![]() Wine Culture and Information since 2002 - Volume 23 |
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MerlotThe famous red grape is one of the most spread and known in the world. Fundamental element in many wines, Merlot is also vinified alone with excellent results, however there are also mediocre and disappointing examples |
Among the most common and spread international grapes in the world, as well as being one of the most common terms known to wine lovers, there is Merlot. From its homeland, Bordeaux, Merlot walked a long way and it spread everywhere also thanks to its qualities and, last but not the least, to the unmistakable style it gives to its wines. For many Merlot is what it is Chardonnay for white grapes: a grape which ensures good yields and a good versatility in the wine making practices. Merlot can make, and this is of course true for every grape, truly modest and ordinary wines, virtually produced in every country where it is found, as well as wines of superb elegance, such as the famous examples produced at Pomerol and Saint-Emilion in the Bordeaux area. The most common use of Merlot is in the composition of assembled wines, blended to other grapes it is always successful in adding its character and its contribution. A classical example where Merlot is used together with other grapes is the one of Bordeaux, in particular in the Médoc area, where it is mainly blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The use of Merlot in blends is a very common practice in other countries as well, such as Italy where it is frequently added to traditional grapes like Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Nebbiolo. Merlot is also used alone, as a mono varietal wine and without adding any other grape, and when it is cultivated in favorable conditions and properly vinified, it is capable of remarkable results. Thanks to its round character, Merlot gained the support of many wine lovers, but also lots of detractors because of the high number of wines where it is being used worldwide. For this reason Merlot is often blamed for being the main responsible of the homologation of many red wines having the so called international taste.
Why did Merlot spread everywhere and meet the taste of so many people in the world? The reason could be explained by two fundamental factors. The fame of French wines, certainly deserved, has been for years the reference model for the majority of wine producers all over the world. The reason for success of French wines was mainly believed to be because of the grapes they used, most of the times without considering the fact that environmental and climatic conditions of France were a fundamental factor as well and, first of all, unique, as well as they are unique the conditions of every other place of the world. Convinced that the success could be ensured by just using French grapes - including Merlot - the spreading was pretty fast and it virtually reached every wine producing country of the world. Sad to admit, this also favored the production of huge quantities of mediocre wines that were sold at high prices only because they were produced with these grapes. Even worse to admit, this practice is still frequent now and some producers speculate on the price of wine when they make use of international grapes, including Merlot. The other reason that ensured the success of Merlot is its organoleptic characteristics, in particular its taste. Merlot is a grape with a pretty low content in acid, a pretty modest quantity of tannins, and the wines produced with this grape can have a percentage of alcohol higher than many other wines. These three characteristics give Merlot wines a round, soft and velvety taste, that is those qualities which easily meet the taste of a pretty high number of people. These characteristics are usually perceived also in those wines where the grape is present, a factor that can be appreciable even when Merlot is used in modest quantities. Moreover wines produced with Merlot usually tend to age faster than others, such as the ones produced with Cabernet Sauvignon, therefore they become more pleasing to drink in less time. Merlot is usually appreciated by many wine makers who like to use it because of its pretty versatile qualities and can ensure good results in most of the cases. It should be noticed this grape is often used in those wines which are too much rough and harsh in order to make them more drinkable and soft and the effects are most of the times amazing. Merlot is also particularly suited for the aging in cask - and this is the most frequent treatment for this grape - and it often takes advantage of the aromas and tastes passed from wood which give a higher complexity to its relatively simple character. In case what we have written so far made readers think of Merlot as an universal grape capable of working real enological miracles - and there are many to believe this - it should be remembered Merlot is no exception to the fundamental rules of viticulture and wine making. In other words not all the Merlot wines are worth of attention, as always, a grape, alone, does not ensure a good result. This is confirmed by that ocean of wine made of Merlot and that, frankly speaking, can be just considered as mediocre. The good news is represented by those many wines produced with Merlot of magnificent and absolute value. Two conditions - it should be remembered - that are applicable to every other grape. According to a viticultural point of view, Merlot is a grape which ripens earlier than other varieties, does not stand to the effects of rain just before harvesting and it is sensible to the development of molds. By considering its wide spreading in the world, Merlot has good capacities of adaptability in many climatic conditions, however it prefers areas with a pretty cool climate where it produces the best results, such as in the areas of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux. Merlot seems to prefer a clay and humid soil, however there are also good results obtained in other types of soils, whereas an excessively drained soil greatly affects the development of bunches. The aging potential of its wines is generally of 6 years, a period that can also be longer than ten years in the best conditions. Thanks to its qualities, wines produced with Merlot ages earlier than other wines and therefore they become drinkable and ready in less time.
