Wine Culture and Information since 2002 - Volume 23 |
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SémillonMost of the times the name of this grape does not say anything to many, but once its most renowned wine is mentioned - Sauternes - for every wine lover becomes the synonym of great elegance, class and value |
Sauternes - the famous sweet wine produced in the homonymous Bordelais city - is considered by connoisseurs among the best sweet and botrytized wines of the world, however not anyone know that behind this famous wine is concealed Sémillon - a white berried grape not very common in the world - and which is responsible for a good part not only for Sauternes, but also for other similar wines of this area. Barsac and Monbazillac are just two examples of great sweet and botrytized wines produced with Sémillon, however - to tell the truth - the fame of these products is also because of the quality of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, frequently blended with Sémillon for the production of these wines. Despite Sémillon is the main component of the most renowned sweet wines of the world, its spreading in other countries has never been wide, and only in few other areas of the world acquired a certain importance in local viticulture, such as in case of Hunter Valley, Australia. Sémillon - usually written as Semillon in non Francophone countries - originated from the south-western area of France where until the end of 1960's represented the most cultivated white berried grape of the region. The territory in which this grape is currently most common is Bordeaux, in particular the areas of Graves, Sauternes, Barsac and Entre-Deux-Mers. In these areas Sémillon is frequently used for the production of wines together with Sauvignon Blanc, such as in case of Sauternes wines. This blend - which is not simply forced by the ampelographic conditions of the area - represents an ideal condition in order to have a good balance in these white wines. Sémillon does not have rich aromatic qualities and its acidity is pretty low, however it gives full bodied white wines with intense colors. In this sense Sauvignon Blanc seems to be its ideal and complementary companion, as it has a strong aromatic quality as well as a high acidity and generally gives light bodied wines. The result of the blending of these two grapes usually gives pretty interesting wines.
The qualities of Sémillon can be considered according to many aspects because of the use made in enology for the production of different wine styles. Besides the exception represented by the wines produced in the Hunter Valley - Australia - the use of Sémillon for the production of mono varietal wines gives products with pretty anonymous and light aromas. The use of cask - that Sémillon seems to accept pretty well - adds the classic tertiary aromas while giving the wine a longer life in the aging in bottle. In the production of dry table wines, the most interesting result is the one obtained by the blending with Sauvignon Blanc, a very frequent combination especially in the Bordeaux area and adopted in other countries as well. What makes Sémillon a prestigious nectar is its high sensitivity to the effects of Botrytis Cinerea - the famous noble rot - as its thin skin facilitates the penetration of this mushroom inside the berry. The result is magisterially represented by the best examples of the wines from Sauternes, Barsac and Monbazillac, styles of botrytized wines which are usually imitated in many parts of the world. According to a viticultural point of view, Sémillon is a grape which easily tends to overproduction, a characteristic which requires a scrupulous pruning and that however ensures copious harvests for the production of mediocre quality wines. Mature Sémillon berries generally have a deep golden yellow color which turns into an almost pink color when overripe, a quality which is responsible for the intense colors in its wines. Sémillon is a pretty simple grape to cultivate and it generally adapts itself in many types of soils, however the best results are obtained in clay and limestone as well as in marl and gravelly soils. Sémillon is particularly sensitive to the effects of Botrytis Cinerea, which can also represent a serious danger - in particular in the areas with unfavorable climate and meteorological conditions - as it easily tends to get rotten, however it is very resistant to all the other vine diseases. Sémillon is a grape with a modest content in acid and the alcohol level of its wines can be considered as medium-high. This characteristic is mainly found in warm climate areas in which is also added an appreciable structure. For this reason very good quality wines produced with plain Sémillon are pretty rare while justifying the typical use of this grape together with Sauvignon Blanc. The best examples of use of plain Sémillon are the ones from the Hunter Valley - Australia - as well as some sweet wines produced in the area of Sauternes, even though in most of the cases the composition of these renowned wines includes Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Wines produced with Sémillon grape certainly express their best qualities after a proper aging in bottle and - as opposed to the majority of white wines - it can also reach more than ten years, such as in case of Sémillon wines produced in the Hunter Valley. It is always advisable to allow quality table wines produced with Sémillon to age in bottle for at least four years. Longevity of sweet wines produced with this grape - such as Sauternes and Barsac - benefits from the higher quantity of sugar and therefore can also reach many tens of years.
