Celery, that is Apium Graveolens, belongs to the family of
Apiaceae, is a herbaceous biennial plant, with a cylindrical root in the
cultivated varieties, whereas in wild varieties the root has a thin shape.
Flowers are in the form of umbel, are made of about one hundred white-greenish
flowers. Celery belongs to the same family of parsley and fennel. During the
first year, from the root are generated leaves only, during the second year are
developed ribs with flowers which can also reach one meter in height. Lower
leaves have a long stem which expand to the base, wild plants have trilobed
leaves, whereas cultivated varieties have pentalobed ones. Flowers are grouped
in umbels at the end of branches. The calyx is very small, corolla is made from
five white petals. Fruits are made of two achenes, close one to each other in a
flat surface.
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| Found in every country of the world, celery
is a common ingredient in many dishes |
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The plant of celery requires a lot of water, in fact, wild celery grows in
humid, marshy and wild places only, in particular near the sea. The taste and
the aroma of wild celery is not so pleasing. As opposed to wild varieties,
cultivated celery has a good taste and a good aroma. Coming from Europe
originally, where it is being cultivated since the seventeenth century, celery
is now common in every region with a tempered climate. Today celery grows in
most of the European territory, in Northern Africa, in Asia and in Southern
America. The term celery comes from the Greek selion, mentioned in
the books of Homer as crown for athletes. Greeks used to cultivate celery for
the medical properties of its seeds, however they did not use it in cooking, as
they believed it was a sacrilege. Homer mentioned it as a divine plant, whereas
Achilles healed his horse thanks to the properties of celery.
Since past times, celery was used both as a food and as a medicinal plant. From
June to July, and every two years, in Nemea took place Nemean games, an event
which, from 573 BC on, became a Panhellenic festival and winners were given a
crown made of wild celery. In Corinth, during Isthmian Games, in 581 BC, in
honor of Poseidon and Palaemon gods, winners were given a plant of celery.
Plutarch described celery as a plant sacred to the Great Mother used in
occasion of funeral ceremonies and consumed raw as an aphrodisiac. At those
times it was believed a rib of celery boiled in nights of full moon and then
applied to the skin of men and women, was useful for strengthening erotic
charge, whereas in case a celery rib was placed in a bed, it was useful for
strengthening love between a couple. The culture of that time strongly believed
celery had aphrodisiac effects, and when a person gave some celery pith to a
person of the opposite sex, this was considered as an explicit invitation of
mating.
Selinunte (Selinos in Greek, Selinus in Latin) was an ancient
Greek city located in the South-Western area of Sicily: the name of the city
derived from the wild celery settlers found there in abundant quantities. It
seems Selinunte, at that time, was one of the most important places for the
production and trading of celery. A plant of celery was also represented in the
coins of the city. Hippocrates (460 BC - 377 BC), father of medicine, wrote «if
your nerves are upset, celery will be your healing and remedy». Ancient Romans
widely used celery in cooking, both for its unmistakable aroma as well as they
believed it was a good remedy against the effects of alcohol. During Roman
banquets was not rare to see commensals with celery crowns on their heads. In
Middle Age celery played a very important role for the lives of European people,
in particular for its medical properties. Hildegard of Bingen (1098-1179), also
known as Saint Hildegard, benedictine mystics and religious, founder of Bingen
monastery, used celery as a remedy against depression.
Michele Savonarola (Padua, 1385-1466), one of the most famous physicians and
humanists of the thirteenth century, discouraged women to the consumption of
celery as it was believed to be a sexual stimulant even for those who wanted to
stay chaste. The first information about the use of celery in cooking are dated
back to 1623. In France, in 1700s at the court of Marquise de Pompadour, celery
became very common as an erotic stimulant. In the 1800s its qualities were
emphasized by the famous French gastronomer Alexandre Balthazar Laurente Grimod
de la Reynière (Paris 1759-1837). The most common use of celery today is
cooking, virtually found in every country of the world. It is consumed fresh and
raw with olive oil, with cheeses, as a side dish, or used to give flavors to
soups and stocks, as well as for the preparation of sauces. Celery is also used,
together with carrot and onion, for the preparation of classic soffritto
all'Italiana, base for many recipes in Italian cooking. In past times celery
was cultivated in marshy areas, today, thanks to irrigation techniques,
cultivation is possible in every type of soil.
In order to make cultivation of celery profitable, today are used hybrid
varieties, in order to ensure a higher yield and constant over time, as well as
obtaining more and more resistant varieties. The result of this selection has
allowed the cultivation of particularly productive varieties, such as
giant golden celery of Castelnuovo Scrivia, in province of Alessandria,
Italy. This variety of celery has large ribs, tender and aromatic, and can reach
60 centimeters in height. The type of soil is very important for the cultivation
of celery, this must be fine and deep in order to allow a proper development of
roots and a good availability of phosphor and potassium. Because of the
considerable need of water, celery must be cultivated in a well irrigated soil.
Harvesting is usually done by hand, with a preliminary selection and then a
second one, in which celery is washed, in order to remove any residual, and part
of the leaves are removed as they are not used in cooking.
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