Every time they ask me what is the grape or wine I like the most – I admit
it – it is always very hard to give an answer. Of course, it is not for the
fact I do not have a favorite grape or wine, indeed for the simple fact it is
not just one. The preference, in fact, depends on many conditions and factors
as, for this reason, I would not always choose the same grape or wine just
because it is my favorite one. Each one of them can in fact become
the favorite one depending on the occasion, a less favorite one in other
occasions, clearly not a favorite one in other more. There are – of course –
grapes and wines I consider to be my favorite ones in absolute terms, it
is however hard, at least for me, to tell which one of them is in the top place
of my personal list. I have a huge passion, for example, for Marsala, Jerez,
Porto, Nebbiolo – in all of its expressions – Sagrantino, Verdicchio, Fiano
and Pinot Noir. The list is however, unavoidably and on purpose, incomplete,
clearly in a very short and essential form.
In any case, among these grapes – and therefore wines – Pinot Noir has a very
special place in my preferences. Elegant, refined, versatile and majestic. But
also difficult, complicated, demanding and selective. Very selective. Pinot
Noir, in fact, is – so to speak – a grape and a wine which is not within the
reach of everyone and everything. Difficult grape, very difficult, starting
from territory and climate, Pinot Noir certainly does not have the capacity
of adaptation which is typical in other varieties. Cultivating Pinot Noir in
viticultural and climatic conditions not perfectly suitable to it,
inevitably means making a mediocre and disappointing wine, something that
– unfortunately – frequently happens in wines produced with this grape. Pinot
Noir, in being so strictly demanding, is not satisfied only by a suitable
environmental and climatic condition. It requires, last but not the least, a
great interpreter capable of revealing all of its greatness. Even in this
case, it is not a grape for everyone: Pinot Noir is rigorous, selective and
demanding. Very demanding.
Finding a wine made with Pinot Noir – any style – capable of surprising and,
so to speak, leaving an indelible mark, is certainly not simple. This is
something notoriously difficult, but when you find one, everything else
suddenly becomes insignificant and disappears from your mind. The magic of
Pinot Noir is clearly unique and is expressed in different ways according to
how it is used in wine making, something that – evidently – is true for every
grape. The red Burgundian grape is capable of expressing results of amazing and
absolute level, especially in two styles of wines: red and sparkling classic
method, that is refermented in bottle. The primary references, in both cases,
are inevitably French – homeland of Pinot Noir – for both red and classic
method sparkling wines. Burgundy and Champagne are in fact the reference
territories for their respective styles, not so easy to get the same level in
other areas.
It is not just a matter of taste or patriotism: some Pinot Noir wines produced
in Burgundy and Blanc de Noirs from Champagne, hardly find worthy
competitors of equal level. I am aware – for what I have just expressed –
many will not agree, even accusing me of xenophilia. For me – in any case –
the good is good anyway, it has neither a flag nor nationality. If it is good
and has quality, this is enough for me for appreciating it. This applies – for
me, of course – to wine as much as to people, cultures, food, art and any
expression of intelligence and culture. After all, difference is a great wealth
when you understand the opportunity to listen to it. Pinot Noir is
– and has always been – among the grapes for which I have a huge interest and
passion. Whether it is a red wine or classic method sparkling wine – possibly
refined in bottle on its lees for a long time – the red Burgundian grape, in
its best interpretations, is always capable of giving great pleasure and
satisfaction.
Pinot Noir is in any case a bizarre variety and does not like certain extreme
or acrobatic wine making techniques, in particular, the excessive use of
cask and barrique. It in fact takes little to ruin the elegance of Pinot Noir
by fermenting and aging it in barrels with an excessive impact. What is
obtained is a flat wine and evidently too robust for the grace of the
aromas and balance of Pinot Noir's acidity. Provided, of course, you have
properly cultivated it in vineyard, because all good wine – no matter the
variety – originates from the vineyard and how man cultivates it. Pinot Noir
is in fact a very demanding grape and if you force it to grow up in an
unsuitable territory, it is so touchy that it makes fun of those who
make it by giving a mediocre wine and lacking in elegance. Of course, I'm not
saying Pinot Noir is not suitable for the aging in cask. The difference, of
course, is how it is used and what impact it is given or imposed to the wine.
The cask in Pinot Noir, when properly used, is certainly useful and increases
its elegance, something they known very well in Burgundy.
Not to mention the bubbles produced with Pinot Noir, of course, those made with
the classic method, possibly with a long aging in bottle before disgorging. Of
course, I don't want to deny the other grapes, in particular Chardonnay, but
the touch of refinement and elegance Pinot Noir gives classic method sparkling
wines is amazing. Not to mention structure: the presence of Pinot Noir is also
very noticeable in this sensorial aspect. What a great grape is, Pinot Noir.
Elegance and complexity of aromas, acidity opposed to the right astringency,
class – a lot – an explosion of crispness, aromas and flavors, it is
difficult to find a grape capable of similar magic. What a great grape is Pinot
Noir. So demanding from vineyard to wine making, capable of giving all of its
best only to a great interpreter capable of understanding and making it express
the way it really is, without plagiarizing or overloading it with inappropriate
wine making techniques. What a great grape and great wine is Pinot Noir,
despite the difficulty of finding bottles capable of expressing its
magnificence. But when you find one – ladies and gentlemen – enjoy the show
of the senses, unique and unrepeatable. Pinot Noir: yes, please!
Antonello Biancalana
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