of wine purchased in the United States of America is related to high-end bottles, preferred in 60% of cases by consumers under 44 years of age. As regards the Italian market, the share drops to 10%, half of which is attributable to young consumers. In both countries, however, half of these buyers declare themselves not tied to specific labels or wineries, a share that drops to a third among consumers over 44 years of age. The study highlights, as mentioned, the change in the social role of wine, which is increasingly moving away from the table, especially among consumers in the United Stated of America, who, in 7 cases out of 10, consume wine with the aim of promoting greater socialization. As regards the distribution of consumption, in Italy consumers under 44 years of age represent 35% of the total, while in the United States of America it reaches 47%.

 As regards the frequency of consumption – both in Italy and in the United States of America – there are no differences based on the age group. 80% of consumers, regardless of generation, consume wine two or three times a month. However, there are differences in quantity, with consumers under 44 years of age having the highest consumption with two or three glasses of wine. The age group that has recorded a drop in consumption is therefore the one over 44 years of age. In the United States of America, the age group that has recorded the highest consumption is the one under 44 years of age. In fact, 31% of them have increased their wine consumption, while 26% have decreased it. As for the older age groups, only 9% have increased their consumption, while 26% have decreased it. The situation is different in Italy. 27% of consumers – regardless of age – have decreased their wine consumption, while those under 44 have seen a 14% increase in consumption, compared to 7% of the older consumer group.

 Finally, the study reveals that almost half of teetotalers belong to the generation over 60 years of age, followed by those of the next generation, representing 23% in the United States of America and 30% in Italy. The percentage of teetotalers is significantly reduced in the younger generations, with 30% in the United States of America and 20% in Italy. As for consumers who, for health, ideological or personal reasons, choose to totally or partially exclude alcohol consumption, as well as consume it occasionally on specific moments in a moderate or conscious way, in the United States of America represent 60% among consumers under 44 years of age, while in Italy they stand at 46%. A very different trend is recorded among consumers of the other age group, with 30% in the United States of America and 25% in Italy.

 Piedmont and Trentino. These are the regions that produce the wines that we will compare in this month's tasting. These are two regions, as is well known, that boast wine production of extraordinary importance, from white wines to reds, from sparkling wines to those produced with dried grapes. In the vast viticultural panorama of both regions, the red grape varieties certainly stand out, important representatives of the wines of both Piedmont and Trentino. This month's tasting by contrast will in fact focus on the study of two important red wines from the respective regions and produced with two significant varieties: Barbera and Teroldego. These are grapes that are decidedly well-known in the winemaking scene and, without fear of contradiction, known to any wine enthusiast, who – certainly – have tasted wines produced with these grapes at least once. In both cases, wines of notable personality are obtained, regardless of the winemaking techniques used for their production.

 This month's tasting by contrast will in fact focus not only on the specific qualities of the grapes and the production areas, but also on the winemaking techniques and the effects that are obtained in these specific cases. The most frequent winemaking practice in the two wines we are examining this month – Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva – in fact involves significant aging times that substantially influence the sensorial profiles of the wines. Although it is not explicitly indicated in the production disciplinary of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva, producers generally choose aging in wooden barrels, a practice which is obligatory for Nizza Riserva. Aging in wood is nevertheless appropriate for these grapes, which bind very well with the effects of this winemaking technique, giving not only wines with more robust structures, but above all with greater organoleptic complexity as well as appreciable and appropriate roundness.

 Nizza is a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita wine (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) from Piedmont, produced exclusively with Barbera in the Nizza Monferrato area, in the province of Asti. Originally part of the Barbera d'Asti denomination, over time Nizza has managed to distinguish itself – also thanks to the work and determination of the producers – to the point of earning, with merit, dignity and recognizability, obtaining, in 2014, the DOCG recognition. It is one of the many and countless interpretations of Barbera, a red grape variety that began, in the Asti area, in the 1970s, what can be defined as one of the greatest winemaking successes in Italy. It should in fact be noted that Barbera was in the past considered a grape capable of producing wines for mass consumption, both for its enormous spreading – today it is present, in addition to Piedmont, its land of origin, also in other regions – and for its productive generosity, ensuring very abundant harvests and, therefore, just as much wine.

 Recent history, however, teaches us – as in the case of Nizza – that, when grown and vinified with high-quality criteria, Barbera is capable of producing wines of enormous elegance and class, always distinguished by its typical acidity, a quality that gives its wines a strong personality and agreeableness. This quality, together with the not excessive content of polyphenolic substances, makes it very suitable for vinification in wooden casks, a practice that “enriches” Barbera with greater structure and astringency, as well as appropriate roundness that balances and harmonizes its strong acidity. This, in fact, is what happens with Nizza Riserva – the wine we will pour in the glass of this tasting – for which, in accordance with its production disciplinary, it is required a minimum aging period of 30 months, 12 of which in wood.

 Teroldego is, without a doubt, one of the main viticultural and enological glories of Trentino. A red grape variety, it is mainly distinguished by the wines produced in what is considered its primary territory, the Piana Rotaliana, in the northern part of the region and on the border with Alto Adige. In accordance with the Italian quality system, Teroldego Rotaliano has been recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) since 1971 and, among the various styles, it is also allowed the “Superiore Riserva”, the style we will pour it in the glass of our tasting. The origins of Teroldego are, in many respects, uncertain, however it is believed to be of ancient origins and probably introduced into Trentino from the Veronese territory of Lake Garda, where it was known as Tirodola, a name derived from tirelle, that is, the supports used for its cultivation. Historical information remains scarce and there are written documents only from 1800 onwards.

