Let's try to restart, to regain a minimum of normal life, to resume our
habits, our lives. Of course, it won't happen in a moment or in a few days. The
resumption of normality – whatever that means for each of us – will be
a gradual process dependent on factors that, at this moment, cannot be told or
foreseen. Little by little, with time we will resume doing what we have always
done even if there are many who say we will do it in a totally different way.
Maybe it will be – or it will seem – different at the beginning of the
recovery, we will probably need a very long time to restore what has
characterized our lives until a few months ago. After all, history and human
events teach us that at the end of any catastrophic event it takes a long time
to recover from the consequences, however – history also teaches us this – it
could actually represent an opportunity to progress and improve.
In this moment – while I am writing these words – in Italy the measures
defining the so-called phase 2 are being adopted and they should guarantee
a progressive, albeit cautious, recovery of productive and social activities.
Even the world of wine tries to restart, looking to the immediate future which
is coming to life in the vineyards, trying to understand what harvest 2020 will
be like. The restart will obviously receive concrete help from the concomitant
reopening of bars and restaurants, although with very heavy impositions both in
the number of potential customers to be served, and in the huge economic
investments made to guarantee safety. In this regard, it should be noted that
– because of the security measures they must adopt – many restaurants and
bars have decided to not reopen because the costs needed for the equipment and
measures do not justify the potential profit.
The reopening of restaurants, although in a limited way, can contribute in part
to the recovery of the wine market. Until recently, in fact, restaurants were
only allowed to do home delivery and takeaway. In these two activities,
although they may guarantee restaurants a profit, so to speak, of
suffered survival, it was rather unlikely the sale also included wine.
With the reopening of the restaurants, however, it is very likely wine is
included in the table's order. This will certainly not restore the necessary
momentum for the recovery of the wine market, but – there is no doubt about
this – it is definitely better than nothing. Although it is very unlikely
restaurants will be assaulted by clients, this is however a good sign
and, in these days, the good news is definitely a pleasure and welcome. Of
course, it will not be like we used to go to restaurants a few months ago: the
preventive and safety measures imposed on restaurants do not encourage the
typical sociability of the banquet, however, at this moment, it is essential to
give top priority to prevention and to people's health.
It is, in any case, a temporary situation of transition,
in the hope that
– soon – conditions will allow a more human lifestyle. In any case, it is
a step forward and it will certainly bring benefits to both the restaurant and
wine business, although – at this moment – it is difficult to make any
estimate or forecast. What will the future of the wine market be? More
precisely: what will be the future world of wine in general terms? A question
which, inevitably, must be answered quickly as harvesting will take place in a
few months. In this regard, we can already predict 2020 vintage will not be
abundant like the previous ones. It is quite likely, in fact, that in
the Italian vineyards – not least, in the European ones – will be made an
extensive use of the so-called green harvesting, with the aim of limiting
production. This practice, in fact, consists in the thinning in the vineyards,
that is the elimination of part of the bunches with the consequent reduction of
the yields.
It must be considered, in fact, all the wineries are facing the not simple
problem of unsold bottles and thinking about producing new wine without having
sold the previous vintage, makes the situation even harder. The preventive
measures and the consequent block of the production activities occurred, in
fact, just right when wineries were ready for the marketing of the wines of
2019 vintage. All this undeniably put wineries in an extremely critical
condition, both in economic and logistical terms. The situation is so complex
and, in some respects, indeterminable, that many support the idea of ??a
radical change in commercial and marketing methods. A change that will also
affect many other production sectors and, among these, wine. It is not easy, at
this moment, to exactly understand how this will change – providing it will
ever change – as the whole socio-sanitary situation is still rather uncertain
and fragile.
With the change in the commercial methods of wine, communication and promotion
will probably change as well: maybe we will be forced to adapt and devise new
forms of communication. These are assumptions, of course, and – who knows –
in the near future things will return like they were before or perhaps the new
measures adopted in this period will join the canonical ones. We have
already noticed an evident sign of how wine trade is changing. This is not a
real novelty, rather, a more frequent use, imposed by the current condition,
and which in some respects has ensured a minimal survival to wine:
e-commerce. Fortunately, the people forced to stay at home did not give up on a
glass of wine and, apparently, sales
through the Internet recorded a
significant increase. It could become the main way to buy wine in the coming
months, or perhaps years, certainly a commercial possibility that will further
get consolidated and become a custom and not only for wine lovers. It is
difficult now to make any prediction as the present also seems to be rather
uncertain. However, we can all do something – now – for wine and for that
important commercial sector that has always sold it. Let's go to the
restaurant, possibly in good company, and enjoy – as much as possible – that
pleasure we have given up on for too long. Let's also order a good bottle of
wine, raise the glasses and make a toast, an auspicious one: we all deserve it.
Antonello Biancalana
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