For wine producers, as well as for the lovers of the beverage of Bacchus, the
object put at the top of bottle's neck and sealing it, with the purpose of
keeping intact its precious content until the moment it will be poured on a
glass, seems to be still today a crucial matter. A critical matter, cause of
endless polemics as well as endless prejudices. Of course, we are talking about
cork, that small cylinder traditionally made of the homonymous material that
with its presence reassures consumers about the quality of wine, as if it were
more important than the content of the bottle. It's no use denying this: despite
many years have passed since the introduction of alternative closures, there is
still today a strong prejudice about their use. And not only from consumers:
even producers seem to be sensible to this subject, most of the times for
traditional and cultural matters, as well as of proud, instead of technical
reasons.
There is one point in which we do agree on: cork closure certainly is more
attracting and romantic than a cold cylinder made of synthetic material.
Aesthetic and sentimental matters apart, we should also keep on mind cork
closure however hides an insidious danger that - in a second - it is capable of
destroying the magic of a moment: the annoying cork taint. This fault is
produced by the Armillaria mellea fungus - a parasite of cork tree and in
case it develops in a cork closure, it produces a chemical compound with the not
reassuring name 2,4,6-trichloroanisole - TCA, in short - and responsible for the
disgusting smell and taste. Industries involved in the production of cork
closures try to limit the development of this fungus by adopting specific
treatments, however its presence is hardly detectable and one realizes about its
presence only when the damage has been done and it is then too late. A
damage not to be taken lightly as the estimates of bottles damaged by cork taint
is about 7%, with peaks of 15%.
For the sake of truth, it should be said each one has his or her own sensitivity
to the perception of trichloroanisole - and this is true for any other aroma -
therefore it is likely the fault perceived by one person is completely unnoticed
by others. Moreover, it should be said our olfactory system tends to get used to
this smell in a relatively short time: at each smell in the glass the aroma will
be less and less perceptible in function of the quantity present in the wine.
Lesser the quantity, faster the sensation of its vanishing from the glass. Many
solutions have been proposed to the problem, only few of them really working.
All currently believe preventing cork taint is impossible. To tell the
truth, the solutions have been proposed many years ago, but the appreciation of
consumers and producers was not the best. The idea consists in simply replacing
the cork closure with another one made of different material, not only of
synthetic type.
Many years have passed since the introduction of synthetic closures as an
alternative to cork closure, introduction which was welcomed, in particular from
consumers, with a negative appreciation. Wines which used them were considered
as lesser wines, products of lesser quality which did not deserve the honor of
natural cork closure. For many consumers the view of a closure made from a
material different than cork, immediately disqualified the wine. Indeed, the
synthetic cylindrical closure, similar to the ones made of cork, were not the
first ones to be used in wine bottles. The screw cap, for example, was used by
wineries many years before, used for one or two liters bottles and destined to a
mass consumption for wines of mediocre and low quality. Maybe it is the memory
of those wines, which were not certainly appreciated for their quality -
produced by wineries oriented to quantity production only - if the view of
closures made of synthetic materials still today evokes in many consumers the
idea of bad wine.
Not only synthetic closures, not only screw caps: in the past years have been
proposed many alternative solutions to cork closures. From glass closures to
synthetic closures with valves capable of allowing the passage of small
quantity of air, today the possibilities of replacing the cork closure in
bottles are really many. The analysis of the wine contained in bottles sealed
with alternative closures, by means of tasting and reliable tests, have proven
quality is not lesser than wines sealed with cork closures. Today many
producers have made the choice of adopting the use of alternative closures even
in their best and most celebrated products. The figures of some years ago
suggested wines kept in bottles sealed with closures made from a material
different than cork, had a life of about 18 months. After this period, the
effects of the lack of exchange of oxygen would have inexorably brought the end
of wine.
Eighteen months are however a sufficient time for keeping all those wines
destined to immediate consumption, that is not destined to the aging in bottle.
In this case the consumer will be certain that, at the opening of the bottle,
will not find the annoying cork taint. Some producers who make use of
alternative closures since many years, however say this period is longer than 18
months: many say that after many years these wines are still drinkable and well
kept. Despite of that, it is however undeniable alternative closures are not
well accepted by consumers, although their acceptability has strongly improved
in the last few years. Maybe it was because of information, or even by the fact
it is the quality of wine - either good or bad - to tell the truth and it is
more convincing than any closure or label. Quality cork closures, the ones
usually used for wines to be aged in bottle, have a pretty high cost, not always
justified in wines destined to an immediate consumption. Cork closure is
charming and romantic - still today irreplaceable in certain cases - however, I
have no doubt about this, a good synthetic closure is always better than a bad
quality agglomerated cork closure.
Antonello Biancalana
|