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The range of colors that can be observed in wines produced with Merlot are, of course, the typical colors found in red wines. However, because of a more rapid aging, these wines generally tend to show nuances of garnet red just after three or four years. The variation towards nuances of garnet red is obviously more rapid and visible in wines of low quality, produced with pretty high yields in vineyards, whereas the ones produced with quality procedures, Merlot shows firm ruby red nuances even after more years. Transparency in Merlot wines is not pretty low - a characteristic, once again, strongly influenced by viticultural practices - and it is usually more transparent than a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Sangiovese. The color of a Merlot ready to drink is generally of brilliant ruby red and not very deep with nuances of the same color and, occasionally, slightly purple red.
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Merlot is a grape having pretty moderate aromatic characteristics and therefore its wines are usually aged in cask - most of the times in new oaks - with interesting results which easily meet the taste of consumers. The range of typical aromas of Merlot resemble red and black berried fruits, however - just like any other grape - the aromatic range is influenced by climatic, viticultural and environmental conditions. Wines produced with Merlot grape and cultivated in areas having a cool climate or harvested before reaching full ripeness, are usually characterized by aromas resembling vegetables and herbs, such as bell pepper and bruised leaf, as well as aromas of fruit, in particular red berried fruits, such as raspberry. Wines produced in areas having a warm climate, or with grapes that reached full ripeness, are characterized by stronger and cleaner aromas of fruits, where can be perceived aromas of black berried fruits such as blueberry, blackberry, black cherry and plum, as well as aromas of jams made of the same fruits. In these wines can also be perceived aromas of flowers and in particular the aroma of violet. Merlot can also have typical balsamic aromas - such as eucalyptus and menthol - a characteristic which is more evident in wines produced in areas having cooler climates or with not perfectly ripe grapes. The aromatic evolution of Merlot is pretty interesting and with time it can also get interesting aromas of game, caramel, mushrooms, truffle, spices while greatly emphasizing aromas of fruits evolved into rich jams. In some cases it can also develop aromas of butter and keep vegetal aromas and mown grass as well as balsamic aromas of eucalyptus and menthol.
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The taste of wines produced with Merlot is certainly emphasized by the most identifiable and typical character of the grape, a quality which is usually appreciated by consumers and by its supporters. Thanks to the low quantity of acids and to the moderate contents in tannins, wines produced with Merlot grape are generally round, soft and velvety to the palate. The content in alcohol is pretty high and this factor contributes to the overall roundness of the wine. These gustatory characteristics are generally appreciable even when Merlot is blended with other grapes. In general terms this is the most frequent reason for which this grape is widely used in enology: the presence of Merlot always gives wine a rounder and less aggressive character, in other words, more drinkable. This gustatory characteristic of Merlot is however strongly influenced by the way the grape was cultivated and vinified. The round character of Merlot is less perceivable in ordinary and light wines, whereas it can also have a velvety, caressing and enchanting character in the most bodied and structured styles.
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The homeland of Merlot is Bordeaux where the grape represents, alone, more than the half of the viticultural production of the region. The best examples of wines produced with Merlot grapes - or however with a relevant percentage - are Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. In these two areas, thanks to the local climate, the aromatic character of the grape is extraordinarily expressed by a richness which goes from vegetables to ripe fruits and jams. Other good examples of wines produced with Merlot in the Bordeaux area are the ones from Fronsac, Canon Fronsac, Côtes de Bourg and Côtes de Blaye. Merlot is very common in Italy as well, where it is used both blended with other grapes and alone. The grape is pretty common in the north-eastern area of the country, in Trentino, Alto Adige, Veneto and, in particular, Friuli Venezia Giulia where it is used to make interesting wines. Other European areas where interesting examples of Merlot wines are produced include Switzerland and, in less quantities, Spain, Bulgaria and Hungary. In the so called New World Merlot is widely present and used in every country. The production of Merlot wines in California is pretty high and, above all, pretty varied. In this state are produced Merlots with pretty wide quality levels, from ordinary and modest wines up to excellent examples, in particular the ones produced at Napa Valley and Sonoma. The state of Washington is certainly an interesting producer of Merlot wines, also thanks to its favored climatic conditions more suited to this grape than in California, and the style clearly reflects the one of Bordeaux. In South America, Chile is the country which offers the best examples of Merlot wines, in particular the ones produced in the Rapel Valley. Even South Africa has a pretty remarkable production of Merlot wines and the best examples are the ones produced in the so called Cape area, in particular Paarl and Stellenbosch. In Australia Merlot is not very used alone, however even in this country there are good examples. New Zealand produces good Merlots and the most interesting examples are the ones from Hawkes Bay.
