Among the many letters we receive from our readers, we are frequently asked
about our opinion concerning the same subjects and, despite we cannot reply to
each of them, in case the subject becomes frequent, the best way to answer
everyone is by means of our pages. It is right the frequent subject found in
many letter which suggested us to cover it in this issue's editorial. The
subject is - in its nature - pretty simple, however the answer which can be
given are many and each case must certainly be considered accordingly. Since
many months, many readers keep on asking us our opinion about the frequent
presence of some grapes in most of red wines. In particular Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot, even in case they have nothing to do with the wine history of some
places, most of the times radically changing the nature and the tradition of
many wines.
Indeed, by considering the grapes used for the production of many red wines, the
recurrent and insistent presence of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is pretty
high. The introduction of these grapes has also been done in those areas in
which wine was traditionally made with other grapes since ever. Moreover, they
were recognized new appellation areas in which these grapes are used alone for
the production of mono varietal wines. This latter case - undoubtedly - has
nothing to do with the traditions of those places, with the exception - of
course - of French areas from which these grapes are from. For example, if we
consider Italy - the country for which our readers mainly rise their criticisms
- Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are frequently added in variable quantities to
the classic - and certainly excellent - typical red grapes of the many regions,
such as Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Nero d'Avola and Montepulciano, as to mention some
examples.
Why are these grapes so widely used in the production of red wines as to
change the secular traditions of many places and - in many cases - by
completely replacing them? If we do not consider traditional reasons - evidently
excluded in this case - and by considering the goal of producers is also selling
wine, we could consider commercial reasons only. However, if we carefully
evaluate this problem, it is clear the solution is not exclusively found in
commercial issues only, but also in cultural, fashion and interests matters.
Let's consider everything from the beginning by premising something important.
It is undeniable Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have both proven their enological
value and the quality of their wines in many occasions. Therefore this is not -
and it cannot be - a war against these two grapes as every good connoisseur
understands their indisputable value. Maybe is it because of these indisputable
values they are believed to work miracles in the production of wines, by
transforming a mediocre wine into a divine nectar?
By seeing the frequency with which these grapes are being used in wines, this
could also be the case. Let's consider this issue from another point of view
instead. Organoleptic qualities of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are so easily
recognizable which is pretty hard not to notice them in a wine. Moreover, their
organoleptic qualities are also pleasing, easy and immediate to
understand. Merlot, with its roundness and its pleasing aromas, is undoubtedly
capable of making a harsh wine smoother and more agreeable, as
well as Cabernet Sauvignon can give a certain organoleptic importance to
many wines. These qualities do not require attention or competence in order to
be appreciated, therefore the wines produced with these grapes meet the taste
and the favor of a wide number of consumers. Of course, we are just
generalizing. We truly understand there are many Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
wines with a remarkable organoleptic complexity requiring all the attention -
and pleasure - of a taster.
If it is true Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are more acceptable and
preferred by consumers, this also explains the commercial reason: these wines
are more easily sold. A simple and practical rule of marketing which easily
ensures profits: it is being produced what it can be sold. This is a logic -
according to the producer's point of view, who undoubtedly makes wine for
passion as well - which is unexceptionable. How many examples could be mentioned
about wines that, before providential adding of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon,
were almost unknown and not very considered by consumers and have then
experienced a sudden notoriety and appreciation? We are sure every reader who
sent a mail about this subject knows at least one name of such a wine. However,
the subject is worth of more consideration, which can also be cause of concern
and of which we cannot certainly be happy. If it is true the organoleptic
qualities of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - pretty typical and evident - are
found in many wines, how strong is the danger of making wines all alike?
According to our opinion - and maybe the opinion of our readers as well - this
danger is pretty high.
Anyway, we cannot complain about this that much, because if these wines meet the
favor and the taste of consumers, this means most of wine lovers ask and look
for such wines. A wine which is not sold would not be produced anymore, as it
has always happened to many wines - even glorious - which have seen the end of
their story or have undergone appropriate corrections. If consumers ask
for easy and immediate wines, therefore the problem is also
cultural, as well as about laziness and scarce interest to explore less obvious
wines and with organoleptic qualities requiring higher attention. It is also
appropriate to remember that in case a wine is good and well made - despite the
grapes used for its production - it should be considered for what it really
expresses. However it is undeniable this trend will lead to a sort of
homologation in wines - all the same, all alike - a perspective for which it is
hard to be happy for, or at least, it does not make us happy. That's why we
believe the solution must basically come from wine lovers and consumers. Without
denying Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - once again, we fully understand their
high and undeniable value - we should be more attentive and open to any wine, by
approaching the glass with the complete and humble intention of listening
to its history, its character and its personality.
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