Wines produced on islands, especially those with a decidedly small surface area, are undeniably characterized by a unique and special charm. Often rare due to the small quantities produced, they are mostly made with grape varieties often used for winemaking almost exclusively on the island. These are, in the majority of cases, varieties introduced to the area, where they have adapted perfectly and proved their ability to produce excellent wines. In these small paradises surrounded by seawater, vineyards – inevitably – share, and therefore take away, land and surface areas from the social activities of inhabitants, a factor that necessarily makes these wines even more precious, special, and rare. Furthermore, the specific conditions of life and production typical of small islands further complicate the entire wine production, from vineyard cultivation to winemaking.

 The islands of Ischia and Elba, of course, are no exception, with vineyards cultivated even on areas which are not exactly favorable and suitable for cultivation and harvesting. Although the total surface area of the two islands cannot be considered modest or small – especially Elba – the areas dedicated to vineyard cultivation are still “modest” when compared to the wine-growing regions of the mainland. This, however, allows for an extremely varied and rich wine production, with wines virtually belonging to every style, from whites to reds, as well as wines made from dried grapes. The allure of the wines produced on the islands is further enhanced by historical reasons, as – very often – their wine production boasts ancient origins and roots. Last but not least, the vineyards cultivated on the islands, with modest or small surface areas, are strongly influenced by the particular climate that develops as a result of the sea. This condition also significantly influences the character and organoleptic qualities of the wines.

 Viticulture and wine production on the island of Elba – in the province of Livorno, Tuscany – has always been a vital activity, dating back to the times of the ancient Etruscans. The wines produced on the island were so famous and highly regarded that they fostered a flourishing production, with sales and exports representing a significant source of profit for the economy of the island. This activity continued through Roman times and until the second half of the 19th century, when the dreaded phylloxera plague reached the island, causing extensive damage, compromising viticulture and wine production, as well as the entire economy of the island. Until the early 20th century, Elba was considered one of the main and prestigious wine-producing areas of Tuscany, a position that – over the course of the last century – declined dramatically, reaching just 100 hectares of vineyards by the 1970s. The revival of Elba wine took place in 1967 with the recognition of the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Controlled Denomination of Origin, DOC), which helped revive interest in wine production on the island, with the consequent increase in wineries and vineyards.

 The current ampelography of Elba is strongly influenced by the changes that occurred during the Renaissance, when many of the grapes that still distinguish the wines of the island today were introduced. Trebbiano Toscano, Sangiovese, and Aleatico were introduced from inland Tuscany, the latter now considered the primary representative of Elba. From Sicily came Moscato Bianco and Ansonica, the variety we will examine in the tasting by contrast of this month, known there as Inzolia. Finally, Vermentino was imported from Liguria and Corsica, which, along with Trebbiano Toscano and Ansonica, makes up the white wine (bianco) of the island. Ansonica, thanks to its thick, fragrant skins, is also used in the production of sweet wines from dried grapes. The dry table wine style is, however, the best-known and most widely produced with this grape, and it is the one we will pour in our glasses. The most common interpretation is that of vinification in inert containers, in particular steel tanks, a practice that allows the best expression of the organoleptic qualities of Ansonica.

 Viticulture and wine production on the island of Ischia boasts a history dating back to ancient times, evidenced by important finds dating back to the colonization by the ancient Euboeans, around 770 BC. The famous Nestor's Cup, dating back to this period and engraved with a tribute to the quality of the island's wine, is a proof of the ancient origin. Viticulture on the island of Ischia developed primarily thanks to the influence of Greek viticultural practices and has always been an important activity in the economy of the island. Due to the unique morphology of the land, viticulture is practiced on the steep slopes using terraces supported by dry-stone tuff walls. This characteristic, in addition to distinguishing the island's viticultural landscape, increases the difficulty of cultivation and harvesting operations, so much so that it can be properly defined as heroic viticulture. The island's white wines have always been an important commercial resource, so much so that they were even exported – as early as 1500 – to Dalmatia.

 Although the island of Ischia boasts a native variety – San Lunardo, now rarely grown on the island – the primary white grapes used in winemaking are Biancolella and Forastera, the latter used in the wines we are going to evaluate this month. These two varieties, which together constitute the island's white wine (bianco), are often vinified as a single varietal, demonstrating excellent winemaking capabilities with remarkable results. Forastera – the grape we are examining in the tasting of this month – takes its name from the Latin forasterus, meaning “foreigner”, therefore a variety introduced to the island, presumably from the Mediterranean, although its exact origins are unknown. Forastera is nevertheless today considered a native variety of the island of Ischia, as well as being one of the primary representatives of the white wines of this land. Forastera – which belongs to the Denominazione d'Origina Controllata Ischia – Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC – is primarily produced in inert containers, a characteristic that enhances its specific organoleptic qualities and makes it extremely suitable for pairing with local cuisine.

