The number of autochthonous wine grapes of Italy has no equal in any other
country of the world. The enological beauty of Bel Paese is also
expressed by this particular characteristic allowing every region of Italy to
have at least one indigenous variety. An invaluable richness allowing this
country to offer a remarkable number of wines, different territorial
expressions in which each grape can offer a unique character. Of course this
does not mean each autochthonous grape is capable of making quality
wines - and the same is true for territories - it is however true this
characteristic makes Italy a unique wine land of the world. It is not by
chance, in fact, when ancient Greeks arrived to these lands, they called Italy
Enotria Tellus. Land of wine but also of grapes - many grapes - already
present and common at the times of Magna Graecia.
Ancient Greeks, it should be said, introduced many grapes to the lands which
will then become Italy, and the influence of Hellenic people in wine making
and viticulture of this country is still today evident in the names of many
grapes. The grapes of our tasting by contrast of this month are very important
representatives of the huge heritage of Italian autochthonous varieties:
Garganega and Vermentino. The former variety - Garganega - is the grape which
undeniably marked the rebirth of one of the most famous Italian white wines:
Soave. Vermentinno is the protagonist of many white wines of Sardinia, however
it also plays an important role in Liguria and Tuscany. The presence of these
grapes is also found in other regions of Italy - although marginally - whereas
Vermentino is also cultivated in France and Corse.
Garganega is the most important white berried grape of Verona and Vicenza
provinces, the main grape of Soave and Gambellara wines. In particular, in
Soave territory, Garganega is responsible of the rebirth of white wines of this
area, giving them a better personality, elegance and finesse. The origins of
Garganega are not clear, however it is believed its presence in this land is
evidently dated back to remote times, as well as believing it was introduced to
this territory by Etruscans. Pietro de' Crescenzi, the famous writer and
agronomist of the 1200s, mentioned Garganega in his book and, even at those
times, this grape was praised for the production of sweet wines. On this
regard, it is believed Garganega was used by Rhaetian people for the making of
their sweet wines, also mentioned by Pliny the Elder, whom, among the many
things, supported the idea Rhaetian people were of Etruscan origins.
Garganega is still today one of the most prestigious grapes and having a good
versatility, protagonist of white and sweet wines of remarkable elegance. The
famous white berried grape of Veneto is the main variety of Soave and Recioto
di Soave, and today it is the main grape used for these wines, most of the
times it is the only one. With time, Garganega has in fact replaced the other
varieties provided for the production of these wines, in particular Trebbiano
di Soave, and today most producers tends to use it alone. The same can be said
for Gambellara wines, in which Garganega is used alone both for dry and sweet
wines of the territory. This grape is mainly found in Veneto, however it is
also marginally found in other regions of Italy, such as Umbria and Lombardy.
The best expression of Garganega is however found in the provinces of Verona
and Vicenza, both for white wines and sweet wines produced with dried grapes.
The origins of Vermentino seem to be clearer. The origin of this great white
variety is to be found in Spain, more likely in Portugal, it was then
introduced to the lands of France, therefore to the Italian territory.
Vermentino is particularly common in Sardinia, introduced here from the
neighboring Corse, and it is today the most common white berried grape of the
island. From Sardinia Vermentino has been then spread to Liguria and therefore
Tuscany, regions in which this white grape is still today widely common.
Moreover, it is believed some autochthonous varieties, such as Pigato, Rollo
and Favorita, are indeed similar to Vermentino and, therefore, it is the same
grape. The same consideration is true for the so called Vermentino di Gallura
and Vermentino di Alghero, both cultivated in Sardinia and both representing
the same variety.
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The color of
Vermentino. The greenish yellow nuance is clearly evident. | |
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Vermentino expresses different characters in the three lands in which it is
mainly found: Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany. In Sardinia Vermentino generally
makes wines of good body and complexity, whereas in Liguria gives wines of more
refined elegance of aromas and a weaker body. In Tuscany Vermentino seems to
express quite different characters, while keeping both elegance of aromas and
good body. Sardinia is today considered the main land of Vermentino and wines
produced with this grape are recognized as Denominazione d'Origine
Controllata in the whole territory of the island. The most prestigious
expression certainly is Vermentino di Gallura - recognized as DOCG
(Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita) - having a pretty
strong personality while expressing good elegance. Vermentino is however a
versatile grape, in particular in Sardinia where it is used for the production
of sparkling and dry wines, as well as sweet wines from dried grapes.
