Montefalco Sagrantino undoubtedly is one of my favorite wines. I said this many
times, also in these pages, and I say it again. It is not only about the love I
have for the wines of my land - Umbria - Sagrantino is a wine I started pouring
in my glass since the half of the 1980s. Montefalco Sagrantino, there is no
doubt about this, has changed quite a lot in the course of time, it has
certainly grown up and it walked a very long way while conquering important
successes. In all of this time, as Montefalco Sagrantino became more and more
famous, also the number of producers committed to the production of this wine
have grown up as well, a positive aspect for sure. Montefalco Sagrantino,
besides being powerful and rich in personality, is capable of expressing
elegance, something it clearly gets with time. Robust and powerful grape - no
variety in the world has the same content in tannins and polyphenols -
Sagrantino is like a majestic horse needing a skilled and talented jockey
in order to win the race in all of its glory.
In the course of years, producers of Montefalco Sagrantino have understood the
value of time and how it can be effective in making a difference, precious
ally in order to tame the power of tannins and - at the same time - give
more elegance and sensorial complexity. If there is a grape and a wine which
can benefit from time, Montefalco Sagrantino certainly is one of them. Some
producers - as opposed to what the production disciplinary and the market
requires - prefer leaving their Sagrantino wines in the cellar for a longer
time in order to give the senses of wine lovers a higher complexity and
elegance. An agreeable choice, despite it is obvious this unavoidably affects
both costs and final price of bottle. The solution could be buying bottles of
Montefalco Sagrantino and, in case your personal cellar lets you do so, keep
them for some years in order to let them age before enjoying them. This is what
I personally do with the great Montefalco Sagrantino as I am aware of the fact
time will be capable of reward my waiting.
The magic time gives Montefalco Sagrantino has established an even stronger and
significant connection thanks to a wine recently released to the market. The
winery which made this new magic is Arnaldo Caprai - with no doubt the most
famous and celebrated winery of this territory - the wine is Montefalco
Sagrantino Spinning Beauty 2006. Yes, you read it right: vintage two thousand
and six, released to the market in 2016 after having spent eight years in
barrique and the rest in bottle. Arnaldo Caprai winery, of course, does not
need much presentation: successfully run by the determined Marco Caprai,
it undoubtedly is the winery which contributed to the rebirth and development
of Sagrantino. After having scientifically and rigorously studied the past and
present of Sagrantino - with the help and support of the University of Milan -
Arnaldo Caprai winery starts today a new and amazing chapter in Montefalco
Sagrantino history.
The contribution Arnaldo Caprai winery gave Sagrantino and viticulture of
Montefalco is both impressive and fundamental, in particular, the scientific
and technical contribution to the understanding of characteristics and
potentials of the great Umbrian red. Marco Caprai, in fact, did not leave
anything to chance, adopting since the very beginning a reliable and verifiable
research approach, calling to Montefalco qualified and authoritative experts
and scientists, therefore contributing to the development of Sagrantino and the
whole territory of Montefalco. The result of those researches and
experimentation - something that, after many years, are still in progress -
have allowed the identification and classification of many Sagrantino clones,
some of them included in the Registro Nazionale delle Varietà di Vite,
the official Italian directory of wine vines. On this regard, are mentioned the
famous Sagrantino clones I - UniMi - Caprai - 25 Anni, I - UniMi -
Caprai - Cobra and I - UniMi - Caprai - Collepiano. Last but not the
least, the singular white Sagrantino, a clone still subject of experimentation
and further research.
Then they recently released this Montefalco Sagrantino Spinning Beauty 2006. I
knew about this wine since many months now, because Marco Caprai himself and
some of his collaborators talked to me about this new Sagrantino. Then, in
occasion of an informal event at Arnaldo Caprai winery, I finally had
the chance to taste this Spinning Beauty 2006. I understand since the first
smell what I had in my glass is a Sagrantino amazingly different from any other
one I tasted before, a wine capable of writing a new and important chapter in
the history of Montefalco. I ask Marco Caprai why he wanted to make a
Sagrantino aged for such a long time in wood. The answer - clear and simple -
does not deny the innovative spirit of research and experimentation which have
always led Marco Caprai and his winery for the understanding and development of
the potentials of both Sagrantino and Montefalco. Marco Caprai wanted, with
this magnificent Spinning Beauty, to give birth to a wine capable of
challenging, both in quality and prestige, the other great wines of the world
aged for many years before being released.
Moreover, Marco Caprai said this wine style - aged in wood for many years - is
scarcely considered in Italy, while believing Sagrantino is capable of
challenging this enterprise and certainly becoming a protagonist in this
category. By considering the result, of undeniable and monumental greatness, we
can only say he is right. Montefalco Sagrantino Spinning Beauty 2006 is made
with the famous Cobra clone, harvested in the most ancient vineyard of the
estate Monte della Torre and aged for eight years in barrique. The result
is of an absolutely impressive greatness: the power of Sagrantino meeting an
impressive sensorial complexity wearing a robe of supreme elegance and class.
Tasting Montefalco Sagrantino Spinning Beauty 2006 gives the impression, since
the first smell, to have in the glass a special and inimitable wine, a
masterpiece expressing a sumptuous symphony of aromas, absolutely perfect. With
this magnificent wine, Arnaldo Caprai winery undoubtedly marks a new,
surprising and extraordinary story of Sagrantino, one of the many they were
capable of writing in the course of the years. An extraordinary beauty. A wine
expressing the most sublime beauty: that of great Sagrantino and the renewed
miracle happening since many years in Umbria in the hills of Montefalco.
Antonello Biancalana
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