Who Likes Red Wines?

 Consumer preferences for certain wine styles have always been constantly changing. The succession of new fads and trends is a phenomenon that affects all times and all moments, very often capable of changing and upending consumer habits. Wine, evidently, has always been subject to these phenomena, without exception. Over time, even going back centuries, every era and period has been marked by a preference for a particular wine style, a phenomenon that repeats itself cyclically in favor of one style to the detriment of others, or, no less importantly, of one in particular. In these unique and complicated times for the wine market, discussing consumption is a decidedly complex and “thorny” topic. Above all, from what recent consumption data shows, there is one style that seems to be struggling, although others are nevertheless enjoying consumer favor. This, as mentioned, has always been the case.

 According to recent market and consumer surveys, it seems red wines have long been out of favor with consumers. Considered, at least until a few years ago, “important”, red wines are apparently going through a difficult period in terms of consumption. Evidently, this is also, or perhaps very likely, the result of information campaigns regarding the health effects of alcohol consumption, which inevitably involve wine as well. Personally, although I have no medical or scientific qualification in the field, I insist that it would be better to talk about abuse, thus restoring the proper meaning and measure of the word “consumption”. Besides causing a drastic decline in consumption, it has also favored the notion that certain “immediate” and “simple” wines are healthier than others, particularly reds, which are considered higher in alcohol and heavier. It is sometimes true that they contain a higher amount of alcohol, but it is equally true that this can also be found in other styles, including certain whites and rosés, for example.

 As I have already written in the past, recent years have seen a general decline in the alcohol content of wines: undoubtedly a necessary adaptation to new consumption trends. By remembering that it is always the sum – of the alcohol, in this case – that makes the total, the general tendency is to believe that certain modern wines, simpler and more immediate, but not alcohol-free, are less harmful to health. This also leads to the belief that several glasses of such wines can be consumed, when in reality it would be much less harmful to consume a single glass of red wine, including the so-called “important” or “heavy” ones. I am moreover aware, and convinced, that this is also the result of a certain “new culture” of wine, clearly devastated by an embarrassing superficiality and approximation. I understand that times are changing – they probably already have – however, I increasingly notice that, for many consumers, even those who call themselves enthusiasts, wine represents the act of pouring it into the glass, paying little or no attention to its characteristics – with the exception, in many cases, of the label – and then simply drinking it.

 Furthermore, this scenario also includes the way wine is consumed, which has changed significantly in recent years. This is also because of the growing habit of eating away from home, often a forced choice for work reasons. On these occasions, being aware of the reprise of work commitments, particularly at the end of the lunch break, wine is rarely poured and other beverages are preferred. When work commitments are over, even in case one decides to have dinner at home, the preference for wine is still uncertain. This is especially true for individuals who live alone and, understandably, uncorking a bottle of wine means not consuming it completely and is therefore postponed to another occasion. If then one decides to spend the evening away from home, particularly in the now well-established trend of apéritifs-gatherings, the preference leans more toward light, immediate and easy wines, as well as certain sparkling wines.

 Red wine, therefore, is declining in consumer preferences, not least because of its reputation for being a strong and structured wine, and therefore decidedly “heavy”. In recent years, in part to satisfy these new consumption habits, wineries have begun producing light, moderately structured red wines, with low alcohol content with simple and immediate aromas. Although the commercial push is understandable, when enjoying wine with friends, consumers tend to prefer whites, rosés, and sparkling wines, particularly those produced using the Martinotti or Charmat methods. Red wines are sometimes seen at restaurant tables, especially those occupied by decidedly older customers, belonging to the generation that usually associates the consumption of important red wines with equally important occasions and gatherings. Even in these cases, however, it is not common to see bottles of “robust” red wines at the table, also because of the proposals of certain modern cuisines, which have been lightened exactly like the wines.

 If I think that, until a few years ago – say about ten – the idea of tasting a powerful, mature red wine was the prelude to a special occasion of sharing and dishes expressly prepared to enhance that wine were often served at the table. A habit, in truth, I still have today and happily follow whenever there is the right occasion and in good company. For me, no less, who have always appreciated, and continue to appreciate, those important, powerful, and undeniably elegant red wines, the occasion often turns into a sort of ritual. Let me be clear: I do the very same for any wine that comes to my table, not just reds, but, of course, them too. I understand I belong to a minority, given that consumption is now oriented in favor of “simpler” and “immediate” wines – however respecting their role and dignity – but which often end up going completely unnoticed and forgotten immediately after the first sip. So, who likes red wines? If we consider the current wine consumption, which is decidedly declining, with reds seeming to suffer the most from this condition, the answer might be “probably a few”.

 Consumption trends and habits – including those of wine – are cyclical phenomena, alternating between success and oblivion. At this particular moment, red wine is struggling, while whites, rosés, and sparkling wines – but not all of them – are in vogue and riding high. A few decades ago, however, the exact opposite was true. The majority preferred reds, considered the quintessential wines, while the others, instead, were seen as lesser sons of Bacchus. Although I obviously have my own preferences when it comes to wine, but definitely, no one in particular, since I consider them all worthy and deserving of attention, when I see a wine struggling, frankly, I feel sorry. In this sense, the most enduring disappointment, and one that will likely continue for a long time, is for fortified wines, capable of extraordinary and sumptuous sensorial emotions like few others, and unfortunately still too little considered and appreciated by the majority of consumers. Given the current preferences and consumption habits, predicting a recovery in red wine consumption is quite complicated. Despite having been “stripped” of certain heavy structures and complexity, thus appealing to the modern market – which favors light, simple, immediate, and carefree wines – reds seem today to be “too much wine” for simple consumers. Or perhaps, as has always been the case, and without me ever realizing it in all these years, red wines are for the few and definitely not for everyone.