The wines of our tasting by contrast will be chosen from the areas of Soave, in
Veneto, and Gallura, in Sardinia. Specifically, as for Garganega, we will
choose a Soave Superiore, whereas for the other variety our choice will be
about a Vermentino di Gallura. In both cases, we should consider the respective
production disciplinary provides for the use of different varieties of the
territory, it is therefore indispensable our wines will be made with 100% of
the respective grapes. This is particularly important for Soave Superiore, as
production disciplinary provides for a minimum Garganega of 70%. We will
choose wines belonging to the latest vintage as we need young wines capable of
expressing the character of the respective grapes. Production technique is
important as well, we therefore make sure both wines are produced in steel
tanks. The samples of our tasting will be served at the temperature of 10 °C
(50 °F) and poured in tasting glasses.
Let's pour both wines in glasses and start the evaluation of appearance from
Vermentino di Gallura. Let's tilt the glass over a white surface - for this
purpose is enough a simple sheet of paper - and observe the wine at the base
of the glass. It will be observed an intense and brilliant straw yellow color
and a very high transparency, something easily predictable. We will not in fact
have any problem in recognizing the details of an object put between the glass
and the white surface. Nuances of color, observed at the edge of the wine
towards the opening of the glass, shows a greenish yellow hue. Let's now
observe the appearance of Garganega expressed by Soave Superiore wine. At the
base of the glass will be observed an intense straw yellow color, sometimes
tending to golden yellow, with a transparency - also in this case - very high.
Nuances of Garganega confirm its color, showing a straw yellow hue tending to
golden yellow.
Aromatic profiles of Garganega and Vermentino have some common characteristics
as well as substantial differences, they however give the nose of the taster a
character of elegant personality. Both varieties are mainly characterized by
their aromas of white pulp fruits, in particular apple and pear. The aromatic
profile of Vermentino, in general terms, expresses qualities directly recalling
citrus fruits - in particular lemon - with a character, like to say, crisper
than Garganega. The white berried grape of Veneto is characterized, among the
other things, by a typical aroma of almond, a quality which can be perceived
both in its dry and in sweet wines made from dried grapes. In both varieties
are found sensations recalling tropical fruits, in particular pineapple, and
aromas recalling flowers mainly express hawthorn and broom.
Let's now pass to aroma evaluation of the two grapes of our tasting by
contrast. We will start from Vermentino di Gallura, by holding the glass in
vertical position and without swirling. Let's do our first smell in order to
evaluate opening aromas. From the glass will be perceived aromas of apple, pear
and hawthorn, intense and well perceptible. Let's now swirl the glass - in
order to favor the development of the other aromas - and do a second smell.
From the glass will be perceived the characteristic aroma of lemon to which
follows broom, plum, peach, pineapple and a hint of almond. Let's now pass to
the evaluation of Garganega's aromas expressed by Soave Superiore. The opening
of this wine gives the nose of the taster aromas of apple, broom and pear, as
well as the characteristic almond aroma. After having swirled the glass, the
olfactory profile is completed by hawthorn, peach, plum, pineapple and apricot.
In Garganega can also be sometimes perceived the aroma of honey.
Gustatory qualities of Vermentino and Garganega are characterized by pretty
evident differences, in particular structure. Both varieties make wines with a
pretty high alcohol by volume - it is not rare to have wines having 13% of
alcohol - a characteristic clearly affecting the gustatory profile. In the
attack of Vermentino di Gallura can be appreciated an evident crispness, given
by acidity, a quality making this wine very agreeable. It will be noticed the
contribution of alcohol in the balance of wines, as well as the good
correspondence to the nose, in particular apple, pear and pineapple. Let's now
take a sip of Soave Superiore. The attack of Garganega is characterized by a
rounder crispness than Vermentino and, in general terms, a more robust
structure. Also in this wine alcohol plays an evident role in the balance,
something also contributing to increase roundness, clearly stronger than
Vermentino. Correspondence to the nose is very good and we can perceive
apple, pear and peach.
Let's finish our tasting by contrast with the evaluation of final sensations
the two wines leave in the mouth after having been swallowed. Vermentino and
Garganega make wines of interesting characteristics leaving in the mouth
sensation of very good quality. The finish of Vermentino di Gallura has good
persistence and in the mouth can be perceived - after having swallowed the wine
- pleasing and clean flavors of apple, pear, pineapple and lemon. Final
sensations left in the mouth by Soave Superiore's Garganega are interesting as
well. The persistence of this wine is very good and in the mouth can be
perceived flavors of apple, pear, plum and the characteristic bitter hint of
almond. As opposed to Vermentino, in Garganega can be perceived the sensation
of a more robust structure while crispness given by acidity seems to be lower
than Vermentino. Both grapes can certainly be considered excellent, capable of
making great white wines, of remarkable personality and quality.
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