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It was to be expected, unfortunately. Given the extremely bleak and uncertain
conditions which have surrounded trade relations with the United States of
America for months, it could only lead to a similar outcome. While until a few
months ago, it could be considered one of Italy's main trading allies, not only
for wine, the new data and export results have pushed the United States of
America back several places. The primary causes of this situation – as has been
widely known for months – can be traced back to the introduction of tariffs by
the US administration, with the resulting drastic decline in orders. This
situation was undeniably also determined by the euro - US dollar exchange rate,
which clearly contributed to this outcome. In short, for consumers in the United
States of America, wine has become decidedly expensive, and not only that. This
situation, in any case, forces the various stakeholders involved to adopt
appropriate measures, from producers to consumers.
The analysis recently released by the observatory of Unione Italiana Vini,
UIV (Italian Wine Union), covering the two-month period July-August 2025,
reveals – precisely – a drastic decline in export value to the United States of
America, amounting to -28%, a significant result. Unfortunately, this is despite
the measures adopted by Italian producers to limit the trade difficulties
resulting from the introduction of tariffs, such as a reduction in list prices of
approximately -17%. Orders of Italian wine in the United States of America have
fallen sharply, clearly and understandably detrimental to Italian producers. This
progressive decline occurred throughout 2025, despite the good results of the
first quarter, mainly because of the importers' stockpiling in anticipation of
the application of tariffs. Compared to the same period in 2024, a decline of
-26% was recorded in July, further worsening in August with a decline of -30%.
Given these results, the forecasts of the UIV Wine Observatory are decidedly
pessimistic. A further significant decline is expected in September. According to
Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of the Italian Wine Union, this is nevertheless
an expected result, driven precisely by the effect of tariffs and the weakness of
the US dollar against the euro. The president also added, «The situation of
declining US consumption and, at the same time, an increase in orders for
inventory could not be maintained for long, and the data from the summer
two-month period confirms this. Wineries are now called upon to look to the
medium to long term: on the one hand, it will be important to seize the
opportunity to further improve efficiency and management; on the other, to
strengthen their presence in foreign markets, starting with the United States of
America during the stabilization phase. In this context, institutional
intervention in the areas of promotion and internationalization will be crucial.
We are therefore closely monitoring the next Italian government's budget, which
should allocate additional resources to wine promotion through the ICE, the
Italian Trade Agency».
According to the UIV report, exports to non-EU countries – on a customs basis –
showed declines of more than 3% in the first eight months, corresponding to a
4% decrease in volume. Specifically, China recorded a 27% drop, Russia -26%,
Japan -5%, Switzerland -3% and the United Kingdom -2.5%. Canada bucked the
trend, recording a 10.5% increase. Evaluating exports in the first eight months
of 2025, the best result was achieved by sparkling wines, which obtained a 3.7%
increase in volume and a 1.3% increase in value, despite an average price
decrease of 2.2%. Still and sparkling wines, however, bucked the trend,
recording a 5% decrease in volume and a 4.9% decrease in value, with prices
remaining relatively stable and with an average increase of 0.1%. This
situation, of course, is challenging Italian wine producers – and not just them,
of course – especially those primarily focused on exports.
The current situation of Italian wine sales, including exports, is further
detailed in the latest Cantina Italia report of October 31, 2025, released
by the Department of the Italian Central Inspectorate for the Protection of
Quality and the Suppression of Fraud in Agri-food Products. This document reports
the quantities of wines and fermenting musts stored in Italian wineries, as
determined by the results of electronic registers. Before considering the data
reported, it is worth noting that in the specific period to which the document
refers – October 2025 – it is entirely understandable and obvious that the
quantities are heavily influenced by the results of the harvest, and therefore by
the must currently fermenting. This wine, however, will be released for sale in
2026 and, in any case, represents a significant portion of total inventory. It is
not yet wine, but it will be, and as such, it will be an item of sale that is
hoped to be successfully commercialized on the domestic and international markets
starting next year.
The report notes that, as of October 31, 2025, Italian wineries currently hold
44.5 million hectoliters of wine, 14.3 million hectoliters of must, and 14.3
million hectoliters of new wine still in fermentation (VNAIF). Compared to the
same period in 2024, there has been an increase in stocks of +5.2% for wines,
+6.9% for musts, and +6.2% for new wines still in fermentation. This was easily
predictable, given the great success of the 2025 harvest. Considering the
situation as of September 30, 2025, the comparison indicates +23.8% for wines,
+67.4% for musts, and +211.3% for new wines still in fermentation. In terms of
geographical distribution, the northern regions account for the largest amount of
wine – 62.1% – the majority of which is found in Veneto. Furthermore, 55.7%
of the wine currently in storage belongs to Protected Designations of Origin
(PDO), 25.3% to Protected Geographical Indications (PGI), while just 1.5% is
made up of varietal wines and 17.6% is other wines.
Of all wines classified as Protected Geographical Indication, the
concentration is significant, as 20 of the 526 denominations account for 58.9%
of total stocks. The document, as just mentioned, highlights the significant
position of Veneto, which currently accounts for 26.6% of national wine,
particularly in the provinces of Treviso (12.8%) and Verona (8.2%). This is
followed by Emilia-Romagna (12%), Tuscany (11.5%), Apulia (9.4%), Piedmont
(8.8%), Trentino-Alto Adige and Sicily (both 5.6%), Lombardy (5%),
Friuli-Venezia Giulia (3.9%), Abruzzo (3.7%), and the remaining 7.9% in other
regions. Regarding wine types, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)
classification shows a balance between whites and reds – 48.7% and 48.2%,
respectively – while the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) classification
sees red wines prevailing at 55.3%. Regarding musts, 14.3 million hectoliters of
Italian musts are held in the southern (45.9%) and northern (38.2%) regions.
Three regions account for 66.3% of the musts: Apulia (36.2%), Emilia-Romagna
(19.9%), and Piedmont (10.2%). Finally, 14.3 million hectolitres of new wines
still in fermentation (VNAIF) are stored in Italian wineries, of which 58.8% are
in the North, 18.8% in the South, 12.4% in Central Italy and the remaining 10%
in the Islands.
Antonello Biancalana
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