It is difficult, in this period, to talk about anything other than the
planetary situation determined by the Covid-19 pandemic. Furthermore, it is
difficult to separate wine from this subject as it is, like all other
productive and economic sectors, strongly affected by its effects. It seems
difficult, in fact, in the current state of things, to make predictions because
of the general uncertainty we are going through and the only certainty we have
are facts, what they produce and have produced in recent months. We are forced
to navigate on sight, with not exactly encouraging market results, although
there are clear signs of recovery, however not enough to recover the losses. We
certainly must start over from somewhere and, as the effects of the pandemic
have obviously not altered the cycle of the seasons, the vines in vineyards are
now about to give the new bunches of grapes, ready to be harvested.
In some parts of Italy, as a matter of fact, harvesting has started some weeks
ago, especially in the areas where sparkling wines are produced and in many
southern regions. In the time when part of the wine of vintage 2019 has already
taken its way to the distillery in order to obtain alcohol to be used for the
production of disinfectant gel – a product, unfortunately, in great demand in
this period – it is also the time to start a new chapter and in which we all
are having high hopes for the immediate future. Two thousand and twenty has
definitely been, to say the least, a nefarious year for wine: it started
with the protectionist measures of duties by the United States of America and
which caused a lot of troubles for the wine market, then – as if all that was
not enough – has been declared the Covid-19 pandemic, inflicting another and
very heavy blow to wine economy and related activities.
It is clearly too early to make any reliable prediction, as the harvesting
period in Italy may also last for over three months – in some cases, in fact,
the grapes are harvested even in November – however, the news coming from
the regions that have already started harvesting seem to be encouraging. In
particular, as already mentioned, from the southern regions of Italy and in the
areas committed to the production of sparkling wines. At the moment we can of
course make a preliminary estimate only as, in any case, the quality of which
we can talk about now is the presumed one obtained by the observation of the
ripening grapes and which, apparently, seems to be very good in all Italy. All
this, of course, hoping Mother Nature will spare us from unwelcome surprises by
means of negative weather events that whoever is working in the agriculture
knows very well to be an unpredictable and constant risk.
In general terms, it should be said the constant presence of the sun and the
sultry temperatures which characterized July and August seem to have
accelerated – something easily predictable – the ripening of the grapes, thus
anticipating the start of harvesting. In particular, in addition to the grapes
typically used for the production of sparkling wines, the harvesting operations
in this summer months have mainly involved Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and, in
general terms, white grape varieties. The first remarks coming from producers,
talk about a very high quality of the grapes although there is a decrease in
quantitative terms compared to 2019. The decrease in quantity, in any case,
does not seem to excessively worry the wineries which, we should not forget
that, still have the non so trivial problem of selling last year's wines in the
market. In any case, the supposed – and hopefully, confirmed – quality of the
grapes of 2020 harvest is certainly excellent news giving us good hopes for the
near future.
It is impossible, in fact, to forget or not to consider the negative effects of
the pandemic on the wine economy, with huge drops in sales, especially in the
important share represented by exports. Regarding vintage 2020, it is expected
a production of 45 million hectoliters, with a decrease of about 5% compared
to 2019. This decrease is largely due to the containment measures adopted
during the so-called lockdown and which provided, in fact, for a
lowering of yields in the vineyards. Harvesting 2020, despite the prediction
on the quality of the grapes, is positive and encouraging, it however seems to
face practical difficulties, specifically, the availability of labor and
operators who will actually be in the vineyards to harvest the bunches. Due to
the restrictions imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic, workers usually coming from
abroad are having some problem to reach or enter Italy.
In fact, it should be noted that, in most cases, during the period of
harvesting, wineries usually hire additional personnel and labor in order to
satisfy the greater workload and which certainly cannot wait. In other words,
when the grapes are ripe they must be harvested and the operation cannot be
delayed, in order to avoid over-ripening, thus compromising the quality of
wine. Just as happens in other areas of agricultural production, workers from
abroad are often hired and, due to the restrictions imposed by preventive and
health measures, many have had difficulty in reaching Italy or have been denied
entry in our country. These are time-based contracts, with a validity strictly
necessary to cover the harvesting period only, often with the help of temporary
agencies in Italy or from other countries. This is an important share of the
economy generated by the wine sector, one of the many and obviously not the
only one.
The other main European wine producing countries – France and Spain – are
facing the same difficulties and, not least, the same doubts and perplexities
about wine market. For these countries, in addition to the measures adopted
because of the Covid-19 pandemic, have also played a significant negative role
the duties imposed by the United States of America and which have produced
significant losses in exports. In this regard, the case of Champagne is
emblematic which, right because of the drastic drop in sales in 2020 – both
due to the Covid-19 pandemic and to the duties imposed by the USA- – they
decided for a drastic reduction of yields and production. This year, in fact,
in Champagne will be produced 230 million bottles only: a number that makes us
think if we compare it to the productions of past years and which were over 300
million.
These times – and we all unfortunately know it – are not simple and raise
epochal and certainly complex problems to solve. Somewhere, however, we have to
start again and harvesting 2020 certainly is an excellent starting point. The
quality, they say, is very high and this will lead to the production of great
wines. A good reason to be optimistic for, although concretely realistic and
without excessive illusions. This is a gigantic effort – however necessary and
fundamental – and it is all too understandable that wineries, already in
evident troubles because of the market trend in 2020, are now forced to make
other and difficult decisions. Starting from the vineyard, then continuing in
the winery, finally to the bottle. Somewhere and in some way we need to start
again. It will be hard – it is already very difficult, and we all know this
very well – but in the end it will be a success. I am optimistic and I am
convinced of it. The storm does not last forever: sooner or later, inevitably,
arrives the rainbow.
Antonello Biancalana
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