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Wines of the Month |
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Score legend![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Prices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the country or the shop where wines are bought |
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Besler Biank 2001 |
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Pojer & Sandri (Italy) | |
Grapes: Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Incrocio Manzoni, Kerner | |
Price: € 12,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This wine shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing, elegant and refined aromas which start with good hints of elder and peach followed by intense aromas of pineapple, banana, apple, litchi, pear, broom and pleasing hints of sage and bell pepper. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however well balanced, good body, intense flavors, pleasing crispness. The finish is persistent with good flavors of pineapple, peach, pear and litchi. A well made wine. Besler Biank ages for 12 months in cask. | |
Food Match: Pasta and risotto with fish, Mushrooms soup, Roasted fish, Crustaceans |
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Trentino Traminer Aromatico 2002 |
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Casata Monfort (Italy) | |
Grapes: Gewürztraminer | |
Price: € 7,90 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows a brilliant straw yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of citronella and peach followed by aromas of hawthorn, broom, apple, honey, pear and plum. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of peach and plum. This wine ages in steel tanks for 5 months. | |
Food Match: Sauteed fish, Pasta and risotto with fish and mushrooms, Mushrooms soups |
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Monfort Rosa 2002 |
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Casata Monfort (Italy) | |
Grapes: Moscato Rosa | |
Price: € 12,50 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows a pale ruby red color and nuances of deep pink, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean and pleasing aromas that start with hints of rose and strawberry followed by aromas of raspberry, black cherry, plum and hints of dried violet and almond. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly crisp attack and however balanced, pleasing sweetness, good body, intense flavors, pleasing. The finish is persistent with flavors of strawberry and raspberry. This Moscato Rosa ages for 10 months in steel tanks and for 3 months in bottle. | |
Food Match: Fruit cakes, Desserts |
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Creso 1999 |
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Bolla (Italy) | |
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Corvina (15%) | |
Price: € 21,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of black cherry and black currant followed by aromas of blueberry, licorice, tobacco, dried violet, vanilla and hints of black pepper and cocoa. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, black currant and blueberry. This wine ages for 21 months in barrique, for 5 months in cask followed by one year of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Braised and stewed meat with mushrooms, Roasted meat, Broiled meat and barbecue |
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Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2001 |
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Bolla (Italy) | |
Grapes: Corvina, Corvinone | |
Price: € 17,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This Recioto shows a deep ruby red color and nuances of purple red, little transparency. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing and elegant aromas which start with hints of black cherry jam, blackberry jam and dried plum followed by aromas of raspberry, blueberry jam, vanilla, licorice, chocolate, dried violet and hints of cinnamon, clover and peach. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic and sweet attack however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, pleasing. The finish is persistent with flavors of dried plum, black cherry jam and peach. This wine ages for 4 months in barrique. | |
Food Match: Fruit cakes, Piquant and hard cheese |
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Merlot di San Leonardo 2001 |
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Tenuta San Leonardo (Italy) | |
Grapes: Merlot | |
Price: € 9,80 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and elegant aromas which start with hints of black cherry and black currant followed by aromas of blueberry, raspberry, vanilla and violet. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however well balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry and black currant. This Merlot ages in cask for 18 months and at least 4 months in bottle. | |
Food Match: Sauteed meat with mushrooms, Stuffed pasta, Broiled meat and barbecue |
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Villa Gresti 2000 |
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Tenuta San Leonardo (Italy) | |
Grapes: Merlot | |
Price: € 36,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing, elegant and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry and black currant followed by good and intense aromas of blueberry, raspberry, plum, vanilla, cyclamen, licorice and hints of cocoa, eucalyptus and toasted wood. In the mouth has very good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however well balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is persistent with good flavors of black cherry, blueberry and raspberry. A very well made wine. Villa Gresti ages for 12-14 months in barrique followed by at least 12 months of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Game, Hard cheese |
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Alto Adige Sauvignon Mock 2002 |
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Cantina Santa Maddalena (Italy) | |
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc | |
Price: € 10,50 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of peach, litchi and pineapple followed by aromas of acacia, pear, broom, banana, apple, bell pepper, box and elder. In the mouth has very good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of peach, litchi and pear. A well made wine. | |
Food Match: Roasted and broiled fish, Pasta and risotto with fish and vegetables, Crustaceans |
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Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Taber 2001 |
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Cantina Santa Maddalena (Italy) | |
Grapes: Lagrein | |
Price: € 22,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows a deep ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing, elegant and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry and blueberry followed by good aromas of raspberry, cyclamen, blackberry, plum, violet, vanilla, licorice and pleasing hints of cocoa and coriander. In the mouth has very good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however well balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with good flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry. A well made wine. This Lagrein ages for one year in barrique. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese |