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Wines produced with Sémillon - of any style - always show very intense and deep colors. When Sémillon grape reaches its optimal ripeness, the color of its skin gets deep golden hues, which will turn into evident pink nuances when overripe, just like for Gewürztraminer. The intense color is evident in white table wines and in particular in sweet wines which can also get dark and deep amber yellow colors with time. The colors of Sémillon wines can also get deeper hues in case they have been aged in cask, a pretty common practice as this grape is particularly well suited to this enological technique. Even the aging in bottle for table wines contributes to accentuate the golden yellow colors which can get - in some cases - amber nuances.
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Sémillon is a grape with low aromatic qualities, a characteristic which is mainly evident in mono varietal young wines. The secret for a good appreciation of Sémillon's aromas is represented by the time factor, as its light and almost anonymous aromas greatly change and get transformed into a complex and interesting wine. In wines produced with Sémillon cultivated in cool climate areas, or with not perfectly ripe grapes, can be perceived aromas directly resembling herbaceous qualities - such as mown grass, asparagus, pea and nettle - as well as aromatic qualities resembling lemon and gooseberry. In wines produced in warm climate areas, or with ripe grapes, will be perceived a more fruity character in which will be found aromas of apple, grapefruit and peach, as well as aromas of lanolin and wax, typical in Sémillon. The aging in cask - in Sémillon as well as in any other grape - will give to the wines the typical aromas of vanilla and toasted wood, while enriching - as a matter of fact and in the right balance - their aromatic personality. The best aromatic experience for Sémillon is the one offered by its sweet and botrytized wines, such as Sauternes, Barsac and Monbazillac. In these wines it will be possible to perceive aromas of wax, honey, toasted wood, raisin, dried apricot, yellow and white berried fruit jams, melon, citrus fruits, caramel and dried fruit in general, as well as the pleasing and characteristic aroma of Botrytis Cinerea. The aging of these wines will give with time - and in the best cases - very complex aromas such as musk and chocolate.
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Sémillon is a grape with a low acidity and a good content of sugar, therefore its wines will be characterized by a low acidity and an alcoholic percentage which can be defined as medium-high. Quality wines produced with this grape are also characterized by a full body, a quality which is usually and positively used in blending with Sauvignon Blanc - its most renowned and reliable companion - which in turn will efficiently contribute to increase acidity and to enrich the aromatic qualities. The structure of Sémillon wines is also increased by any possible aging in cask which contributes to make them smoother. Sweet wines produced with this grape are usually characterized by a full structure, almost viscous and thick, a quality which tends to accentuate with time.
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The area in which Sémillon is mainly cultivated and used for the production of wines is the area of Bordeaux and in particular Sauternes and Barsac. The most classic interpretation of the wines from this area is represented by the renowned sweet wines produced with grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea, in which the high sweetness must always be balanced with a proper acidity. For this reason, to Sauternes wines is added a certain quantity of Sauvignon Blanc, which also contributes to enrich the aromatic qualities together with Muscadelle. In the Bordelais area the production of dry table wines with Sémillon is particularly appreciable in the Graves area, although it should be observed in the blending of the best wines the percentage of Sauvignon Blanc is pretty high. Moreover, in the Bordeaux area are also produced sweet wines from Sémillon grape in the areas of Cérons, Loupiac, Ste-Croix-du-Mont and Cadillac. Another interesting French area for the production of Sémillon wines is found in the south-western area, and in particular in the appellations of Monbazillac and Saussignac. Sémillon is also present in modest quantities in Italy, and in particular in the Montecarlo DOC area, in Tuscany. Outside the European borders, the best results are the ones obtained in Australia and in particular in the Hunter Valley. The wines from this area are produced with plain Sémillon and they probably are to be considered as the best examples of dry table wines. Wines from Hunter Valley generally requires ten years of aging in order to express their best organoleptic qualities. In Australia the Sémillon is also cultivated in the Barossa Valley and in Western Australia. Sémillon is also found - in modest quantities - in New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina, Chile, Canada and California.
