Do not worry. If, reading the title of this editorial, you were wondering whether you were browsing DiWineTaste and not a sports magazine, I can reassure you right away. We are talking about wine, of course, and the recent news regarding yet another world record won – or rather, won by a landslide – by Italy. These are the first estimates, now more concrete than a month ago, regarding the 2025 harvest and the quantity of wine produced, an estimate that – at this point – can be considered a result effectively achieved. Furthermore, the estimate of the excellent quality of the 2025 harvest is also widely confirmed everywhere in Italy, and this undoubtedly is excellent news. As for quantity, however, there are triumphalistic comments by many – not least, filled with pride – about the fact that Italy, with the 2025 harvest, has earned the top spot on the prestigious podium of the world's leading wine producer, even calling it a record harvest and estimated at 47.4 million hectoliters of wine. This is, in fact, the estimate recently released by Assoenologi (the Italian association of winemakers), Unione Italiana Vini (Italian Wine Union, UIV), and the Institute of Services for the Agricultural Food Market (ISMEA), with the contribution of the competent office of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry (MASAF).

 My thoughts, I believe, are entirely legitimate and, if I may be presumptuous, decidedly serious: in these times, with the current wine market conditions not exactly positive, with consumption clearly declining, what is the point of having achieved a record-breaking harvest? The harvested grapes, evidently, will be transformed into wine, bottled, and then released onto the market. Much more simply, it is wine that, in the natural logic of entrepreneurship and production, it is hoped to be sold. In an ideal and exact world, it would be wonderful if everything could go according to our plans and desires, however, in the real one, with the premises already mentioned, it seems a decidedly complex task and unlikely undertaking. Unfortunately, it does not end there. It is well known, in fact, that significant quantities of wine – of various types and conditions – are currently stocked in Italian wineries, adding to that of the magnificent “record-breaking harvest”.

 According to the report number 8/2025 released by the Italian Central Inspectorate for the Protection of Quality and Fraud Prevention of Agri-food Products (ICQRF), as of July 31, 2025, Italian wineries held 39.8 million hectoliters of wine, 2.3 million hectoliters of must, and 58,747 hectoliters of new wine still in fermentation. The report also notes that, compared to July 31, 2024, there has been an increase in wine stocks of 0.5% and 58.4% for wines still in fermentation, as well as an 8.5% decrease in musts. Compared to June 30, 2025, there has been a decrease in wine stocks of -8.8%, -14.5% for musts, and -8.1% for new wines still in fermentation. The majority is held in the northern regions of the country, mainly in Veneto. For completeness, 56.3% of the total is DOP wines, 25.2% IGP wines, 1.5% varietal wines, and the remaining 17% other types of wine. Finally, 58.6% of IGP wines are made up of just 20 of the 526 total denominations.

 We are talking – very simply – about wine ready or awaiting completion of vinification and destined for sale, to which, evidently, will also be added that of our record-breaking harvest this year. That is, 47.4 million hectoliters, more or less. A quantity – again in accordance with recently released estimates – which marks, in quantitative terms, an 8% increase compared to last year and a 2% increase over the 2024-2025 average. Everyone emphasizes that this is an excellent harvest from a qualitative point of view, others are rejoicing over yet another astonishing world record achieved by Italian winemaking, with some – in truth – instead worrying about what to do with this new wine, which is added to the one currently stocked in wineries. Because, it is worth remembering, if the current margin deriving from the sale of Italian wine is decidedly critical – considered as a whole, to which are added the well-known facts linked to the tariffs imposed by the United States of America – this new condition, evidently, introduces further and worrying critical issues.

 If we compare our extraordinary record with our other historic “competitors”, in particular France, our main rival in the annual race to top the podium, we have done it big this year, outperforming them by a whopping 10 million hectoliters. In recent news, estimates for the 2025 harvest in France predict production of around 37.4 million hectoliters, just ahead of Europe's third-largest producer – Spain – which expects to produce 36.9 million hectoliters. As for France, it must be said that this is not the first year in which a decline in wine production has been recorded. Last year, in fact, there was already a notable decline in wine production. Have the French gone crazy in recent years? In my humble opinion, I would say definitely not. Given the market conditions of recent years, it seems very reasonable to reduce wine production, considering – not least – the sharp decline in consumption that is being recorded worldwide.

 Some might rightly argue that the decline in French production is nonetheless “supported” by the fact that – since ever – in world markets, French bottles have a much higher value than Italian ones. True, and undeniably, this has always been. The French are decreasing their wine production, however, in any case, their profit is supported by the higher market value. It must be said, however, as it famously paraphrased from Vincenzo Monti's tragedy “Aristodemo”, “If Athens weeps, Sparta does not laugh”. France, evidently, faces the same market and the same conditions; maybe it manages – perhaps – to make a better profit thanks to the recognized value of its bottles, but, inevitably, it must face the general decline in consumption and sales. Just like Italy. Now, considering the significant amount of wine currently stocked in Italian wineries, to which must be added that of the 2025 harvest, it is clear that this will worsen an already notoriously critical situation, especially in terms of profit margins, which are already critical.

