Writing about my favorite grapes and wines is something I already did in the
past. It is never easy – in these cases – to express an absolute and
definitive position because, to tell the truth, there are so many wines and
grapes I consider as favorite ones. Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Sagrantino,
Verdicchio, Fiano, Sauvignon Blanc, Marsala – and the list would be rather
long – they are just a small part of what I like to pour into my very personal
glass. In the list of my favorites there are, of course, also the grapes and
wines of my land – Umbria – a constant presence for me that has always filled
my glasses. I therefore add Grechetto, Trebbiano Spoletino, the aforementioned
Sagrantino, the emerging and recently rediscovered Grero, in addition to
the grape that was definitely the protagonist before the unstoppable success of
the red grape from Montefalco: Sangiovese. It is not, and this is something
well-known to anyone, a variety of Umbrian origin – to tell the truth, it was
introduced in this region in relatively recent times – however present in the
vineyards of the green heart of Italy.
Grape of extraordinary personality, Sangiovese gives life to great wines of
enormous and proven class and elegance, also thanks to its vast presence in the
Italian territory. It should be noted that, his Majesty Sangiovese, is
virtually present in almost all Italian regions, in fact, it is among the main
grapes grown in the Bel Paese. The magnificence and charm of Sangiovese
is not limited to Italy only: this great red grape is in fact also found in
other wine-making countries of the world, giving birth to interesting
enological interpretations. Talking about Sangiovese unmistakably means
referring to the great wines of Tuscany – Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti and
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, just to name a few – however it is also capable
of producing wine excellence in other Italian regions as well. The sons of
Sangiovese can always be recognized in the glasses, even in those cases, so to
speak, humble and modest.
It is not easy to talk about Sangiovese as a unique variety, as it is an
extremely prolific grape in terms of clones, a differentiation that is the
result of both its long history and the adaptation processes, occurred over
time, in the different territories where it is cultivated. Talking, therefore,
about the expression of Sangiovese within a territory, also means considering
the relative clone. In fact, we must note the enormous sensorial differences
uniting and dividing at the same time the many wines from Sangiovese produced
in Italy. It is not just a matter of regional differences, but, above all,
territorial ones with strong changes occurring even in vineyards a few
kilometers away one from each other. In fact, it is very likely the differences
are mainly determined by the type of clone and not only by the territory and
its microclimate. In general terms, in fact, it does not make much sense to
compare, for example, a Brunello di Montalcino to a Romagna Sangiovese
Superiore: two very different wines, however excellent, and not only for
geographical reasons.
Sangiovese is a grape of huge versatility, capable of giving a noble
personality to its wines. One of the qualities I like about Sangiovese, is the
pleasant acidity which is always perceived in its wines: not only capable of
giving balance, but, above all, a touch of noble elegance. A grape not exactly
rich in coloring substances – it must be said, a rather variable quality
depending on the clone – Sangiovese produces wines with a sensation of
moderate astringency, just another touch of elegance. As for the
capability of producing alcohol, Sangiovese can be very generous, however
– thanks to its pleasant acidity and moderate astringency – its wines reach a
perfect balance, even when vinified in inert containers. In fact, these
Sangiovese wines can be enjoyed for their immediacy, the frank and direct
character of the great Italian red grape, making even the simplest style
both rich and expressive.
Moreover, Sangiovese is well suited for the vinification in wood – both in
large cask and in barrique – something that has been known for a long time and
many are the wines obtained from this grape and produced in this way. It is in
fact enough to think about Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti, Vino Nobile di
Montepulciano, as well as many other Sangiovese wines produced in Italy, to
have a minimal list of the style produced in cask. Even in these cases,
Sangiovese fully expresses its elegant personality, in which it is always
perceived its characteristic crispness given by acidity. The vinification of
Sangiovese in wood, moreover, increases both structure and astringency, also
giving – according to time – a pleasant roundness which tends to balance its
crispness. The vinification of Sangiovese in cask is, in any case, an operation
requiring a certain skill – something true for any other wine, after
all – as the excessive impact of wood tends to cover the aromas of flowers and
red fruits of this grape. A fatal mistake that would transform the aromatic
elegance of Sangiovese into a joke of carpentry.
Sangiovese is capable of making other wonders as well. This magnificent red
grape, in fact, is also used for the production of sweet wines – such as the
charming Occhio di Pernice produced in Montepulciano – as well as white and
sparkling wines. These styles, it must be said, represent a small part of the
vast production of red wines produced with Sangiovese, however, even in these
cases, it does not fail to prove its elegance and personality. The charm and
finesse of Occhio di Pernice represent a magnificent tribute to the greatness
of Sangiovese also in sweet style from dried grapes. What about the
relationship between Sangiovese and time? When properly vinified for this
purpose, wines produced with Sangiovese are capable of challenging time even
for dozens of years, while developing an enormous complexity without ever
losing elegance. Finally, accommodating and welcoming, Sangiovese can be
successfully blended to other grapes to give life to new wine making
interpretations of great class. A grape with a divine soul, a magnificent
interpreter of divine wines. Long live the king Sangiovese!
Antonello Biancalana
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