Calabria and Sicily are among the oldest wine-producing regions in Italy, rich in history and renowned wines, a path that has spanned the centuries to the present day with undiminished enological prestige. Both regions boast over two thousand years of history in which viticulture and enology have played an important role. Historical and archaeological evidence trace the origins of viticulture and wine production to the arrival of ancient colonizers – including the Greeks – who recognized the viticultural potential of these two lands and started wine production. As is well known, when the Greeks arrived in the part of Italy that now includes Calabria, they found such favorable environmental conditions that the place earned the significant name of Enotria, meaning “land of vines and wine”. Although the origin of this name is controversial – oίνoς (oínos) in fact means “wine” in Greek – it is believed that it actually derives from Enotro, a Greek mythological figure, who settled in these lands, which therefore took the name of “Enotria”.

 The history of winemaking and viticulture in Sicily is no less fascinating, where the discovery of fossilized grape seeds suggests the presence of vines – and presumably wine production – as far back as prehistoric times. Furthermore, in addition to the influence of Greek colonists, wine production in Sicily also owes a fundamental contribution to the presence of the Phoenicians, who introduced advanced viticulture and winemaking techniques. These are, therefore, lands boasting ancient viticultural and winemaking origins and traditions, activities that have continued to shape the history of those lands through subsequent eras and, no less importantly, today. The tasting by contrast of this month examines wines produced in two important denomination of Calabria and Sicily – Cirò and Etna – respectively vinified with Gaglioppo and Nerello Mascalese, among the most interesting and significant grapes of these two regions. Furthermore, we will be pouring decidedly lesser-known styles, yet belonging to both denominations: rosés.

 Cirò has been the first Calabrian area to reach, in 1969, the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata status (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and is undeniably the most famous winemaking area of the region, as well as one of its most significant and representative ones. The production disciplinary includes red, white, and rosé wines, all expressions of the typical grapes of the region. Of these, the reds are undeniably the most renowned ones, produced with Gaglioppo, an extraordinary native Calabrian grape variety capable of producing wines of remarkable personality and quality. This interesting variety is also used to make the rosé wines of the denomination, also in this case giving interesting results of character and personality. In this regard, it is worth noting that the red wine from this region has been recognized with the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG), reserved to the wines produced in the classical territory only.

 The denomination takes its name from the homonymous town in the province of Crotone, however production is also permitted in the Cirò Marina area as well as part of the municipalities of Crucoli and Melissa. The red and rosé wines of the denomination are primarily produced with Gaglioppo grape – for a minimum of 80% – and any additional part may consist of red grape varieties permitted in Calabria. In this regard, it is worth noting that almost all producers use Gaglioppo alone for both red and rosé wines, rightly favoring the expression and character of this variety, which is also the most widely planted in Calabria. Red wines of the Cirò denomination produced with Gaglioppo are generally vinified in casks or barriques, while rosé wines are made in inert containers, thus enhancing the characteristic fruit and floral aromas of the grape.

 From a viticultural and enological perspective, the area around the Etna volcano is among the most significant and historic in Sicily. Furthermore, in recent years, this area has attracted growing interest from critics and enthusiasts, thanks – not least – to its unique environmental and climatic conditions, which give extraordinary personality to its wines. The Etna area is recognized by the Italian quality system as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) established in 1968, the first to reach this status in Sicily and – therefore – among the oldest in Italy. The Etna denomination extends across the municipalities surrounding the Etna volcano, in the province of Catania. The production disciplinary include white, red, rosé, and sparkling wines, all produced with typical local varieties. Among the mainstays of the wine in this denomination is Nerello Mascalese, the main variety for red and rosé styles, as well as sparkling wines.

 A grape with remarkable elegance and winemaking potential, Nerello Mascalese – according to the Etna DOC production disciplinary – must be used for at least 80% in red and rosé wines, with a possible complementary portion of Nerello Cappuccio and other non-aromatic red varieties permitted in Sicily. Nerello Cappuccio, in particular, despite its interesting winemaking qualities, is often sacrificed in favor of Nerello Mascalese, which is, in the majority of cases, used alone. This variety has nevertheless gained favor with both producers and consumers, thanks in part to its sensorial qualities of remarkable finesse and elegance, characteristics that are strongly influenced – not least – by the environmental, climatic, and soil conditions typical of the lands near Mount Etna. This elegance is certainly also evident in the rosé wines of the demonination, which, in order to express the unique and characteristic qualities of Nerello Mascalese, are primarily vinified in inert containers.