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Wines of the Month |
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Score legend Fair Pretty Good Good Very Good Excellent Wine that excels in its category Good value wine Prices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the country or the shop where wines are bought |
Canneto 2001 |
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D'Angelo (Italy) | |
Grapes: Aglianico | |
Price: € 18.00 | Score: |
The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of plum and black cherry followed by aromas of blueberry, violet, vanilla, licorice, cinnamon and menthol. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum, blueberry and black cherry. Canneto ages for 18 months in barrique followed by 8 months of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Broiled meat and barbecue, Stewed meat, Hard cheese |
Aglianico del Vulture Donato D'Angelo 2001 |
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D'Angelo (Italy) | |
Grapes: Aglianico | |
Price: € 18.00 | Score: |
This Aglianico shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry, blueberry and plum followed by aromas of blackberry, violet, vanilla, licorice, eucalyptus, cocoa and pink pepper. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. A well made wine. This Aglianico ages for 18 months in barrique followed by 8 months of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Game, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese |
Brindisi Rosso Vigna Flaminio 2001 |
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Vallone (Italy) | |
Grapes: Negroamaro (70%), Montepulciano (20%), Malvasia Nera (10%) | |
Price: € 6.50 | Score: |
The wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry, blueberry and plum followed by aromas of raspberry, cyclamen, licorice, blackberry, violet and vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry. This wine ages for 8 months in cask. | |
Food Match: Broiled meat, Stewed meat with mushrooms |
Salice Salentino Rosso Vereto 2001 |
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Vallone (Italy) | |
Grapes: Negroamaro (90%), Malvasia Nera (10%) | |
Price: € 6.50 | Score: |
This wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry, blackberry and carob followed by aromas of licorice, menthol, plum, dried violet, leather and vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and pleasing smoothness, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum and black cherry. This Salice Salentino ages for 8 months in cask. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Stewed meat with mushrooms, Hard cheese |
Passito 2000 |
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Col Sandago (Italy) | |
Grapes: Prosecco | |
Price: € 20.00 - 50cl | Score: |
The wine shows a pale amber yellow color and nuances of golden yellow, transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of citrus fruit peel and date followed by aromas of dried apricot, quince jam, dried fig, lavender, almond, honey and vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a sweet attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of date, honey and quince jam. This wine is produced with dried Prosecco grapes and ages for about 20 months in cask. | |
Food Match: Dried fruits desserts, Confectionery, Hard and piquant cheese |
Camoi 2000 |
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Col Sandago (Italy) | |
Grapes: Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Cabernet Franc (20%) | |
Price: € 18.00 | Score: |
Camoi shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry, plum and black currant followed by aromas of vanilla, bell pepper, cocoa, eucalyptus, licorice and mace. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and black currant. A well made wine. Camoi ages for 16 months in cask followed by at least 6 months of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese |
Alto Adige Chardonnay Salt 2003 |
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Erste & Neue (Italy) | |
Grapes: Chardonnay | |
Price: € 6.70 | Score: |
The wine shows a brilliant golden yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints oh hawthorn, apple and pear followed by aromas of pineapple, broom, plum and hints of mineral. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced, good body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of pineapple, pear and apple. This Chardonnay ages in steel tanks. | |
Food Match: Fish and crustaceans appetizers, Fried fish, Sauteed fish, Pasta and risotto with fish and crustaceans |
Alto Adige Sauvignon Stern 2003 |
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Erste & Neue (Italy) | |
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc | |
Price: € 9.50 | Score: |
The wine shows a brilliant straw yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of peach and pear followed by aromas of grape, elder, hawthorn, banana, broom, litchi and hints of mineral. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of peach, pear and litchi. This Sauvignon Blanc ages in steel tanks. | |
Food Match: Fish and crustaceans appetizers, Pasta and risotto with fish and vegetables |
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Soma 2003 |
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Chiusa Grande (Italy) | |
Grapes: Trebbiano d'Abruzzo | |
Price: € 5.00 | Score: |
The wine shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of hawthorn, pear and apple followed by aromas of lemon, broom and plum. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, light body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of apple and pear. | |
Food Match: Aperitifs, Vegetables appetizers, Dairy products, Pasta and risotto with vegetables and crustaceans |
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Perla Nera 2000 |
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Chiusa Grande (Italy) | |
Grapes: Montepulciano | |
Price: € 12.00 | Score: |
The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of plum, blackberry and black cherry followed by aromas of licorice, violet, tobacco, vanilla, white pepper, chocolate, eucalyptus and mace. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however well balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. A well made wine. This Montepulciano ages for 18 months in barrique. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Game, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese |
Barbera d'Asti Superiore Vigna delle Rose 2001 |
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Franco Mondo (Italy) | |
Grapes: Barbera | |
Price: € 10.00 | Score: |
This wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry, blackberry and plum followed by aromas of blueberry, licorice, carob, dried violet and hints of vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. This Barbera ages for some months in barrique. | |
Food Match: Broiled meat and barbecue, Roasted meat, Hard cheese |
Piemonte Moscato Passito Sileo 2001 |
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Franco Mondo (Italia) | |
Grapes: Muscat Blanc | |
Price: € 16.00 - 500ml | Score: |
This wine shows a brilliant amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of raisin and fig jam followed by aromas of candied fruit, apricot jam, quince jam, peach jam, date, almond, lavender, citrus fruits peel, honey, Orange marmalade and vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a sweet and smooth attack, however well balanced, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of raisin, peach jam, honey and fig jam. A well made wine. Sileo ferments in barrique. | |
Food Match: Confectionery, Fruit tarts, Hard and piquant cheese |
Brunello di Montalcino 2000 |
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Argiano (Italy) | |
Grapes: Sangiovese Grosso | |
Price: € 33.50 | Score: |
This Brunello shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black cherry, plum and dried violet followed by aromas of blueberry jam, raspberry jam, vanilla, tobacco, licorice, menthol and cocoa. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry jam. This Brunello di Montalcino ages for 12 months in barrique followed by 12 months of aging in cask. | |
Food Match: Game, Braised and stewed meat, Roasted meat, Hard cheese |
Solengo 2002 |
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Argiano (Italia) | |
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah | |
Price: € 62.50 | Score: |
Solengo shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of black cherry, black currant and plum followed by aromas of blackberry, blueberry jam, toasted wood, vanilla, tobacco, licorice, eucalyptus, chocolate and black pepper. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is very persistent with flavors of black currant, black cherry, plum and blackberry. A well made wine. Solengo ages for 14 months in barrique. | |
Food Match: Game, Braised and stewed meat, Roasted meat, Hard cheese |
Aphrodisium 2004 |
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Casale del Giglio (Italy) | |
Grapes: Viognier, Fiano, Greco Bianco, Petit Manseng | |
Price: € 21.50 - 500ml | Score: |
The wine shows a pale golden yellow color and nuances of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of grape, candied fruit, citrus fruits peel followed by aromas of apricot, banana, date, litchi, vanilla, honey, pear and almond. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a sweet and smooth attack with pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of grape, pear and banana. A well made wine. Aphrodisium ferments in barrique. | |
Food Match: Fruit tarts, Hard cheese |
Colli Orientali del Friuli Rosazzo Bianco Ronco delle Acacie 2001 |
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Le Vigne di Zamò (Italy) | |
Grapes: Chardonnay, Tocai Friulano, Pinot Blanc | |
Price: € 17.00 | Score: |
The wine shows an intense straw yellow color and nuances of golden yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of apple, hawthorn and ripe peach followed by aromas of pineapple, banana, almond, hazelnut, honey, plum and vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and pleasing smoothness, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of plum, almond and apple. A well made wine. Ronco delle Acacie ages in cask for 9-10 months followed by 14 months of aging in bottle. | |
Food Match: Fish and mushrooms soups, Stuffed pasta, Roasted fish, Roasted white meat |
Colli Orientali del Friuli Rosso Ronco dei Roseti 2000 |
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Le Vigne di Zamò (Italy) | |
Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Schioppettino | |
Price: € 24.00 | Score: |
This wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of black currant, black cherry and plum followed by aromas of blueberry, vanilla, tobacco, licorice, eucalyptus, cocoa, cinnamon, pink pepper and hints of bell pepper. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavors, good tannins, agreeable. The finish is persistent with flavors of black cherry, black currant and plum. A well made wine. Ronco dei Roseti ages in barrique for 15-18 months followed by 5 months of aging in cask. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Game, Braised and stewed meat, Hard cheese |
Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Spiegelleiten 2004 |
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Kössler (Italy) | |
Grapes: Pinot Blanc | |
Price: € 5.95 | Score: |
This wine shows a brilliant greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean and pleasing aromas which start with hints of hawthorn, apple and pear followed by aromas of citrus fruits, pear, plum and hints of hop. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a crisp attack and however balanced by alcohol, light body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of pear, apple and pineapple. This Pinot Blanc ages in steel tanks. | |
Food Match: Dairy products, Vegetables appetizers, Pasta and risotto with vegetables |
Alto Adige Pinot Noir 2000 |
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Kössler (Italy) | |
Grapes: Pinot Noir | |
Price: € 9.80 | Score: |
This wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with hints of cherry, raspberry and plum followed by aromas of blueberry, strawberry jam, licorice, violet and vanilla. In the mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack and pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, good body, intense flavors, good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavors of cherry, raspberry and plum. This Pinot Noir ages for 12 months in barrique. | |
Food Match: Roasted meat, Stewed meat with mushrooms, Broiled meat and barbecue |
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