Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. Two great Italian grapes whose mere mention evokes images of wines of extraordinary elegance and prestige in the imagination of enthusiasts. Among the most widely cultivated varieties of Italy – Sangiovese, in particular – these two important grapes consistently stand out for the personality they impart to their wines, even when blended to other varieties. While the homeland of Nebbiolo is Piedmont – the Langhe, in particular – and Valtellina in Lombardy, the one of Sangiovese is decidedly broader, specifically central Italy and Emilia-Romagna, especially in the eastern part. Tuscany, undeniably, is the Italian region which most closely associated its name and winemaking success with Sangiovese, and it is precisely in this region that the most renowned and celebrated wines are produced from this variety. Tuscany is in good company, however, as Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, and Marches, as well as other regions of Italy, produce great wines made with Sangiovese.

 Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco – the two wines we are examining in the tasting by contrast of this month – are certainly among the most iconic wines made with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, respectively. These wines possess great personality and fully express the character of their respective grapes, yet are strongly identified with their own territories. It must be said, in fact, that other wines produced with the same grapes but in different areas, even when not geographically distant, express distinct characteristics, yet attributable to the two varieties. Consider, for example, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or Chianti, when exclusively made with Sangiovese: same grape, completely different wines. The same can be said for Barbaresco: compared to nearby Barolo or Roero, or the more distant Valtellina, the glass yields completely different wines, yet united by the character of Nebbiolo.

 Among the main and most representative wines of Tuscany and Italy, Brunello di Montalcino is also one of the most celebrated wines produced from Sangiovese grape. Recognized by the Italian quality system as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita territory (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) the wines produced in the eponymous area in the province of Siena – Montalcino – also boast some of the most significant and successful stories of the 1900s in Italian winemaking. Brunello, as it is widely known, is the local name for Sangiovese, more specifically, its clone – one of the many – called “Sangiovese Grosso”. This particular clone, known in Montepulciano as “Prugnolo Gentile”, was selected around 1850 by the chemist and pharmacist Clemente Santi, who identified it by noting its thicker skin. This clone was initially called “grosso”, then “bruno” – because of the dark and intense color of the skin – finally “brunello”.

 His grandson, Ferruccio Biondi - Santi, inherited the important work of his grandfather Clemente, continuing to vinify the “grosso” clone as a single varietal, thus paving the way for the incredible success of Brunello di Montalcino, first produced under this name in 1888. The area of Montalcino boasts a long winemaking tradition and history: there are many historical accounts and citations praising the quality of the wines produced here. In this regard, it should be noted that in the past – and before the “birth” of Brunello – the Montalcino area was famous for Moscadello, still produced today from the Muscat Blanc grape. According to the production disciplinary, Brunello di Montalcino is exclusively made from Sangiovese, then aged for a minimum of five years, of which at least two in cask and four months in bottle. The production disciplinary also include a Riserva style, always and exclusively produced with Sangiovese, aged for a minimum of six years, of which at least two in casks and six months in the bottle.

 When one thinks of Nebbiolo grape, the inevitable association is predominantly with the Langhe area of Piedmont and the powerful wines produced from this variety. There are also the magnificent Nebbiolo wines of Valtellina, but it is undeniable that it is precisely with the wines of the Langhe that Nebbiolo has primarily become known to enthusiasts. Among these, undoubtedly, is Barbaresco, a celebrated red wine of this area, and unique interpretation of Nebbiolo, with a strong identity and expression. The wines produced in the Barbaresco area – in the province of Cuneo – have a long history, shared with that of all the Langhe areas, including Barolo, with which it shares the distinction of having achieved Denominazione d'Origine Controllata recognition (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) in the same year, 1966. Barbaresco wines then obtained Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita recognition (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) in 1980.

 The wines produced in this area, as provided by the production disciplinary, include the entire territory of the municipalities of Barbaresco – which gives its name to the denomination – Neive, Treiso, and part of San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, in the municipality of Alba. Barbaresco is produced exclusively with Nebbiolo grape, and also includes the Riserva style, as well as additional geographical indications (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive, MGA) which are defined and recognizable territories within the municipalities that constitute the denomination, which – moreover – may be further qualified by the name of the vineyard. According to the production disciplinary, Barbaresco – before being released for sale – must age for a minimum of 26 months, of which at least 9 months in cask. As for the Riserva style, the minimum aging period must be at least 50 months, with a minimum of 9 months in cask. As for the wooden containers for aging, producers use both cask and barrique, however the cask is the most preferred one.