The color of Elba Ansonica

 Before pouring the wines of the tasting by contrast of this month into our glasses, we will be sourcing the two bottles. In both cases – given the limited production and the number of wineries on the islands of Ischia and Elba – purchasing the two wines may be difficult in large-scale retail stores. It is certainly more likely to find Elba Ansonica and Ischia Forastera in wine shops, especially the more well-stocked ones. Furthermore, as required by their respective production disciplinary, these wines can be produced with a minimum of 85% of the varieties indicated on the label, so we will make sure that Elba Ansonica and Ischia Forastera are made entirely and exclusively from their respective grapes. We will also make sure that both wines are vinified using inert containers, preferably steel tanks. Regarding the vintage, we will purchase bottles from the latest harvest. The two wines are poured into tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 We pour Elba Ansonica and Ischia Forastera into their respective glasses and finally begin the tasting by contrast of this month. The first sensorial characteristic we examine is appearance, and it should be noted that these two wines do not present any substantial visual differences. The first wine we examine – specifically, its appearance – is Elba Ansonica. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base. The color of this Tuscan wine is a brilliant, intense straw yellow. We now evaluate its transparency, so we place an object in contrast with the white surface, a quality that is very high in Elba Ansonica. We now observe the wine toward the opening of the glass, at its narrowest point, and evaluate the nuance, revealing a greenish yellow color. Let's move on to evaluating the appearance of Ischia Forastera: in this case too, the color is an intense and brilliant straw yellow, with very high transparency and a greenish-yellow hue.

 The olfactory profiles of Elba Ansonica and Ischia Forastera express similar qualities in the glass, albeit with distinct intensities and characters. They are predominantly characterized by yellow and white flowers, along with white and yellow-fleshed fruit, often with citrus notes. Wines produced with Ansonica in the Elba Island are appreciated on the nose for aromas of apple, pear, plum, and peach, along with floral notes of hawthorn and broom. Hints of exotic fruit are also present, particularly pineapple, along with a hint of almond. Wines produced with Forastera grapes are primarily appreciated for aromas of white and yellow-fleshed fruit, such as apple, pear, peach, and plum, along with citrus notes, particularly citron and grapefruit. Among the floral notes, Ischia Forastera is primarily characterized by hawthorn and broom. Both wines also express aromas reminiscent of aromatic herbs, such as rosemary. Finally, the effect and influence of sea breezes give these wines mineral and brackish sensations.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Elba Ansonica and Ischia Forastera, starting – as in the previous phase – with the Tuscan wine. Holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, we proceed with the first smell to assess the opening of the wine, that is, its primary and identifying olfactory sensations. From the glass, we can appreciate intense, clean, and pleasing aromas of apple, pear, and hawthorn, an opening also found in wines produced with this grape in Sicily. Now, swirling the glass, which favors the development of the remaining olfactory sensations, we proceed with the second smell. Elba Ansonica completes its olfactory profile with broom, plum, peach, pineapple, and sensations reminiscent of citrus and almond. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of the Ischia Forastera. Holding the glass in vertical position, we proceed with the first smell. On the nose, intense, clean, and pleasant aromas of apple, pear, and peach are perceived, along with a floral note of hawthorn. After swirling the glass, the Ischian wine completes its aromatic profile with broom, cedar, grapefruit, plum, and occasionally rosemary. Both wines also frequently express mineral and brackish sensations.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the two wines, starting, again, with Elba Ansonica. We then proceed with evaluating the attack, that is, the main sensations the wine expresses in the mouth upon first sip. We immediately perceive in the mouth a pleasing crispness, provided by the acidity, a quality which is balanced by the effect of the alcohol. Elba Ansonica has good structure, and flavors of apple, pear, and plum are perceived on the palate, thus expressing a good correspondence with the nose. Furthermore, in the mouth is also perceived a slight but appreciable roundness, a quality that contributes to the balance of the wine. Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profile of the Ischia Forastera. We take a sip of the Campanian wine and then evaluate its attack. The pronounced crispness provided by the acidity is immediately noticeable on the palate, again perfectly balanced by the pseudo-caloric sensation of the alcohol. The flavors of apple, pear and peach are also perceived in the mouth, thus confirming a good correspondence with the nose.

 We are just about to conclude this month's tasting by contrast, so let's move on to evaluating the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, particularly their taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Elba Ansonica is persistent, and the flavors of apple, pear, and plum are still clearly perceptible in the mouth, as well as the unmistakable, slightly bitter hint reminiscent of almonds. Furthermore, the pleasing crispness provided by the acidity continues to be noticeable on the palate, along with a sensation of good structure. The finish of Ischia Forastera is persistent, and the flavors of apple, pear, and peach are perceptible on the palate, along with a crisp and acidic sensations reminiscent of citrus fruits, such as citron and grapefruit. The pleasing structure of the wine continues to be perceptible in the mouth, well-supported by the crispness provided by the acidity. We conclude the tasting with a final nose of the two wines, first Elba Ansonica and then Ischia Forastera. Although the wines share common olfactory sensations, their respective profiles are very distinct and different.