In the beginning, they were sweet, dense and syrupy, so that they were diluted
with water before drinking. Later, came out dry ones as well as lively
ones with cheerful effervescence. Then, the happy bubbles became famous and
considered as noble, becoming a fashion and sign of high class. In their
beginning, they were sweet, then dry. Therefore, after having overcome a period
of less interest, it was the time of barrique - or better, a way to use the
barrique - and the fashion of being similar to wood at all costs, a
fashion which today tends to become less and less popular, but that still has
its followers. The taste of wine changes. As it occurs in the nature of the
development of habits and fashions concerning human beings, the same is for wine
which - against its will - follows this rule, too. If in ancient times, wine
has to have a sweet taste to be good - sometimes a little sour as well - today
this rule does not have the same kind of approval. Likewise, it is also true
that - being highly probable - the wines produced at the time of ancient Greeks
and Romans, would not satisfy our taste at all.
The contrary - of course - is also true as well: it is pretty hard ancient
Greeks and Romans could share the enthusiasm we have today for dry wines - with
a full body and complexity - with evident hints of wood. Times, fashions and
tastes change. And time, which inexorably goes by, will introduce - for sure -
new tastes and new fashions in the world of wine. Should we have a
crystal ball, we could predict the future of the taste of wine, but frankly, we
prefer the idea of waiting and see this new surprise. After all, who could
ever bet - 30 years ago - that in later times would become famous and
appreciated wines with strong organoleptic qualities of wood? If we look back in
time, trying to remember the facts of those periods, the first pioneers,
who tried to introduce barrique in the vinification process, were banned - in a
sense - from the world of enology, as they were considered crazy and even
responsible for a cultural massacre against wine.
But if we see how things are today, these figures are today considered the
fathers of the new and modern enology, taken as reference and model for their
wines and - although most of them are still alive - they also conquered a place
of honor in the history of enology. Whether they were also responsible for
imposing a certain taste of wine among consumers, it is pretty difficult
to say as well as being not very sustainable. Responsible for the introduction
of a new fashion in wine it is more likely probable, but - after all -
consumers are the ones who determine the success or the failure of a fashion.
Commercial and speculative factors certainly play a fundamental role, but in
case fashion should be mostly based on these presuppositions, it would disappear
in a short time. Anyway, the taste of wines with wood flavors is still
alive and frequently looked for by consumers, a sign that it is not only a
matter of fashion, but also a matter of having met - like to say -
the taste of our times.
Defining the taste of wine is something hard to explain, especially for the fact
that wine represents something absolutely personal to everyone and with which
everyone have a personal relationship. Saying the taste of wine - or anyway the
wine, in every aspect and for everything it may mean - must have specific
qualities in order to be good, it is something that belongs more to
presumption and arrogance than to reality. For many people, a good wine could be
white and pretty crisp, for others it could be, on the contrary, red and
robust. Anyway, there are certain reference models with which it
is possible to form a specific image of the taste of wine, which can be
objectively considered as good by most of consumers, in other words, a
wine statistically good. Producers are of course aware of these
statistics and on them they widely base the taste and the style of their
wines.
However, statistics cannot guarantee a stable success, because consumers
- obeying to the nature of human beings - continuously change their tastes and
preferences. An example for all is the so loved-hated barrique, precious
enological tool which - since always or at least in the last years - has been
subject of many arguments, both good and bad. Some years ago, barrique was in
fact seen as an essential tool for the production of high quality wines. Today,
instead, many producers tend to use it less and less, getting back to the use of
large casks. A trend confirmed also from what the consumers express about their
taste and there are many who believe producers make today an excessive use of
barrique in their wines. Paradoxically, some years ago, many consumers would
have preferred producers to use the barrique more. It will be the abuse of
barrique - exasperated also from trendy and commercial factors - to change the
opinion of consumers. Today, they say the organoleptic qualities of barrique
influence too much on the taste of wine.
Probably, this is also the sign the taste of wine is changing again and today
the trend is to prefer a wine expressing the qualities of grapes instead.
There are more and more people who have a preference for wines, also being
robust and complex, but substantially offering aromas and tastes of flowers and
fruits, both to the nose and to the palate. Is the era of wines with wood
nuances over? Of course not, also because wood has been and it will be a factor
of primary importance in the production of many wines. Although it is difficult
to predict, it could happen in the next years that wines, uniquely made in inert
containers - such as steel tanks - can conquer a dominant position in consumers'
preferences and tastes. What we can tell today about the taste of wine - by
considering the opinions of consumers - is that there are many to prefer crisp
and fruity white wines and robust and complex red wines, in which barrique, or
in any case wood, is not excessively intrusive. This seems to be the new
direction taken from producers, certainly in their interest, but - obviously -
in the interest of our taste, too.
|