The color of Cirò Rosato

 Before pouring Cirò Rosato and Etna Rosato into the glasses of our tasting by contrast, let's find the two bottles. While the primary style of these denominations – red – is quite popular and widespread, rosé is decidedly more difficult to find. They are likely to be hard to find on the shelves of large retailers, while they are much more likely to be found in well-stocked specialized wine shops. For both wines, their respective production disciplinary require a minimum of 80% of the primary varieties – Gaglioppo and Nerello Mascalese, respectively – in most cases, Cirò Rosato and Etna Rosato are made from these varietals alone. Although this is the preferred method of most producers, we will make sure the wines we are going to pour are exclusively made from Gaglioppo and Nerello Mascalese. We will also select two bottles belonging to the most recent harvest and pour them into their respective tasting glasses at 12 °C (54 °F).

 Let's begin the tasting by contrast of this month. The first sensorial characteristic we will examine is appearance, that is, how the wines are seen to the eye in terms of color and transparency. The first wine we evaluate is Cirò Rosato, so – after having tilted the glass over a white surface – we observe the base in order to examine the color. The Calabrian wine presents itself to the eyes with a bright cherry pink color, and the nuance – observed at the edge of the glass toward the opening – confirms the same hue. The transparency of Cirò Rosato, assessed by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface, is decidedly high. We now proceed with the analysis of the appearance of Etna Rosato, so, by tilting the glass over the white surface, we observe an intense and bright cherry pink color at the base, generally darker than Cirò Rosato. The nuance of the Sicilian wine confirms the base color, and its transparency, in this case too, is quite high.

 The olfactory profiles of Cirò Rosato and Etna Rosato share – besides their style – some red fruit and floral aromas. The differences are expressed in terms of quality and intensity, making the two wines recognizable and distinct. Moreover, Etna Rosato generally expresses a fresher aroma, as well as sensations of minerality, which are generally absent in Cirò Rosato. Furthermore, environmental and climatic conditions influence the olfactory profiles of the two wines, in particular temperature, soil composition and vineyard altitude. In both wines, as already mentioned, aromas of red fruit can be detected, in particular cherry, raspberry, and strawberry, as well as hints of other fruits, which are not always common in the two wines. As for the floral olfactory qualities, Cirò Rosato and Etna Rosato primarily express aromas of rose and cyclamen.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of Cirò Rosato and Etna Rosato. As in the previous phase, the first wine of which we will evaluate aromas is the Calabrian one. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we proceed with the first smell in order to appreciate the opening of the wine, that is, the primary and identifying olfactory sensations. The nose perceives – intense and clean – aromas of cherry and raspberry, along with floral notes of rose and cyclamen. We now proceed with swirling the glass in order to favor the development of the remaining aromas, and do the second smell. The olfactory profile of Cirò Rosato is completed with blackberry, strawberry, plum, and peach, occasionally followed by sensations reminiscent of carnation and anise. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of Etna Rosato. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, the nose perceives aromas of cherry, raspberry, and strawberry, followed by rose. A distinct minerality is evident from the first sniff. After swirling the glass, the aromatic profile of the Sicilian wine is completed with apple, peach, arbutus berry, mandarin, and cyclamen, occasionally followed by blueberry and blackberry.

 We now proceed with the evaluation of the gustatoty profiles of the two wines, starting – as in the previous phases – with Cirò Rosato. The first gustatory quality we analyze is the attack, that is, the primary sensations perceived in the mouth upon the first sip. The Calabrian wine is immediately recognizable for the pleasing crispness given by the acidity, which quickly finds balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol. The structure is moderate, with a modest yet perceptible roundness; the flavors of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry are clearly perceptible in the mouth. The attack of Etna Rosato is distinguished by the marked crispness given by the acidity, in this case too immediately balanced by the effect of the alcohol. The roundness is moderate and, generally speaking, less intense than Cirò Rosato. The flavors of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, and arbutus berry are clearly perceptible in the mouth, along with a hint of citrus, including mandarin.

 We have reached the end of the tasting by contrast of this month, therefore we can now evaluate the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Cirò Rosato is persistent, with flavors of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry well perceivable in the mouth, along with a pleasing sensation of crispness and moderate structure. The finish of Etna Rosato is also persistent, with flavors of cherry, raspberry, and strawberry clearly perceivable in the mouth, as well as arbutus berry and a citrus note reminiscent of mandarin. The sensation in the mouth is also of pleasing crispness, well-balanced by the effect of alcohol. Before concluding the tasting, let's take a final sniff, first of Cirò Rosato and then of Etna Rosato. On the nose, we can still perceive the olfactory qualities common to both wines, yet with completely distinct expressions that make them recognizable on the nose.