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Taburno Falanghina 2002 |
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Cantina del Taburno (Italy) | |
Grapes: Falanghina | |
Price: € 5,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows an intense greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with pleasing hints of pear and peach followed by aromas of hawthorn, acacia, broom, pineapple, litchi, apple and hints of banana. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, delicate, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with good flavors of peach, pear and litchi. | |
Food Match: Fish appetizers, Boiled fish and crustaceans, Risotto with crustaceans and vegetables |
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Delius 2000 |
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Cantina del Taburno (Italy) | |
Grapes: Aglianico | |
Price: € 16,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas that start with hints of plum, black cherry and vanilla followed by aromas of blueberry, blackberry, violet, licorice and carob. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum, black cherry and blueberry. Delius ages for 12 months in barrique. | |
Food Match: Stewed and braised meat with mushrooms, Roasted meat, Game, Hard cheese |
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Hermitage Blanc Nobles Rives 2000 |
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Cave de Tain l'Hermitage (France) | |
Grapes: Marsanne | |
Price: € 46,20 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The wine shows a pale golden yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with good hints of apple, pear and broom followed by aromas of walnut-husk, hawthorn, hazelnut, plum, toasted wood and pleasing mineral hints. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however well balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, pleasing roundness. The finish is persistent with good flavors of pear and apple. Part of this wine is fermented in barrique. | |
Food Match: Crustaceans, Roasted fish, Sauteed meat with mushrooms, Roasted white meat |
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Hermitage Rouge Nobles Rives 2000 |
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Cave de Tain l'Hermitage (France) | |
Grapes: Syrah | |
Price: € 48,70 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of black cherry, plum and black pepper followed by aromas of blueberry, blackberry, black currant, tobacco, vanilla, licorice and pleasing hints of chocolate. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with hints of black cherry, plum and blueberry. A well made wine. This Hermitage ages in barrique for 18 months. | |
Food Match: Braised and stewed meat with mushrooms, Roasted meat, Hard cheese |
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Greco di Tufo Devon 2002 |
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Antonio Caggiano (Italy) | |
Grapes: Greco Bianco | |
Price: € 20,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This wine shows a pale golden yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose denotes good personality with intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of plum and apple followed by good aromas of orange, hawthorn, broom, litchi, hazelnut, pear, ripe peach and pleasing hints of lavender. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however well balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum, apple and pear. A well made wine. Devon ages in cask for 3-4 months. | |
Food Match: Crustaceans, Broiled fish, Pasta and risotto with fish and vegetables |
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Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti 2000 |
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Antonio Caggiano (Italy) | |
Grapes: Aglianico | |
Price: € 40,00 | Score: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This Taurasi shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals personality with intense, clean, pleasing, elegant and refined aromas that start with good hints of blackberry, black cherry macerated in alcohol and violet followed by intense aromas of blueberry, plum, tobacco, licorice, vanilla, chocolate and pleasing hints of cinnamon, clover and menthol. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however well balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, powerful. The finish is very persistent with long and intense flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum. A great wine. This Taurasi ages in barrique for 12-18 months followed by 18 months of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Game, Braised and stewed meat, Roasted meat, Hard cheese |
San Leonardo: Vertical TastingWe had a vertical tasting of four recent vintages of the famous Tenuta San Leonardo's San Leonardo. A cult wine of extraordinary class and wonderful elegance, a genuine poetry of aromas and tastes which are repeated every year |
Class, class as well as superb class joined to a magnificent elegance. In these words it could be summarized the personality of San Leonardo, the renowned wine produced by Tenuta San Leonardo at Borghetto all'Adige, Trentino (Italy) and result of the blend of three wines, vinified and aged separately: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Tenuta San Leonardo, since many years at the top of Italian enology, and certainly of worldwide enology as well, is always distinguished for the choice of producing few types of wines but certainly of excellent quality. Among them San Leonardo every year obtains the highest awards and the appreciation of the ones who have the pleasure of tasting it. What particularly impresses of San Leonardo is its indisputable class and elegance, a sequence of intense and refined aromas which are noticed for their cleanness and harmony. Even the taste of this wine confirms and augment its magnificent class: an excellent balance, smooth and pleasing tannins that however contribute to the remarkable structure of this great wine. The 1995, the oldest of the four wines tasted, shows after 8 years, a pretty short period of time if compared to its potentialities, aromas and tastes that make this wine to be considered in its first stage of evolution, and certainly appreciable already. The 1996 is impressive for the richness of the many aromas, and just like the other ones, has an extraordinary elegance, harmony and cleanness. The 1997 too is wonderful, with its precise aromas and, first of all, with its extreme agreeability to the taste, smooth, round, caressing and absolutely balanced. Finally, the 1999, the youngest of the fours, seems to promise a superb evolution and aging, with its young four years convinces for the long sequence of elegant aromas and for its gustatory agreeability: a great wine of rare elegance. Another positive characteristic of the San Leonardos we tasted is their very long taste-olfactory persistence: a rare aspect that only few magnificent wines can have. Whether San Leonardo is a great wine is something everyone knows and the words that can be said - and that have been said already - about this wine are not enough to describe its magnificent class and elegance: an endless tale that only senses can tell.
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