 Subsequent studies conducted on the DNA of Teroldego, however, have allowed to establish a relationship with Lagrein – the famous red grape variety of Alto Adige – and Marzemino, widespread in Trentino, as well as detecting affinities with Dureza, in turn a relative of Syrah. A grape with important coloring properties, Teroldego produces wines with good structure, despite not being particularly rich in polyphenolic substances and moderate alcohol content, a quality that generally enhance its pleasing crispness conferred by acidity. These qualities in fact make Teroldego suitable for barrel aging, both to confer greater astringency and structure, and for roundness, therefore balancing the pleasing crispness. In this regard, it is worth noting that the production disciplinary does not suggest the type of container to be used for the aging and, in the case of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva, this must be at least two years. In most cases, however, producers, for the “Superiore Riserva” style, age the wine in wooden casks.

The color of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva

 Before starting this month's tasting by contrast, let's find the two wines that we will pour into our glasses. Both Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva are easily found in any wine shop, since – in their respective territories – there are many wineries that produce these wines. This time, contrary to what is suggested in our tastings, it will not be necessary to check the composition of the wines, since – in accordance with their respective production disciplinary – Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva are respectively produced with just Barbera and Teroldego. We will make sure, however, that both wines belong to the “riserva” style, since their respective disciplinary also allow the production of other styles. As for the vintages, we will choose bottles belonging to the most recent harvests available on the market. Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva are poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (65 °F).

 Let's pour the two wines into their respective glasses and begin this month's tasting by contrast. We will proceed, as usual, with the evaluation of the appearance of the wines, that is, how they appear to the eye in terms of color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Nizza Riserva, so – by tilting the glass over a white surface – we observe the base, in order to determine the color. What we see is an intense ruby red, with a low transparency to the point of not allowing full visibility of the object placed in contrast between the glass and the white surface. Let's now observe the wine towards the opening of the glass – where the thickness is minimal – noting a garnet red hue. Let's now move on to the analysis of the evaluation of the Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva and, always keeping the glass tilted over the white surface, we note a dark ruby red color, with a low transparency and generally lower than the Nizza Riserva. The nuance of Trentino wine, observed towards the opening of the glass, is ruby red, sometimes tending to garnet.

 The olfactory profiles of Barbera and Teroldego – the grapes used respectively for the production of Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva – are decidedly different, although with common perceptions in the floral and fruity aromas. Teroldego is generally recognized on the nose for its intense aromas of red and dark pulp fruits, mainly black cherry, plum and blackberry, very often blueberry and raspberry. Among the floral perceptions, in Teroldego can also be appreciated aromas of violet and cyclamen. Different, in intensity and quality, is the olfactory profile of wines produced with Barbera, which are mainly recognized for the aroma of cherry, followed by plum, blueberry and raspberry, sometimes strawberry, blackberry and pomegranate. Violet is the main floral recognition of Barbera, often followed by cyclamen and, sometimes, rose and geranium. In the specific case of Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva, furthermore, the effects of the aging in wood must be considered, mainly recognizable by the vanilla aroma.

 Let's resume the tasting of our wines and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Nizza Riserva. Keeping the glass in a vertical position and without swirling it, we proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine, that is, the primary and identifying aromas. The nose perceives – intense and clean – the aromas of cherry, plum and blueberry followed by the pleasing scent of violet. Let's now proceed with the swirling of the glass, an operation that favors the development of the remaining aromas, and proceed with the second smell. The profile of Nizza Riserva is completed with raspberry and blackberry, in addition to the evident sequence of tertiary aromas conferred by the wood and in which we mainly recognize vanilla, tobacco and chocolate, as well as a pleasing balsamic hint of menthol. Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the opening of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva, therefore let's proceed with the first smell, keeping the glass in a vertical position. On the nose we perceive intense and clean aromas of black cherry, plum, blackberry and blueberry followed by the scent of violet. After swirling the glass and taking a second smell, the profile of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva is completed with raspberry and rose, followed by the aromas given by the wood, in particular vanilla, tobacco and cocoa, also in this case with a balsamic hint of menthol.

 Let's move on to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines in our tasting, starting – as in the previous phases – with Nizza Riserva. The first characteristic we evaluate is the attack, that is, how the wine is perceived in the mouth at the first sip. Nizza Riserva is immediately recognizable by the primary quality of Barbera and which is expressed with the evident crispness conferred by the acidity. This pleasing sensation, however, finds prompt balance in the effect of the alcohol, as well as the roundness conferred by the aging in wood, a factor also giving Nizza Riserva a pleasing and balanced astringency and good structure. In the mouth, the flavors of cherry, plum, raspberry and blueberry are perceived. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the attack of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva, therefore taking a sip of the Trentino wine. In the mouth can be perceived – compared to Nizza Riserva – a generally less alcoholic sensation, however of pleasing roundness, also in this case supported by appreciable crispness. In the mouth can also be perceived the flavors of black cherry, plum, blueberry and blackberry, in addition to the sensation of good structure.

 We conclude this month's tasting by contrast by proceeding with the evaluation of the final sensations that Nizza Riserva and Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva leave in the mouth after swallowing. One of the factors that we analyze in this phase is the so-called taste-olfactory persistence, an important element in determining the quality of a wine. The finish of Nizza Riserva is persistent, leaving in the mouth the evident perception of crispness conferred by the acidity, well supported by gentle astringency, in addition to the sensation of roundness, together with that of the alcohol. In the mouth we can also continue to perceive flavors of cherry, plum, raspberry and blueberry. The finish of Teroldego Rotaliano Superiore Riserva is also persistent and in the mouth can be perceived flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry, in addition to the pleasing roundness and moderate astringency, also in this case supported by appreciable crispness, however decidedly lower than Nizza Riserva.

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