The relationship Italy and the Italians have with wine is notoriously solid and
deep: a love lasting for over two thousand years now and in the many
expressions of private, social, formal and ritual life. Wine consumption in
Italy evidently depends on factors, so to speak, of customs and
fads, something concerning not only the preference of specific styles of
wine but also of different beverages. Wine undeniably is the national drink of
Italy, however this role in recent years has been undermined by other drinks,
in particular beer. This is due to the interest the beverage of Ceres has
received in recent years, in particular the so-called craft production
which, undeniably, has contributed to a greater awareness and definition of
beer quality. The phenomenon of the production of the so-called craft
beer, it must be said, is particularly active in Italy and has evidently been
able to shift part of the attention for wine towards this drink.
Beer has not obviously been the only cause leading to a decrease in wine
consumption in Italy. It will be remembered, in fact, the law concerning the
lowering of blood alcohol content for driving vehicles, a measure that has
evidently favored the consumption of drinks with a lower alcohol volume, such
as beer. Wine has been, so to speak, a victim of this law because – in fact –
the intake of just one glass of wine could, in some cases, exceed the minimum
limit of the admitted blood alcohol content. Of course, the measure that in
theory should discourage driving when someone is in a state of drunkenness is
acceptable, but it is undeniable this has led to a contraction in wine
consumption in Italy. The same happened to spirits and liquors although it
should be noticed the difference regarding the attitude and the mode of
consumption between wine and spirits.
In this regard, it is undeniable beer had a better luck because, in general
terms, it is characterized by an average alcohol volume of 5%, much lower
– less than half – when compared to the average alcohol content of wine. This
change in consumer preferences – in a sense, legally imposed – is still
evident today by observing, in general terms, what can be seen in restaurant
tables. Until recent times, the presence of a bottle of wine, as well as the
simple carafe of the wine of the house was very common in most
restaurant tables. Today, although bottles and carafes of wine can still be
seen, the presence of sparkling and foaming glasses of draft beer, with some
timid presence of bottled beers, is clearly more common than in the past. The
legitimate concern to exceed the limit allowed by the law on blood alcohol
content has undoubtedly influenced the choices of clients in restaurants and
wine bars, it has evidently contributed to the decrease in consumption of wine.
According to the news spread by Coldiretti (an Italian Association of Farmers),
in recent years in Italy there has been a change of consumption trends, which
has seen wine to be again in the preferences of Italians. In fact, Coldiretti
informs that in the last five years there has been an increase in wine
consumption of 8%. This figure, among the other things, ranks Italy in the
third place in the world among the countries where there is the highest
consumption, standing at 22.6 hectoliters in 2017. Only in the United States of
America and in France there is a consumption greater than Italy: respectively
32.7 million hectoliters and a growth of 5.7%; 27 million with a 2.8% drop in
the last five years. In regard to the increase in consumption expressed in
percentages, in the last five years only China has been able to do better than
Italy, recording an increase of 8.2%, while attesting its internal consumption
to 17.9 million hectoliters: a significant value considering most of the
wine consumed in China is imported.
It must also be said not all the wine produced in Italy – of course – is
destined for internal consumption: the share of sales abroad represents a
fundamental and essential part of the budget for each winery. In this regard,
Coldiretti informs «Wine is the first product of agri-food exports and it is no
coincidence the turnover achieved abroad now exceeds the one at national level».
By considering the values produced by the Italian wine production, Coldiretti
notes that in Italy 310,000 farms are dedicated to grape harvesting and
almost 46,000 of them are also involved in wine making, with an area destined
to vine growing equal to 652,000 hectares. Italian wine production – according
to Coldiretti – generates a value of 10.6 billion euros, of which the majority
derive from sales abroad. Moreover, wine in Italy ensures the employment of
1.3 million people from the vineyard to the winery, as well as to commercial
distribution, activities and services related to wine.
In the last five years, apparently and in general terms, the relationship
Italians have with wine has also changed, as it seems they tend to favor
quality and conscious consumption. It must be noted that, although wine cannot
be excluded from these considerations, those who decide to abuse alcohol
consumption generally choose other alcoholic beverages. This is also clearly
because of the cultural change affecting wine in the last twenty years, a
period in which – there is no doubt – the communication and press have been
particularly focused on the beverage of Bacchus, also emphasizing the value of
the territory and the uniqueness of what is produced by the vineyard.
Undeniably, wine has got an élite role, losing its previous identity as
a beverage–food, a fundamental element of the culture and tradition of the
tables of the peoples of the Mediterranean. It is undeniably good to know wine
is regaining its historic dominance among Italians' preferences. Moreover, in
case this is also associated to conscious and critical consumption favoring
quality, we are certainly happy for this. Long live the wine!
Antonello Biancalana
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