 As the famous Latin adage reminds us, Cui prodest? (Who benefits?) We are the world's leading producers in terms of quantity, to the great joy of some, a little less so for others. But now, in essence, what do we do with all this wine? How and where do we sell it? To whom? In a scenario of sharply declining consumption and critical market conditions – adding to this what is happening in the United States of America, one of Italy's primary foreign markets – how is it possible to sell all this wine if not literally selling it off? The result, all too easy to predict, is that producers will soon face renewed and inevitable difficulties, perhaps asking for financial compensation for the lost sales. Unless an effective remedy is found with concrete and reasonable measures, in roughly a year's time, wineries will be further “filled” with grapes from the 2026 harvest, and therefore, the resulting wine. And it is also highly unlikely that, in the space of a year, market and consumption conditions will change significantly, enough to see “full glasses” again like they were a few years ago. Perhaps, even in Italy, it is time to seriously reconsider the role and production of our beloved wine (certainly and undoubtedly beloved!), not just in words, but also, and above all, in action?

 Comparing wines by means of sensorial tasting is a useful and virtually endless practice. Useful because, through comparison – even in a decidedly distant and contrasting way – it allows us to understand and highlight their specific characteristics. Virtually endless because, thanks to the enormous number of wines produced in the world, considering the diverse combinations of grapes and territories, the number of tastings by contrast becomes countless. Of course, not all comparisons are useful or profitable, since comparing two stylistically and obviously different wines, just because of their stark differences, does not yield useful information or insights. In other words, comparing a white wine with a red – whatever they may be – simply highlights, and very pointlessly, the obvious and evident differences represented by their respective styles.

 This month's tasting by contrast, like others suggested in the past, features two wines, not only from very different and distant territories, but also produced using distinct winemaking methods. In our glasses, we will be pouring Trentino Nosiola, made with the region's native grape of the same name, and Alcamo Classico Bianco, one of Sicily's most famous and historic wines, a blend of different grape varieties. In any case, these are grapes with quite different viticultural and enological characteristics, qualities that also reflect further differences in relation to their respective production areas. This comparison therefore presents some small challenges inherent in sensorial analysis. In one case, a single-varietal wine produced in a region with a mild climate and typically of high altitude; in the other, a wine produced from a blend of multiple grapes and originating in a region with a decidedly warm climate, in some cases also quite influenced by maritime conditions.

 If there is one white grape variety that most characterizes Trentino, it unmistakably is Nosiola. A prominent player in the region's Vin Santo production, Nosiola is equally well-known for its white wines. This grape is considered native to Trentino, although its origins are unclear. However, its presence and long-standing use in winemaking are certainly undeniable. Although research into the genetic profile of Nosiola has revealed some similarities with other varieties, including its probable parent – the Rezè grape, native to the Valais region of Switzerland, a name that would trace it back to the ancient variety Raetica – it is nevertheless widely believed that Nosiola is, in all respects, a native variety of Trentino. Its presence is most concentrated in the lake area – in the south part of the region – particularly in the Toblino lake area, a territory famous for its production of Vin Santo, in which Nosiola is the absolute protagonist.

 There is no fully shared theory regarding the origin of its name: the most likely holds that it derives from “nocciola” (Italian for “hazelnut”), because of the aroma of this fruit usually found in its wines. Although Nosiola is primarily known for its Vin Santo – a style now produced by only a few wineries and in significantly low quantities – in recent years, producers have also focused on white table wines. Their production is permitted under the Trentino DOC denomination, which is therefore allowed throughout the region. Given the specific characteristics of Nosiola, producers generally vinify it in inert containers, especially steel tanks, thus preserving the grape's sensorial qualities, resulting in wines that are direct and immediate, yet highly recognizable. As is often the case with mono-varietal wines in Italian denominations, Trentino Nosiola must be produced with at least 85% of the homonymous variety, while any additional quota may consist of non-aromatic white grapes permitted in the Trentino region.

 Alcamo wines are certainly among the most well-known in the region, especially the white ones. It should be noted that these wines were recognized with the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) in 1972, among the first to achieve this recognition in Sicily. The primary variety of Alcamo Classico Bianco is Catarratto – comune and/or lucido – a grape that distinguishes the majority of wines from this area. The denomination takes its name from the town of Alcamo, in the province of Trapani, but the production area – according to its disciplinary – also includes areas belonging to the province of Palermo. It should also be noted that the production of white wines, without mentioning the grape variety on the label, can be made in the classico style – the one we are examining in our tasting – which requires the use of at least 80% Catarratto, while in the non-classic style, this percentage must be at least 60%.

 The origins of viticulture in Alcamo date back to around the seventh century BC – introduced by Greek colonists – however, a much older and longer history is hypothesized, even before the times of the Phoenicians. The importance and quality of the wine of this area is also evidenced by the significant commercial activity in Roman times and which continued in the following centuries. Among the first areas in Sicily to be recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) although today the disciplinary provide for different styles, in 1972, when the denomination was initially established, only the white wine was allowed, produced with Catarratto grape. This historic recognition, in fact, after subsequent modifications and the inclusion of other styles in addition to white, saw the definition of the classico style in order to protect and safeguard the initial and historic white wine, requiring a greater proportion of Catarratto – comune and lucido, alone or in combination – to a minimum of 80%.