The color of Brunello di Montalcino

 Before starting the tasting by contrast of this month, let's find the two bottles we will be pouring into glasses. These are widely famous wines, readily available in any wine shop, often also in department stores and large-scale retail chains. Unlike many wines we have suggested in the past, in both cases we do not need to worry about the composition since – for both Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco – the disciplinary provides for the exclusive use of a single grape variety, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, respectively. Regarding the aging times, we will choose non “riserva” wines, that is bottles produced within the mandatory minimum times established by the respective disciplinary. Regarding the vintage, we will choose two bottles from the most recent vintages available on the market. Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco will be served in tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (65 °F).

 Let's begin the tasting, proceeding with the first of the four usual examinations required in the sensorial analysis of a wine – the visual evaluation – that is, how it appears to the eye in terms of color and transparency. We begin by evaluating the appearance of Brunello di Montalcino by tilting the glass over a white surface, an operation for which a simple sheet of white paper is sufficient. We observe the base of the glass: the famous Tuscan wine shows a brilliant ruby red color, and the transparency – observed by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface – is decidedly moderate. Let's now look at the edge of the glass, toward the opening, where the wine becomes thinner, in order to evaluate the nuance. In this aspect, Brunello di Montalcino reveals a ruby red color tending towards garnet. Let's now move on to evaluating the appearance of Barbaresco. Also in this case, the base of the glass reveals a brilliant ruby red color and, as in the previous wine, a moderate transparency. The nuance also confirms the ruby red color, sometimes with hints of garnet.

 The olfactory profiles of Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco reveal profoundly different characteristics on the nose, despite sharing aromas of red fruits and flowers. In both cases, they are appreciated for their remarkable elegance and finesse, qualities certainly attributed to the respective varieties from which they are produced – Sangiovese and Nebbiolo – but also to the peculiarities of their respective territories, not least the winemaking techniques. In the specific case of Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco, we must consider the influence of cask aging. Therefore, in the olfactory profiles of these wines, the perception of tertiary sensations, conferred by wood aging and time, evidently plays an important role. The personalities of Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, in any case, are decidedly imposing, and when the aging techniques are conducted harmoniously and balanced, they can however and perfectly express their typical and distinctive olfactory qualities.

 Let's proceed with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of the wines in our tasting by contrast, starting – as in the previous phase – with Brunello di Montalcino. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we perform the first smell in order to assess the opening, that is, the primary and identifying aromas. The celebrated Montalcino wine is recognized on the nose by its aromas of black cherry, plum, and violet, three olfactory qualities typical of wines made with Sangiovese. We now swirl the glass – an operation favoring the development of the remaining aromas – and proceed with the second smell. The olfactory profile of Brunello di Montalcino is completed with blueberry, raspberry, and occasionally blackberry, as well as floral sensations reminiscent of roses, even dried ones. We will also perceive aromas attributable to the aging in wood, specifically vanilla, tobacco, cocoa, licorice, and menthol. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of Barbaresco, so, by holding the glass upright, let's proceed with the first sniff. Barbaresco is recognized on the nose by its aromas of cherry, raspberry, and plum, along with violet. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile is completed with strawberry, occasionally blackberry, along with a sequence of tertiary aromas imparted by time and wood, particularly vanilla, tobacco, licorice, chocolate, cinnamon, and a pleasing balsamic hint of menthol.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco, starting with the Tuscan wine. Let's take a sip and analyze its attack, that is, the identifying sensations that are initially perceived in the mouth. Brunello di Montalcino is recognized for its robust yet extremely elegant structure, with a clearly perceptible astringency that finds immediate balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol and a moderate roundness, the latter conferred by the aging in wood. A pleasing crispness is also perceived, a characteristic of Sangiovese. On the palate, we also perceive flavors of black cherry, plum, and raspberry. Let's now move on to evaluating the attack of Barbaresco: on the palate, we immediately perceive its greater structure, with a decidedly more intense astringency compared to Brunello di Montalcino. Here too, Barbaresco finds immediate balance thanks to the effect of the alcohol and a moderate roundness conferred by the aging in wood. Furthermore, there is a distinct sensation of crispness, thanks again to the acidity of Nebbiolo, which is decidedly more intense than the Tuscan wine. Finally, the palate perceives flavors of cherry, plum, raspberry, and strawberry.

 We are about to conclude the tasting by contrast of this month and proceed to evaluate the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Brunello di Montalcino is decidedly long and persistent, leaving a pleasing and elegant sensation of crispness in the mouth which combines with a sense of structure, as well as a pleasing astringency that is further balanced by the alcohol. In the mouth are perceived evident flavors of black cherry, plum, and raspberry. The finish of Barbaresco is certainly no less, and here too, it expresses a decidedly long persistence, with a sensation of rather robust structure that combines with the typical astringency of Nebbiolo. Also in this wine, it can be perceived a remarkable elegance, well-supported by a pleasing crispness that balances with the alcohol. In the mouth can be clearly perceived the pleasing flavors of cherry, plum, raspberry, and strawberry.