Italy is a great Country, in particular if we consider it for its food
resources, its art, culture, history, monuments and traditions. The ones who
preceded us, also thanks to the privilege mother Nature gave to our land and to
the genius of our people, have left magnificent evidences, very high and noble
examples of civilization and culture. High and noble examples which had the
power of influencing and changing the course of things and history even in
Europe and in the world. We could think about the many artistic expressions the
children of our Country have expressed in past centuries, as well as cultural
and social examples which had strongly marked the history of humanity in the
past centuries. Indisputable marks having, still today, the same power, the
same beauty, the same unchanged and deep culture. An immense wealth that, for
better or worse, has been passed to us with the moral responsibility of keeping
it and passing to the wealth of posterity.
The Italians of our times - it seems so evident to me - are not that aware of
this responsibility and the wealth they should keep, something our ancestors
wanted to give us as a priceless gift. It is very difficult to find another
place in the world having so many historical and artistic examples, they are so
many we sometimes end up considering them obvious and normal, a habit like
many others, while forgetting it is a unique and unrepeatable wealth. We are
aware of them when we go abroad in order to support our vanity and praise our
identity of Italians. When we then get back home, we ignore them, indeed, we do
not care than much about our wealth and some of them - and this is a truly sad
tragedy - because of our carelessness run the risk of being lost forever.
Only in that very moment we show a certain disappointment, we show a rage and a
pride of convenience only when it is too late to do something. In case there is
a remedy, the price to be paid is usually very high, and in that case it is
always someone or something else's fault. As you make your bed, so you
must lie in it, a famous wise saying tells us.
Many of you are probably wondering what all this has to do with wine. Besides
the fact also wine - our wine - undeniably is a cultural wealth of this
Country, for many aspects its history is not so different from the rest of our
unique resources. Our wealth, according to an ampelographic and wine making
point of view, to say the least, is impressive and rich, like no other place in
the world. I am not saying, of course, Italian wine is the best in the world
because, I strongly believe this, every wine country has something unique and
unrepeatable to give. This is true for wine, cooking and every other aspect of
culture and tradition of every place in the world, with no exception. After
all, it is said difference is a remarkable value and this is undoubtedly true
for wine as well.
According to Italian Registro Nazionale delle Varietà di Vite (National
Registger of Grape Varieties), which can also be browsed in the WEB site of
Italian Ministry of Agriculture, the number of grape varieties found in our
Country is currently 475. Four-hundred and seventy-five! This number, must be
said, includes all the varieties cultivated in our Country, therefore it is the
sum of autochthonous and allochthonous grapes, that is the so called
international varieties. It is a huge wealth, an extraordinary richness
generously distributed all over the territory, in every region, in every place.
What makes this condition even more incredible is that every region, every
place, has autochthonous varieties and, most of the times, they are found in
those lands only. It should be said, for the sake of truth, in every region are
however found many of the international varieties and most of the times they
are vinified with the autochthonous ones.
The ampelographic wealth of Italy makes me think to what is happening to the
huge historical, artistic and cultural wealth of our Country. These grapes - in
particular the autochthonous varieties - are found in our Country since a very
long time and they have been ignored for long, even denied, and in many
occasions they seriously ran the risk of disappearing forever. For a long time
this wealth has been ignored in favor of international varieties, believed to
be better - and many of them certainly are magnificent grapes - as if the
secret of a quality wine was the grape. It took enlightened and obstinate
figures who, in an absolute revolutionary way, have believed in what their
lands have always given. Some Italian varieties are today considered remarkable
wine making glory even worldwide, others are still waiting to be reevaluated
and understood, small pearls waiting to be shined in order to show all of
their splendor.
After all, this is something already happened in the past and writing a list of
the Italian autochthonous varieties which reached the top of the Olympus of
Bacchus would be pretty long. The famous Latin saying nemo profeta in
patria (No one is a prophet in his own country) - seems to be appropriate in
this case - suggests there are still many autochthonous varieties waiting to be
understood and reevaluated for their wine making quality. Four-hundred and
seventy-five varieties are many and most of them may have extraordinary stories
to tell, by letting them express that dignity many other of them have already
expressed thanks to talented vintners. Times have changed, there is no doubt
about this, and if we once believed international grapes were the solution,
today this role is mainly played by autochthonous grapes. With a unique and
strong certainty: the ampelographic wealth of Italy is an extraordinary
richness deserving to be reevaluated and understood. Understood, first of all.
Antonello Biancalana
|