The color of Trentino Nosiola

 Let's procure the bottles of Trentino Nosiola and Alcamo Classico Bianco that we will be pouring in the glasses of this month's tasting by contrast. Of the two wines, Trentino Nosiola is likely more readily available, even in large-scale retail chains. The same could be true for Alcamo Classico Bianco, which is likely to be available in well-stocked chains. Both wines can be certainly found in any specialized wine shop, since they are well-known wines. Regarding the composition of the Alcamo Classico Bianco, in addition to the 80% Catarratto guaranteed by the disciplinary, we will choose a bottle whose complementary part include Inzolia and Grecanico grapes. In the case of Trentino Nosiola, although the disciplinary provides for a minimum of 85%, we will make sure it is exclusively produced with this variety. In both cases, we will choose bottles from the most recent vintage and vinified in inert containers, preferably steel tanks. The two wines are served at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 We can begin our tasting by contrast and pour Trentino Nosiola and Alcamo Classico Bianco into their respective glasses. The first sensorial characteristic we examine is appearance, that is, how the wines are seen to the eyes in terms of color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Trentino Nosiola, so by tilting its glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper will do – we observe the base. We can see a bright straw yellow color and, by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface, we note very high transparency. We now observe the wine toward the opening of the glass, where the thickness is thinnest, and evaluate the nuance. The Trentino wine reveals a greenish yellow color. We now move on to evaluate the appearance of Alcamo Classico Bianco, so we tilt its glass over the white surface. The Sicilian wine is straw yellow in color, sometimes more intense than Nosiola. Here too, transparency is very high. The nuance of Alcamo Classico Bianco is straw yellow.

 The olfactory profiles of Trentino Nosiola and Alcamo Classico Bianco differ in many ways, although in both wines can be perceived aromas of white-fleshed fruit, as well as yellow and white flowers. These two wines, as we will see, differ substantially in their dried fruit aromas. The olfactory profile of Trentino Nosiola is primarily recognized on the nose with aromas of apple, pear, pineapple, lemon, and peach, along with floral notes of hawthorn and broom. One of the typical olfactory characteristics of Nosiola is hazelnut, a quality that often makes its wines recognizable. The olfactory profile of Alcamo Classico Bianco can be appreciated for its aromas of apple, pear, plum, citrus, pineapple, and peach, as well as floral notes of hawthorn and broom. One of the olfactory characteristics of this Sicilian wine is almond, sometimes bitter, often dominant and intense.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the olfactory profile analysis of Trentino Nosiola and Alcamo Classico Bianco, starting – as in the previous phase – with the Trentino wine. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we perform the first smell in order to evaluate the opening aromas, that is, the primary and identifying olfactory characteristics. On the nose, we perceive intense and pleasing aromas of apple, pear, and lemon, along with a floral sensation reminiscent of hawthorn. We now swirl the glass – an operation favoring the development of the remaining olfactory qualities – and proceed with the second smell. The profile of the wine is completed with notes of broom, pineapple, and peach, along with the unmistakable scent of hazelnut. Let's now move on to evaluating the profile of Alcamo Classico Bianco, proceeding with the opening. After having done the first smell, the nose perceives aromas of apple and pear, along with citrus and hawthorn. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of the Sicilian wine is completed with peach, plum, pineapple, and broom, along with the unmistakable scent of almond.

 Let's move on to evaluating the flavor profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting – as in the previous phases – with Trentino Nosiola. We start by evaluating the attack, that is, the sensations perceived in the mouth after the first sip and which identify the wine. Nosiola is appreciated for its pleasing crispness, which is balanced by the effect of the alcohol, which is generally not strong however enough to balance this sensation. The structure of the wine is rather moderate, with a pleasing direct character combined with flavors of apple and pear, as well as a pleasing acidity reminiscent of lemon, complemented by peach and pineapple. The attack of Alcamo Classico Bianco is appreciated for the pleasing crispness provided by the acidity, again perfectly balanced by the effect of the alcohol, which is more intense than the Trentino wine. Its structure is also stronger than that of Nosiola. Flavors of apple, pear, plum, peach, and pineapple are perceived on the mouth.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, so let's move on to evaluating the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth, in particular their taste-olfactory persistence, one of the primary factors determining a quality in wines. The finish of Trentino Nosiola is persistent, and in the mouth can be still perceived the pleasing crispness of its acidity, its moderate structure, and its rather immediate character. In the mouth is also perceived flavors of apple, pear, and lemon, along with the unmistakable hazelnut flavor. The finish of Alcamo Classico Bianco is persistent, leaving in the mouth a pleasing sensation of crispness, provided by the acidity combined with the effect of the alcohol – more pronounced than the Nosiola – as well as a sensation of fuller body. Moreover, in the mouth can also be perceived the flavors of apple, pear, plum, and peach, as well as almond, a typical characteristic of this Sicilian wine.

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