Sometime ago I had the chance, just like many other times, to visit a winery and
to engage the owner in conversation on the wine, the way he makes it, about wine
making and viticultural choices, the way he commercializes the fruits of the
vineyard. It is always very interesting to visit wineries - and in particular
vineyards - to watch the soil, to enjoy the view and how the vine expresses
itself in that specific context. We talk about territory, to understand it
before meeting it in the glass, of the relationship between the producer and his
land and grapes, of the vision about making wine. Very interesting and amazing
subjects indeed, full of the passion of a job and an ancient culture renewing
with the arrive of every new season. We taste wine, drawing young wine off from
tanks and casks, sometimes a baby wine, immature and unripe however full of
wonderful promises. We uncork bottles, filling one glass after another, talking,
smelling, talking and discussing, expressing opinions and ideas, all around
wine, that wine.
A subject strictly connected to wine, at least for the ones who make it and made
a business of it - which legitimately requires to earn profits - is
commercialization. We talk about prices, they ask opinions about the price one
is willing to pay for that or the other bottle. We also talk about how
positioning a wine in the market and how to communicate that wine to consumers.
Once wrongly considered as a marginal factor by many, today even small and
modest producers understand the fundamental strategy of communication in order
to be successful. And communication is not about what you write in promotional
materials, in promotional brochures and folders or labels, in
other words, the kind of clothes you choose for dressing up a wine. It
seems a marginal factor, nevertheless, it most of the times determines the
success of the work of a whole year.
After some bottles, this producer shows me what is considered among the most
representative wines he makes: uncorks the bottle and pours some of the content
on my glass. I watch the glass, I smell it and then I taste it, continuously
observed by the producer who tries to catch my reactions and my movements in
order to understand my opinion about the wine. «So, what do you think about this
wine?» he asks me. «Very good, like always. Here the 2006 gives an even more
charming elegance», is my answer. He proudly smiles and soon after he becomes
serious again: «Well, as opposed to the past, this year I am having a lot of
problems in selling this wine». Maybe it is because of the crisis of these years
- I think - or maybe he changed his distributor and maybe he is not as good as
the previous one. He confirms crisis does not help at all and the distributor
did not change as well. He confesses he changed the bottle, a need in
consequence of the renewal of the bottling line.
Some may probably think this producers began to bottle his very good wine in
bottles with a screwcap or other alternative closures, therefore abandoning
cork. This is not the case: the cork is still there. What has changed is the
type of bottle. This wine has been bottled for many years in a Bordelais
bottle, the one technically defined as tall and distinguished from the regular
Bordelais for being taller of about two centimeters and, generally, having a
thicker glass. For the rest, nothing has changed at all: same label, same cork,
same capsule, same price. «How could it be possible bottling a wine to a regular
Bordelais bottle has caused a drop in sales?» - I ask him - «there must
certainly be more than this». The producer sadly shrugs his shoulders and says
this is what happened and what his distributor told him, these were the
impressions of clients, restaurateurs and wine shops.
Popular wisdom reminds us that you don't not judge the book by its cover,
nevertheless in this case seems the cover has made the book. We certainly live
in quite bizarre times, our society has given appearance an exaggerated and
exasperated value, by tragically eliminating merit. And this is true for wine
too, there is no doubt about it. By seeing a tall and impressive bottle you
think about a wine of better quality; a shorter bottle makes you think about
lesser wine and or lesser value. After all, not even to mention, it is what the
producer put in the bottle to make a wine great, not how the bottle looks like.
What happened to this producer is not however a singular case. I heard many
times the regrets of producers who experienced a drop in sales after having
changed an aesthetical or functional detail of the bottle.
Of course similar changes do not always mean a substantial negative change in
sales, but it is however interesting to notice this kind of reaction in
consumers. For the sake of truth, there also are producers who had an increase
in sales of a wine, even in a significant way, after having changed the label or
the bottle. Whereas it is understandable the change of the label may be cause of
confusion in consumers, the height of a bottle - not its shape - should be less
confusing. Changing a detail in the dress of a specific wine does not
confuse or keep faithful consumers away: they buy that wine for the content of
the bottle and not for how it was presented in the shelf. It is also true a
bottle, by itself, when showed in the shelf of a shop, must compete with all the
other ones in order to get the preference of a consumer. And you know, the eye
has its ways for getting caught, anyway being attracted only by how a bottle
looks like is not a quite good way.
Antonello Biancalana
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