Dealcoholized Wine Arrives in Italy, Too

 At last, even in Italy we will have the much-discussed dealcoholized wine, that is, alcohol-free or non-alcoholic wines. Or, as far as I am concerned, a liquid thing derived from wine – and which is no longer wine – obtained by a mechanical or thermal process that separates this liquid thing from ethyl alcohol. In recent days, in fact, with a specific inter-ministerial decree from the MEF-MASAF (Italian Ministry of Economy and Finance – Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry), Italy authorized the production of dealcoholized wines. A measure that, although long-awaited by some producers, remains extremely divisive. Not only among consumers, but also among producers, especially the smaller and – let me say so – orthodox ones, since the production of dealcoholized wine is neither a simple nor a cost-effective operation. The news was welcomed with great satisfaction by the major producers, who will undoubtedly have no difficulty in equipping themselves with dealcoholization plants in addition to the due obligations and costs.

 To be fair, many producers believe that the possibility of producing dealcoholized wine represents a significant market opportunity, which is expected to generate substantial economic profits. Indeed, many argue that dealcoholized wine will be strategic and crucial to the recovery of the wine industry, as it is capable of meeting new market and consumer trends. What it is not said, however, or perhaps not entirely clear, is that producing dealcoholized wine introduces new costs for producers – and not just at the production level – which, it seems inevitable, will certainly impact the final price, and therefore consumers. Personally speaking, this seems to me to be the least critical aspect, since if a consumer asks for a “special” product which is potentially more expensive to make, they must be aware of the possibility of paying a higher price.

 I have already expressed my opinion in the past regarding the so-called dealcoholized wines, and I certainly have not changed my opinion, while respecting those who may have an interest in consuming this “product”. My objection, in any case, has not changed, but it bothers me that, in some way, they are called “wines”, therefore equating them with the real ones. I am convinced that a different name should have been chosen, but it is obvious that the term “wine” is evidently useful, very useful, for its marketing. I remain firmly convinced that, in any case, dealcoholized wine does not and will not be good for real wine. Having two products with the same name but – as a matter of fact – completely different introduces a new cultural identity for wine, that is, one which is, or can be, alcohol-free. This, over time, could probably become the norm, thus replacing real wine in consumption habits. One could argue, in this regard, that non-alcoholic beer has existed for decades and, despite this, it has not had a substantial impact on the production and market of real beer.

 Of course, undeniably and evidently true. However, it is equally clear that beer has not been subjected to the same massive accusatory and denigratory campaign as wine, or rather, the alcohol it contains. It is equally true that beer, with a few exceptions and styles, has a significantly lower alcohol content than wine, generally half as much, in some cases even three times less. But this does not mean that beer – or any other alcoholic beverage – is any less “dangerous” to the health. As it is said, “it is the sum of the parts that make the total”. Total alcohol, of course. I would also add, no less importantly, an issue that I believe is fundamental for anyone who tastes wine: balance. Removing alcohol from wine inevitably creates a significant imbalance – at the very least – in favor of acidity and, when present, astringency. Alcohol, in fact, not only produces the well-known burning and pseudo-caloric sensation, but also stimuli directly linked to sweetness and roundness.

 By removing alcohol, therefore, the non-trivial need to restore the gustatory balance of wine arises. But that is not all. Alcohol is an important element for the expression of aromas, as it promotes their development and perception by the nose. In other words, dealcoholized wines are potentially less fragrant and “expressive”. From an enological perspective, of course, all this does not constitute an insurmountable problem, since any enologist knows very well how to effectively compensate for and restore the gustatory balance of a wine as well as “aiding” the expression of the aromas. It is pointless to list the techniques and substances useful for this purpose – every enologist and taster worthy of the title knows very well how to do it – adding, to avoid any misunderstanding or misinterpretation, that these are techniques, methods, and substances which are absolutely licit, legal, and permitted in enology. It does not end there. Alcohol, moreover, is an excellent preservative – of course not the only one present in wine – and ensures a certain health and microbiological stability, even over time. This means that dealcoholized wines have a decidedly shorter “life”, requiring, no less, the indication of an expiration date. Think about this: a wine with an expiration date, just like – no offense intended – a “yogurt”!

 All this, at least to me, makes me smile, especially considering that for years everyone have cried scandal at the slightest suspicion of chemical adulteration in wine – by anyway considering that wine is chemistry – and the idea that replacing alcohol could increase the use of chemicals in production, perhaps, raises no objections. Furthermore, a wine with an expiration date should make us think about the point of calling it wine. However, in these times, as is well known, the important thing is that a new trend is created – possibly to be blathered on randomly across all social media, confused in the frenetic competition for likes and the obsession with self-celebratory selfies – it does not matter how, as long as it receives the sacred blessing of the new school of thought, and (almost) everyone lives happily ever after. I reiterate, on this occasion too: I have nothing against the production and marketing of these wines, aware that there are consumers interested in or obliged to consume them for various reasons and causes, including no less important medical, health, moral, ethical reasons and legitimate lifestyle choices.

 I am equally aware, however, that the much-maligned ethyl alcohol is an integral part of wine, especially in sensorial terms as well as of its identity. Wine is not just alcohol. Anyone who consumes wine or any other alcoholic beverage consciously is certainly not an irresponsible scoundrel or a drunkard. If the problem of alcohol abuse and its deplorable consequences exists – and the problem evidently and indisputably exists – the fault lies not with alcohol or the beverage itself, but with a lack of culture. Of course, it is easier to eliminate the problem – alcohol, in this case – than to invest in culture. In these times of “get it all, now, and easily”, creating and promoting a culture is an unimaginable enterprise. We must acknowledge that in Italy, too, the existence and production of alcohol-free wine is sanctioned by law. A step that will certainly give wine a new image, identity, and role, accepted as an alternative to the real thing, and therefore equated or comparable to it, as “wine”. It will only be a simple and trivial matter of time, perhaps not even that far away. As Julius Caesar famously said, before crossing the Rubicon River, “alea iacta est” (the die is cast), therefore – since for many, the salvation of the wine market depends on this – when will the first dealcoholized DOC and DOCG wines be made?